bmduncan

Is there consensus on whether the Brembo pads prefer babying during early mileage vs. a "bedding in" process. I'm trying to avoid the infamous squealing Brembos unless that problem has been eliminated recently. Just picked up my 05 6MT !

Thanks,
Brian

caball88

i did not do any bedding and after about 4K miles the squeaking went away. i have 16K now and it never ever squeaks. it will go away with time, so the bedding process is not needed.

JetJock

I went the other route and "bedded in" the Brembo's after the first 500 miles and don't have any squeaking either, so I guess it just depends on your particular vehicle if you're going to get squealing or not. We always "break in" aircraft brakes when they're replaced, and it's standard procedure for most jet aircraft braking systems. If you think Brembo's are expensive, it's over $10,000 for a set of aircraft brakes, and they're only good for 200-300 landings, so it works out to approx. $50/landing including the labor.

Acuraluvr

iTrader: (2)

i am not sure if it has been resolved or not........ but i have recently seen some mag. that the 5at dropped from 60mph to 0 in 123feet while the 6mt took 140. is this true???

chusteveb

I drove my 6MT w/ 12 miles of the lot normally w/o consideration to the brakes breaking in at all. No noise new, no noise now, no noise ever. My first 500 miles were mostly highway miles. TL stops like a champ!

pettydw

The brakes on my car required significantly more pressure to stop than on the test ride cars. Then I noticed the bozos who prepped the car had sprayed silicone tire spray all over the rotors, particularly on the rear. Some wheel cleaner on the rotors and panic stop brake bedding fixed the problem. The rear brakes gave off a bunch more dust during the panic stop sessions.

brahtw8

Check the tires used in the comparisons. The Brembos are the superior braking system, without question.

They need to be bedded in, just like any HP brake pad. Mine haven't squeaked at all, after 22k miles.

ONAGER

this is from baers website, the principle towards our brembos is the same

"Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils, and burns, from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or “Bedding” takes place the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor.

Some race/performance pads, like the Performance Friction’s line of pads, are designated as “pre-burnished” from the manufacturer. In our experience these pads still benefit from“bedding”. “Bedding” pads establishes a wear pattern between the pads and rotor. Some pads, like the Performance Friction pads, deposit a layer of carbon in the surface of the rotor. They need that layer of carbon to perform at peak efficiency.

Most Baer Claw™ systems which are equipped with PBR calipers, SS/DRAG, SPORT, TRACK, and TRACK+, come standard with metallic pads. However, PBR based A-SEDAN systems, as well as PRO-RACE and PRO-RACE+ Systems with the Alcon calipers feature carbon metallic pads from either Pagid, Performance Friction or Tekstar.

Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads

Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors which have not first been “Seasoned”. Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade. Never Drag the Brakes.

Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession.
Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.

When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the carbon/metal pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.

Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or crossdrilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape."

ONAGER

now the short way if your lazy like me and dont want to read all that....

FOR PROPER BREAK IN, YOUR BRAKES SHOULD BE BEDDED....

drive easy on them for the first 500 miles or so... this will season the rotors, heat cycleing helps harden the rotors, do not bed brand new rotors as this can lead to warping and glazing!!!!!

after 500 miles of easy stops, you can now bed the brakes.

Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession.
Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.

now you have properly bedded the brakes for less squiks, more performance and longer life.... who wouldnt want that

bmduncan

I feel the same way. The 6MTs I test drove had much more initial bite than I getting with my Brembos. I'm am going to take it easy until for a few hundred miles then try to bed them.

Thanks for the replies.

wavshrdr

I think it was C&D but I am not sure. I saw the same thing. Keep in mind the Brembos should be the better brakes but it might be obvious until you make repeated high speeds stops where they should have better fade resistance. Often though hi-perf brakes don't work as well in normal street usage as they need to come up to temp to work effective and so often in normal brake testing like magazines do the normal brakes can out perform the supposed better ones but put the car on a track and the difference should be obvious.

3PUTT

i picked up my car in Feb 2004. i bed dem babies up right away!!
it would only do your brakes good....