I didn't know what section to place this in. I am going to use MOBILE 1 for my 2006 TL non type s. I am wondering what is the eact type of mobile 1 synthetic to use, as they make like a thousand different kinds?

I was going to use royal purple but aparently it sucks? Even though I had it in my 2000 honda accord exv6 and did amazing stuff!

 

I've used 5w-30 since 20k, now has 71k...Mobil 1 is great oil.
My mom's 99 Accord has 310k, with 5w-30 mobil 1 since 5k..no problems at all..my

 

Might as well run a true synthetic like Redline if you're going to pay the price. Most of the Mobil One offerings are great but they're advertised as a "full synthetic" when in fact they should be advertised as a synthetic blend or mix.

I believe the high mileage versions use the better basestocks.

 

isn't that illegal to false advertise that its "full synthetic" when it is not.....

 

I'll be switching to synthetic from my next oil change. My car just hit 04 60kish and i think its time to change the fluids etc. I don't mind paying the price for redline but whats the best to get. I'm in NYC so our summers are 90F+ but its followed by a cool 50-70 falls and freezing cold winters lol.

 

You would think. This is what makes me mad..... Exxon Mobil sued Castrol (I think it was Castrol) for advertising their groupIII oil (a highly refined dino oil) was full synthetic. Mobil lost the lawuit and in turn lowered the quality of their synthetic line from a group IV to a III and kept the price the same.

Basically they did the same thing they sued the other guys for.

By definition, a group III is a full synthetic even though it comes out of the ground. It's a great oil and the gap between III and IV is closing. That's part of the reason I want the group V (Redline) is there is still a significant performance advantage so the price is more justifiable.

 

Ok but what kind of mobile 1 is the best for our tl...they have high mileage, super duper etc...lol...which one is the best...I still might do RP...

 

where can you buy Redline other than online?

 

Their website has a list of dealers. I checked it out for the first time and there's quite a few of them, most of them being performance shops and motorcycle shops.

 

Thanks IHC you are always great help. I will check it out cuz if i am going to spend the cash i want full synthetic.

 

The Mobil 1 Extended is now their fully synthetic oil. I buy the 5w30 5 quart containers at WalMart for $26.

 

Mobil 1 5W-20 extended performance (generally ~ $6.50/qt). A little expensive but it's not sold in the 5 qt jugs at Wal Mart. I get mine from Advance Auto. Maybe the 5W-30 next time...

 

The best is Mobile One 5W-20 as recommended in the manual. No reason to use anything else other than the recommended 5W-20.

James

 

^ ercdoc48 got it.. extended performance has more PAO's than standard M1.. the PAO carbon chain is long giving it superior lubrication and anti-oxidation properties, so the more the better - not necessarily, but you could view it as being a "truer" synthetic / group IV oil. Typically they sell for the same price so might as well get M1-EP over standard M1.. look for the retailers who sell redline in your area like IHC suggested to get a price comparison.

 

essentially the old `good` mobil1 formula is now called Extended- get that for the best protection for the engine

5-20 vs 5-30 is a bs thing based on CAFE standards to get very slight mileage improvement for testing purposes- not real world road use-
if the book allows 5-30 for warmer temp areas --use it!
the metal bits inside the engine smash togther at very high speed- a little more protection goes a long way

 

I personally use Mobile 1 in my vehicles however regardless of what people say it doesnt matter what brand oil you use as long as you do the oil change when required you or your engine wont know the difference. People who spend so much more on Royal Purple or whatever it is are honestly wasting time and money.
You can drive 200,000 miles using nothing but Quaker State oil and Fram oil filters and if done on schedule your engine will run like the day it came off the showroom floor. I know from experience.

 

And I know from experience that the harder you push the car, the more exterme the temps, and the more power you make, the more you need a good oil. I won't even get into the trouble I had with a cheap oil in the GN.

 

another vote for 5w-30 extended , avail at walmart for about $27 a jug.

I would buy several jugs, because seems like walmart has restocking issues on mobil 1 extended 5w-30

 

I usually use M-1 w/ honda filter with no issues. I have RP w/M-1 filter for 1200 miles now. No sure about the filter, but so far not impressed with RP. IMO not worth the extra money.

 

Well high horsepower cars and race cars are another story. I thought the subject was about the little V6's in the TL. Thats what I was referring to anyway.

 

You make a blanket statement saying that people running premium oil are wasting their money. Not the case. What does the little V6 have to do with anything? Power density is more important than absolute size. What do you think is harder on oil, an older late 80s 350 V8 making 258hp or the TL's 3.2 V6 making 258hp?

Where I live the body will outlive the engine. It's normal to go through at least one engine rebuild. I plan on keeping the TL until the wheels fall off so I run a premium oil. I hate that I have to get into this every time an oil thread comes up. Read up on the GM testing with an HTHS increase of 1.5 leading to 5X less wear in two 3.8L engines run on the dyno through identical loads and time to simulate real driving. Bearings and rings were weighed beforehand and after the fact and the oil with the higher HTHS's bearings lost 1/5 the mass.

Higher HTHS is found in high quality oils (or heavier weights). Redline 5w-30 has an HTHS of 3.8 while most of the Mobil One 5w-30 line has a 2.x. That's a very significant difference. Redline's 5w-20 also blows Mobil One out of the water in that department.

Then there's the add pack, Redline has tons and tons of Phosphorus, Zinc, and Moly and the base oil ester is a great cleaner and dispersant by itself. Most Mobil One products have little to no moly and 600ppm or less ZDDP, half of what Redline uses.

And again, a good "real" synthetic provides superior cold flow and high temp protection. You'll end up with a much cleaner engine as the miles pile on and most importantly, the ring land area stays much, much cleaner with a top of the line ester based oil as I've seen through teardowns. The difference is greater than a grp III vs IV. It's a very significant difference and the only way you could see this is through teardowns. Of course what it means is less ring sticking which means more compression and less oil consumption as it ages. Sure, any old dino will take the TL to 200,000 but guess which engine is going to be healthier at that mileage?

The place I agree with you is a top of the line syn may not be worth it if you plan on selling at the 100,000 mile mark as many people do.

If you track it often, it's worth it, especially from a price point.

 

5w 20- is stock

 

Watch for the sales and you can get M1 5w-20 Extended Performance with a M1 filter for $34.99. Way to go if you ask me!

I saw 0w-20 too guys. Hmmm, should I make the switch? (ya I know it is not OEM.....)

 

Your absolutely right im not gonna argue any of your facts. Im also on the corvetteforums as well and some of those guys even send in their oil for analysis so its not like I dont know there are differences in oil. I guess im just stating that in general a normally drivin V6 sedan if maintained properly will pretty much last until the car is ready for the crusher many many years later. As I said before though I do use Mobile 1 Synth in both my 07 Type S and C6 vette. Never tried Royal Purple or anything like that especially after a buddy of mine tried it once and immediately changed it out as his engine would tick on cold startups with it. Never did it with any other oil so I thought that was really interesting.

James

 

I didn't even notice your handle. Was it '97 or '98 when the Camaros got the LS1? I was living at the track back then but the memory is getting old. You understand, I'm agreeing with you more than disagreeing. My main argument is for people that plan to run the car till the tires fall off.

 

Are you actually supposed to use 5w30 in the TL? I'd love to buy it since I can't find the 5 qt extended performance jugs of 5w20 anywhere.

Also, since you have put on some miles, are you getting any engine knocking in your vehicle? One of my friends is steering clear of ALL 3g TL's because of a supposed engine knock issue in the new 3.2 engine. I haven't heard anything about it here, so I figured I'd ask

 

Well my handle is super old I used to have a 97 Z28 Camaro loooong time ago which still had the old LT1 in it (my Type S TL has more power than the LT1 cars go figure lol ;-) It was actually 98 that was the first year of the LS1. I have since had 3 corvettes as well. Two of them were C5's one being a Z06, then the most recent was a 05 C6. I also have a buddy with a Turbo TA (you might be familiar with them as it has your GN in them ;-)

 

Nothing but Amsoil 0W-20 for my TL. Amsoil is the only oil company that offers extended oil drain intervals backed by a guarantee. There must be a reason no one else does that. They were the first synthetic oil. If you do your own resarch you will find there is not better oil.

 

What grade was he using? engine? You have to be picky with oil & filters.

 

Correction

Not the first synthetic.. first API "100%" synthetic.


btw.. Amsoil may not warranty your use because you're using 0W20.. even though they warranty the extended OCI.. you need to follow the vehicle mfg's oil viscosity spec to be warrantied. I'm not sure of the particulars but you should investigate the Honda spec & 0W20 VI spec.

 

I have to agree with the statement of 'wasting money' in most cars like the TL. Most people aren't going to see a ROI for going with stuff like Royal Purple over M1EP or etc. If I was building a hi-po motor, that might be different. But not for an engine from a company known to build them like rocks.

I'm not a brand whore, either. But I've prefered the original M1 formula (now M1EP) for awhile. The MID is telling me to change again, and I can't believe it's already 7500 miles. I'm going to change it out anyway (got a kid-free weekend), but I wonder if I could push it to around 12k. Might have to send it in for analysis.

 

I stand corrected.
It will not void my warranty. The federally mandated Magnuson-Moss Act states a manufacturer may not require the use of a specific brand of after market product unless it is provided free of charge.
5W20 is a recommendation by Acura not a requirement.

 

I'm a big fan of Amsoil, I ran it for the first 76,000 miles in the TL starting around 10,000. However, an oil like Redline is in a class of it's own. Amsoil doesn't make a POE.

Redline offfers extended drains as well.

 

True but as you can see, their warranty is air tight and it leaves them plenty of wiggle room in case there is mechanical failure. So you need to make sure you check all your boxes, cross all your t's and dot all your i's if you ever make a claim. 0W20 is approved by Amsoil as it should be, I commented that you should first verify with Amsoil & Mfg spec.. besides the particulars, you'll never end up making a claim. Matt on the other hand is using Amsoil ATD ATF.. unless they approve it down the line, he's SOL on any claim against them on his AT.. but he's more than aware..

 

5w20 is a weight, not a brand.

 

You're absolutely correct. That's why I recommend it because it works well but I always state that it is not approved by even Amsoil for use in Honda transmissions.

I'm not as SOL as some if mine goes because I have access to all tools and lifts and I can rebuild it myself for $400 and a day of my time. If I couldn't rebuild my own I would not have the guts to experiment.

Again, I'm a huge fan of Amsoil but the more you dig, you'll find them denying warranty claims and I have yet to see them cover one, though that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

 

Yeah.. I alluded to that.. I didn't say you'd be SOL, just SOL on a claim.. You have so many miles on ATD, I doubt it's causing any more wear than Z1. On another note, I was checking out the price discounts per quantity ordered.. surprisingly it's still about $7 / qt if you order a 55 gallon drum of oil.. lol.

 

You know what's interesting, the metal stuck to the drain plug had leveled off to next to nothing. Of course it's getting divided up between the magnefine and drainplug magnets but still, very, very little iron shedding.

After the wreck the dealer did a drain and fill with Z1. It went black in 20,000 miles. My shift quality went to crap. When I pulled the drain plug it was fuzzy like it was in the beginning of it's life. Of course that's not absolutely conclusive but it seems to help my argument that the ATD helps with at least the wear metals. I may run this fluid 30K or more with pure ATD again and see if the iron goes back down.

 

I just switched to 5w20 Royal purple with a K&N filter. I use royal purple since I used it on my M3.

 

do you use redline 5w-30? if so how do you compare the feel against amsoil?