My dealer wants to replace my air cleaner at 13k miles.

This sound ridiculous to me, but when are others replacing them?

Thanks!

 

It depends on how dirty it is and what conditions you have been driving in. You can remove the cover and check it yourself. Did the dealer remove it and check it or did he just tell you that it needed to be replaced?

The owner's manual (page 199) says it should be replaced at 15,000 miles under dusty conditions, but it doesn't give any mileage for "normal" conditions.

Unscrew the 4 screws holding the cover. Reach around the back and you will see a wire loom going across that is held on by 2 clamps. Pull up on each clamp and it should release, if not put a small screwdriver under the clamp and gently pry up.

Once the clamps have been separated from the air cleaner cover, just lift it up and remove the air cleaner and inspect it.

 

Is it also that easy to replace by myself?

 

Once you get the old one out to inspect it, it isn't very hard to pick up a new one at the dealer and insert it in place of the old one. Or you can buy it before you inspect the old one, and if you don't need it now, save it for later.

 

Not unreasonable at all, most paper air filters are loaded up with dirt by 15K.

Use a Fram or STP, I've found that most aftermarket air filters work just as well, sometimes even seal better than OEs for 2/3 of the price.

Dirt is very abrasive to the upper-end wear of an engine and greatly raises the Al, Cr, Cu, Fe readings.

Michael

 

Michael: How come Fram can make a decent air filter, but their oil filters are crap? I for years was a Fram fan, but after they were sold to Allied Signal, their quality dropped drastically and I quit using their oil filters. Now that Honeywell is involved, will there be changes for the better? I kinda doubt it, but one can always hope.

 

very easy. may take some jockeying around to get it out - sometimes they get hung up on back edge of the cover. I changed mine at 15+ and she was pretty gunked up...ahhh that fresh NJ air!! I replaced with an OEM from the dealer - too many kinds discussed out here - some people felt OEM was just as good.

 

With all due respect to Michael who provides tons of insight into lubrication issues, in my experience I have yet to find an aftermarket air filter for the 3rd gen TL (other than K+n). The dealer is your only option. (I have been wrong in the past and will be wrong in the future but this is what I found). When you remove your old filter, hold it up to the sun, if you can see light though it it is still serviceable (but who knows for how long). I would replace it every 15,000 or so, it's not that expensive and is cheap insurance. Just don't let the stealership dictate parts replacement, most don't have your best interests in mind.

 

For the price of a "Dealer" replacement, you could spend the same $40 on a K&N and clean it every 15K miles! That was my thinking when I replaced mine anyway.

 

Fram used to be notorious for having the worst-flowing air filters in the business. Has this changed?

 

Financially speaking...Assuming 15K miles/yr, a K&N cost of $40 + $10 for the cleaning kit, a stock filter cost of $20, and annual cleaning/change intervals...K&N costs aren't recouped until the third year - neglecting consideration of the net present value of initial investment (had to throw that in there). If the owner tosses a good filter to switch to the K&N, it takes even longer to see any financial gain from it. If the owner feels his time is worth money and he factors in the time it takes to clean the filter (with the added bonuses of inhaling noxious cleaner fumes and rinsing the cleaner down the drain), allow it to dry, and reoil it, he will never come out ahead.

On the plus side, the owner gets whatever performance benefits the K&N filter provides over its life. I'm not trying to bash K&N, but there are holes in the "It's cheaper than..." claims.

 

I'm pretty sure that Napa makes one. I think its called the Napa Gold, its about $15.

Michael

 

K&N and other reusable filters such as the Amsoil foam do not work don't seem to filter very well at all, at least in many applications. It seems as though they're sacraficing filtration for better flow.

Dirt is very abrasive, it significantly increases upper-end wear (Al, Cr, Cu, Fe). Paper air filters are very good at this, and its a good idea to replace them about every 15-20K as they become loaded up with dirt. If you live in dusty conditions, you should look into replacing them about every 10-15K.

It might be a good idea to replace the in-cabin microfilter at this time as well, depending on its condition.

Michael

 

Not all Fram Oil Filters are worthless, the only "worthless" ones are the Extra Guard and Tough Guard. Their X2 and Double Guard are actually decent filters, but overpriced.

I'd rather take a PureOne at $5.99 than to pay $8-$9 for an X2. I can get an Amsoil for about $10-$12, which is even better.

Not going to comment on Honeywell, not sure on the situation.

Michael

 

From what I've seen, they seem to flow fine, perhaps not as well as the K&Ns. They're excellent in terms of filtration.

Michael

 

To WOOCHOW;

Last weekend, I inspected three after-market OEM replacement filters for our car. The Fram CA8475, the Purolator, and an STP.

Because of the somewhat cheapness of the element (fibers were actually loose) and the fact that the alignment of the seat was angled and not straight, I passed on them.