Absolutely not ceramic pads?
12-17-2009, 08:36 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Absolutely not ceramic pads?
Need new pads on the front for my Brembo brakes.
Talked to dealer service and told them I was going aftermarket. They said to absolutely not put ceramic pads on. Said they will squeal. Said to use semi-metallic instead.
I'm inclined to trust this particular person, but my intention was to put ceramic pads on the car until he said that.
I'm now looking at the Racing Brake ET300 or ET500s. I can't see on their site, are these ceramic or semi-metallic?
Talked to dealer service and told them I was going aftermarket. They said to absolutely not put ceramic pads on. Said they will squeal. Said to use semi-metallic instead.
I'm inclined to trust this particular person, but my intention was to put ceramic pads on the car until he said that.
I'm now looking at the Racing Brake ET300 or ET500s. I can't see on their site, are these ceramic or semi-metallic?
12-17-2009, 09:07 AM
#3
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I would definitely love to know! I have 28k miles on my 07 TL type S, and they have already started to squeal. They said only brembo brake pads. And the service is 500plus for just front brakes and resurfacing the rotor. She also told me the rear brakes are going to run me the same. 1k for a brake change seems pretty damn ridiculous to me. I do want the best for my lady but not trying to break the bank on brakes!!!!!
12-17-2009, 09:42 AM
#5
Of course the dealer is going to tell you to run only Brembo pads. However, most of the pads Honda/Acura installs from the factory are a ceramic composition. I would recommend ceramic over semi-metallic since ceramic would emit less dust and tend to have a quieter operation.
12-17-2009, 10:29 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've done quite a bit of reading on this site about people and changing their pads on the Brembo brakes and from what I gather is is extremely easy to do. I am not at all mechanically inclined and I have changed brakes before. Takes so little effort that I'm willing to give it a shot on this car.
1k for a brake change, I agree, is ridiculous. Do it yourself or get a local shop to do it much cheaper.
Dealer did not say to run only Brembo pads. They just said don't run ceramic pads.
Looks like people have had a lot of success with the Racing Brake ET300. The big question is: Are the ET300s ceramic or semi-metallic?
Might not matter since people seem to be happy with them and they do not squeal, but I just want to know.
1k for a brake change, I agree, is ridiculous. Do it yourself or get a local shop to do it much cheaper.
Dealer did not say to run only Brembo pads. They just said don't run ceramic pads.
Looks like people have had a lot of success with the Racing Brake ET300. The big question is: Are the ET300s ceramic or semi-metallic?
Might not matter since people seem to be happy with them and they do not squeal, but I just want to know.
12-17-2009, 10:34 AM
#7
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Need new pads on the front for my Brembo brakes.
Talked to dealer service and told them I was going aftermarket. They said to absolutely not put ceramic pads on. Said they will squeal. Said to use semi-metallic instead.
I'm inclined to trust this particular person, but my intention was to put ceramic pads on the car until he said that.
Talked to dealer service and told them I was going aftermarket. They said to absolutely not put ceramic pads on. Said they will squeal. Said to use semi-metallic instead.
I'm inclined to trust this particular person, but my intention was to put ceramic pads on the car until he said that.
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12-17-2009, 10:35 AM
#8
LUV MY 2007 CBP TLS
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i went with the oem bembo's but i don't mind the brake dust cause the breaking is awesome! I just bought the pads and installed them myself, didn't even have to remove the caliper
12-17-2009, 11:48 AM
#9
RB series ET300 for average drivers or ET500 for the more aggressive braker are a heavy mettallic content and work on any rotors-
work awesone on their brand of rotors since they were designed to mate~
stops on a dime and gives 8 cents change
MrHeelToe is a dealer for them on here- compare to web price
and rotora or other good met pads, see Excelerate for them,
both guys are knowledgable and work on cars too, not just sell random parts with the most profit margin
metal= friction=brake torque=stopping power
work awesone on their brand of rotors since they were designed to mate~
stops on a dime and gives 8 cents change
MrHeelToe is a dealer for them on here- compare to web price
and rotora or other good met pads, see Excelerate for them,
both guys are knowledgable and work on cars too, not just sell random parts with the most profit margin
metal= friction=brake torque=stopping power
12-17-2009, 11:55 AM
#10
for brake dust: with wheels removed wash both sides of rim and apply 2-3 coats of SYNTHETIC car wax, not carnuba which melts in a hot sun~
buff and enjoy better looks all the time!
with less to grab, the flying brake pad bits cant stick as well- so less attracting more road dirt and brake dust on top of itself
As the pads are in use they shed microscopic bits of scorching hot pad
Even more so if you run slotted rotors,, which shave a tiny layer off to keep the pads free of road grime and ready to rock and stop
buff and enjoy better looks all the time!
with less to grab, the flying brake pad bits cant stick as well- so less attracting more road dirt and brake dust on top of itself
As the pads are in use they shed microscopic bits of scorching hot pad
Even more so if you run slotted rotors,, which shave a tiny layer off to keep the pads free of road grime and ready to rock and stop
12-17-2009, 11:56 AM
#11
if you are ready for brakes- and the wheels are off anyway- go ahead and flush the brake fluid
Really should be done every year for safety- 10 buck DIY
Easy way to retract brembo pistons is to open the bleeder nipple-
Really should be done every year for safety- 10 buck DIY
Easy way to retract brembo pistons is to open the bleeder nipple-
12-17-2009, 02:16 PM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Great. So, I stop aggressively sometimes. Probably more than a normal driver. So ET500s is what I should look into.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
12-17-2009, 02:17 PM
#14
Great. So, I stop aggressively sometimes. Probably more than a normal driver. So ET500s is what I should look into.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
12-17-2009, 02:23 PM
#15
I have these exact same pads and they aren't squeaky at all so far. They are noticeably wearing away the stock rotors faster, but I'm not really concerned about that. They've already been turned one time, once they are beat I'll just pick up upgraded rotors that can handle the pads. I would never go back to the stock pads, the brake dust is ridiculous on those.
12-17-2009, 02:32 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
WRXtranceformed, how many miles you have on them? Those are ceramics if I'm not mistaken.
I was steering clear of them because other posts on this forums said they were a great pad with lifetime warranty, but they noticed at highway speeds that stopping power was reduced. Or that they didn't grab or bite as well at highway speeds.
The way I drive and that most of my driving is on the interstate, this is actually important to me so I was leaning toward the ET300s, now the ET500s.
I was steering clear of them because other posts on this forums said they were a great pad with lifetime warranty, but they noticed at highway speeds that stopping power was reduced. Or that they didn't grab or bite as well at highway speeds.
The way I drive and that most of my driving is on the interstate, this is actually important to me so I was leaning toward the ET300s, now the ET500s.
12-17-2009, 03:39 PM
#17
If you want the best performance, the OE Brembo pads are the best. They dust like hell, but they offer the best performance. Most aftermarket pads are a trade off, less dusting, but less performance.
Aside from the dust, the biggest downside to the OE pads is the cost v. durability. You can get them for around $150 online (dealers are $200+) but they don't last very long. If you get more than 20k miles out of them, consider youself lucky.
Aside from the dust, the biggest downside to the OE pads is the cost v. durability. You can get them for around $150 online (dealers are $200+) but they don't last very long. If you get more than 20k miles out of them, consider youself lucky.
12-17-2009, 05:41 PM
#19
The squealing comes from not bedding them in properly because your rotors will have a flayer of semi metallic on them.
I did and have had ceramic with MUCH less dust for over 15K miles now with no squealing. My OEM pads would make the front rims look black after 2 days of lite driving...with ceramic, it takes 2 weeks to be able to tell the front is dirtier than the back.
Def. easy enough for someone to do themselves.
I did and have had ceramic with MUCH less dust for over 15K miles now with no squealing. My OEM pads would make the front rims look black after 2 days of lite driving...with ceramic, it takes 2 weeks to be able to tell the front is dirtier than the back.
Def. easy enough for someone to do themselves.
12-17-2009, 06:00 PM
#20
i have the ET500 pads, the stopping power is great. way less dusting like night and day. no squeaking either. but i also replaced my oem rotors and have the RB ones.
the oems pads stop minimally better, but has tons of dust. and don't last. its a trade off. best stopping power tons of dust, shorter life or great stopping power, very low dust, and longer life. you decide.
the oems pads stop minimally better, but has tons of dust. and don't last. its a trade off. best stopping power tons of dust, shorter life or great stopping power, very low dust, and longer life. you decide.
12-17-2009, 06:03 PM
#21
I have the ceramin duralast as well with about 3K on them. No squeeling except for when I was the car. I have summit racing brand slotted rotor and the stopping power is terrific!! The summit brand was half the price and work great!! You do have to make sure that they are bedded properly or they will squeek!!
12-17-2009, 08:36 PM
#22
I just picked up a set of Cmax Gold at autozone 60 bucks for my 07 type-s Brembo will see how it goes, the oem pads cost lots of $$$ and lot of dust for my chrome rims which drive me nut.
$500 for the front brakes wow, cost me 60 for the pads and prob 40 to turn the rotors and maybe 1 hour of my time .
$500 for the front brakes wow, cost me 60 for the pads and prob 40 to turn the rotors and maybe 1 hour of my time .
12-17-2009, 09:02 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses. I'm so on the fence now between the ET500s and the Cmax Gold. Can't beat the price for the Cmax Gold, but performance braking is important to me. I'll probably try the ET500s.
01tl4tl, ok, I'll bite. What is $10 that I need to buy and how do I flush the brakes. I've seen a few posts about doing driver side first, then clockwise from there. But, me being mechanically ignorant, I don't have a clue what steps to do in order to flush the fluid. I can change the brake pads, but that's about where my abilities end.
I'll list what I "think" I need to do and you guys/gals correct me:
1. Open bleeder value and push back pistons. Leave bleeder valve open?
2. Remove caliper and hang from something so you can access the pads.
3. Replace brake pads (do I need to grease or do anything or just simply replace the pads?). Aren't there springs or something I need to deal with?
4. Put caliper back in place.
5. Uh...hmm...Press brake pedal so fluid come out bleeder valve.
6. Use hose or bleeder kit to have brake fluid go into a bottle or something for disposal
7. Add fluid to reservoir as it lowers. Repeat until fluid coming out bleeder valve is clear
8. Repeat for other three wheels going clockwise.
Please feel free to correct my steps as I'm sure I'm doing something completely wrong.
Thanks!
01tl4tl, ok, I'll bite. What is $10 that I need to buy and how do I flush the brakes. I've seen a few posts about doing driver side first, then clockwise from there. But, me being mechanically ignorant, I don't have a clue what steps to do in order to flush the fluid. I can change the brake pads, but that's about where my abilities end.
I'll list what I "think" I need to do and you guys/gals correct me:
1. Open bleeder value and push back pistons. Leave bleeder valve open?
2. Remove caliper and hang from something so you can access the pads.
3. Replace brake pads (do I need to grease or do anything or just simply replace the pads?). Aren't there springs or something I need to deal with?
4. Put caliper back in place.
5. Uh...hmm...Press brake pedal so fluid come out bleeder valve.
6. Use hose or bleeder kit to have brake fluid go into a bottle or something for disposal
7. Add fluid to reservoir as it lowers. Repeat until fluid coming out bleeder valve is clear
8. Repeat for other three wheels going clockwise.
Please feel free to correct my steps as I'm sure I'm doing something completely wrong.
Thanks!
12-17-2009, 09:33 PM
#26
I have c-max gold too.
If stopping power is the most important thing for you and you don't mind dusting and changing pads every 30K miles then go with the OEM. They are $200 or so just for the pads.
Otherwise...the cmax from autozone are lifetime warranty INCLUDING wear...so it was $60 for the life of the car.
Good enough for me.
If stopping power is the most important thing for you and you don't mind dusting and changing pads every 30K miles then go with the OEM. They are $200 or so just for the pads.
Otherwise...the cmax from autozone are lifetime warranty INCLUDING wear...so it was $60 for the life of the car.
Good enough for me.
12-17-2009, 09:53 PM
#28
One on the right for me
Great. So, I stop aggressively sometimes. Probably more than a normal driver. So ET500s is what I should look into.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
Can anyone compare the stopping power of ET500s to OEM Brembo pads or whatever they use?
I'm hoping the answer is: stops every bit as good as OEM, if not better, and has lest dust.
CarrieLynn, do you have Brembos? I read another post where Hawk's squeaked with Brembos.
12-18-2009, 02:08 AM
#30
the squealing comes from not bedding them in properly because your rotors will have a flayer of semi metallic on them.
I did and have had ceramic with much less dust for over 15k miles now with no squealing. My oem pads would make the front rims look black after 2 days of lite driving...with ceramic, it takes 2 weeks to be able to tell the front is dirtier than the back.
Def. Easy enough for someone to do themselves.
I did and have had ceramic with much less dust for over 15k miles now with no squealing. My oem pads would make the front rims look black after 2 days of lite driving...with ceramic, it takes 2 weeks to be able to tell the front is dirtier than the back.
Def. Easy enough for someone to do themselves.
12-18-2009, 09:00 AM
#31
WRXtranceformed, how many miles you have on them? Those are ceramics if I'm not mistaken.
I was steering clear of them because other posts on this forums said they were a great pad with lifetime warranty, but they noticed at highway speeds that stopping power was reduced. Or that they didn't grab or bite as well at highway speeds.
The way I drive and that most of my driving is on the interstate, this is actually important to me so I was leaning toward the ET300s, now the ET500s.
I was steering clear of them because other posts on this forums said they were a great pad with lifetime warranty, but they noticed at highway speeds that stopping power was reduced. Or that they didn't grab or bite as well at highway speeds.
The way I drive and that most of my driving is on the interstate, this is actually important to me so I was leaning toward the ET300s, now the ET500s.
And they're a lot cheaper.
12-18-2009, 11:45 AM
#32
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The dealer is absolutely right. I tried Monroe Ceramics and despite their excellent braking power, the squealing drove me crazy.
Although for me it's only on the passenger side, it's ridiculously loud on my car!
12-18-2009, 03:19 PM
#33
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
another vouch for cmax.
12-18-2009, 04:22 PM
#34
i have slotted rotors on non brembo brakes.. Had ceramic pads originally, they never squeeled, however, the pedal feel was strange.. way too hard, no "fade" which feels weird when you brake and the pedal feels rock hard with no give... replaced them with a kevlar composite pad.. the distances don't feel to be any longer, and the pedal feel is much more natural. just my experience.
12-20-2009, 11:54 PM
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
Excellent. Thanks everyone for your experiences. I'm really surprised to see such a high number of you using CMAX pads on your Brembo brakes. $60 for lifetime of pads and far less dust sure is tempting. Seems like I would be getting performance from the ET500s, but that truth of that is a little questionable at this point.
I do not track the car, but I do drive it hard sometimes around town. It's a very fun car, as we all know, and I like to enjoy that every once in a while.
I do not track the car, but I do drive it hard sometimes around town. It's a very fun car, as we all know, and I like to enjoy that every once in a while.
12-21-2009, 08:42 PM
#38
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I'll throw in my $.02, the brake squealing has been the one and only bane of my TL...
Bought the car at 27K miles, had a minor squeal with the OEM set up. Upgraded to rotora slotted front and rear, with H2 pads...
After bedding them in initially, they were quiet for 500 miles, then the squealing became unreal. Tried a second bedding, this worked for another 3-400 miles, the squealing is back, worse than ever... this is seriously driving me nuts
Bought the car at 27K miles, had a minor squeal with the OEM set up. Upgraded to rotora slotted front and rear, with H2 pads...
After bedding them in initially, they were quiet for 500 miles, then the squealing became unreal. Tried a second bedding, this worked for another 3-400 miles, the squealing is back, worse than ever... this is seriously driving me nuts
12-21-2009, 09:38 PM
#39
^^^What did you lube the caliper/pad with.
I had a squeal problem with my RB set-up. I took it apart a second time to inspect, nothing wrong. Then I got some high quality synthetic brake lube and lubed everything. Problem solved. I also removed the CRC disc brake quite stuff on the back on the pads, and used the synth lube there as well. I did lube everything the first time, just with typical caliper lube.
The brakes have been silent for about 11K.
I had a squeal problem with my RB set-up. I took it apart a second time to inspect, nothing wrong. Then I got some high quality synthetic brake lube and lubed everything. Problem solved. I also removed the CRC disc brake quite stuff on the back on the pads, and used the synth lube there as well. I did lube everything the first time, just with typical caliper lube.
The brakes have been silent for about 11K.
Last edited by powerflow; 12-21-2009 at 09:40 PM.
