Tomorrow is going to be my first experience for installing some new brake pads to my 04 AT TL w/ 52K .

Do I have to bleed the brake system when I am getting new brake pads on? Also, do i need any special tools during the process?

Thanks a bunch!

 

there are many threads on the entire flushing of brake fluid and the pad install procedure
try the Garage section or search feature
No special tools for the brake job
note the unusual order LF RF RR LR
You should flush the brake fluid every year- do it before the brake work so all the old crud is removed from the system and calipers

get a small packet of caliper grease to use on critical points of movement

use a turkey baster, $2 at grocery stores, to remove most but not all of the brake fluid from master cyl res
get a 10mm brake wrench or box end wrench
Use DOT4 fluid regular or synthetic, it doesnt matter if you are just street driving
get 2 quarts

 

I posted couple of pics of how to change brake fluid in another thread.
Check it out.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brake-fluid-change-696162/

 

You dont have to bleed your brakes if your installing pad only...BUT the main thing you have to remember is to pump the brake pedal first before taking off.

 

^thank you guys.

I just read up other threads...the procedures seems pretty easy.

 

Its really easy dude, you'll have no problem doing it. I used 1/4in tubing, but it was a bish to get on though so Im not sure thats the correct size.

 

flushing the brake fluid BEFORE any brake job is smart- it removes all the crud that does form in the fluid and can damage the caliper piston seals or abs controller

wiki hygroscopic for details

acura says start flushing the fluid at year 3 of cars life, then every year afterwards forever is smart--remember the book gives normal service with its low maitenance, but many drive in the severe service part of the book- check it out

New brake fluid- Its cheap insurance and it keeps a solid feeling pedal.
absorbed moisture gives pedal a spongy feel

 

Thanks Bro, yes i will flush first then install the pads.

you are the brake master...I think you should write a book on it...lol

 

I read somewhere that its 3/16 ID clear plastic hose.

And the Turkey Baster is hard to find....i went to several grocery store but couldn't find it.

 

really? you may have to ask- they hide them on the bottem shelf in the area with turkey pans and bags or with the small measuring devices or kitchen hand tools

The reason for it is to remove MOST but not all (which would uncover the line holes and introduce air) from master cyl res-
pour new fluid slowly in and it sits on top of old fluid
reduces the amount of times you have to do the pump hold method to about 5 sets per wheel
Otherwise you have to move old fluid out of the res by repeated opening of the nipple until new clean fluid comes out- then do it a few more times because the caliper holds the bad crud at the bottem and the bleeder is at the top of the caliper body
Make sure to never let the res run down to the line openngs or start all over~

Go back to the grocery store and ask a stock clerk or checker to walk you to the turkey basters- there are the cheap ones for a buck and they are garbage or the good ones for $2-2.50
I keep one for brake fluid and one for coolant,,helps for working on the bike too

 

Is it me or shims from oem pads doesn't fit ET300. Also, for the rear you have to modify to get shims fit properly.

How did you guys get 'em on? Is it important that the shims fit 'perfectly' with the pads?

 

you dont need to use the shims on ET300s
Just a bit of caliper grease on the contact points to the caliper piston and fingers,
and the very important area- the slider tabs at the end of the pads
clean the metal piece the slider tabs fit into and regrease

Check the rear pads- if the inner pad with the squeeler tab has a middle raised dot/peg on the back side --besides the one at each end (one holds the squeeler tab on)-
you must grind that 3rd-middle tab off
This was discovered last year and should be ground off at the factory but you never know what happens...so no middle raised tab allowed
Hawk pads have the same issue

The tech guy at RB told me `if they wanted you to use shims they would have included them`

 

You might also want to consider installing some Speedbleeders as they really help bleeding if you're doing it yourself...

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Work great on my Legend.

 

Cool...

Instead of using these, couldn't you just attach a hose to the regular bleeder, and put the other end in a bottle of brake fluid, which is like a quarter full or whatever, so that when you press and release the brakes, no air is sucked back into the hose, allowing you to bleed the brakes yourself?

 

you need a pressure or suction to make the fluid flow thru the lines

Speed bleeders are great for 1 person doing motorcyle brakes

 

thanks, this explains a lot...i am going to remove them tomorrow because they starting to make noise like something is lose.

And as for the rear i had to grind the middle tabs off...as i didn't think any other way would work.

I will give you an update when i make the adjustments...

thank you very much!

 

please call RB and remind them of the rear pads and the 3rd middle tab
Thats supposed to have been resolved long ago and not being out sent with them

those fit RL calipers that have a notched piston, it grabs that for park brake
Does not apply to TL though and is wrong

 

Just to confirm: 'Do NOT' put shims for the Front and Rear right?

Thanks

 

no need for them on the RB pads- stock shims dont fit the new pads,,for a reason

If new pads or rotors make sure to bed them in properly, make a differance in lifespan and braking ability

 

Ok so i took off all the shims and brakes seems to have very good stopping power.

However, FR bake squeak real loud while braking from very light to medium pressure but not when braking hard. I did the bed-in from MrHeeltoe website but that didn't help.

Should i try WD40? or Do another Bed-in?

Thanks

 

NO on the WD- KEEP THAT FAR FAR AWAY FROM THE BRAKES

if you read heeltoes method again it says may need to repeat a few times
First the pads have to green- cook out excess resins, then start mating with the rotor, all the micro ridges and valleys have to grind into each other- you will know when it happens as the rotor changes colors and gets some small score marks from the pad metals
make a good transfer layer of pad to rotor~~
note heeltoe says 80mph- 70 is fine, dont get a ticket!

Cooling the brakes off slowly by cruising on freeway 15 minutes is important to how well they work and last--thats for after the hot bedding

 

recheck the install- did you use caliper grease on the slider tabs and the pad backs where they contact?

 

so got a question... in our manual it says go LF, RF, RR, LR but every other site, manual, historical reference and ancient egyptian hieroglyphics say to go RR, LR, RF, LF

why does the 3g TL do it different? does it matter? anyone do it the non 3g TL way?

 

Most rwd cars have a bleed pattern as you said. If the manual says that I would follow it. Is it a factory service manual that states it? The usual rule is furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way to the closest. Certain cars are diff. Some FWD have the criss cross pattern that you need to follow but it all depends.

 

Its because of the ABS plumbing - the TL is not like most cars you have owned~

the correct order for all gens TL is LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR

 

it does matter!!! do it right or expect problems