Brakes for MT
Brakes for MT
Hi guys,
2005 TL Manual.
I'm looking around for the cheaper ways to change the brakes (first time changing the brakes on my TL).
One dealer is asking around $500 and another dealer is asking $379
Is $379 a reasonable price?
Sure, I get a free car wash...but I think these brake jobs cost too much...
Or is there a way to get it cheaper, like buying non-oem and take it to non-dealer?
If so, which brand is good and where can I buy them?
Thanks for all your advices!
2005 TL Manual.
I'm looking around for the cheaper ways to change the brakes (first time changing the brakes on my TL).
One dealer is asking around $500 and another dealer is asking $379
Is $379 a reasonable price?
Sure, I get a free car wash...but I think these brake jobs cost too much...
Or is there a way to get it cheaper, like buying non-oem and take it to non-dealer?
If so, which brand is good and where can I buy them?
Thanks for all your advices!
Brakes are too critical for safety, so I'd be wary of doing them yourself if you've never done them before. I had my front Brembos done at the dealer, $415 - 10%, so the $379 isn't too bad as these are special dual piston operated calipers. Despite the many choices, I let the dealer do them because they have the lathe that resurfaces the rotors on the car. That way, the new surface is perfectly perpendicular with the wheel hub and spindle. Not crazy about the dust, but the OEM pads still have the best stopping power.
Wow, you have an '05 w/ Brembo's, and this is your FIRST brake job? You must only drive like 10K mi. a year, or you are always on the freeway...anyways, regarding a front brake change on a 3G TL 6MT, anything around $400 is reasonable. So, if you only pay $379 for a front pad replacement/rotor resurfacing, than you are actually getting a good deal!
I replaced my front pads two years ago with Hawk HPS pads and really like them, less dust and they stop great. I am about to replace all rotors, pads and add braided brake lines to my '04 MT with my tax return. :-)
If you work on your car, replacing the brembo front pads is a dream - really easy compared to my other cars (search for a DIY). BUT you have to make sure that your rotors are still smooth, if not you have to resurface them like DMZ said; then I would take them to a shop or dealer.
$379 is not too bad ... but still pricey. Pads = $100 for Hawk HPS $165 for OEM lathe = ?
Good luck! Just don't f'around on the brakes if you never done them before.
Oh yeah, don't forget to give yourself plenty of stopping distance the first few stops and to "bed-in" the brakes.
If you work on your car, replacing the brembo front pads is a dream - really easy compared to my other cars (search for a DIY). BUT you have to make sure that your rotors are still smooth, if not you have to resurface them like DMZ said; then I would take them to a shop or dealer.
$379 is not too bad ... but still pricey. Pads = $100 for Hawk HPS $165 for OEM lathe = ?
Good luck! Just don't f'around on the brakes if you never done them before.
Oh yeah, don't forget to give yourself plenty of stopping distance the first few stops and to "bed-in" the brakes.
Thanks guys for your advises.
I try to reserve my brake as much as possible (downshifting, looking far ahead, etc).
But probably my downshifting technique either eats up more gas or probably not good for my engine/timing belts...
Anyway, it just started to giving me the squick noise from time to time.
I'm not sure if that is a time to actually change a brake?
Or should I drive for a bit more and change it later?
My brother was saying I could drive a about 10K more with my current brake (when he was testing it out, it didn't make a squicking noise and the thickness of the pad looked alright to him).
Thanks!
I try to reserve my brake as much as possible (downshifting, looking far ahead, etc).
But probably my downshifting technique either eats up more gas or probably not good for my engine/timing belts...
Anyway, it just started to giving me the squick noise from time to time.
I'm not sure if that is a time to actually change a brake?
Or should I drive for a bit more and change it later?
My brother was saying I could drive a about 10K more with my current brake (when he was testing it out, it didn't make a squicking noise and the thickness of the pad looked alright to him).
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by gatsbi
Thanks guys for your advises.
I try to reserve my brake as much as possible (downshifting, looking far ahead, etc).
But probably my downshifting technique either eats up more gas or probably not good for my engine/timing belts...
I try to reserve my brake as much as possible (downshifting, looking far ahead, etc).
But probably my downshifting technique either eats up more gas or probably not good for my engine/timing belts...
Originally Posted by gatsbi
Anyway, it just started to giving me the squick noise from time to time.
I'm not sure if that is a time to actually change a brake?
Or should I drive for a bit more and change it later?
My brother was saying I could drive a about 10K more with my current brake (when he was testing it out, it didn't make a squicking noise and the thickness of the pad looked alright to him).
I'm not sure if that is a time to actually change a brake?
Or should I drive for a bit more and change it later?
My brother was saying I could drive a about 10K more with my current brake (when he was testing it out, it didn't make a squicking noise and the thickness of the pad looked alright to him).
the pads are shot when 2mm left on them- the little squeeling when lightly applying the brakes it the wear indicator-
have a real mechanic look at them for you NOW, Brembos are easily damaged if improperly worked on, and a 1st timer with basic questions should turn it over to a pro
have a real mechanic look at them for you NOW, Brembos are easily damaged if improperly worked on, and a 1st timer with basic questions should turn it over to a pro
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