Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

ok so I just did my first oil change in my 05 tl 6mt...I went with SAE Castrol Syntec 5w20 and a fram oil filter...my car has 67k miles and its approaching winter...I wanted to know what you guys think is best. Ive seen the deep purple a few times and this 0w30 referenced a few times too...i dont tend to drive my car hard but I do drive it alot since im a realtor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

georgegiorgio

well, good choice for oil... I've been running Castrol Syntec 5W20 since 23,000 miles... and lasted around 7,000 miles until I went all the way till 0% Oil Life on my MID...

But, get a better oil filter....

T0L8

I use Honda oil filter with either Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec. Most people say Fram filters are not good. I can't tell how long my oil last as I just go by the service minder notification.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Not another one of these threads...

Is it me or are there a lot of new members lately (within the past couple of months or so)?

The best motor oils are Redline, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, or Royal Purple. Make sure you get the right filter. I usually get the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. Even though Acura says we use 5W-20 weight (mainly for MPG purposes), 5W-30 will be slightly and better in the long run with very minimal change in MPG's.

BigJack75

Why would you say 5w-30 is better in the long run? Wouldn't Acura have used that if it is indeed better? Enlighten me.

Ramrodthrusterpuppy

No kidding...


Here's a suggestion...use the Search button, there's a myriad of other threads on the subject ad nauseum.

01tl4tl

google/wiki `CAFE fuel standards` for details on the use of lower thickness oil in an attempt to improve each models mileage a tick of a percent to raise the average for the entire fleet of vehicles made--so dropping to 20 got a tiny mpg gain that helped the numbers

Note that method has been tossed out and more real world--based on each model- testing is now used
5-30 protects the engine best, 0-20 or 0-30 if you have constant overnight temps below 32F, then 0 beats 5 for thin oil effect at startup

01tl4tl

penzoil platinum fully synthetic oil is another good brand-
RP doesnt do much for its price or lifespan for street drivers- its dead at 7500

fram filter quality has gone downhill, so has hondas since they buy mass amounts cheap
Mobil1 and K&N come down the same assembly line and are excellent choices

Slobodan

Royale PUrple... 5 30w.... that way you can beat on your car a bit and it contains more coverage when it gets hotter.

iodprod

iTrader: (1)

royal purple hands down!
get a good filter also!

TL on "20"

mobil 1 or amsoil

BASISON

I use Mobil1 5W-20 and the Mobil1 oil filter. You can usually get great deals on 5 quarts and the oil filter at Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts for around $29.

gatoferoz25

iTrader: (13)

Mobil 1..... 5,30

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips and advice...
as far as the advice on searching the thread I tried that...i must not be doing something right becuase it kept pulling back a general type result in search...

I also have a 6MT transmission...should I use the Royal purple in that too? My neighbor suggested I do so but I dont just want to run out there and do it becuase he is usually on something ....anyway...I think on my next oil change I will get the mobile1 oil and filter...I will definitely consider the royal purple too.

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

another quick question...

how do you reset the life on the mid?! Mine still says 70% and i just changed my oil last week. Ive tried hitting the reset button but cant seem to access the oil life...it just keeps resetting my miles driven for the trip computer.

Bearcat94

Search does take a little practice. Here are a few tips:

- Select the 3G TL forum and the child forum checkbox
- Use a limited number of keywords and you may need to try variations, for instance Mobil1 and "Mobil 1".
- Leave the sort on "Relevancy"
- Show resutls as Threads.


For the MT trans use GM Friction Modified Synchromesh (there is a thread, seacrh "Synchromesh") or the new Honda MT Fluid.


Owners Manual in the Maint Section. If you didn't get an OM, they are online here:

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

Thank you thank you...nope sure didnt get an owners manual...and even though i am sure you guys assumed correctly... the car was bought used....thats why it was my first oil change @ 67k miles

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Most people here use synthetic, but most of the time it is not really needed. Any conventional, synthetic blend, or synthetic will last your engine forever. Engines these days are built stronger and more reliable (well Japanese cars anyway). As long you do the oil change your engine should last over 200,000 miles. Synthetic oil is just for the peace of mind because it's the best product out there. Just like seafoam is not needed, but it "restores" performance and it give's a peace of mind to the user. Keep in mind when you do change your oil to reset your MID and follow your MID until the next oil change as you just bought the car and you may not know.

BradE

Synthetic can be helpful if you live in an area where it gets really cold in the winter. Pumps a little faster on cold starts for better wear protection.

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

Gonna try to locate steps to resetting the MID in the user manual.

j1n

iTrader: (1)

I use Mobil 1 syntetic + m110 filter.

Right now to the end of the year theres a sale on them for 30$ @ Advanced Auto Parts. theres also a coupon for 10$ off that you can get by filling out a survey online and save the coupon and print out multiple copies.

im stocking up on mobil 1. im buying 5qts + m110 filter for 21$.

Jaco

iTrader: (1)

I just bought the same setup at Autozone for the same price, wish I had that coupon.

apnorm

iTrader: (3)

Shorten version from the manual...

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Press the < or > button repeatedly until the oil life is displayed.

Press the Select/Reset button to select ‘‘OK.’’

Press and hold the Select/Reset button for 10 seconds.

I hate cars

I need to save a copy and paste from my other oil posts.

Short version....

The best of the best of the best is Redline oil period. Lots of ZDDP, moly, ester base oil, super high HTHS.

The best of the best of the best filters are Amsoil EAO, Royal Purple, and Donaldson. Full synthetic glass media for better filtration, flow, and longevity. No other filter including Mobil One and K&N have this media.

Royal Purple oil is overpriced junk that shears like crazy.

Mobil One, Castrol, Pennzoil all fade into mediocrity. If you're going to use one of the lesser "synthetics" pick the cheapest one. It's not to say any of them are bad, just average.

01tl4tl

so whatever is on sale at the store you are in would be the best oil at the time~

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

ok so if i wanted a royal purple oil filter what size would i need?

eaglegreen48

I use MaxLife 5w-20 and a Napa Gold filter

NetDiver

Well, it's quite a bit of reading, but get yourself a cup of coffee and read on. Kind of a in depth look how motor oil works. Long but interesting reading.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

Johnny_b

Laziness has set in. Search and you shall be healed.

Frankie02

i likes Royal Purple with Mobil 1 M1-110 filter.

I hate cars

AEhass has spread tons and tons of misinformation and since he's a doctor and drives a Ferrari, everyone believes him. There are many, many holes in his thin oil arguments.

I hate cars

For instance...

"One thing that is no longer important is the ambient temperature. Older automotive owner manuals often recommended one oil for the summer and another for the winter. This is still necessary for air cooled engines but is no longer a consideration in pressurized water cooled engines. These engine blocks are kept at around 212 F all year round. The oil is around the same temperature as well. This allows for a single weight oil all year round. Again, this is not the same as on the track where the coolant temperature is slightly higher and the oil temperature is much higher."

Very, very wrong. Oil temps follow ambient temps and engine load. Not a 1:1 relationship but I've seen roughly 1 degree higher oil temps for every 2-3 degrees ambient change. With load these temps can quickly rise by 100C.

Water is kept at a constant but oil temp is not regulated except in a very small percentage of cars.

Regardless, saying you don't need a different viscosity in the summer and winter due to new cars having a constant water temp doesn't take into account the difference in cold starting temps in different seasons.

"In fact the relationship between pressure and flow is in opposition. If you change your oil to a thicker formula the pressure will go up. It goes up because the resistance to flow is greater and in fact the flow must go down in order for the pressure to go up. They are inversely related. Conversely if you choose a thinner oil then the pressure will go down. This can only occur if the flow has increased."

False again. Engines use a positive displacement oil pump. Unless it goes into relief, it will always pump the exact same volume of oil regardless of pressure and viscosity. Raising the viscosity raises the pressure and flow remains the same.

"High flow does more than lubricate. It is one of the things used to cool the hottest parts of your engine, the pistons, valve areas and bearings. This cooling effect is as important as lubrication in your engine. If your engine is running hot use a thinner oil. The flow will increase and so will the cooling. This is even more important in the racing condition."

False. Oil does not cool the "valve areas" whatever those are. This is representative of someone who has not been inside of an engine. Suppose a thinner oil does have a higher flow (which it does not) and picks up and carries away more heat from internal engine parts. It then returns to the oil pan hotter than normal. Most cars do not have oil coolers. So you're raising the bulk oil temperature in the pan. There is no net cooling of the oil in this scenario.

"Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways. This is especially true when you really step on that gas pedal. You really need more lubrication and you actually get less."

Not true. As long as the oil is within the acceptable range for the climate, a grade or two thicker will flow just as quickly, again due to the fact that our cars use a positive displacement pump. I've seen first hand on a winter startup with 20w-50 in my GN when I left the turbo oil return line off, it emptied 4 quarts on the floor and on the windshield in less than 30 seconds. I've started it dead cold in the winter with a thick oil and the valvecovers off and saw instant pressure and flow out of the pushrods and rocker arms. There is nowhere 20wt can go that a 30, 40, and 50wt can't go.

I'm tired, going to bed but there are many, many more problems with these statements.

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

hey whats the difference with redline sythetic and the redline race oil???

I hate cars

Mostly a lack of detergents. They specifically say not to run it in a street car. You would be looking at a very short oil change interval. It's not a big deal though, their street oils are more robust than just about any race only oil.

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

ah, i c. so i'm looking at going with redline sythetic and an amsoil EAO13 filter. does that sound like a good plan?

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Car Bibs is a great information website about cars:

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Most of the things are right. A little outdated though...

I hate cars

Awesome combo! Overkill but it will get you through anything. Accidentally go a few thousand over your change interval, no problem. Run the engine hot, no problem. Run it in 30 below temps, no problem. Beat on it on a track and it will take it and keep coming back for more.

If you don't feel like the mail order filter, Royal Purple filters available at PepBoys are just as good.

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

^ Thanks for the super helpful info! i like to go overkill than underkill, lol

DMZ

Acura went with 5W-20 to get the overall MPG average for the whole Acura line up to or above a certain point.
5W-20 supposedly gives you verrrry slightly slightly better MPG.

There, you're enlightened !


I use NAPA's own brand of synthetic 5W-20 which is really Valvoline SynPower and a NAPA 1334 filter (WIX) that seems to keep the oil cleaner longer than any other brand I've used INCLUDING Mobil1 AND K&N.

I know the love affair many have here with Mobil1 products, but since ExxonMobil made $45 BILLION last year while ripping us off for almost $5/gal at the pump, I figure they don't need any of my money, OR YOURS!
.
.

808origin-al

valvoline syn power ftw!!!!!!