Brake Fluid Flush question?
03-14-2015, 01:41 PM
#41
Just bumping this back up in caes anyone's about to do this since there's a ton of info in this thread and the other fluid change thread. I used the method below doing it by myself with no problems. Topped off reservoir, connected hose, placed other end in a Corona bottle with a little fresh fluid, loosened bleeder, pumped 6-7 times and top off again/repeat until fluid was nearly clear.
FL was the worst, looked like Coca Cola but it did seem to clear up the further I got (I went FL,FR, RR, RL). Anyways, no problems at all, did the 45 mph ABS test three times, felt fine. Not sure if I can feel any difference in the pedal but at least I know it has fresh fluid in there.
FL was the worst, looked like Coca Cola but it did seem to clear up the further I got (I went FL,FR, RR, RL). Anyways, no problems at all, did the 45 mph ABS test three times, felt fine. Not sure if I can feel any difference in the pedal but at least I know it has fresh fluid in there.
Just replaced my fluid using the following method and it worked flawlessly. The fluid was $6, a turkey baster was a buck, and the piece of hose was 40 cents. I used Valvoline synthetic Dot 3/4 fluid btw.
Use the turkey baster to suck as much of the oil fluid out of the reservoir as possible.
Top off with new fluid.
Crack open bleeder valve on frost left wheel.
Hook up 1/4" clear hose to bleeder valve.
Drill hole on top of old water bottle (clean with nothing in it) and insert hose so that the hose goes all the way to the bottom.
Put a few inches of the old fluid in the water bottle ensuring that the hose is fully submerged.
Now start pumping the brake pedal with the car off and keep an eye on the reservoir, filling it as needed. Do NOT let the reservoir ever get below the "min" line, if you suck air in the master cylinder you're screwed.
As soon as you see nice new clean fluid coming out, simple re tighten the bleeder valve.
Repeat the bleeding process for the rear right, front right, and rear left wheels.
Top off fluid, take it for a test drive. Give it a couple good hard ABS brake checks to make sure everything is working and you're done.
Worked perfectly for me, no issues, super simple and dirt cheap. I know I'm not the first to use this method just letting everyone know my experience. I did it last night by the way. The old fluid was pitch black.
Use the turkey baster to suck as much of the oil fluid out of the reservoir as possible.
Top off with new fluid.
Crack open bleeder valve on frost left wheel.
Hook up 1/4" clear hose to bleeder valve.
Drill hole on top of old water bottle (clean with nothing in it) and insert hose so that the hose goes all the way to the bottom.
Put a few inches of the old fluid in the water bottle ensuring that the hose is fully submerged.
Now start pumping the brake pedal with the car off and keep an eye on the reservoir, filling it as needed. Do NOT let the reservoir ever get below the "min" line, if you suck air in the master cylinder you're screwed.
As soon as you see nice new clean fluid coming out, simple re tighten the bleeder valve.
Repeat the bleeding process for the rear right, front right, and rear left wheels.
Top off fluid, take it for a test drive. Give it a couple good hard ABS brake checks to make sure everything is working and you're done.
Worked perfectly for me, no issues, super simple and dirt cheap. I know I'm not the first to use this method just letting everyone know my experience. I did it last night by the way. The old fluid was pitch black.
03-15-2015, 12:30 AM
#42
Make sure to buy a hose that's a bit too small for the bleeder valve. A loose-to-medium tightness hose will pop off after the brake fluid lubricates the bleeder/hose, causing a lot of headache.
03-15-2015, 08:01 PM
#44
Burning Brakes
I use a small zip tie on the outside of the tubing end on the bleeder valve, never pops off. Just cut the zip tie off after you are done and remove the tube.
03-16-2015, 07:57 AM
#46
For arguments sake, not all Honda products use that bleed sequence. 
03-16-2015, 10:21 AM
#47
Maybe just a typo error, but you listed FL, RR, FR, RL
The actual sequence should be:
FL....FR.... RR.... RL
Can't see what, if any problems would be encountered by deviating from the sequence, but starting with the closest and following the Acura sequence may be easier and a more efficient method.
The actual sequence should be:
FL....FR.... RR.... RL
Can't see what, if any problems would be encountered by deviating from the sequence, but starting with the closest and following the Acura sequence may be easier and a more efficient method.
I really don't think the order matters and that is more of a myth than anything but do as you please.
Cheers
03-16-2015, 04:41 PM
#48
The order probably doesn't matter IF (and only if) there is no trapped or introduced air into the lines. If there IS air in the lines and you bleed in an improper sequence, you risk leaving some behind.
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