Ok i aint gonna lie.. i luv the 08 TL (base) w/ Navi soo much that i didnt really think about the deal until a day later.. so the car ITSELF was 37K FLAT.. then WA State taxes was ~3.5K-4K (@ 8.9% ) and i got the extened warraty (7 or 8yrs./100,000mi.; b'cuz im planning to keep this car for awhiiiiile, lol)

so total for this car is 42K @ 12% APR!!! that's f*c'N CRAZY!! (oh yea, i let them do tha financing, smh).. BUT like i said the deal is NOT FINALIZED until May 6th..

Im 19 (on May 13th); Male; new credit (10-11mo.; but never had a late payment); and FIRST TIME BUYER!! and imma put 15K down for the car.

so what good deal can i get?? (invoice is 33.2) im going to shop around for auto loans 2marro.. who's a good credit union (or bank)?? im mostly suggesting BECU

and i read other ppls (starting prices; and)/OTD and want something close can anyone help me out? thx....

 

you getting raped and then some... for that price, you can get the TLS

 

for less lol....

 

That is STEEP. I bought my TL-S in April '07 for $35,695 and that wasn't even the best deal i could have worked. I'm thinking with the economy the way it is, in conjunction with the '09 to be out in the fall, the dealers have A LOT more room to work. Dealers normally have a holdback from corportate (bonus $ when the car sells)....so, it is not uncommon to be able to work them below or right at invoice.

Also, try finding an outside creditor. You will have better bargaining power if you are a "cash" customer for the dealer. When they have to finance you, you are a higher risk and are costing them more money/time over a longer period....

 

$37k is WAY too much. Something in the $32 range is about right I think. TL-S's I've seen (on here) for $33.5 - $35 and a couple of those might have been Out-the-Door (i.e. taxes included).

Definetly shop the loan. Conisder a parent/relative with good credit co-signing (if that's an option) to reduce the rate.



OOPS! Forgot to add: DON'T pay for extras - no special wax/protectant packages, etc. And if you're getting A-Spec kits, Trim Kits, etc, consider either dropping them or getting them later and installing DIY - that'll take a nice bit of cost out.

Don't get in over your head early!!

 

you get it raped!! in the Butt. shop around! Intesrest is kinda of high also

 

super butt rape. get the tl-s so you dont have buyers remorse and go for 35k max

 

also make sure your loan rate isnt too high

 

May incentives on the 08 TL.....
$2500 retail.
$1000 leasing.

 

Go to edmunds.com and look at TMV(True Market Value) put in your zip code and it will tell you what everyone else in your area is paying for the car.

Also try carsdirect.com try to get right at invoice before TTL fees.

For 12% interest I recommend getting your own financing. Try eloan.com I think their rate for fair credit is 8%.

 

When I bought my first car in 2000. I was 19 and I got 0.9% interest. I am not sure why you have such a high interest rate. I just got a 08 TL Type S for $36,000 at 2.9 sure I have established credit but 12% is crazy. I could have gotten a regular TL for just over $30,000. I would shop around or speak with a manager. You are getting rapped. With $15k down you should not have a problem getting a better interest rate.

I would try to work a better deal. Since the 2009 is a new model they need to get rid of all the 2008 becuase they are going to sit on the lot. One other thing with the current state of the economy car sales are down.

Good luck.

 

^^ thX for all the feedback.. keep em coming.. imma be back when i done working my plane @ work (Sea-Tac Airport), lol

 

I paid 34k for my 08 type S in February. You are getting raped with gravel for lube....I bet the salesman and manager high fived when you walked out. Call them NOW and cancel the deal.

You work for an airport...are you involved with a Credit Union? If so maybe try them or if not go to the bank you currently do buisness with and see what they tell you. Also with a bank they will often shalve an extra half point off if you let them do an automatic deduction for your monthly payment.

Shop around, the easiest way to get competitive quotes is to email the dealers in your area and let them make you an offer...its usually competitive. According to Edmunds.com you should be paying $33,100....but then on top of that Acura has a $2500 incentive to dealers so you should be paying under 31k for that.

Good Luck!

 

OMG! raped by offer price, raped by WA tax, raped by interest rate....

Suggestion: get an insurance quote as well as and really consider if you can afford the payments. Forget emotion - go by the facts.

 

I'd go to Edmunds.com and look up the car then request price quotes. In Texas I got quotes with no negotiation a couple thousand less than the $37 you stated.

 

Try looking at this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=price. It has ~39 pages of member profiles including prices paid for our rides.

 

yea i went to Edmunds.com and the avg. price in my area was: 33.1K

 

I paid $29.3 for a 2008 base/non-navi a few weeks ago. They were quoting $31.3 for navi. Other dealer fees added around $300.

 

hey im bought my 07 base navi from the acura in beaverton for 34,100 with all season mats, nw package and thats after all the title license and whatever..

good luck finding a better deal!

 

bought my type-s for 33,700 before ttt, anf that was with the 2500, you need to shop around, they trying to take advantage bigtime, oh and if you really are willing to spend that much get the type-s, its going to old its value a lot more

good luck

oh and make sure the dealer is shopping around for the best APR for you, thats just f'ing rediculous interest rates are down right now.

 

wow, they shoved that plunger deep deeep deeeeeep.

12% APR that an insane rate, how is your credit history?

Dude, good luck...and do not rush.

 

Nail them to the wall, tell them after considering your financial situation, you can only afford to pay XX,XXX, (price you want to pay) and that you've decided to get a new accord instead. Watch them bend over backwards.

 

OK....listen, If you are putting $15k down on this car they better get you a lower rate, thats what I understand, here's why: the more you put down, means less risk the bank is taking on that car so in the event you defaulted on your payments and the bank had to repo the car, they could still get their money back once they sold the car vs. them financing you at $42k, lets just say you defaulted on your payments six months down the road and they repoed the car, there is no way they are going to get $38k for the car if they tried to sell it, supposing thats what you owed at that time...does this make sense?

 

Did you go by yourself? I know why you got such dick up the ass deal... you're only 18. 18 year old = stupid prey to dealers. they'll rip you off every chance you get. cancel the deal and bring your parents in to get the price lower, or goto another dealer and do that. no way you're paying 42k @ 12%. plus, because you're only 18, i bet your credit rating is shit and/or you dont have a credit rating at all. cosigning in this case is the best way to go.

for that price, id get the 135I or throw in another 6 grand and get a 335ci. But i love my TL-S too much, so bleh!

 

J-hop, you're getting shafted in the deal. I'm also shopping around for an 08 TL but not the base w/ navi instead i'm looking to get the 08 Type-S in WA. I've been in contact with a couple of dealers and their giving me quotes of $34,650 which i think is still high considering that the dealer's incentives are like $2000. So indeed you are getting raped.

 

Didn't someone get a TL-S for like 32.3 a while ago?

shop around. I also agree with leedoggs advice.

 

Walk Away

 

Yes my Brother they, are trying to "Jack You/BURY YOU"!....that's alot of cheese for a Base model!....that's TYPE-S kind of cheese!

 

yes you are getting ripped off.

 

i paid way less than that for a TYPE-S out the door, with the extended warranty. 36k was the initial number

 

Hed be getting ripped off even if it was a Type S at that price

 

[QUOTE=MWalsh9152]Hed be getting ripped off even if it was a Type S at that price[/QUOTE I hear ya, we all get ripped!....if we all knew what the Dealer paid for them minus the "HOLD BACK we'd all be pissed!...those form's they show with the dealer cost doesn't show the "REAL COST" ...but hey they're in business to make a profit!

 

of course its not. I had a friend that was a sales manager at a dealership and he would tell me stories of creating invoices to show the people saying that this is what the invoice price is, which was whatever they wanted it to be...granted this was back before most people were aware what they could do with that there interweb
much like anyone else theyre in the business to make money....its just up to you to decide how much theyre actually going to make.

I can't imagine how much the internet caused their profits to drop now that most people can somewhat educate themselves before buying

 

You must shop at least 2 or 3 dealers if an option too. My TL was my 3rd new car and second one I purchased. All three times I went to at least 2 dealers and as many as 4. I got all different numbers. When buying my TL I had to wait a couple months to sell my old car so by the time I Went back I got an even better deal then 2 months before.

When you goto the next dealer...

I would print out some of Edmonds pricing and put it in your TL broucher and have it hanging out along with the paper work from this dealer. I would not let them see the price though. This shows them you at least looked a bit and might have an idea on fair price. I did this when I bought my TL. It was the second time into this dealership. First time I was wasn't quite ready. Anyway he saw I had done some research. I told him the right deal and I am signing today. He went to the sales manager and came back with a better deal then 2 months ago. Didn't hurt they were also being given some award by corporate Acura too in a few days so they wanted to push a few more out the door.

I compared prices here to what I got and at the time I was within 300 bucks of the best price anyone claimed to have gotten at the time.

The quotes over 2 or 3 months and two dealerships were about 2K different.

 

dude...you need to go to acura.com and get quotes from all the dealerships close to you via email! otherwise, you might as well bend over!

 

thX for all the feedback again.. so what is a good starting [asking] price 31K? 32K? for a 2008 Tl (base) w/ Navi.. i dont wanna pay nomore than 35-37K (w/ taxes and fees)

 

^ Dude, I'm not calling you a kid or anything but that dealership is raping you and not even waiting for you to be lubricated. And they're betting you're so hyped about the ride that ur just gonna pull the trigger on the deal.

I bet that ur probably the joke of the day and your seller is laughing at you with all the other sales guys in the back. He probably went home and told his wife about this huge commission he'll be getting from you.

This guy is totally disrespecting you with these figures. Go elsewhere after you've done ur homework (edmunds and KBB).

 

Isn't there a $2500 cash back offer option now? To the OP, if there is an incentive, offer invoice - 2500 and start from there.

 

buy a extend warranty else where much cheaper. 12 % is too high but that depends on your credit,which i assume is none or bad. 8.9 % tax is almost as high as ny(maybe buy from another state.) i would bargin shop more. they rape u cause u r young desperate n bending over. hehehe!

 

I think your APR may be really high if you have no prior credit or if you have defaulted on an existing loan or credit card. I don't want to be a naysayer, but since you're 18, and have the rest of your life to get higher end cars when you have a more stable income/ career, do you think it's in your best interests to get a $30K + car? I don't know what your income is, but is it enough to support having such an expensive item? The last thing you want is to work exclusively for the car (even with a reasonable APR, the car is still going to be north of $500/month, and whatever your insurance is ). Just be sure you're not going to have buyer's remorse being locked into high payments and all. Plus, even if you decide you can't hack the payments and want to sell, the major depreciation hit will occur in the 1st year of ownership. Pleae don't be offended, as it's just some friendly advice.

Lastly, I hope if you gave the dealership any 'hold' money, it's a small amount. They may give you a problem if you cancel the deal and put a deposit down (they may want to keep it). Read the fine print on any agreement you may have signed.