This past weekend I swapped out my all season for winters. In the process I found that my jack on the rear using the tow hook only went high enough to take off the wheels but nowhere near getting the jack stands under the car. Is there anywhere else I can lift the whole rear end from? There looked to be a spot behind the sway bar? Pictures are always appreciated.

 

in for pics of alternate jack points

 

Depending on the addtional lift needed, place a couple of 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's under the jack, but make them long enough so that the jack doesn't walk off the wood. Some say place a piece of wood in the saddle, but don't like that idea as the hook is free to slide off.

 

as far as i know there are 4 lift points, each one located behind the inside of each tire. they are just plates that fit lift equiptment perfectly. i'd say they are about 5" long. these are the spots that i use whenever i put my car on a lift.

 

I tried putting a 2X10 under the jack but it seemed to move around more than the jack being directly on the floor. When lifting from the hook I tried to make sure I placed part of the cradle with the lip so it would be less likely to jump off.

 

I'm aware of the crimps on the sides but was looking for one spot to lift the entire rear as we have on the front. I did try jacking from the brace in front of the rear sway bar and didn't hear any scary sounds, but then stopped.......

 

^oh...i see what you're trying to do. hopefully someone can chime in who has done this before, i personally have not since i have access to a lift.

someone will come in and explain this for ya tho.

 

I believe you can use the rear tow hook.

 

If you have an area to work, try placing the front on ramps and then lift the rear, or raise the front, place stands under the rails, then lift the rear.

 

I'll give that a go, thx!

So there is no other centre lift point on this car in the rear?

 

if you have a low profile jack, you can slide it under the front of the car and lift it from the frame, same with the rear

 

Anyone have a picture of the location in the rear, I think this would help a lot of people out. Thx

 

im pretty sure there is, im doing my brakes in a few days so if there isnt a pic by then ill take one, it might be covered by a plastic cover.

 

I use the tow hook in the back but with a piece of 4x4 on top of my jack. You just have to very careful and go slow. So that it doesnt roll off and fall!!

 

All you need is a 2" x 12" x 8' board. Cut into 2' lengths. Make a containment border for one 2' section by screwing thin pieces of wood around the edge. Fits perfectly under the tow hook with my cheapass jack:

 

^ great idea

 

Id play it safe and invest in a jack with a HIGHER REACH/LIFT capability.

The wood ideas are great fixes, but wood also can splinter and give out, jacks can walk and roll off the wood... just makes me uneasy, and if Im working under the car, I want steel and nothing but solid ground holding about 3,000 pounds off my face. Wood- no thank you. my .02

 

The jack just lifts the car with no one under it. Jack stands go under the car and the jack lowers the car onto the jack stands before I go under it or work on it....

 

I've got a jack that has a 19 something inch lift and if I only lift the rear using the hook, I can't get it high enough to get stands on the jack points on the side.

If I lift the front from the subframe, put it on jackstands then the rear can be lifted high enough to get stands on the other jack points.

My solution was to build a spacer that goes between the jack and the cup. I made it out of a piece of pipe and stacked squares of lumber. Works fine. As mentioned, I use the jack just to lift it and the stands make sure it stays.

 

I think it should be mandatory for all cars to have 6 points:

2 - behind front wheels
2 - in front of rear wheels
1 - Center Front
1 - Center Rear (behind pumpkin or rear suspension low enough to use a reasonable jack safely

I'm pretty fortunate to have a very long jack with high lift capacity and highly recommend this to anyone doing above average regular and high level work on a car and plan on doing so for 5 years or more... If you amortize the cost over the life (and extend your life at the same time...) it is worth it.