Brake Fluid Flush question?
Just bumping this back up in caes anyone's about to do this since there's a ton of info in this thread and the other fluid change thread. I used the method below doing it by myself with no problems. Topped off reservoir, connected hose, placed other end in a Corona bottle with a little fresh fluid, loosened bleeder, pumped 6-7 times and top off again/repeat until fluid was nearly clear.
FL was the worst, looked like Coca Cola but it did seem to clear up the further I got (I went FL,FR, RR, RL). Anyways, no problems at all, did the 45 mph ABS test three times, felt fine. Not sure if I can feel any difference in the pedal but at least I know it has fresh fluid in there.
FL was the worst, looked like Coca Cola but it did seem to clear up the further I got (I went FL,FR, RR, RL). Anyways, no problems at all, did the 45 mph ABS test three times, felt fine. Not sure if I can feel any difference in the pedal but at least I know it has fresh fluid in there.
Just replaced my fluid using the following method and it worked flawlessly. The fluid was $6, a turkey baster was a buck, and the piece of hose was 40 cents. I used Valvoline synthetic Dot 3/4 fluid btw.
Use the turkey baster to suck as much of the oil fluid out of the reservoir as possible.
Top off with new fluid.
Crack open bleeder valve on frost left wheel.
Hook up 1/4" clear hose to bleeder valve.
Drill hole on top of old water bottle (clean with nothing in it) and insert hose so that the hose goes all the way to the bottom.
Put a few inches of the old fluid in the water bottle ensuring that the hose is fully submerged.
Now start pumping the brake pedal with the car off and keep an eye on the reservoir, filling it as needed. Do NOT let the reservoir ever get below the "min" line, if you suck air in the master cylinder you're screwed.
As soon as you see nice new clean fluid coming out, simple re tighten the bleeder valve.
Repeat the bleeding process for the rear right, front right, and rear left wheels.
Top off fluid, take it for a test drive. Give it a couple good hard ABS brake checks to make sure everything is working and you're done.
Worked perfectly for me, no issues, super simple and dirt cheap. I know I'm not the first to use this method just letting everyone know my experience. I did it last night by the way. The old fluid was pitch black.
Use the turkey baster to suck as much of the oil fluid out of the reservoir as possible.
Top off with new fluid.
Crack open bleeder valve on frost left wheel.
Hook up 1/4" clear hose to bleeder valve.
Drill hole on top of old water bottle (clean with nothing in it) and insert hose so that the hose goes all the way to the bottom.
Put a few inches of the old fluid in the water bottle ensuring that the hose is fully submerged.
Now start pumping the brake pedal with the car off and keep an eye on the reservoir, filling it as needed. Do NOT let the reservoir ever get below the "min" line, if you suck air in the master cylinder you're screwed.
As soon as you see nice new clean fluid coming out, simple re tighten the bleeder valve.
Repeat the bleeding process for the rear right, front right, and rear left wheels.
Top off fluid, take it for a test drive. Give it a couple good hard ABS brake checks to make sure everything is working and you're done.
Worked perfectly for me, no issues, super simple and dirt cheap. I know I'm not the first to use this method just letting everyone know my experience. I did it last night by the way. The old fluid was pitch black.
I use a small zip tie on the outside of the tubing end on the bleeder valve, never pops off. Just cut the zip tie off after you are done and remove the tube.
Maybe just a typo error, but you listed FL, RR, FR, RL
The actual sequence should be:
FL....FR.... RR.... RL
Can't see what, if any problems would be encountered by deviating from the sequence, but starting with the closest and following the Acura sequence may be easier and a more efficient method.
The actual sequence should be:
FL....FR.... RR.... RL
Can't see what, if any problems would be encountered by deviating from the sequence, but starting with the closest and following the Acura sequence may be easier and a more efficient method.
I really don't think the order matters and that is more of a myth than anything but do as you please.
Cheers
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
80
Jan 9, 2025 04:40 PM
Mike Bertram
2G TL (1999-2003)
9
Sep 10, 2015 09:27 AM






For arguments sake, not all Honda products use that bleed sequence. 

