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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Brakes

I was changing my brakes today and when i finished, put the master cylinder cap back and was ready to go for a spin. but my car is stuck.. its like the brakes are seized now..


I didnt tighten the caliper bolts super tight. Im wondering if the rotors i got are thicker and that might be the problem? no idea.. anyways.. i searched came up with like 300 different posts all not brake related.. search option noob i guess..

has anyone ever had this issue before? 3g TL base
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Should post this in problems/fixes section
I'm sure mods will move for you

Good luck
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:06 PM
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Push your pistons back
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:06 PM
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What did you change, rotors, pads, front, rear? Pistons go in easily?
Jack it up and try and turn each wheel to see which might be the problem.
There shouldn't be any reason to have wheel(s) locked up after a pad change, if no problems encountered.
Rear pins have flat spots that need to be vertical when calipers installed or they can bind.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:07 PM
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or crack the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure and then bleed 'em out
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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only front pads and rotors changed, plus cal piston bushing.. the piston went back in with c clamp and old pad as pusher.

the rotors spin when i dont have the wheels on. the drivers side grinds a bit. passenger doesnt move in Drive unless i step on the gas a bit.

as soon as i had the wheels back on it wouldnt move at all.

gonna tackle it again in the morning...


TL brakes 1 Me 0
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai
or crack the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure and then bleed 'em out
gonna try this one more time with the wheels on in neutral, then put it in drive to see if any change has happened.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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Seems like a weird symptom from a standard brake change. when I re read ur first post I noticed u said caliper piston bushing... It's gotta be related to that. Some way or another.

Unless u got thicker rotors somehow but that's probably less likely.

My money is on the caliper bushing
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by iHeartmyHonda
only front pads and rotors changed, plus cal piston bushing.. the piston went back in with c clamp and old pad as pusher.
the rotors spin when i dont have the wheels on. the drivers side grinds a bit. passenger doesnt move in Drive unless i step on the gas a bit.

as soon as i had the wheels back on it wouldnt move at all.

gonna tackle it again in the morning...
TL brakes 1 Me 0
When the wheels were installed did they turn when off the ground?
If so, but when on the ground, car wouldn't move?

Sure emergency brake off?
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
When the wheels were installed did they turn when off the ground?
If so, but when on the ground, car wouldn't move?

Sure emergency brake off?
Ebrake was never on cause i used wheel chocks.

Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
Seems like a weird symptom from a standard brake change. when I re read ur first post I noticed u said caliper piston bushing... It's gotta be related to that. Some way or another.

Unless u got thicker rotors somehow but that's probably less likely.

My money is on the caliper bushing

the wheels did not turn off the ground with wheels installed. only without the wheels on the rotors spun but not freely at all..

the caliper bushing doesnt look to be more compressed than normal.

i took off one of the rotors and put everything back together last night from scratch and even with the original worn out pads and rotors the car still wont move wtf.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Whats the best way to bleed the brakes?
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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bled the brakes and finally got the rotors to spin freely no problem.. the main issue is caliper clearance on my wheels.. the spokes are rubbing against the caliper causing the seizing. +27 ET on all of them and a big fuck you to me.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by iHeartmyHonda
bled the brakes and finally got the rotors to spin freely no problem.. the main issue is caliper clearance on my wheels.. the spokes are rubbing against the caliper causing the seizing. +27 ET on all of them and a big fuck you to me.
So you are using the same wheels before and after the brake work? There was no rubbing between the caliper and the inside of your wheels before but there is now after? Something doesn't seem right here.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by NBP04TL4ME
So you are using the same wheels before and after the brake work? There was no rubbing between the caliper and the inside of your wheels before but there is now after? Something doesn't seem right here.
I put my winter steelies on and there is no rubbing or seizing now. they 16x7.5

my other wheels the ones that rub are 18x9 even with a hub spacer.

just took it for a quick spin in the neighbourhood and everything is normal.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by iHeartmyHonda
I put my winter steelies on and there is no rubbing or seizing now. they 16x7.5

my other wheels the ones that rub are 18x9 even with a hub spacer.

just took it for a quick spin in the neighbourhood and everything is normal.
Ok, changing of the rims was an important missing detail. So did your "other wheels" ever fit properly and not rub?
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:54 AM
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27 ET?

is that the offset u mean?

i think mine are 40-42 iirc 18x8

man i am surprised rims that large dont fit. are they massive deep dish rims lol?
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
27 ET?

is that the offset u mean?

i think mine are 40-42 iirc 18x8

man i am surprised rims that large dont fit. are they massive deep dish rims lol?
yes offset.. you can fit a whole bic lighter in the dish. bbs lm style wheels.

18x9 +27
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by NBP04TL4ME
Ok, changing of the rims was an important missing detail. So did your "other wheels" ever fit properly and not rub?
when i bought the car the brakes were going(16'' steelies when i bought it).. so last night i decided to finally change them since im going on a 400km road trip next weekend with some friends.

when i installed the aftermarket wheels.. i noticed the gap between the caliper and wheels was fairly small and tight like a chinese virgin. but it didnt bother me since there was no rubbing at all at the time.

after installing the rotors and pads the caliper had expanded the width thus deleting whatever gap was left.. like 1.5mm literally.

That being said. i just transfered the 18's to my moms civic and they work fine on her car wtf. but i told her she had to pay me 1000 bux if she wants them to stay on lmao.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by iHeartmyHonda
when i bought the car the brakes were going(16'' steelies when i bought it).. so last night i decided to finally change them since im going on a 400km road trip next weekend with some friends.

when i installed the aftermarket wheels.. i noticed the gap between the caliper and wheels was fairly small and tight like a chinese virgin. but it didnt bother me since there was no rubbing at all at the time.

after installing the rotors and pads the caliper had expanded the width thus deleting whatever gap was left.. like 1.5mm literally.

That being said. i just transfered the 18's to my moms civic and they work fine on her car wtf. but i told her she had to pay me 1000 bux if she wants them to stay on lmao.
Ah, okay. That makes more sense.

Good luck with your Mom
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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ill throw some pictures up soon of the damage the caliper caused my 18" wheels. needless to say ill be calling the guy who told me they would fit. he owns a tire shop.. he ordered them for me and said theyve fit plenty of TL's in that size wheel.. which is bs cause this thread just proves it doesnt. back to stock for now.. might sell the car.. found some rust on the rear 1/4 beginning to surface as well on the inside of the well. .. and now im completely livid about it.
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 04:24 PM
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Wow - pull the rip cord!!
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