Another one bites the dust!
#42
Well I have Ruby back and could not be happier! The Acura of Riverside service experience continues to impress! In and out very quickly without any issues at all. Every person that I came into contact at the dealership either on the phone or in person were professional and had a smile on their face!
The even better news is that they are mod friendly! service adviser let me know that the techs were very interested in some of the mods on the car and enjoy working with enthusiasts! They really liked the nag delete mod and personalized splash screen.
For those of you wondering the techs description of the problem was: "found fault codes P0741 and P0722 for internal failure of transmission."
The even better news is that they are mod friendly! service adviser let me know that the techs were very interested in some of the mods on the car and enjoy working with enthusiasts! They really liked the nag delete mod and personalized splash screen.
For those of you wondering the techs description of the problem was: "found fault codes P0741 and P0722 for internal failure of transmission."
#45
When you think about it thats another reason why I was so impressed. They new right off the bat that I was from 100 miles away and there would be no repeat business yet they took care of me like I was a long time local customer. Many times in a service based business when you know you will never see this customer again there is no incentive to perform well for them. This was the exception!
#46
#47
Absolutely. You should switch to Redline Racing ATF.
When? The sooner, the better. I would do it the first day that I brought my brand new car home from the dealership if I could go back in time with my car. With each day of driving with Z1, you are losing valuable clutch material.
The 2002-2005 automatic trans had issue with inadequate lubrication/cooling of the 2nd gear set. However, now looking back on this with these new discoveries of 2006+ failures, I am starting to wonder...... How many of those 2002-2005 transmissions really failed from overheated 2nd gear sets versus how many failed due to worn clutches? I really am now thinking that those 2002-2005 trans failed mostly from worn clutches. Just my new theory based on empirical data that we are unfortunately collecting now with our 2006+ TL's.
Yes, for sure, you need to switch to the Redline Racing too with your 2005. All automatics can benefit from the Racing fluid. I am even adding the Racing fluid to my wife's 2003 Acura RL.
For your climate usage with emphasis on wear protection, I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
I understand the confusion. Most people hear the word "clutch" and automatically (terrible pun ) think Manual Transmission. However, automatic transmission also have clutches too. The clutches in an automatic are "wet", meaning they live in oil (the ATF), and they are miniature in size (approx 6-1/2 inches diameter).
If the schematic drawing in the Service Manual is accurate, I count 25 individual clutch disc in the 5AT.
When? The sooner, the better. I would do it the first day that I brought my brand new car home from the dealership if I could go back in time with my car. With each day of driving with Z1, you are losing valuable clutch material.
The 2002-2005 automatic trans had issue with inadequate lubrication/cooling of the 2nd gear set. However, now looking back on this with these new discoveries of 2006+ failures, I am starting to wonder...... How many of those 2002-2005 transmissions really failed from overheated 2nd gear sets versus how many failed due to worn clutches? I really am now thinking that those 2002-2005 trans failed mostly from worn clutches. Just my new theory based on empirical data that we are unfortunately collecting now with our 2006+ TL's.
Yes, for sure, you need to switch to the Redline Racing too with your 2005. All automatics can benefit from the Racing fluid. I am even adding the Racing fluid to my wife's 2003 Acura RL.
For your climate usage with emphasis on wear protection, I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
I understand the confusion. Most people hear the word "clutch" and automatically (terrible pun ) think Manual Transmission. However, automatic transmission also have clutches too. The clutches in an automatic are "wet", meaning they live in oil (the ATF), and they are miniature in size (approx 6-1/2 inches diameter).
If the schematic drawing in the Service Manual is accurate, I count 25 individual clutch disc in the 5AT.
lol my bad...thanks for the clearing.
#48
Well I have Ruby back and could not be happier! The Acura of Riverside service experience continues to impress! In and out very quickly without any issues at all. Every person that I came into contact at the dealership either on the phone or in person were professional and had a smile on their face!
The even better news is that they are mod friendly! service adviser let me know that the techs were very interested in some of the mods on the car and enjoy working with enthusiasts! They really liked the nag delete mod and personalized splash screen.
For those of you wondering the techs description of the problem was: "found fault codes P0741 and P0722 for internal failure of transmission."
The even better news is that they are mod friendly! service adviser let me know that the techs were very interested in some of the mods on the car and enjoy working with enthusiasts! They really liked the nag delete mod and personalized splash screen.
For those of you wondering the techs description of the problem was: "found fault codes P0741 and P0722 for internal failure of transmission."
I looked up the codes in the service manual and here's what I found:
DTC P0722: D indicator- Blinks, MIL- ON, Troubleshooting- Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor circuit (no signal input)
Note: This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be
caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Here they are basically checking for continuity, looking for poor connections or loose terminals at the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor and PCM.
DTC P0741: D indicator- OFF, MIL- ON, Troubleshooting- Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck OFF
One of the series of troubleshooting steps call for draining the ATF through a paint strainer, once the engine is warmed up to normal operating temps (radiator fan comes on). The strainer is then inspected for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If found, the next step is to replace the tranny. If not, the ATF is replaced and the troubleshooting continues.
DTC=diagnosis trouble codes
MIL=malfunction indicator lamp
PCM=powertrain control module
#50
They replace the trans no matter what. If there's any code whatsoever, the techs don't have the troubleshooting skills to properly diagnose so they replace. At least you got a new (rebuilt) trans out of it.
To the guys that are wondering if they should replace their fluid with the racing fluid..... Many seem to write as if they think they can just switch over once the symptoms appear. What you want to do is switch over asap to stop the clutch wear before it becomes severe enough to cause problems. Every time it shifts with Z1 it's wearing excessively.
Inaccurate, I could not agree more about the early failures. Have you seen the thread where the 2g guys are now doing switches and type F and seeing amazing results? Most had the shudder and flare beforehand. It seems like they had two issues, second gear lube and clutch wear, especially 3rd clutches. Did the second gearset get fried because of a lack of lube caused by a bad design or was it clutch material choking it off?
I read the entire writeup of what the 3rd party found wrong with the 2nd gen transmissions and it's pretty cheezy. 3rd gear clutch steels had the incorrect surface finish. Another was excessive heat in the clutch packs on shifts. Both of which are solved with the racing fluid. Makes you wonder just how bright these guys are.
To the guys that are wondering if they should replace their fluid with the racing fluid..... Many seem to write as if they think they can just switch over once the symptoms appear. What you want to do is switch over asap to stop the clutch wear before it becomes severe enough to cause problems. Every time it shifts with Z1 it's wearing excessively.
Inaccurate, I could not agree more about the early failures. Have you seen the thread where the 2g guys are now doing switches and type F and seeing amazing results? Most had the shudder and flare beforehand. It seems like they had two issues, second gear lube and clutch wear, especially 3rd clutches. Did the second gearset get fried because of a lack of lube caused by a bad design or was it clutch material choking it off?
I read the entire writeup of what the 3rd party found wrong with the 2nd gen transmissions and it's pretty cheezy. 3rd gear clutch steels had the incorrect surface finish. Another was excessive heat in the clutch packs on shifts. Both of which are solved with the racing fluid. Makes you wonder just how bright these guys are.
#52
Sorry.... I hope that last post didn't seem like it was aimed at you. I agree with you letting it break in so you can get all the crap out before switching. I was talking about the guys with fairly high mileage.
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