Earlier this year I bought a used 2006 TL. A few weeks back I replaced the front rotors and pads. This DIY job saved me HUNDREDS compared to even the cheapest quote. The only complaint were those damn set screws. Using an impact driver I could only remove 1 of 4. I ended up drilling out and extracting the other 3. This would have been a 90 minute job if not for those.

Luckily I had the wisdom to spend $5 on amazon for a spare set before attempting the job. Is this par for the course, or can you usually knock these loose with a manual impact driver?

Thanks

 

you do not need to replace those screws.

they are set on the assembly line, so that the rotor doesnt fall off the hub when on the assembly line.

of course, you are free to replace them if you wish....
but are not needed.

and initially, i believe they get stuck because of rust...if you replace them, they wont be rusted on

 

 

^very cool looking TL in your avatar, *.jpg

 

Thanks - it's the one I bought from Otacon. Considering the go-fast and look-pretty bits he put on there, I got a great deal. I've had it for just over a month and still get a goofy grin every time I get into the throttle even a little bit.

 

Makes sense, as the wheel and lug nuts would snug it into place.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Did the rear brakes today.

I knocked out half of the screws with an impact driver, had to extract the other two.







I realize this isn't a "performance" mod, but anyone upgrading would still need to get the OEM parts off. These PowerStop kits are only $75 shipped with Amazon prime. Hard to argue when you compare what shops charge for the same job.

 

Here's a tip...before screwing the set screws back in, dab a bit of anti-seize on the end of the screw. Work it around the threads. Makes taking them off in the future MUCH easier.

I always get 4 new set screws before doing a brake job. They're only $.63 apiece at the Honda dealer, and after I've knocked the old ones out with the impact driver, who knows what condition they're in.

 

Mine were a bit challenging to get off but not too bad for 94,000 miles. A couple hits with a hammer to loosen them and they came right out. I did not replace them and have had no issues, but they are not necessary.

 

The car was originally from Alaska. Every bolt on the calipers required a breaker bar to loosen up.

The upside is I've got a remote start, heater core and near new set of studded snow tires.

 

Wow wow wow. Just had to do these screws and thanks to this thread I was prepared, but wow was it a pain in the ass. I had to replace the rear left wheel hub. It had too much play in it and they literally said they wont pass me for me inspection for that and a tiny bit of condensation in the headlight.... Rather than pay the outrageous quote of $454 JUST for the freaking hub from Acura which they didnt even have and would have to order I said ill be back. Drove right over to Auto Zone and bought one for $55 plus a 32mm socket.

First screw was rusted in and both were stripped but the first one came out with the impact gun and a number 3 phillips. Second one the impact gun stripped it. Then the "grabbit" broke. Then it rained on me and I had to half ass put everythingaway for 15 minutes while it drizzled. Then I tried to step up to the next size backout bit and it didnt fit and just spun. So I drilled it some and realized I needed to just drill the whole thing thru the middle. Got it right on the money and busted some bits of the head out then backed the rest out with the remaining easy out thing. Got some new screws at ACE (it is so nice to have that right across the block) and tapped the whole back into good shape and used some anti seize. Probably not necessary to put new ones in but that took about 5 minutes compared to the 45 I spent drilling that thing out.

Next is these stupid headlights. Not to mention I noticed the condition of the parking brake pads.

 

Talk about these stubborn screws! I used to drill these out, but a sure way I just found recently is to use a chisel that would dig on the screws, and my 3LB drilling hammer, you have to angle it in a way where you can hammer it with leverage and just be careful not to hit your wheel studs, this works for me overtime, better than the impact screwdriver.

 

I just took a big #3 philips and give it a good tap with a hammer then they twisted right out.

 

One day you'll meet your match with a car repair. LOL

 

Best solution is a $7 impact screwdriver from Amazon. You hit it with a hammer and it turns the screw with a lot of energy. Worked for me super well but then again I live in SoCal haha

 

I splurged and spent $11 on mine

But as I said, that only got out 2 of 4 screws. Now I also own a screw extractor set from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

 

Great tool to have for this. Worked great!!

Doug