73K miles - Switch to Synthetic or not? TL base
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
73K miles - Switch to Synthetic or not? TL base
My car is currently running at 73K miles. I want to switch to synthetic oil but I have been reading different post about people complaining about leakage due to the seals are worn and accustom to regular oil. Even talking with the dealer not that long ago, he even mentioned that I might get a leak due to the mileage of my car. My question is, do you recommend I switch to synthetic or should i just stay with my regular oil? Also, if I do receive leaks, what would be the plan to stop the leaks? Do I switch back? Am I looking at a higher cost to repair? Do I just refill and in time the problem will correct itself? Do I refill, but use the high mileage synthetic instead?
My goal is to get my car on synthetic and not have any issues. I want and plan to have my car for over 10 years.
My goal is to get my car on synthetic and not have any issues. I want and plan to have my car for over 10 years.
#3
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
Just do it. I think you'll be fine. Even though I don't know for sure, these problems may be myths from a long time ago on older vehicles. I'm pretty sure synthetic oil is formulated now to work just fine at anytime/mileage. And besides, 70k miles is not that high. Maaaayybe if your car has 180k I would possibly think twice about switching.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong on this, but I pretty much guarantee your not gonna develope any leaks from switching.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong on this, but I pretty much guarantee your not gonna develope any leaks from switching.
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Acura_Dude (12-26-2013)
#6
Team Owner
Most "fully synthitic" oils are far from fully synthetic.
I run a true grp V Ester synthetic because I'm OCD. No leaks yet. Transmission has been on a synthetic for over 100,000 miles as well. Engine got synthetic at roughly 3,000 miles.
Those old myths that started in truth around one of the '70s synthetics just won't die. You can switch back and forth as much as you want. Most synthetics are a blend anyway. You won't find a grp IV PAO synthetic without a grp III dino base mixed in. Only if you do a grp V you might have pure synthetic.
I run a true grp V Ester synthetic because I'm OCD. No leaks yet. Transmission has been on a synthetic for over 100,000 miles as well. Engine got synthetic at roughly 3,000 miles.
Those old myths that started in truth around one of the '70s synthetics just won't die. You can switch back and forth as much as you want. Most synthetics are a blend anyway. You won't find a grp IV PAO synthetic without a grp III dino base mixed in. Only if you do a grp V you might have pure synthetic.
#7
M1 is not fully synthetic despite the name but it is still a great oil for any street vehicle. Most high end manufactures (MB, Porsche, etc) use it as OEM oil. For the price it is a nice middle ground between a fully synthetic oil where frankly, is excessive in a street vehicle.
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#8
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
M1 is not fully synthetic despite the name but it is still a great oil for any street vehicle. Most high end manufactures (MB, Porsche, etc) use it as OEM oil. For the price it is a nice middle ground between a fully synthetic oil where frankly, is excessive in a street vehicle.
What about M1 Extended Performance? Is it considered Grp III or IV?
#9
Intermediate
I just switched ours over to full synthetic Mobil 1 0w-20 at 75k. It now has 85k on it. Pretty sure my oil pan seeped oil before. Nothing drips on the floor of the garage and oil seepage don't seem to have gotten any worse. I thing the engine runs quieter also.
#10
Team Owner
M1 is not fully synthetic despite the name but it is still a great oil for any street vehicle. Most high end manufactures (MB, Porsche, etc) use it as OEM oil. For the price it is a nice middle ground between a fully synthetic oil where frankly, is excessive in a street vehicle.
As far as I know the 0w-40 is synthetic as is the EP line and the 0w oils have to have some synthetic content to make grade. I still would not use the 0w-20 AFE oil or any AFE oil in my TL in my climate. I would never be able to get over the low, low HTHS. I've run it when I was in another state where morning temps were in the 15F to 17F range and the drive to work was short, but no way would I run it in the moderate to hot area I currently live in.
I personally like the ester oils. I've consistently seen fewer and even no deposits in the ring land area on teardowns among it's other advantages. Some things make it overkill for a low powered street car but some features are great for the street. I've seen how well Mobil One cleans and if you pull a valve cover of a car run on Mobil One and one run on Redline you're not going to see much of a difference in cleanliness. However the valvetrain cleanliness doesn't translate into better engine performance like having a clean ring land area does. That's one area having lots of detergents can't help, that's mostly the base oil. Either it will or will not cook off.
This reminds me that mine is wet around the drain plug and I need to get a new washer at the next oil change. It's my own fault, I've done about 25 oil changes since it was new and I've never replaced the washer.
#11
The ONLY time you will get a leak, switching from conventional to synthetic is if your car has already developed a leak. If it's a small one, it might get a little larger with Synthetic however not much.
Change it if you wish, but at 75k miles and if it's been running fine on regular then why switch?
Change it if you wish, but at 75k miles and if it's been running fine on regular then why switch?
#12
Pro
iTrader: (2)
Agreed, full synthetic or not it's a great oil and the price is usually reasonable. Their 0w-40 is one of the best oils around, I would have no problem running it in my TL.
As far as I know the 0w-40 is synthetic as is the EP line and the 0w oils have to have some synthetic content to make grade. I still would not use the 0w-20 AFE oil or any AFE oil in my TL in my climate. I would never be able to get over the low, low HTHS. I've run it when I was in another state where morning temps were in the 15F to 17F range and the drive to work was short, but no way would I run it in the moderate to hot area I currently live in.
I personally like the ester oils. I've consistently seen fewer and even no deposits in the ring land area on teardowns among it's other advantages. Some things make it overkill for a low powered street car but some features are great for the street. I've seen how well Mobil One cleans and if you pull a valve cover of a car run on Mobil One and one run on Redline you're not going to see much of a difference in cleanliness. However the valvetrain cleanliness doesn't translate into better engine performance like having a clean ring land area does. That's one area having lots of detergents can't help, that's mostly the base oil. Either it will or will not cook off.
This reminds me that mine is wet around the drain plug and I need to get a new washer at the next oil change. It's my own fault, I've done about 25 oil changes since it was new and I've never replaced the washer.
As far as I know the 0w-40 is synthetic as is the EP line and the 0w oils have to have some synthetic content to make grade. I still would not use the 0w-20 AFE oil or any AFE oil in my TL in my climate. I would never be able to get over the low, low HTHS. I've run it when I was in another state where morning temps were in the 15F to 17F range and the drive to work was short, but no way would I run it in the moderate to hot area I currently live in.
I personally like the ester oils. I've consistently seen fewer and even no deposits in the ring land area on teardowns among it's other advantages. Some things make it overkill for a low powered street car but some features are great for the street. I've seen how well Mobil One cleans and if you pull a valve cover of a car run on Mobil One and one run on Redline you're not going to see much of a difference in cleanliness. However the valvetrain cleanliness doesn't translate into better engine performance like having a clean ring land area does. That's one area having lots of detergents can't help, that's mostly the base oil. Either it will or will not cook off.
This reminds me that mine is wet around the drain plug and I need to get a new washer at the next oil change. It's my own fault, I've done about 25 oil changes since it was new and I've never replaced the washer.
#13
#14
Team Owner
I know at least one other member has run it.
#15
Drifting
Most "fully synthitic" oils are far from fully synthetic.
I run a true grp V Ester synthetic because I'm OCD. No leaks yet. Transmission has been on a synthetic for over 100,000 miles as well. Engine got synthetic at roughly 3,000 miles.
Those old myths that started in truth around one of the '70s synthetics just won't die. You can switch back and forth as much as you want. Most synthetics are a blend anyway. You won't find a grp IV PAO synthetic without a grp III dino base mixed in. Only if you do a grp V you might have pure synthetic.
I run a true grp V Ester synthetic because I'm OCD. No leaks yet. Transmission has been on a synthetic for over 100,000 miles as well. Engine got synthetic at roughly 3,000 miles.
Those old myths that started in truth around one of the '70s synthetics just won't die. You can switch back and forth as much as you want. Most synthetics are a blend anyway. You won't find a grp IV PAO synthetic without a grp III dino base mixed in. Only if you do a grp V you might have pure synthetic.
#17
Team Owner
#18
the overexplainer
#19
My car is currently running at 73K miles. I want to switch to synthetic oil but I have been reading different post about people complaining about leakage due to the seals are worn and accustom to regular oil. Even talking with the dealer not that long ago, he even mentioned that I might get a leak due to the mileage of my car. My question is, do you recommend I switch to synthetic or should i just stay with my regular oil? Also, if I do receive leaks, what would be the plan to stop the leaks? Do I switch back? Am I looking at a higher cost to repair? Do I just refill and in time the problem will correct itself? Do I refill, but use the high mileage synthetic instead?
My goal is to get my car on synthetic and not have any issues. I want and plan to have my car for over 10 years.
My goal is to get my car on synthetic and not have any issues. I want and plan to have my car for over 10 years.
#20
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I bought my '05 TL at 66k miles, and I bought my '07 type-s at 49k
Both immediately got synthetic blends of oil.
Never had problems. At 73k miles your chances of leaking are incredibly slim.
Both immediately got synthetic blends of oil.
Never had problems. At 73k miles your chances of leaking are incredibly slim.
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