Acura Alignment Numbers or Good Known ones
#1
Acura Alignment Numbers or Good Known ones
I just got my car back from a specialty alignment shop that installed an adjustable arm but my car is pulling slightly to the right. Does anyone have a sample report from Acura that shows Acura alignment specs. Mine were all dead center but car still pulls. Thanks in advance.
#2
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i would really like to know this as well, mine always had a weird pull too, even with new tires. The alignment numbers were fine and i know the bushings are all good so i don't know what causes it, it seems like bearings are fine too. OP you might want to check your lca bushings those commonly fail and would cause what seems like bad alignment.
#3
Not sure if you wanted a type s or or a specify year but this is for a generic 2004-2008 TL
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Caster Front 3 º 17 '±45 '
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Camber Front -0 º 30 '±30 '
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Camber Rear -1 º 00 '±30 '
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Toe Front 0±2 mm (0±1/16 in.)
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Toe Rear 0±2 mm (0±1/16 in.)
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Caster Front 3 º 17 '±45 '
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Camber Front -0 º 30 '±30 '
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Camber Rear -1 º 00 '±30 '
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Toe Front 0±2 mm (0±1/16 in.)
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Toe Rear 0±2 mm (0±1/16 in.)
#4
Are those camber/caster numbers in DMS (degrees, minutes, seconds)? Meaning -0º 30' would be -.5 degrees?
Thanks.
Also, does anybody know at what distance from the center of the wheel the ±2 mm of toe is measured? Is this from the lip of the wheel, or the somewhere on the sidewall of the tire? All I know is, your wheels will be at a different angle if you have -2mm toe on a 17 inch rim vs an 18" rim. This is fine if your spec is 0±. But if it's 2±2 mm, then knowing this is extremely important.
Thanks.
Also, does anybody know at what distance from the center of the wheel the ±2 mm of toe is measured? Is this from the lip of the wheel, or the somewhere on the sidewall of the tire? All I know is, your wheels will be at a different angle if you have -2mm toe on a 17 inch rim vs an 18" rim. This is fine if your spec is 0±. But if it's 2±2 mm, then knowing this is extremely important.
#5
Okay it looks like the Total-Toe spec in degrees is 0º ± .16º (both front & rear) for the TL.
That means the measuring diameter is 28" if you use the metric tolerance of ±2mm, or 22.3" if you use the SAE tolerance of ±1/16". The OEM tire diameter is 25.5", so it's probably done like that because it's right in between the two different standards of measurement.
For you DIY'ers, that means your tolerance drops considerably if your taking measurements from the lip of the rim instead of the outer diameter of the tire. At a smaller measuring diameter of 17", I found you only have ±1.2mm to work with when the alignment specs say ±2mm. That is quite a loss of resolution. Also extremely important to understand if you specifically want to set something other than ZERO.
That means the measuring diameter is 28" if you use the metric tolerance of ±2mm, or 22.3" if you use the SAE tolerance of ±1/16". The OEM tire diameter is 25.5", so it's probably done like that because it's right in between the two different standards of measurement.
For you DIY'ers, that means your tolerance drops considerably if your taking measurements from the lip of the rim instead of the outer diameter of the tire. At a smaller measuring diameter of 17", I found you only have ±1.2mm to work with when the alignment specs say ±2mm. That is quite a loss of resolution. Also extremely important to understand if you specifically want to set something other than ZERO.
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#9
BTW: If the alignment really is straight, you can still have pull from tires. Especially if they are worn unevenly or different left to right.
Example: If your inner edge is worn on the LF tire, the car will pull to the right because of the nature of caster.
Uneven wear can also cause the car to hunt around the road following grooves etc.. (called tram-lining).
I've even heard of new tires causing a slight pull on a perfect alignment. I don't know if it's uneven grain structure or something, but my uncle experienced this one time on a brand new set of 4 tires. He told me it magically disappeared after a few thousand miles.
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