Have an 06 TL AT with Greddy exhaust, jpipe, pulley and intake. Tried the brake torque launch and found it was sort of choquing the car, almost like stalling it. Launch seemed slower than just mashing the gas pedal. Anyone have the same experience? Any suggestions?

 

I had an 05 TL as a courtesy car and I noticed that too.

I'm my 03 TL-S I would actually have my tires spin if I did that, but not in the 05.

for the 05 its better to just smash the pedal when you let off the brakes.

Thats just from my experience.

 

It's probably the drive-by-wire throttle (DBW) system that the PCM is programmed to prevent transmission damages, by limiting the power going through the tranny when the brake is applied. 2nd gen TL has no DBW system and so can't prevent tranny damage when someone deliberately brake torques the car.

 

hey Edward,

Just noticed you are from Vancouver as well.

did you go to any of our meets?

 

You can brake torque the car, but keep it at around 1500rpms, then let go of the brake and go, don't overload on the gas or else the car will detect traction loss and will hold off on the gas.

Just keep working on it.

By they way I wouldn't hold the brake and gas simultaneously for a while because you build up a lot of heat with the transmission parts.

 

Will try that instead. I did take off the traction control....i would have thought that at the higher rpm i would have spun the tires but instead it barely moves the car.

 

No, I'm too old for that now. 20 years ago, I would.

 

Yeah, keep traction control off.

 

Slamming the gas to the floor from idle shocks the car more. In return it feels faster to the driver. Some cars are faster from just mashing the gas from idle but the majority are faster from powerbraking. I would take it to the track and compare 60' times to find out.

 

i took my stock as hell 03 TL-S to the track yesterday and found that mashing the gas was better for me. it felt like when i torquebraked it, it wouldn't climb rpms as quickly in 1st gear. resulting in a little slower time for me. 15.3 E/T. not bad considering i just got the car last year and i have no clue when was the last time it had a tune-up.

 

The trick is you shouldn't hold the brake and gas for more than maybe a 1 second or so. It could also be an issue with the ECU seeing that you're holding both the gas and brake down which in turn the ECU retards some power. My G35 does this and essentially cuts power by about 20 to 30%. It also keep me from doing a standing burnout. What I have learned is that if I disconnect the harness to the yaw sensor (part of the stability control system), the stability control system and traction control systems are turned off completely and only the ABS remains active. This allows to me to do burnouts and launch with 100% power which I something I hope to try at the strip in the fall. Maybe the same thing applies to the newer TLs?

 

High powered TL's have a VSA (stability and traction control) disable switch on the dashboard. Rather than messing around with the sensor and wire harness, will the disable switch does the job ?

 

i disabled the vsa on my 2nd gen tl every time i ran.

 

i think even with the switch the (2g) TL still uses the extra VSA plenum to control throttle (see CL side for removing)

brake stand/torque braking, correctly done, will allow your car start higher in the powerband (and closer to where you're making your peak torque/hp)
as well, the correct method is to:
1. stand on the brakes
2. put the car in neutral
3. rev the car so that the brake pedal moves (due to brake boost) and release
4. put it in drive and rev to whatever RPM you want to launch at. usually the stall on these cars is around 2000 i think.

 

This works but the brakes are usually good enough without this technique. Mine doesn't have the power to push through the brakes like my GN does.