right now im passing 105k miles on my 04. oil life is 50%. these are the services i came up with after searching. anything else? btw, ill be going turbo real soon if that matters

Timing belt
Timing belt auto-tensioner
Timing belt Tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Serpentine Belt
Water pump
Coolant service
Valve Adjustment

did my plugs already

 

Libert,

I just did my 105k service and I think all the things you have listed were the "Optimum" service....cost me a bit more, but she runs noticeably better.

 

if you dont mind me asking, how much did it all cost?

 

so you did everything i listed? how much did it cost you?

 

On my 105K maintenance, they replaced the timing belt, water pump, coolant and tensioner. I did the plugs myself.

I think the dealership charged me ~$850 IIRC.

 

what do you guys think about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...Q5fAccessories

whats missing?

 

i put those parts into http://acura.bernardiparts.com/default.aspx and the total with shipping is 377. not bad i think. just gotta pay for labor which will be about a grand

 

Sounds right, do a seafoam.

 

i actually did a seafoam last night. got a misfire in cylinder 2

 

What is book time on this job?

 

acura of wantagh on long island quoted this job at $1100. that includes

Timing belt
Timing belt auto-tensioner
Timing belt Tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Serpentine Belt
Water pump
Coolant service

they said they would also include a valve adjustment in that price. if so, that seems like a good deal bc IIRC a valve adjustment is like 300.

if i brought them the parts, the labor was $750 but they said they cant guarantee the work even if i brought them oem parts. i dont understand that. it would be around the same price bc the parts alone are 377.

the only cheaper route is to bring oem parts to a local mechanic.

btw, acura of valley stream said $1275 with a valve adjustment

 

Including valve adjustment, that's not a bad price at all. You probably could save another $100-$300 by going to a local shop, not really sure what a local shop charges for valve adjustment.

The other consideration is warranty: how long does Acura warranty their work for? Compare that to the warranty offered by the local shop of your choice.

 

yea i know could save a few bucks from a local shop...call me crazy but i feel better about acura doing it for me. plus idk any good shops that i can trust

also i just found a 10% coupon on there website, so that makes everything $1000

 

Try getting a price from a Honda Dealership.

 

Went to my local dealer shop (piazza acura) they want $745 just for the labor and doesn't include all the parts that you guys are listing.

 

can someone tell me why do Honda's / Acura's need Valve adjustments when other cars don't? That is the one thing I don't understand. Also does the 3.5L in the Type-S have a Timing belt or chain?

 

Belt. It's the same motor as every other Honda V6. Honda has yet to make a chain-driven V6...

BTW: The owners manual only recommends a valve adjustment if the valvetrain is noisy.

PS: Honda recommend lots of things that other manufactures don't. If you ever take a look at a Subaru owners manual, there is no mention of the rear diff or transmission fluid...

 

^^ Wow didn't know that on Subarus. Haha. Thanks man.

 

Why do they need this adjustment?

Acura and Honda cars use solid lifters. Most other car use a hydraulic lifter.
What is the difference in the design of a Hydraulic and Mechanical Lifter?
Basically, the hydraulic lifter pushrod seat is moveable, the mechanical lifter seat is not. Both lifter types look the same from the outside, with both having pushrod seats held in by a retaining lock. The pushrod seat in a mechanical lifter usually registers upon an internal step inside the lifter body preventing it from moving (thus it gets the nickname Solid Lifter). What's below the pushrod seat in the hydraulic lifter is a different story. Its pushrod seat is not restricted by a step, but instead sits on top of a moveable hydraulic mechanism which acts like a tiny hydraulic pump. Below this mechanism is valving and a spring to produce an upward force, moving the pushrod seat upward against the retaining lock.

Solid lifters require an adjustment about every 40-50K. I dont mess with it unless they become noisy.

 

so i just got this service done. dealer didnt replace the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley bc they said those parts didnt need to be replaced. what do u guys think?

they did the timing belt, serpentine/accessory belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump and coolant. valves were checked but they said they were fine.

when i picked up the car i did a once over on the engine bay and noticed the reservoir tank was almost empty so i had them fill it up. i couldnt really see anything else bc it was dark so i went home. when i got home i checked again and noticed there was a 10mm bolt sitting on the plastic cover on the bottom of the windshield. these buttheads forgot to attach the engine ground wire.

honestly, the car feels exactly the same. maybe thats a good sign that my car was driving perfectly before.

 

Personally I wouldn't repalce those pulleys if they weren't squeaking. But that's because I know how to get back in there if they ever do start squeaking. You should be just fine w/ the job you got. Provided they didn't leave any other bolts out... :\

 

yea they aren't squeaking so i guess im good on those pulleys.

im gonna double check the work again tomorrow. that missing bolt got me worried. im surprised i didnt get a cel

 

I have over 50k milage on my 2004 TL
Is there any maintenance/service I should be looking out for besides oil change?

 

If you haven't already, do a brake bleed (every 3 years) and a transmission fluid change...

Of course there's always the engine and cabin filter changes too...

 

will look into that
go to a local mechanic shop I suppose?

 

whitebear did me a quote of $1050 including the

drive belts
tensioners
t-belt
water pump
coolant service
something about bearings (pully i think)