Happy new year folks, I experienced dead batteries recently and I found I have a 600mA parasitic draw. I replaced the battery yesterday, and while its more healthy, the issue still persists.
2006 3.2L Base, w/ Navi in Canada (No XM)

-took out the HFL connector, and solved 1/3 of the issue. Its now 400mA draw. HFL was drawing about 200mA.

Fuse #7 is the main culprit, drawing about 340-360mA. 90% of my issue, but no idea whats the issue. The functions listed for it in the pic below work fine. MICU might be the issue, but apparently the underhood fuse IS the MICU. Any fixes for this one?

Fuse #6 under the dash is giving me a 40-60mA draw. Its not horrible, and probably can live with it since its like 10% of the remaining issue, but seems easier to fix than my # 7.
I have checked (by removing the bulb to see if current draw remains):
-2x puddle lights
-2x dome lights (front)
-2x map lights (rear)
-1x trunk light
Above lights have all been changed to white LED, for about 5 months now.
Power mirror, power seats and sunroof all work fine.
Remaining suspects not tested: 2x vanity mirror lights (light up and shut off properly so far), 1x light in glovebox (removed), 1x light in centre console (removed).
Any other suspects not mentioned here? I HOPE its either of the 2 74 bulbs in the centre armrest or glovebox which are the issue. Or else, I have no idea what else could cause it.

Is the above accurate in terms of what the fuses control? I have not seen any other source list specific functions like the one above. Simply interior lights, or backup.
TIA

THIS might help. First answer in the post. Apparently the nav unit in trunk may have a fan at all times...How do i turn it off? I do use the nav once in a while, but can live without it. I dont imagine its as simple as removing the DVD? I dont see the NAV unit listed under #7 fuse though

I just finished tracing & troubleshooting where my #7 interior fuse draw was coming from, so I know the pain that you're dealing with. I only had a dead battery 1) in the colder months, AND 2) I didn't drive the car for more than 2 days.

I systematically took the interior apart so that I could disconnect each individual component that #7 powers; gauge cluster, wiper stalk, drivers door card (for power window and power mirror controls), pass door card, clock, radio/navigation unit, XM unit etc, and drove to work for a week with the center console, dash, trunk, and everything else completely torn apart. By individually unplugging each component separately and watching the DMM, I found once I unplugged my XM receiver/control unit (just AcuraLink control unit, in your case) my draw dropped from ~.400amps down to about .035amps. Sucks, because I LOVE XM radio. If you're suspecting it's the navigation unit, no, simply ejecting the DVD will not be sufficient enough. You'll need to disconnect the entire unit.

Thanks for your input! had no idea where to start with the #7 fuse. I just opened up the rear trunk carpet (I was hoping to get my nav and radio working and was looking for the serial number). I can kill 2 birds with one stone, fingers crossed. Will go home and unscrew the radio unit, and hope for the best. I am getting about .350amps from the #7 fuse, so hope its the same cause. Will report back later.

So…I am impatient.

apparently my battery drain fixed itself, and the HFL was the only culprit. I noticed drain dropped after a while, so I recorded a 5min video and connected the leads to battery.

it still reads about 400mA as soon as I connect the leads (completing circuit), but only for about 8 seconds or so. Then it rapidly drops and get a reading of 10-20 amps, sometimes 0 for the rest of the 5 minutes.

I guess the 20amps periodically may be the security light drawing power to flash for a bit.

otherwise, I will call this fixed! Thanks to everyone who helped.

I spent a good chunk of time disconnecting all interior lights, went back into my nav to disconnect and reconnect. Only by mistake of keeping the leads connected for more than a few seconds did I realize this. Lesson learned!

I'm having this issue as well. New battery in August of this year. Car starts everyday M-F to go to work, sits all day Saturday....and is dead by Sunday.

Took it to my trusted shop yesterday, today they called me and said yes there is a draw. I don't recall if they told me what fuse # it was, BUT they did say the power seats and power door mirrors would be effected if the fuse is removed.

So after some looking I see the #6 fuse controls -

Driver’s door courtesy light,
Driver’s vanity mirror light,
Front passenger’s door courtesy light,
Front passenger’s vanity mirror light,
HandsFreelink control unit, (this was disconnected years ago)
Ignition key switch/key light,
Keyless receiver unit,
Power mirror control unit,
Power seat control unit,
Rear individual map lights,
Roof console,
Trunk light.

And the #7 fuse controls -

Acuralink control unit (XM receiver) (USA: Navigation),
Clock (except Navigation),
Combination switch control unit,
Display panel control unit,
Front passenger’s power window switch (Door multiplex control unit),
Gauge control module,
Immobilizer control unit-receiver,
lmoes unit (Canada; ’08 USA),
MICU,
Navigation unit (Navigation),
Power mirror control unit,
Power window master switch (Door multiplex control unit),
Security indicator,
Wiper/washer switch,
XM receiver (except USA Navigation)

So as I see it #6 is the fuse for anything power seat wise, so that's probably the one they were pulling because of the draw. However, they recommened going to the dealership. They said it would be better because they could diagnose and try new parts/fixes vs them having to buy new parts and hunt the problem down that way. I'm probably not explaing that all that well so my apologies. Maybe the dealership has a better diagnostic tool? It's like my shop was basically saying - "well we can replace this, if that doesn't work then we can replace this etc etc". and then we are in a all kinds of parts mess. Where as if it's the dealer they have more options.

Hopefully that all makes sense. I'll find out tomorrow what fuse was causing the draw, which I'm pretty sure is #6, but I guess it could be #7, but when I asked what would happen if we just left the fuse out I was told that the power seats AND power windows would not function, among other things.

And yes, the HFL has been disconnected for years I guess the question is - is the draw from #6 or #7, therefore eliminating some things between the two. Ugh what a headache. I'll know more tomorrow after some discussion with my tech.

@jeffstlnote Fuse 6 powers the interior lights so I would do the peek-a-boo test first - park the car in your garage with everything closed and check all the interior lights turn off including the trunk light (check through the pass-thru). Obviously, do it in a dark garage. If you don't find anything, start unplugging stuff and begin with the easiest stuff first. You can also use an low amp clamp if you have one.

The dealer might not want to shoot the parts cannon without you paying for it.

Guess it wasn't a draw after all, but a crap battery that was bought new from Orielly's in August of 2023. 4 months old, luckily Orielly's fully refunded me.

Thanks for all the info in this thread, my '05 (no Nav) has ~0.25A parasitic draw that I need to measure fuse #6 and #7

Every time I pressed "lock" button in my keyfob the driver front door knob would click but only lower half way down. Either the actuator was weak or knob pin was getting stuck in my door panel. I did some lube on the knob and it slides all the way UP and DOWN without friction. So every time I press "lock" in my keyfob the door knob goes all way down and unlock the pins goes up all the way. No more drained batteries after I lubed the lock pin. So I assume a stuck locking knob stuck half way will cause the actuator or security system to go crazy and drain the battery.

can you direct me to where the XM unit is? Is it what’s in the truck with the disc drive on it?

no, but its a few inches forward of that DVD nav unit

ok, I think my XM unit was potentially replaced with an iPod adapter thing at one point? I believe I remember reading about an iPod adapter that uses the xm function on the stereo, so that must be where the xm unit went

You gotta 1st remove the DVD navigation unit so that you can peel back the trunk liner on the passenger side, then the XM module is behind there.

note about measuring current draw at the battery with 1 terminal disconnected and then placing an Ammeter in series.

When the cable is disconnected from the terminal it takes a few seconds for the capacitance to fully drain out.
Simiilarly, when you connect your amp meter in series between the cable and the battery terminal, it takes a few seconds to "recharge" the caps in all the various circuits.
So, as you observe the amp meter when you first make the connection, you will see current flow.. like on my meter is was about 1.2 amps...
Then mysteriously after a few seconds you should see the current drop to zero when all the caps have been charged up again. Tthat is normal operation.
What you do not want to see is current continuing to flow after the caps in all circuits have been charged. That should be fairly quick. Like in 10 seconds all the caps should be fuily charged and you should see the current drop to zero.
But you WILL see current flow, even with everything off, for a few seconds until all the caps charge up. ---normal

So glad I found your post! I have a 2005 RL and it's killed 4 batteries in the last 10 yrs - dealer claimed they checked for parasitic losses but found nothing, but yesterday I did the test with my own DVM and it read a 1.3A draw - I was shocked, as that will drain a battery in < 24 hours, which is exactly what had been happening, had to recharge it every day I needed to drive it. But I don't think I took held the DVM clip to the neg battery terminal for 10 seconds, so now I need to repeat the test and see what the drain ends up being after all the caps are charged - I'm very suspicious it's still going to be > 1A because out of the blue the battery just started discharging >50% of it's capacity overnight - it was fine last Monday, didn't drive on Tue, and on Wed, voltage was down to 9.1V, took over 3 hours for my old 10A charger to restore it to 100% - could that low voltage and low capacity have caused damage to the battery? I also unhooked the neg battery cable, didn't start the car for the last 3 days, and voltage today was exactly the same as it was after I recharged it Friday morning, 12.45V. What the hell could cause such a massive draw with everything in the car turned off is beyond my comprehension - that's a HUGE power drain!

I usually buy my batteries at Walmart. It may sound crazy but that is what I do. I always buy the High cranking amp battery with a 3 year life span. They also sell a 1 year , 2 yr and 4yr battery. All i know if that the 3 year batteries last almost exactly 3 years. I have done this many times. Any longer and it is TOAST. I bought my car in 2007, and so I have had it 18 years. If you do that math, that is 6 batteries! And I can tell you I FEEL like I change my battery like I change my socks. Once the battery gets past its life cycle, they will not hold a charge. Colder weather is worse. Warmer weather helps, and warmer weather may help them show voltage but it may not provide the neccessary amperage to start the car.
Anyway! before you go any further, Verify the age of your battery. Either look at the side or top of the battery, or pull your original receipt. Walmart batteries have a DECAL right on top. This is the Purchase date.

Just had the battery replaced at the dealer last Jan, date code on it is 9/23, so it sat on a shelf for 4 months then was in my car for 14 months before something started draining it every day - and they replaced my Auto Advance AGM battery with a no-name wet battery - never knew that and I'm pissed off, plus they got rid of the core despite me telling them to save it so I could get a refund from AA for the remaining 22 months on the warranty - I've had AGMs in every car I've owned since 1990 and therefore have never even thought to check the battery water level, which was fine, thank god. Just a royal PITA to have to remove the tiedown strap to check the water levels - there was some sort of insert in the side of plastic battery box that fell out when I removed the bolt, left a gaping 1/2" hole in the slot where the insert was, had to glue a fender washer to a new 10 mm bolt to reinstall the strap. Well, I assume there was a threaded insert since I didn't need two wrenches to remove the bolt, but there also was no obvious markings or color changes on the plastic around that slot that would indicate an insert had been there for 20 years. Whatever was in there fell down into the engine somewhere, probably sitting on the belly tray, but I couldn't find it - wasn't on the driveway.