Hey everyone-
I'm getting a musty smell in my vents when I turn on the fan/ac. I was thinking that a new air filter might correct the problem. I have no idea where its at though. I have a '05 TL. Do you think that would help with the musty smell?
Thank you for any help!

 

It's behind the glove box, which needs to be removed to access the filter:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=remove+glove

Also do a search on the musty odor to see if the various A/C that are recommended might help. I've not had any odor problems from ours.

 

Turn off your A/C a few miles before reaching your destination and make sure your fan is set to its highest speed. This will help to dry out the evaporator which is where the odor originates. Also, keep the use of the recirculate feature to a minimum.. outside air helps to keep the humidity from building up in the cabin which increases condensation around the evaporator.

 

Thanks for the help. Are there 2 different air filters in a '05 TL? I've found the cabin air filter and just an air filter. Anyone know this?

 

The cabin air filter is behind the glove compartment and filters the air in the climate control system; the other "air filter" is the engine air filter in the engine compartment that filters the intake air.

 

So is it possible to replace the engine air filter, or do most people just replace the cabin air filter?

 

Acura recommends that both filters be changed- at the same time when you get an A2 or B2 code on the Maintenance Minder- usually somewhere between 15K and 30K miles.

 

Is the engine air filter easy to get too? Do you replace both yourself? thanks for the help, I really appreciate it

 

Hey, you gotta get those fingers moving! Both your questions can be answered with a simple search. The link for the cabin air filter was already given for DIY purposes. You now just only have to search for the engine one.

 

The engine air filter is a piece of cake. The cabin filter, on the other hand, is a royal pain in the butt.. at least the first time or two you change it (as in until you get the hang of it).

Actually, the cagin air filter replacement is made difficult because of a very poor design on Acura's part. You'll see what I mean by this when you do your first change.

 

Given the air quality here in NY, I change the engine air filter every other oil change.

The cabin filter every 2 years with the ATP Part # HA5 from www.rockauto.com, $15.80.
The filter media is treated with charcoal to reduce odors. Works well.
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Does anyone know where the engine intake air filter is and how to remove/check it?

 

It's located in its housing at the end of the ribbed coupling, opposite the throttle body. Just locate the throttle body, then look to the right of it about 15" (as you are standing in front of the car).

To remove it, you will need either a long philips screwdriver or better, a nutdriver with a long extension. Just completely loosen the 4 screws which secure the housing top at each corner, then carefully move the top up and out of the way (be careful because the housing top is secured to the ribbed throttle body coupling). The filter is inside the housing and is of a dual filtering design, i.e. the bottom is oil-wetted and the top is a dry paper element. When replacing with an OEM filter, you must install it in the same position.

Really, this is maybe a 5 to 10 minute job.

 

I bought a STP air filter for the engine, but was in a pinch. I couldn't find any others. Probably not the best filter. What type do you use Southernboy?

 

I use the STP air filter. Seems well constructed, fits & works OK, and the price is right.

 

I use the factory OEM Acura filter in both my '04 manual and my '05 automatic. I am inclined to try the Purolator unit or STP (if I can find it). Not because of price so much but more along the lines of maybe a better flow???

Anyone have a take on this?

 

Doesn't the A/C evaporator remove humidity from the air by condensing on it and draining off the water, like a cold drink in humid weather? So on recirc, the AC keeps drying the interior air?
Am I confused?

 

Unless the mildew is in the filter, you will still have the smell.

 

Yes, the evaporator does remove interior humidty, but the problem is as interior humidity increases (as in using the recirculate option), the evaporator will create more condensation. This increases the drainoff and also can lead to evaporator freeze-up (I've seen this on Hondas before). Mold and mildew love damp (wet) dark places and the more condensation created, the better for their growth.

The reason recirculate will increase humidty in the cabin is easy to prove in the cooler months. Try using it on a cool fall morning and watch the interior humidty develop. It's caused by people in the cabin breathing and giving off body heat. Drawing in air from the outside virtually eliminates this.

 

The STP is available at AutoZone stores for somewhere around $11. As far as I can tell, there's no fit or operational differences between it and the higher priced OEM, so you might as well find one and save yourself some $$.

My best buddy from high school owned an auto parts store for 27 years and wouldn't put ANYTHING Purolator in his car, especially their oil filters.
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is the Purolator cabin air filter good for an 05 tl.

 

If you have mildew growin on your evaporator, you have a drainage problem, most likely a plugged drain hose.

I use recirc+A/C whenever I step into the car. Been doing that for 25+ years, including 2 TLs. Never had an issue with mildew. Only had one car with mildew, but I found the drain plug, cleaned it, and about half-a-cup (seemed like it) drained out when I fiddled with the drain hose.

Typically you get freeze-up on the evaporator when you have poor air-circulation. (Like if you close all your vents except for 1 or two.

 

Not unless it's zero humidity outside. Even if you have it running on outside air, you will still get significant condensation on the evaporator.

 

You sure you aren't confusing it with Fram? I thought Puralator oil filters were actually among the best in it's price range.

 

I don't thing someone who owned an auto parts store for 27 years would get Purolator and Fram confused.
Regardless, I wouldn't use the orange fram oil filters either.

 

DMZ, how come your friend don't stock Puralator filter? Is it that bad or as bad as fram. thanks.

 

He closed the store 2 years ago. To this day, he swears by never using Purolator, Group7, nor the orange Fram oil filters.

Asi stated in a previous post, if you're looking for a cabin filter, get the ATP Part # HA5 from www.rockauto.com. It's impregnated with charcoal to reduce odors, works very well.

 

He closed the store 2 years ago. To this day, he swears by never using Purolator, Group7, nor the orange Fram oil filters.

As I stated in a previous post, if you're looking for a cabin filter, get the ATP-5 from www.rockauto.com

 

Your evaporator will always create condensation (if the system is working). Yes outside air certainly does contain humidty. But by going to recirculate 100% of the time, the amount of condensation will increase.

It has been mentioned to keep the drain tubes free running and this is absolutely true. When I use my A/C, I have found the Auto setting to work excellently and I just let it do its thing. Yes, this does run the system on recirculate, but only until the interior temperature as reached your setting. Then it reverts to outside air.. and it does a remarkable job of it in my TL. Shortly before I arrive at my destination (say 5 minutes or perhaps maybe 3 miles), I turn the A/C off and go to maximum fan speed through the vents to start the drying process. This has seemed to help a good deal and I have never had the moldy musty smell in my cars' cabins.

 

Have to ask this.

I see there are some negative comments about the Purolator air filters (engine and cabin). These are currently in both of my TLs. Do you think this was a bad move? I'm far more concerned about the engine filter and any chance contaminants might make it into the engine. I know the Purolator is quite a bit better than a K&N for this, but I worry maybe not as good as others. The factory OEM filter is definitely "hi-tech" in that it is a two-part unit.

Opinions/Comments?

 

Frankly, I use the OEM engine air filter exclusively. I don't know about the Purolator, but I wouldn't let a K&N air filter near my car. MY oil filter is a Purolator which I think one of the best (probably equivalent to the Mobil and Japanese manufactured OEM filter).

 

maybe if you clean up the smut and fast food out of the car... the smell might just go away...



ha-ha
JUST KIDDING

 

As you wish. I've been using a K&N air filter on my TL since ~14,000 miles on the odometer. I can report that I've had 7 used oil analyses over the last 43,000 miles and the Silicon readings have all been below the Universal Average of 9 ppm. The measurements were 7ppm @ 20K, 7ppm @ 27K, 6ppm @ 33K, 7ppm @39K, 6ppm @45K, 6ppm @ 51K and 7ppm @ 57K.

I cleaned and re-oiled the K&N immediately filter after the last engine oil change only because I had the airbox off to also change the tranny fluid. I'm anxious to see if there's any change in air filter performance in my next UOA at around 63K miles (in a few months.)

Low Silicon readings in UOAs are the prime indicator of a well-functioning air filtration system.