best rotors?

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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best rotors?

looking to replace my rotors. i wanted slotted and dimpled rotors because ive seen too many drilled rotors crack.

whats the best brand of rotors to get at the most fair price?

thanks in advance
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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The rotors are not so much the issue as are the pads. A regular set of blanks paired with a properly broken in Hawk HPS will last you quite some time. When I had this combo on my 2001 Maxima, it lasted me damn near close to 60k until they started squealing.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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well im looking to replace the rotors just because mine do not look so nice.

i like the slotted and dimpled look with the nickelback finish
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by txTL1019
well im looking to replace the rotors just because mine do not look so nice.

i like the slotted and dimpled look with the nickelback finish
Hmmm...when I read "best brand" I thought of performance, not aesthetics. I am guessing your interests are the inverse of my own. Hopefully someone else can chime in, then. GL
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Racing brake rotors will give you good looks and great performance.

Just stay the hell away from hawk pads
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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im looking for performance and looks
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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i am coming from having a ford lightning and i know all the insides and outs of that as far as performance but acuras are a whole new ball game.

i need to know best brand and best looking
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by subinf
Racing brake rotors will give you good looks and great performance.

Just stay the hell away from hawk pads
I beg to differ.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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ya me too i had the hawk hps pads on my lightning and loved it.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Six Sigma BB
I beg to differ.
I've tried three different brands of pads on my TL. Hawks were easily the poorest of the group
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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sub had problems- its a touchy subject~

RacingBrake brand rotors- info at www.racingbrake.com and www.heeltoeauto.com
thats our vendor MrHeelToe (ck his sig for discount code)

They are expensive but pay you back over time by not needing resurfacing or replacement for several sets of pads!

The one piece rotor for regular TL and a trick 2 piece aluminum center with the replaceable rotor part- when you finally have to replace rotors you only buy that part for the other models.
Aluminum center hub doesnt transfer axle heat to the rotor like steel does- making it run cooler too

Use same brand made pads for those rotors- any brand works good, but theirs work amazing- made to work and last with the hard mettalurgy of the RB side slotted rotor
~20k miles on mine and 5mm pad depth- min is 2mm

Dimples and cross drillled are un-needed on these- check the tech info section on patented inner section cooling vane structure- will take abuse and stay straight,
and still be `wife drives it and loves the brakes`!
has saved her in several hard stopping from 80 when not paying attention to traffic.

thats ET300 pads for basic street use
ET500 for the more spirited drivers who enjoy the backroads and other heavy use and repeated heavy use of brakes

many happy ziners are running them
Rotora is also a good choice for performace and looks good
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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I replaced mine with Brake Italia slotted rotors from Brakeworld and my pads are the Brake Italia Hyper ceramic pads. Its been about two years and about 20K and I am very satisfied with the results. The initial break in pattern was a little scary, until the pads got worn in the stopping distances seemed to be longer, Now the car stops on a dime, with change. There is absolutely no fade, the pedal is hard as a rock all the time, takes a little time to get used too. In addition you will get a whooshing/turbine like noise when you romp the pedal from high speed. Even when stopping hard from very high speed the brake pedal is hard and firm... Love these brakes, no warping, short stops and no fade...all this with big 19' wheels in a stagger...backs are 10' and have 275/30's... Just my experience...
also the service at brake world was great, shipped quick and was on time...
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
sub had problems- its a touchy subject~
Hey, when it comes to ANYTHING it's good to know those whom have had good and bad experiences, there's precious little true statistical evidence to show if one has worked better then another.

Thanks for the recommendation, while I swear by HPS, I'll have to check that out!
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kantonm
I replaced mine with Brake Italia slotted rotors from Brakeworld and my pads are the Brake Italia Hyper ceramic pads. Its been about two years and about 20K and I am very satisfied with the results. The initial break in pattern was a little scary, until the pads got worn in the stopping distances seemed to be longer, Now the car stops on a dime, with change. There is absolutely no fade, the pedal is hard as a rock all the time, takes a little time to get used too. In addition you will get a whooshing/turbine like noise when you romp the pedal from high speed. Even when stopping hard from very high speed the brake pedal is hard and firm... Love these brakes, no warping, short stops and no fade...all this with big 19' wheels in a stagger...backs are 10' and have 275/30's... Just my experience...
also the service at brake world was great, shipped quick and was on time...

how much did u pay for just your rotors? and did u get front and rear rotors?
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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those sound like scary brakes
Good brakes have feel to them across the pressure-speed range
and while they make take time to bed in- they have special methods to speed that
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Get racingbrake rotors,one piece will do. excellant performance and looks.they also have a coating in the slots,hub,and vanes to prevent rusting.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kantonm
I replaced mine with Brake Italia slotted rotors from Brakeworld and my pads are the Brake Italia Hyper ceramic pads. Its been about two years and about 20K and I am very satisfied with the results. The initial break in pattern was a little scary, until the pads got worn in the stopping distances seemed to be longer, Now the car stops on a dime, with change. There is absolutely no fade, the pedal is hard as a rock all the time, takes a little time to get used too. In addition you will get a whooshing/turbine like noise when you romp the pedal from high speed. Even when stopping hard from very high speed the brake pedal is hard and firm... Love these brakes, no warping, short stops and no fade...all this with big 19' wheels in a stagger...backs are 10' and have 275/30's... Just my experience...
also the service at brake world was great, shipped quick and was on time...

The break it should never be scary, with my Racing Brake slotted rotors, the second I left the dealer after the tech put it on, it was perfect. I did a few 60-30 stops to get the pad transfer done they were set!

I love my Racing Brake brakes, nearly 40k on them and there is no problem what-so-ever. No warping, no shimmy, nothing! RB think's ahead, they paint the hub of the rotor with high temp black paint so the hub of your wheels will not rust onto the rotor, so in the event of a tire change on the side of a highway, it'll be a whole lot easier!
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
The break it should never be scary, with my Racing Brake slotted rotors, the second I left the dealer after the tech put it on, it was perfect. I did a few 60-30 stops to get the pad transfer done they were set!

I love my Racing Brake brakes, nearly 40k on them and there is no problem what-so-ever. No warping, no shimmy, nothing! RB think's ahead, they paint the hub of the rotor with high temp black paint so the hub of your wheels will not rust onto the rotor, so in the event of a tire change on the side of a highway, it'll be a whole lot easier!
to be clear they werent that bad, the break in was only for the first 20 stops at best... the rotors that I have are electroplated so that with over 20k on them they are still shinier than my wheels. The pads are a composite that doesn't heat up so there is no fade or softening of the brake pedal no matter how hard I use them... shortly after I bought the TL i went for a drive on sunset Blvd towards the coast and the original brakes turned to mush. same trip now yields no change in the feel.
to the OP:the front and rear discs were about $600 and the pads were about about $200.. I think that the dealer charged me about $400 for install...
I chose this combo partly because of the finish, they haven's gotten rust or brake dust discoloration. I have 19" rims that are pretty open so that you can see the disc clearly.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Does RB slotted/drilled rotors produce that whooshing/turbine noise when braking?
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:01 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
...and a trick 2 piece aluminum center with the replaceable rotor part- when you finally have to replace rotors you only buy that part for the other models.
Aluminum center hub doesnt transfer axle heat to the rotor like steel does- making it run cooler too...
Something tells me that the axle will always be running cooler than the rotor...

Pop your front center caps off and go for a normal city drive. Now stop so as not to heat the brakes and give the axle snout touch. Now give the rotor a touch....go on....I dare you...

On the plus side, the rotor won't be heating the axle so much. That is unless aluminum happens to be a good conductor of heat...

Last edited by 94eg!; Jul 14, 2009 at 11:04 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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On a side note, I noticed yesterday on the passenger side rear rotor, it appears the oem pads are grooving the rotor. All of the other 3 are fine and i'm still on the oem pads from the factory. There is plenty of pad left but there are 2 grooves in the rotor. How come?? 31,000 miles on my 07'
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
sub had problems- its a touchy subject~

RacingBrake brand rotors- info at www.racingbrake.com and www.heeltoeauto.com
thats our vendor MrHeelToe (ck his sig for discount code)

They are expensive but pay you back over time by not needing resurfacing or replacement for several sets of pads!

The one piece rotor for regular TL and a trick 2 piece aluminum center with the replaceable rotor part- when you finally have to replace rotors you only buy that part for the other models.
Aluminum center hub doesnt transfer axle heat to the rotor like steel does- making it run cooler too

Use same brand made pads for those rotors- any brand works good, but theirs work amazing- made to work and last with the hard mettalurgy of the RB side slotted rotor
~20k miles on mine and 5mm pad depth- min is 2mm

Dimples and cross drillled are un-needed on these- check the tech info section on patented inner section cooling vane structure- will take abuse and stay straight,
and still be `wife drives it and loves the brakes`!
has saved her in several hard stopping from 80 when not paying attention to traffic.

thats ET300 pads for basic street use
ET500 for the more spirited drivers who enjoy the backroads and other heavy use and repeated heavy use of brakes

many happy ziners are running them
Rotora is also a good choice for performace and looks good
x2

1 piece with the ET500 are awesome! and they look pretty nice too
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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I failed to give specifics on physics of aluminum center hats - read rb website for details but seperating heat sources is the idea, and the actual working part of the rotor being replaceable later for cheaper
You would be surprised how hot the axle bearings get with race type running, and they constantly send heat to the rotors- even when brakes not in use...
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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NWI
hows the brake fluid coming out of the rear caliper look- pump a few sets into a clear bottle
Also check the sliders for the pads, the grease gets washed out and the whole caliper doesnt slide properly to make the pads tighten against the rotor
If the tab end are sticking on the sliders- one pad can be doing more or less of its part of the work
If caliper dieing, it will make one pad work harder
Some light scrapes on the rotor are normal from the mettalic bits in the pads

Double check pad material depth- min 2 mm but should replace at 3 or 4
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kantonm
to be clear they werent that bad, the break in was only for the first 20 stops at best... the rotors that I have are electroplated so that with over 20k on them they are still shinier than my wheels. The pads are a composite that doesn't heat up so there is no fade or softening of the brake pedal no matter how hard I use them... shortly after I bought the TL i went for a drive on sunset Blvd towards the coast and the original brakes turned to mush. same trip now yields no change in the feel.
to the OP:the front and rear discs were about $600 and the pads were about about $200.. I think that the dealer charged me about $400 for install...
I chose this combo partly because of the finish, they haven's gotten rust or brake dust discoloration. I have 19" rims that are pretty open so that you can see the disc clearly.
no offense,but u got ripped off.for labor for my racingbrake rotors and pads i payed 125 for installation.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by txTL1019
looking to replace my rotors. i wanted slotted and dimpled rotors because ive seen too many drilled rotors crack.

whats the best brand of rotors to get at the most fair price?

thanks in advance
I have my EBC rotors and Hawks pads for $300
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:50 PM
  #27  
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Racing brake two piece fronts and RB ET500 pads...Love the combo.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:00 PM
  #28  
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Racing Brake Rotors and ET Series pads.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:09 PM
  #29  
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the side slots dont produce any loud wind noises on the RB

Test were done by another brand (EBC) on bike rotors, they had been using 5 slots on their rotors for a long time, until research found 3 slots give enough action and more acceptable level of noise--
you can imagine the dual piston caliper, dual exposed rotors, being just a few feet ahead and below you with nothing in between but air-
any noise gets right to your ears
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Italiano
Get racingbrake rotors,one piece will do. excellant performance and looks.they also have a coating in the slots,hub,and vanes to prevent rusting.
i got stop tech rotors and posi quiet pads...

they are very rust looking and the pads squeal while they are cold....

i think im done with them...only had them on for a year abt 11K on them

steering shakes while braking too...not sure if thats just the brakes or something else...
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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not bashing the rb rotors but the rear rotors on my tl had alittle play in the hub.marcus said that it doesnt affect anything and when the wheel is mounted with the lugs it will sandwich the rotor 2gether to hold it on. anybody else notice this when installing there rear rb rotors?
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Italiano
no offense,but u got ripped off.for labor for my racingbrake rotors and pads i payed 125 for installation.
im sure that i could have paid less but the install was for front and rear, also I wnated them installed at the dealer b/c the car is still under warranty and the dealer will cover the surrounding parts. I also dont "bargain hunt" for work on the brakes of a car that was 35k new... had cheap brake jobs before and left the shop hearing rattling, when i checked the bolts to the calipers were ready to fall out!! maybe a little paranoid now, but for me, better safe than sorry..
and no offense taken
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #33  
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The ROTORA rotors and H2 ceramic brake pads are a great combo. ROTORA starts with a premium disc and then machines them, finishing them with a black e-coating on the hub and vanes. The H2 ceramic pads offer low dust, low noise, and good bite. They are a great daily driver setup, but not really a track pad.
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #34  
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Does RB slotted/drilled rotors produce that whooshing/turbine noise when braking?
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ReplayMan
Does RB slotted/drilled rotors produce that whooshing/turbine noise when braking?
slotted/drilled rotors produce that whooshing/turbine noise when just drive
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by csmeance
The break it should never be scary, with my Racing Brake slotted rotors, the second I left the dealer after the tech put it on, it was perfect. I did a few 60-30 stops to get the pad transfer done they were set!

I love my Racing Brake brakes, nearly 40k on them and there is no problem what-so-ever. No warping, no shimmy, nothing! RB think's ahead, they paint the hub of the rotor with high temp black paint so the hub of your wheels will not rust onto the rotor, so in the event of a tire change on the side of a highway, it'll be a whole lot easier!

Gonna have to bring this back. CS you said you had the tech at your dealer put on the Racing Brakes? I'm a few days from buying a new set up. With all my dealer experiences I can see them now. Warranty this and that. Not to mention if you blow a rod through your hood they'll blame it on the aftermarket brakes. lol

I would prefer going to the dealer because that's one less trip when I have to do my oil change in a month. I'd pay the extra money for the work to save the time but will the dealers have a problem with it? Even though my family has done business with my dealer for years they are difficult.

Last edited by Johnny_b; Jan 3, 2011 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:35 AM
  #37  
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Anyone have the dealer put on aftermarket brakes?
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