Best motor oil to use in this weather!!
12-25-2010, 08:42 AM
#1
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
Best motor oil to use in this weather!!
Sup guys,
just wanted some opinions on the best motor oil to use on a 150k engine in this weather??
just wanted some opinions on the best motor oil to use on a 150k engine in this weather??
12-25-2010, 09:37 AM
#3
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
lol doesnt get cold... its about to snow today... your right im from new york but it just as close to the tempature without the wind.. burrrrrrrrrrr
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12-26-2010, 02:41 PM
#10
Team Owner
Another oil thread with no real direction....
I get tired of explaining it so here's a chart. cSt is the viscosity. 100 degrees celsius is 210F and it's the oil temp that most engines run at so it's the "hot" viscosity of the oil.
Chart won't post so here's the link:http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
This also shows that the myth that the winter rating (w) is done at 32F. The temperature changes with the rating, it's not one set temp.
The red chart shows the viscosity range for each SAE viscosity designation.
For Atlanta even in the winter, a 10w-30 would work fine. You can see by the chart that a 10w is good to -20C. Personally I would stay away from any extreme ends of this chart. If it's getting down to -15 I would be running a 0w or 5w, not a 10w even though it's acceptable.
0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30 will all be fine in the winter too.
Oil pressure and flow appear just as quickly with a 10w-30 as with a 0w-20 because our oil pumps are a positive displacement pump. The exception to this is if it goes into bypass.
A synthetic 5w-30 will give you the best of all worlds in the TL and you won't have the need to switch oil weights from season to season. If you're using dino I would use a 10w-30 in the summer.
A 0w-20 will compromise HTHS which compromises hot engine protection. It's fine if you live in a very cold area and the oil never hits full temp.
A 5w-30 synthetic will usually have a higher HTHS rating than a dino oil in the same weight. This is one area besides very cold climates where a synthetic accels. When dealing with dino oils it's better to keep the low and high numbers as close together as possible. If you use a 5w-40 dino, it's going to have a ton of VIIs and shear like crazy.
I get tired of explaining it so here's a chart. cSt is the viscosity. 100 degrees celsius is 210F and it's the oil temp that most engines run at so it's the "hot" viscosity of the oil.
Chart won't post so here's the link:http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
This also shows that the myth that the winter rating (w) is done at 32F. The temperature changes with the rating, it's not one set temp.
The red chart shows the viscosity range for each SAE viscosity designation.
For Atlanta even in the winter, a 10w-30 would work fine. You can see by the chart that a 10w is good to -20C. Personally I would stay away from any extreme ends of this chart. If it's getting down to -15 I would be running a 0w or 5w, not a 10w even though it's acceptable.
0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30 will all be fine in the winter too.
Oil pressure and flow appear just as quickly with a 10w-30 as with a 0w-20 because our oil pumps are a positive displacement pump. The exception to this is if it goes into bypass.
A synthetic 5w-30 will give you the best of all worlds in the TL and you won't have the need to switch oil weights from season to season. If you're using dino I would use a 10w-30 in the summer.
A 0w-20 will compromise HTHS which compromises hot engine protection. It's fine if you live in a very cold area and the oil never hits full temp.
A 5w-30 synthetic will usually have a higher HTHS rating than a dino oil in the same weight. This is one area besides very cold climates where a synthetic accels. When dealing with dino oils it's better to keep the low and high numbers as close together as possible. If you use a 5w-40 dino, it's going to have a ton of VIIs and shear like crazy.
12-26-2010, 02:42 PM
#11
Team Owner
Only their EP line is a full synthetic. Their advertising has paid off. Anytime I hear someone say "full synthetic" I know they're talking about Mobil One. Most of the regular Mobil One oils along with Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum, etc are a very good highly refined grp III dino oil but not a true synthetic.
yea they got me. I said "full synthetic" because I know that there are "synthetic blend" oils also.....
12-27-2010, 09:16 AM
#13
Matt: I'm tired also, but one item I want to touch upon is that although the chart indicates the temp at which a specific viscosity is fluid, not all viscosity oils flow the same at a given temp. If you've ever got caught in below freezing temps with a 20w-50, one would see that the cranking rpm's are slower and the oil pressure gauge certaing takes its time getting to normal and in older vehicles one may even hear tapped noise before the oil is circulated. Take some dino oil, 5w-20, 20w50 and even a 10w-40 and do a pour test at 20 degrees F. and there is a distinctive difference in flow, I've done it. Same a synthetic, it will flow differently than the corresponding dino.
Maybe you've said this before, but just wanted people to understand the possible problems if using a " heavy" oil in the winter.
Maybe you've said this before, but just wanted people to understand the possible problems if using a " heavy" oil in the winter.
12-27-2010, 09:37 AM
#14
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"Look In There (pointing), See How Clean That Is? That's Because You've been Using Synthetic".
Any questions Turbonut?
As for Mobil1, I'll pass. Exxonmobil pocketed $45 BILLION in profits in 2008 while ripping us off for almost $5/gal at the pump. So I don't think they need any more of my $$$, OR YOURS!
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Last edited by DMZ; 12-27-2010 at 09:39 AM.
12-27-2010, 02:11 PM
#15
Team Owner
Matt: I'm tired also, but one item I want to touch upon is that although the chart indicates the temp at which a specific viscosity is fluid, not all viscosity oils flow the same at a given temp. If you've ever got caught in below freezing temps with a 20w-50, one would see that the cranking rpm's are slower and the oil pressure gauge certaing takes its time getting to normal and in older vehicles one may even hear tapped noise before the oil is circulated. Take some dino oil, 5w-20, 20w50 and even a 10w-40 and do a pour test at 20 degrees F. and there is a distinctive difference in flow, I've done it. Same a synthetic, it will flow differently than the corresponding dino.
Maybe you've said this before, but just wanted people to understand the possible problems if using a " heavy" oil in the winter.
Maybe you've said this before, but just wanted people to understand the possible problems if using a " heavy" oil in the winter.
Ideally an oil that starts out at 10cSt cold and does not thin at all when hot would be perfect. If they had an oil with a super high viscosity index, maybe a -35w-30 I would run it.
Right now we have to trade HTHS for better cold cranking. It's definitely worth it in some areas. I just don't agree with running a 5w-20 in a Vegas summer. You're trading high temp protection for cold start flow that it does not require.
12-27-2010, 05:25 PM
#16
Last year while visiting Acura of Manhattan, Tony, the head mechanic was under my hood, removed the oil cap, called me over and said
"Look In There (pointing), See How Clean That Is? That's Because You've been Using Synthetic".
Any questions Turbonut?
As for Mobil1, I'll pass. Exxonmobil pocketed $45 BILLION in profits in 2008 while ripping us off for almost $5/gal at the pump. So I don't think they need any more of my $$$, OR YOURS!
.
.
.
"Look In There (pointing), See How Clean That Is? That's Because You've been Using Synthetic".
Any questions Turbonut?
As for Mobil1, I'll pass. Exxonmobil pocketed $45 BILLION in profits in 2008 while ripping us off for almost $5/gal at the pump. So I don't think they need any more of my $$$, OR YOURS!
.
.
.
Geez, our old Grand Cherokee with 240,000 lived on nothing but dino oil and was still going strong when sold to the neighbor who then sold the Jeep with 310,000. Engine was clean as a whistle. The inside of an engine will stay as new regardless of the oil used, as long as it is API certified with the correct designation. In fact I've never used any synthetic in any engine I've owned, so once again, no questions, just save your money and use dino oil.
12-27-2010, 06:53 PM
#18
Team Owner
12-27-2010, 06:58 PM
#19
Team Owner
You certainly don't need to have an Acura mechanic look at the inside of the engine, just remove the oil filler cap and take a look yourself. As far as questions, no, as I've got 72,570 miles on ours, all on dino 5-20 and you can eat off the heads, any questions DMZ?
Geez, our old Grand Cherokee with 240,000 lived on nothing but dino oil and was still going strong when sold to the neighbor who then sold the Jeep with 310,000. Engine was clean as a whistle. The inside of an engine will stay as new regardless of the oil used, as long as it is API certified with the correct designation. In fact I've never used any synthetic in any engine I've owned, so once again, no questions, just save your money and use dino oil.
Geez, our old Grand Cherokee with 240,000 lived on nothing but dino oil and was still going strong when sold to the neighbor who then sold the Jeep with 310,000. Engine was clean as a whistle. The inside of an engine will stay as new regardless of the oil used, as long as it is API certified with the correct designation. In fact I've never used any synthetic in any engine I've owned, so once again, no questions, just save your money and use dino oil.
What I'm curious about is the ring lands where the real test is. This is where I've seen the ester based oils like Redline really excel. Honestly, in some extreme cases like my GN, I've seen worse ring land deposits with a PAO synthetic than dino. But the one engine I ran solely on Redline had only a brown tint in the ring lands, no actual carbon that you could scrape off.
At one point I thought what I saw was a fluke but when I researched it more I found out that a PAO is less likely to deposit but if it does reach high enough temps for deposit formation, it leaves more and harder deposits than a dino. An ester is amazing in this area. Nothing really gets hot enough in an internal combustion engine to make it leave deposits.
12-28-2010, 01:14 AM
#20
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You certainly don't need to have an Acura mechanic look at the inside of the engine, just remove the oil filler cap and take a look yourself. As far as questions, no, as I've got 72,570 miles on ours, all on dino 5-20 and you can eat off the heads, any questions DMZ?
Geez, our old Grand Cherokee with 240,000 lived on nothing but dino oil and was still going strong when sold to the neighbor who then sold the Jeep with 310,000. Engine was clean as a whistle. The inside of an engine will stay as new regardless of the oil used, as long as it is API certified with the correct designation. In fact I've never used any synthetic in any engine I've owned, so once again, no questions, just save your money and use dino oil.
Geez, our old Grand Cherokee with 240,000 lived on nothing but dino oil and was still going strong when sold to the neighbor who then sold the Jeep with 310,000. Engine was clean as a whistle. The inside of an engine will stay as new regardless of the oil used, as long as it is API certified with the correct designation. In fact I've never used any synthetic in any engine I've owned, so once again, no questions, just save your money and use dino oil.
I didn't have the Acura mechanic do anything. He took the oil cap off completely on his own. And where's the money saving since synthetic allows for longer service intervals where you can typically go twice as long between oil changes?
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12-28-2010, 01:22 AM
#21
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The deal here is that today's computer controlled ignition systems are much less likely to wind up with unburned fuel/air mixtures blending with the oil. Older pre-electronic ignition vehicles require more frequent oil changes as a result.
12-28-2010, 06:39 AM
#22
Good for you and your Grand Cherokee, Turbonut!
I didn't have the Acura mechanic do anything. He took the oil cap off completely on his own. And where's the money saving since synthetic allows for longer service intervals where you can typically go twice as long between oil changes?
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I didn't have the Acura mechanic do anything. He took the oil cap off completely on his own. And where's the money saving since synthetic allows for longer service intervals where you can typically go twice as long between oil changes?
.
.
No cost savings here.
12-31-2010, 06:01 PM
#23
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shit!... I went over the 7500K mile recommended mileage to 10k, the F**kn MID didn't even come on once!.... and I run mobil 1 5-20 SYN....no problem!
12-31-2010, 06:35 PM
#24
Team Owner
Do you do a lot of freeway miles? Mine comes on around 10,000 miles with nearly pure freeway driving. It can be as short as 3,500 miles with very short trips in the winter.
12-31-2010, 06:40 PM
#25
Instructor
ihatecars, you should start saving your posts that you find you need to make over and over again. I do that on some forums that I frequent (not this one though, because I'm a car noob), because I find myself stating the same things over and over.
01-01-2011, 07:15 AM
#26
If the same questions weren't asked over and over again on different threads, IHC wouldn't need to post the same response over and over again. Actually if the OP had searched the Forum, or had done some research, there wouldn't be a thread in the first place.
Last edited by Turbonut; 01-01-2011 at 07:21 AM.
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