Ilya105

I've got a ABS, VSA, and caution light on. Been trying to figure out why. Ran the code with my scanner said it was my right front sensor, I replaced the sensor, code is still there, than I thought maybe a bad bearing somehow, replaced the bearing with a brand new OEM one, code is still there, axels are brand new OEM, I even replaced the little ring inside the knuckle maybe thought it was messed up, but nope the code is still there. My brakes don't feel the same as I first bought the car, so I also replaced the master cylinder but it didn't do anything. I think my ABS pump might be bad. When I went through my project installing Stainless Steel brake lines, I accidentally broke a hard line, and had to replace the entire line from the right rear caliper all the way to the engine bay, and I did run dry and had to bleed and bench bleed. I have reset the codes, I can wipe them out, but they come back as soon as I start to drive. I am dumb founded. I'm contemplating taking it to the dealer at this point smh. Any ideas whats wrong? Maybe air inside the ABS unit? I'm not losing brake fluid and or leaking brake fluid.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

What were all the DTC code(s) for the 'right front sensor' and others?
Was the replacement sensor OEM?

Saving4aTL

Hey Zeta, I didnt know you were in S. Florida! I was just there, wish I could have visited the J-Series guru himself!

Ilya is quite the perfectionist from Seattle. This issue has been haunting him for some time.

Ilya105

Originally, I had brand new OEM sensors, but replaced the right front side with an OE one after these codes. So, I ran the scanner again, and got these two codes now.

DTC Left Front Magnetic Encoder Malfunction
DTC Right Front Wheel Electrical Noise or Intermittent Interruption

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Not sure of the problem.
All I can think of, if you already have not done so, is to revisit the sensor location(s) and check your work to validate that it is properly installed and that all electrical connections are complete, sorry.

peter6

If you have scope, you can probe the sensor and spin the wheel / drive the car. If signal looks OK then follow the wiring or probe directly at the module.
If signal looks bad / drops out / etc. then either sensor or bearing is bad. There are videos how to use scope and how the signal should look like. Just make sure you are watching videos for correct sensor, as one in our cars won't function without power.

No idea about the TL, but it might be possible to swap the sensors from wheel to wheel and check that way if it's sensors fault of bearing.

Also give the whole code if you can, not only the description, as then I can check what service manual says about it.

jcanas

As peter6 has mentioned, using a scope would be the sure way of knowing is going on. I just want to chime in and ask if you made sure the wheel bearing was installed correctly. There is a magnetic side to the wheel bearing. Best way is to grab a paperclip or anything small made out of metal and it will stick to only one side, that side goes installed towards the abs sensor. If that was done right then you may have a break in the harness from abs module to the sensor. Again as peter6 stated a scope would be the ideal thing here. if you have a multimeter you can see if its getting just a signal. Sounds silly but also just make sure pins arent corroded or worn out. keep us posted