126,000 miles on my brakes! Time for new ones
#1
126,000 miles on my brakes! Time for new ones
Finally time to replace my brakes after 126,000 miles. I ordered the Aspec pads and am interested in recommendations for rotors. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
I drive mostly freeway, open roads and mountain roads in the Sierras of Central Cal. Not much city driving to wear out my brakes.
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#15
05/5AT/Navi/ABP/Quartz
#16
Team Owner
I've got 85,000 now on the original 5at brakes and they look to have half or more pad left. However the rotors are blue and cracked from the track so it's getting a BBK upgrade. It's a shame because I think I could get a good 150,000 miles out of these and it's tempting to try.
#17
5AT for me!
Originally Posted by I hate cars
I've got 85,000 now on the original 5at brakes and they look to have half or more pad left. However the rotors are blue and cracked from the track so it's getting a BBK upgrade. It's a shame because I think I could get a good 150,000 miles out of these and it's tempting to try
I'll let you know if I can get there.
#18
Correct about where I live.
#22
pad life is not the entire depth of the pad!!!!
Once they reach 4 mm thickness of pad material (2mm is min and where the noise tab hits) they lose a lot of their abilty to shed heat, thus stopping distance increases and ~real brakes~ wont be there when you need them.
Pads should be removed and inspected annually- when you flush the brake fluid is a good time- ck pads and rotors for heat stress and wear pattern, clean and lube the slider plates the pads move in and out on, and the backs of the pads so they move freely in the caliper.
phee- what brand pads are you using? tried RB on their rotors?
first track day or 2 wont put much wear on the brakes, like a fun run to the mountains.
Noob group doesnt push the car hard enough to worry about pad wear
Go a few times-- and start carrying a set of serious `track only pads` you change to for the day
Once they reach 4 mm thickness of pad material (2mm is min and where the noise tab hits) they lose a lot of their abilty to shed heat, thus stopping distance increases and ~real brakes~ wont be there when you need them.
Pads should be removed and inspected annually- when you flush the brake fluid is a good time- ck pads and rotors for heat stress and wear pattern, clean and lube the slider plates the pads move in and out on, and the backs of the pads so they move freely in the caliper.
phee- what brand pads are you using? tried RB on their rotors?
first track day or 2 wont put much wear on the brakes, like a fun run to the mountains.
Noob group doesnt push the car hard enough to worry about pad wear
Go a few times-- and start carrying a set of serious `track only pads` you change to for the day
#23
a detailers tip on brake dust-
while the wheels are off- wash on both sides and apply 2-3 coats of SYNTHETIC car wax (100 degree higher melt point than carnubas 120F)
Do both sides of the rims and buff- will look awesome!
Now the scalding hot bits of brake pad dont have an easy place to grab onto and attract more road dirt and pad bits to the area
Its a normal part of braking, friction to heat= pad wear
if yours dont make dust they probably dont stop great either
while the wheels are off- wash on both sides and apply 2-3 coats of SYNTHETIC car wax (100 degree higher melt point than carnubas 120F)
Do both sides of the rims and buff- will look awesome!
Now the scalding hot bits of brake pad dont have an easy place to grab onto and attract more road dirt and pad bits to the area
Its a normal part of braking, friction to heat= pad wear
if yours dont make dust they probably dont stop great either
#26
ceramics have low dusting due to their content but wont stop as hard as a semi mettalic pad will
Fine for normal drivers~
new brakes take a few weeks to bed in and get 100 percent contact of pad and rotor
Fine for normal drivers~
new brakes take a few weeks to bed in and get 100 percent contact of pad and rotor
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