Brake Fluid change
02-21-2010, 10:42 AM
#41
should take about 1 qt or more to fully flush the system
02-21-2010, 10:47 AM
#42
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
02-26-2010, 09:53 AM
#43
Racer
As an alternative to using a helper pump the brake, I set up a mirror in the engine bay and tilt it down to see the master cylinder from the driver's seat. Works great!
02-26-2010, 01:40 PM
#44
Team Owner
In addition to the instructions already provided, I wanted to stress the importance of the DOT 5.1 fluid. It's half as viscous as DOT 3 and 4. This helps the ABS to cycle more effectively. It's one of the few cheap mods that can actually shorten stopping distances. I would place more emphasis on this than finding a fluid with the absolute highest boiling point. Even when installing my Rotoras, I chose to use Motul 5.1 with a 500+ degree boiling point even though I could've gotten their DOT 4 equivilent fluid with a 600 degree boiling point for the same price. You're likely going to fade the stock pads long before you boil a 500+ degree fluid.
Don't worry about using Acura fluid. Acura does not manufacture fluids, the rebrand fluids so you're going to pay a premium for something you could pick up at any autoparts store.
Once you complete the bleeding process, make sure to hit ABS a few times. If the pedal gets softer, rebleed and you should be able to hit ABS all you want after that without it getting softer.
Don't worry about using Acura fluid. Acura does not manufacture fluids, the rebrand fluids so you're going to pay a premium for something you could pick up at any autoparts store.
Once you complete the bleeding process, make sure to hit ABS a few times. If the pedal gets softer, rebleed and you should be able to hit ABS all you want after that without it getting softer.
02-26-2010, 03:57 PM
#45
serious question:
why do you guys go to the ABS activation point? and is this your normal style to wait until almost to a stoplight at speed and stand on the brakes with both feet,,,or do you have slippery tires?
I stop faster when under control of the vehicle~ and with decently sticky tires have a hard time getting ABS going, it just stops! maybe in hard rain and stupidity~
ABS is designed to allow you to stomp the brakes in realization of danger immediatly in front of you--
then turn the wheel to go around an accident-object and return to course
all while under ~fullest~ braking
It pulses a caliper that the wheel speed sensor says is faster than others
How is 5.1 in cold winter temps?- I noticed some members having sticky fluid level sendors in the master cyl when cold out until brakes used a few times,
and I wonder what fluid they are on, freshness brand weight etc
per the shop manual- with brake fluid flush- especially if you had the lines open for any reason
MUST do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS Active- meaning throw water on one edge of the street and drive thru it, one side dry- one wet, so the brake computer must work and ABS will pump- pushing out any air trapped inside
Do immediate back to 45 and stop with ABS again to full stop
If the 2nd time had firmer pedal you had air in the controller and its headed for the caliper- normally LF, but rebleed all the calipers IN this order ONLY
LF RF RR LR driver front is LF and you should be good to go play
why do you guys go to the ABS activation point? and is this your normal style to wait until almost to a stoplight at speed and stand on the brakes with both feet,,,or do you have slippery tires?
I stop faster when under control of the vehicle~ and with decently sticky tires have a hard time getting ABS going, it just stops! maybe in hard rain and stupidity~
ABS is designed to allow you to stomp the brakes in realization of danger immediatly in front of you--
then turn the wheel to go around an accident-object and return to course
all while under ~fullest~ braking
It pulses a caliper that the wheel speed sensor says is faster than others
How is 5.1 in cold winter temps?- I noticed some members having sticky fluid level sendors in the master cyl when cold out until brakes used a few times,
and I wonder what fluid they are on, freshness brand weight etc
per the shop manual- with brake fluid flush- especially if you had the lines open for any reason
MUST do 2 stops from 45mph with ABS Active- meaning throw water on one edge of the street and drive thru it, one side dry- one wet, so the brake computer must work and ABS will pump- pushing out any air trapped inside
Do immediate back to 45 and stop with ABS again to full stop
If the 2nd time had firmer pedal you had air in the controller and its headed for the caliper- normally LF, but rebleed all the calipers IN this order ONLY
LF RF RR LR driver front is LF and you should be good to go play
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 02-26-2010 at 04:00 PM.
02-26-2010, 07:30 PM
#46
Team Owner
serious question:
why do you guys go to the ABS activation point? and is this your normal style to wait until almost to a stoplight at speed and stand on the brakes with both feet,,,or do you have slippery tires?
I stop faster when under control of the vehicle~ and with decently sticky tires have a hard time getting ABS going, it just stops! maybe in hard rain and stupidity~
ABS is designed to allow you to stomp the brakes in realization of danger immediatly in front of you--
then turn the wheel to go around an accident-object and return to course
all while under ~fullest~ braking
It pulses a caliper that the wheel speed sensor says is faster than others
How is 5.1 in cold winter temps?- I noticed some members having sticky fluid level sendors in the master cyl when cold out until brakes used a few times,
and I wonder what fluid they are on, freshness brand weight etc
why do you guys go to the ABS activation point? and is this your normal style to wait until almost to a stoplight at speed and stand on the brakes with both feet,,,or do you have slippery tires?
I stop faster when under control of the vehicle~ and with decently sticky tires have a hard time getting ABS going, it just stops! maybe in hard rain and stupidity~
ABS is designed to allow you to stomp the brakes in realization of danger immediatly in front of you--
then turn the wheel to go around an accident-object and return to course
all while under ~fullest~ braking
It pulses a caliper that the wheel speed sensor says is faster than others
How is 5.1 in cold winter temps?- I noticed some members having sticky fluid level sendors in the master cyl when cold out until brakes used a few times,
and I wonder what fluid they are on, freshness brand weight etc
The 5.1 seems to be ok in the cold here but cold is 32F which might be considered warm in some areas in the winter. I've heard that it helps a lot in cold regions on bicycles with hydraulic disks.
02-27-2010, 06:54 AM
#47
I forgot this is gen3 thread and I drive a gen2 with far less traction control systems
No fly by wire throttle, no over-riding,, out-thinking the driver
All we get is basic braking ABS and traction control of spinning front wheel below 16 mph (25km) via pulsing brake sent to that wheel,, while no braking is being applied by the driver, just too much throttle for the road conditions in rain ice snow.
Got to watch the throttle on the painted lines at stop signs in the rain, and dont stop right before or on top of the big ones crossing your path- super slippery when wet~
That will get the traction control light a blinkin when you take off with a lead foot!!
No fly by wire throttle, no over-riding,, out-thinking the driver
All we get is basic braking ABS and traction control of spinning front wheel below 16 mph (25km) via pulsing brake sent to that wheel,, while no braking is being applied by the driver, just too much throttle for the road conditions in rain ice snow.
Got to watch the throttle on the painted lines at stop signs in the rain, and dont stop right before or on top of the big ones crossing your path- super slippery when wet~
That will get the traction control light a blinkin when you take off with a lead foot!!
04-08-2010, 04:12 PM
#48
Instructor
Gain access to the caliper by safely jacking up the car. Get a piece of clear 1/8" dia Tygon tubing about 16" long from a local hardware store. Push the tubing over the bleed fitting on the caliper. Fill a clean jar or container with about 6 - 8 oz of brake fluid- your choice of DOT4 or better. Place the open end of the tubing into the container of clean fluid. Immerse it in the fluid throughout tis process.
Do you put brake fluid in the bottom of the jar to prevent air from being sucked in through the tube? I was wondering the purpose of this step. If thats the case, couldn't you use old brake fluid or even water?
Thx
04-12-2010, 11:38 AM
#49
Instructor
Never mind the previous question. I did my brake fluid last night for the first time since I have owned the car w/ 102k miles (I bought the car w/ 78k). The fluid was black.
I used a turkey baster and got everything out and filled my reservoir with 'Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3&4' fluid. I got my girlfriend to pump and hold the break pedal so I could loosen the bleeder. I repeated 3 or 4 times per wheel and then refilled the reservoir. I never got CLEAR fluid, it was still a mix of old and new (a yellowish tint). For those who are reading how to DIY, you pump and hold the break pedal to build up preasure in the break lines so when you loosen the bleeder, fluid comes out. Repeating the pumping of the breaks build up more pressure so more fluid comes out. Very simple. The whole process took 20 minutes and I didn't jack my car up.
I did my 2 ABS stops on a dirt road. I had a dirt road close by and it was VERY easy to get the ABS working. Both stops responded the same although it did seem a little 'chunky'.
Thanks for the good instructions 01tl04tl, ihatecars, and others.
I used a turkey baster and got everything out and filled my reservoir with 'Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3&4' fluid. I got my girlfriend to pump and hold the break pedal so I could loosen the bleeder. I repeated 3 or 4 times per wheel and then refilled the reservoir. I never got CLEAR fluid, it was still a mix of old and new (a yellowish tint). For those who are reading how to DIY, you pump and hold the break pedal to build up preasure in the break lines so when you loosen the bleeder, fluid comes out. Repeating the pumping of the breaks build up more pressure so more fluid comes out. Very simple. The whole process took 20 minutes and I didn't jack my car up.
I did my 2 ABS stops on a dirt road. I had a dirt road close by and it was VERY easy to get the ABS working. Both stops responded the same although it did seem a little 'chunky'.
Thanks for the good instructions 01tl04tl, ihatecars, and others.
Last edited by hleapha; 04-12-2010 at 11:43 AM.
04-12-2010, 12:01 PM
#50
go back and finish the job or its worthless- still has contaminent by rust particles and fresh moisture waiting to become rust particles and eat the caliper piston oring
flush each caliper until CLEAR fluid, then a few more pump and bleeds to get it all out of the caliper
There is a lot of fluid in the caliper
Tip- put small block of 2x4 wood under brake pedal so it only goes 3/4 travel to floor- its normal operating range
go to the floor and damage the oring on the master cyl rod!!
helper should be holding pressure on pedal like stopped at a light on a slight hill- enough to push the pedal down with some force (moves fluid better) when bleeder is opened
With block of wood there- helper calls out Holding! and you open- let out fluid-they call out Down as pedal hits wood, you close bleeder- you call out- OK! and they pump 4-5 pumps and hold- Holding- open close OK..repeat until all clean new fluid is coming out the line
reminder for all:
bleed order on the TL is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR- its due to abs plumbing
only use new clean fluid from a foil sealed container, should take about 1 qt, or some use even more to do it really right
In the catch bottle, use new fluid for safety
On res- dont suck all the old fluid out- dont uncover the line openings or you get air in the system
abs test stops from 45mph: if 2nd time had firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller, rebleed entire system and it will have air in a caliper
Normally only an issue when lines have been removed from caliper but never hurts to test the system
Do NOT do ABS test with brand new pads and or rotors as its will screw them up!
flush each caliper until CLEAR fluid, then a few more pump and bleeds to get it all out of the caliper
There is a lot of fluid in the caliper
Tip- put small block of 2x4 wood under brake pedal so it only goes 3/4 travel to floor- its normal operating range
go to the floor and damage the oring on the master cyl rod!!
helper should be holding pressure on pedal like stopped at a light on a slight hill- enough to push the pedal down with some force (moves fluid better) when bleeder is opened
With block of wood there- helper calls out Holding! and you open- let out fluid-they call out Down as pedal hits wood, you close bleeder- you call out- OK! and they pump 4-5 pumps and hold- Holding- open close OK..repeat until all clean new fluid is coming out the line
reminder for all:
bleed order on the TL is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR- its due to abs plumbing
only use new clean fluid from a foil sealed container, should take about 1 qt, or some use even more to do it really right
In the catch bottle, use new fluid for safety
On res- dont suck all the old fluid out- dont uncover the line openings or you get air in the system
abs test stops from 45mph: if 2nd time had firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller, rebleed entire system and it will have air in a caliper
Normally only an issue when lines have been removed from caliper but never hurts to test the system
Do NOT do ABS test with brand new pads and or rotors as its will screw them up!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 04-12-2010 at 12:05 PM.
05-08-2010, 05:58 PM
#52
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ same order.
05-08-2010, 08:56 PM
#53
you can verify the order on many diy sites like kragen, diy help section,,,bolt torques etc all listed with instructions for most diy's
NOTE - put a small block of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal arm so helper cant push pedal past 3/4 to floor- its normal travel range- VERY IMPORTANT FOR NOOB HELPERS
Many are damaging the master cyl rod seal by letting it go to far past normal travel--as in all the way to the floor
result is new master required soon
When you open the bleeder they should be pushing the pedal as if stopped on a hill, which allows pedal to sink really fast- right to the floor!~ and shoves old fluid out for you
remember to remove the block before test drive!!!!
NOTE - put a small block of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal arm so helper cant push pedal past 3/4 to floor- its normal travel range- VERY IMPORTANT FOR NOOB HELPERS
Many are damaging the master cyl rod seal by letting it go to far past normal travel--as in all the way to the floor
result is new master required soon
When you open the bleeder they should be pushing the pedal as if stopped on a hill, which allows pedal to sink really fast- right to the floor!~ and shoves old fluid out for you
remember to remove the block before test drive!!!!
05-08-2010, 09:07 PM
#54
Team Owner
go back and finish the job or its worthless- still has contaminent by rust particles and fresh moisture waiting to become rust particles and eat the caliper piston oring
flush each caliper until CLEAR fluid, then a few more pump and bleeds to get it all out of the caliper
There is a lot of fluid in the caliper
Tip- put small block of 2x4 wood under brake pedal so it only goes 3/4 travel to floor- its normal operating range
go to the floor and damage the oring on the master cyl rod!!
helper should be holding pressure on pedal like stopped at a light on a slight hill- enough to push the pedal down with some force (moves fluid better) when bleeder is opened
With block of wood there- helper calls out Holding! and you open- let out fluid-they call out Down as pedal hits wood, you close bleeder- you call out- OK! and they pump 4-5 pumps and hold- Holding- open close OK..repeat until all clean new fluid is coming out the line
reminder for all:
bleed order on the TL is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR- its due to abs plumbing
only use new clean fluid from a foil sealed container, should take about 1 qt, or some use even more to do it really right
In the catch bottle, use new fluid for safety
On res- dont suck all the old fluid out- dont uncover the line openings or you get air in the system
abs test stops from 45mph: if 2nd time had firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller, rebleed entire system and it will have air in a caliper
Normally only an issue when lines have been removed from caliper but never hurts to test the system
Do NOT do ABS test with brand new pads and or rotors as its will screw them up!
flush each caliper until CLEAR fluid, then a few more pump and bleeds to get it all out of the caliper
There is a lot of fluid in the caliper
Tip- put small block of 2x4 wood under brake pedal so it only goes 3/4 travel to floor- its normal operating range
go to the floor and damage the oring on the master cyl rod!!
helper should be holding pressure on pedal like stopped at a light on a slight hill- enough to push the pedal down with some force (moves fluid better) when bleeder is opened
With block of wood there- helper calls out Holding! and you open- let out fluid-they call out Down as pedal hits wood, you close bleeder- you call out- OK! and they pump 4-5 pumps and hold- Holding- open close OK..repeat until all clean new fluid is coming out the line
reminder for all:
bleed order on the TL is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR- its due to abs plumbing
only use new clean fluid from a foil sealed container, should take about 1 qt, or some use even more to do it really right
In the catch bottle, use new fluid for safety
On res- dont suck all the old fluid out- dont uncover the line openings or you get air in the system
abs test stops from 45mph: if 2nd time had firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller, rebleed entire system and it will have air in a caliper
Normally only an issue when lines have been removed from caliper but never hurts to test the system
Do NOT do ABS test with brand new pads and or rotors as its will screw them up!
To the OP, brake fluid will usually go from dark and old to new and clear within only two pushes on the pedal. I definately agree with this post, go back and finish the job. On the bright side, you can go ahead and hit ABS a few times and if there was air in there you haven't done all of this for nothing.
07-08-2010, 02:46 PM
#56
While this has been bumped...I wanted to chime in and say we recommend a fluid change every 15k or 1 year to maintain optimum braking, and we only recommend the stock fluid until people get into ET500-800 pads (aggressive partial track use).
Also, there is a super simple method for bleeding that one person can do by them self with only the tube and a bottle. The pumping/holding/helper method is really unnecessary.
Also, there is a super simple method for bleeding that one person can do by them self with only the tube and a bottle. The pumping/holding/helper method is really unnecessary.
07-08-2010, 02:51 PM
#57
07-11-2010, 02:27 PM
#58
Team Owner
You can use a cheap ($7) bleeder picked up at the autoparts store. It consist of a tube, usually a 3 way fitting so you can bleed both sides of a 4 piston caliper at once, and a bottle. You basically pump the pedal slowly, keep an eye on the reservior level and bottle level, add fluid as necessary and once it come out clear close the bleeders. Very quick and very simple. I did this the last time and it takes about as much time to bleed the brakes as it does to remove the tire.
As for the interval and fluid, it's never a bad idea to upgrade the fluid. The stock pads might fade first, they might not, but you've just eliminated one failure point.
I base brake fluid changes on time, not miles. It really comes down to how much water it absorbs which is really more time based, not mileage.
As for the interval and fluid, it's never a bad idea to upgrade the fluid. The stock pads might fade first, they might not, but you've just eliminated one failure point.
I base brake fluid changes on time, not miles. It really comes down to how much water it absorbs which is really more time based, not mileage.
07-11-2010, 03:37 PM
#59
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
Age: 56
Posts: 40
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I have found the Motive Power Bleeder to be an effective tool for one-person flushes. I'm sure there are cheaper tools, but for me this is the way to go. http://www.motiveproducts.com/
07-12-2010, 07:45 PM
#60
I have found the Motive Power Bleeder to be an effective tool for one-person flushes. I'm sure there are cheaper tools, but for me this is the way to go. http://www.motiveproducts.com/
07-12-2010, 08:09 PM
#61
You can use a cheap ($7) bleeder picked up at the autoparts store. It consist of a tube, usually a 3 way fitting so you can bleed both sides of a 4 piston caliper at once, and a bottle. You basically pump the pedal slowly, keep an eye on the reservior level and bottle level, add fluid as necessary and once it come out clear close the bleeders. Very quick and very simple. I did this the last time and it takes about as much time to bleed the brakes as it does to remove the tire.
As for the interval and fluid, it's never a bad idea to upgrade the fluid. The stock pads might fade first, they might not, but you've just eliminated one failure point.
I base brake fluid changes on time, not miles. It really comes down to how much water it absorbs which is really more time based, not mileage.
As for the interval and fluid, it's never a bad idea to upgrade the fluid. The stock pads might fade first, they might not, but you've just eliminated one failure point.
I base brake fluid changes on time, not miles. It really comes down to how much water it absorbs which is really more time based, not mileage.
07-13-2010, 05:19 AM
#62
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
Age: 56
Posts: 40
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I bought one of the kits that has multiple reservior adapters. (Specifically, I got the Pro Bleeder Kit 0250.) It comes with three adapters. I use adapter 1100 for my Miata and the generic adapter (1101) for my other cars. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably just buy the bleeder with the generic adapter and forego the multi-adapter kit. I have no use for the GM adapter (1105), and the generic adapter works fine on my cars, leaving the 1100 adapter almost unnecessary. Plus, you can always buy additional adapters down the road if you want. (Disclaimer: I have not done the TL yet, but I expect the generic adapter will work fine per the Application Guide on the Motive web site.)
Last edited by blueridger; 07-13-2010 at 05:24 AM.
07-13-2010, 05:26 PM
#63
I bought one of the kits that has multiple reservior adapters. (Specifically, I got the Pro Bleeder Kit 0250.) It comes with three adapters. I use adapter 1100 for my Miata and the generic adapter (1101) for my other cars. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably just buy the bleeder with the generic adapter and forego the multi-adapter kit. I have no use for the GM adapter (1105), and the generic adapter works fine on my cars, leaving the 1100 adapter almost unnecessary. Plus, you can always buy additional adapters down the road if you want. (Disclaimer: I have not done the TL yet, but I expect the generic adapter will work fine per the Application Guide on the Motive web site.)
07-13-2010, 05:54 PM
#64
All you need is a tube and a collection bottle (I used an old water bottle).
Step 1: Put tube on bleeder with hose running into bottom of the bottle on the ground.
Step 2: Open bleeder, pump brakes until reservoir is empty (but before it sucks air into the lines).
Step 3: Ensure that enough fluid has run into the bottle to submerge the tube outlet.
Step 4: (bleeder valve is still open here...) Clean out the reservoir a bit with a clean, lint-free diaper or cloth. Fill with new fluid.
Step 5: Pump the pedal (yes, keep bleeder valve open the entire time) 5-6 times to run the old fluid out of the lines. After so many pumps you will purge the lines of the old fluid and replace it with new.
Step 6: Close the bleeder, remove the hose, and move to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir.
Repeat Steps 3-6 for all 4 corners.
You don't need a partner or any fancy gadgets or gimmicks. The only things you need to be concerned about is that you don't suck air into the master cylinder by running the reservoir empty, and that the hose stays submerged in the fluid in your collection container. By doing this, any air or dirty fluids pushed out the bleeder will not get sucked back in.
Simple principle of creating an external reservoir for the brake line.
Step 1: Put tube on bleeder with hose running into bottom of the bottle on the ground.
Step 2: Open bleeder, pump brakes until reservoir is empty (but before it sucks air into the lines).
Step 3: Ensure that enough fluid has run into the bottle to submerge the tube outlet.
Step 4: (bleeder valve is still open here...) Clean out the reservoir a bit with a clean, lint-free diaper or cloth. Fill with new fluid.
Step 5: Pump the pedal (yes, keep bleeder valve open the entire time) 5-6 times to run the old fluid out of the lines. After so many pumps you will purge the lines of the old fluid and replace it with new.
Step 6: Close the bleeder, remove the hose, and move to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir.
Repeat Steps 3-6 for all 4 corners.
You don't need a partner or any fancy gadgets or gimmicks. The only things you need to be concerned about is that you don't suck air into the master cylinder by running the reservoir empty, and that the hose stays submerged in the fluid in your collection container. By doing this, any air or dirty fluids pushed out the bleeder will not get sucked back in.
Simple principle of creating an external reservoir for the brake line.
12-16-2010, 06:31 PM
#65
All you need is a tube and a collection bottle (I used an old water bottle).
Step 1: Put tube on bleeder with hose running into bottom of the bottle on the ground.
Step 2: Open bleeder, pump brakes until reservoir is empty (but before it sucks air into the lines).
Step 3: Ensure that enough fluid has run into the bottle to submerge the tube outlet.
Step 4: (bleeder valve is still open here...) Clean out the reservoir a bit with a clean, lint-free diaper or cloth. Fill with new fluid.
Step 5: Pump the pedal (yes, keep bleeder valve open the entire time) 5-6 times to run the old fluid out of the lines. After so many pumps you will purge the lines of the old fluid and replace it with new.
Step 6: Close the bleeder, remove the hose, and move to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir.
Repeat Steps 3-6 for all 4 corners.
You don't need a partner or any fancy gadgets or gimmicks. The only things you need to be concerned about is that you don't suck air into the master cylinder by running the reservoir empty, and that the hose stays submerged in the fluid in your collection container. By doing this, any air or dirty fluids pushed out the bleeder will not get sucked back in.
Simple principle of creating an external reservoir for the brake line.
Step 1: Put tube on bleeder with hose running into bottom of the bottle on the ground.
Step 2: Open bleeder, pump brakes until reservoir is empty (but before it sucks air into the lines).
Step 3: Ensure that enough fluid has run into the bottle to submerge the tube outlet.
Step 4: (bleeder valve is still open here...) Clean out the reservoir a bit with a clean, lint-free diaper or cloth. Fill with new fluid.
Step 5: Pump the pedal (yes, keep bleeder valve open the entire time) 5-6 times to run the old fluid out of the lines. After so many pumps you will purge the lines of the old fluid and replace it with new.
Step 6: Close the bleeder, remove the hose, and move to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir.
Repeat Steps 3-6 for all 4 corners.
You don't need a partner or any fancy gadgets or gimmicks. The only things you need to be concerned about is that you don't suck air into the master cylinder by running the reservoir empty, and that the hose stays submerged in the fluid in your collection container. By doing this, any air or dirty fluids pushed out the bleeder will not get sucked back in.
Simple principle of creating an external reservoir for the brake line.
12-16-2010, 07:51 PM
#66
Drifting
I am pretty well regarded as the gen 2 brake guru and if you will look in the brake DIY in the DIY section you will find I am stating from the book on bleed order
the TL with its abs has a special order that MUST be followed
As for most of the directions given above- I would ignore them and go read stuff that ziners including myself have written
The best tool is a turkey baster- suck out most but not all fluid- have a small water bottle next to the master to transfer old fluid too- put clean shop towel/rages around/under the master as you will get a few drips and does eat paint as noted above
do NOT uncover the holes on bottem of master cyl- refill with new fluid- cap tightly
4 pumps and open- yadayada
NOTE: place a small 2x4 or similar under brake pedal so as to limit its travel to 3/4 of the way to the floor- if pushed to the floor- the seals inside the master are pushed into unused territory and can be damaged!!!-
you will have clean fluid after 4-5 sets of pumps and open-release-then do few more times to be safe-
refill the master and move to the next wheel
I have done this numerous times on my car and other TL-they are all the same exact procedure
Do the brake fluid flush BEFORE the brake work- otherwise when you compress the pistons you backwash crud up the system - better to change it first and not cause problems
the TL with its abs has a special order that MUST be followed
As for most of the directions given above- I would ignore them and go read stuff that ziners including myself have written
The best tool is a turkey baster- suck out most but not all fluid- have a small water bottle next to the master to transfer old fluid too- put clean shop towel/rages around/under the master as you will get a few drips and does eat paint as noted above
do NOT uncover the holes on bottem of master cyl- refill with new fluid- cap tightly
4 pumps and open- yadayada
NOTE: place a small 2x4 or similar under brake pedal so as to limit its travel to 3/4 of the way to the floor- if pushed to the floor- the seals inside the master are pushed into unused territory and can be damaged!!!-
you will have clean fluid after 4-5 sets of pumps and open-release-then do few more times to be safe-
refill the master and move to the next wheel
I have done this numerous times on my car and other TL-they are all the same exact procedure
Do the brake fluid flush BEFORE the brake work- otherwise when you compress the pistons you backwash crud up the system - better to change it first and not cause problems
12-16-2010, 08:04 PM
#67
Team Owner
I would be careful of wiping the reservoir out with a towel, even a lint free one. The system is very sensitive to dirt and moisture. It's doubtful any 3gs are old enough to have anything build up on the walls of the reservoir.
12-17-2010, 11:14 AM
#68
Instructor
Not related to our TL's, but I wiped out the "haze" on my Turbo Regal Powermaster reservoir with a towel. Do you think this could become an issue? I did it about 4000 miles ago
12-17-2010, 01:02 PM
#69
Cruisin'
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Age: 51
Posts: 17
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Does anybody here use Speed Bleeders (www.speedbleeder.com)? I don't touch the brakes of a car without these installed. They make the two person bleeding job seem as outdated as cranking a Model T by hand. The company recently introduced stainless steel bleeders as well which are even better.
12-17-2010, 01:33 PM
#70
Team Owner
In reality it will probably never hurt a thing but I personally wouldn't do it.
12-17-2010, 02:08 PM
#71
Three Wheelin'
I tool a large syringe and put a clear hose on the end of it that fits very tightly on the bleeder then i open the valve and pull back on the syringe sucking the fluid through the system, pulls all tle air out of the system and you can see when your getting clean fluid. It works awesome and cost me like 15.00 in "parts"
12-18-2010, 07:40 PM
#73
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
I flushed mine today, it was surprisingly decent looking fluid. I expected it to be black with the way the old owners took care of this car. Either way its clean now and the pedal is a lot firmer. Easy job thanks for the info guys
12-18-2010, 07:51 PM
#74
Team Owner
12-18-2010, 08:49 PM
#77
Team Owner
Are you seeing the same nasty fluid in the clutch reservoir too?
12-20-2010, 08:52 AM
#79
After reading through this thread, I elected to bleed my brakes yesterday.
I purchased a one-man bleed kit from Autozone which worked out relatively well. I do recommend it.
With regards to the bleeding process, it all worked out well in the sense the fluid was changed and I didn't introduce air into the system. The only thing I'm not happy about is my right-rear bleed nut would not budge. In effect, I was able to only bleed 3 brakes and not the right-rear. I'll give it another go during the week or weekend. Not exactly looking forward to it...
Overall, the pedal feels great. I had taken time on Friday and installed Duralast Gold CMAX on the rear. I certainly had a productive weekend with the TL.
I purchased a one-man bleed kit from Autozone which worked out relatively well. I do recommend it.
With regards to the bleeding process, it all worked out well in the sense the fluid was changed and I didn't introduce air into the system. The only thing I'm not happy about is my right-rear bleed nut would not budge. In effect, I was able to only bleed 3 brakes and not the right-rear. I'll give it another go during the week or weekend. Not exactly looking forward to it...
Overall, the pedal feels great. I had taken time on Friday and installed Duralast Gold CMAX on the rear. I certainly had a productive weekend with the TL.
01-17-2011, 10:07 AM
#80
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 22
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I bled my brakes after installing a new EBC rotor and pad setup. It dawned on me that I didn't have my tubing anymore since my last move. If you find yourself where I was, a Chik-Fil-A straw fits perfectly over the bleeder valve.