[DIY] Add some security - Shock Sensors to Factory Alarm
#161
6SPEED FEVER
iTrader: (1)
I did this mod today and I'm almost happy with it.......I have two shock sensors setup front and trunk.....sensitivity at the max....when I hit the car shock sensor recognize and activate but alarm won't go off only sometimes after banging it for a long time alarm goes off....I want it to set off by just one tap...
I have narrowed it down that it's probably the trigger wire that goes to the hood latch because everything is in working order...I'm going to try and figure out how to give it more voltage signal and see how that works,my friend who install alarms and music going to help me when he has some free time, anyone has any input?
I have narrowed it down that it's probably the trigger wire that goes to the hood latch because everything is in working order...I'm going to try and figure out how to give it more voltage signal and see how that works,my friend who install alarms and music going to help me when he has some free time, anyone has any input?
#163
Race Director
Thread Starter
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I'm actually reading up on adding a tilt sensor.
There's three wires on the tilt sensor,
One is for constant power, one is ground, and one is trigger.
The ground wire is supposed to be wired to a wire that's powered on when the car turns off I think. This allows the tilt sensor to use its "recalibration" feature to see what level you're parked on every time you shut off your car.
Stay tuned.
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Tannn (08-22-2012)
#164
Advanced
No, you wouldn't need two add-a-fuses.
I'm actually reading up on adding a tilt sensor.
There's three wires on the tilt sensor,
One is for constant power, one is ground, and one is trigger.
The ground wire is supposed to be wired to a wire that's powered on when the car turns off I think. This allows the tilt sensor to use its "recalibration" feature to see what level you're parked on every time you shut off your car.
Stay tuned.
I'm actually reading up on adding a tilt sensor.
There's three wires on the tilt sensor,
One is for constant power, one is ground, and one is trigger.
The ground wire is supposed to be wired to a wire that's powered on when the car turns off I think. This allows the tilt sensor to use its "recalibration" feature to see what level you're parked on every time you shut off your car.
Stay tuned.
#165
Race Director
No, you wouldn't need two add-a-fuses.
I'm actually reading up on adding a tilt sensor.
There's three wires on the tilt sensor,
One is for constant power, one is ground, and one is trigger.
The ground wire is supposed to be wired to a wire that's powered on when the car turns off I think. This allows the tilt sensor to use its "recalibration" feature to see what level you're parked on every time you shut off your car.
Stay tuned.
I'm actually reading up on adding a tilt sensor.
There's three wires on the tilt sensor,
One is for constant power, one is ground, and one is trigger.
The ground wire is supposed to be wired to a wire that's powered on when the car turns off I think. This allows the tilt sensor to use its "recalibration" feature to see what level you're parked on every time you shut off your car.
Stay tuned.
If you are connecting both the tilt sensor and shock sensor trigger wires to the hood pin wire, they both should be diode isolated.
No
#166
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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Also worth noting...our hood release trigger has a delay from when you first arm the car. Maybe 30 seconds. This is helpful to know when you're testing it out...I was baffled when I was because I'd arm it and then walk around the car and bang on it and NOTHING. Then, the following time it would set it off.
Let's be honest though, you can install about 100 of these things on the car and if someone wants the car or to break in, they probably will anyway.
Let's be honest though, you can install about 100 of these things on the car and if someone wants the car or to break in, they probably will anyway.
#167
Three Wheelin'
Also worth noting...our hood release trigger has a delay from when you first arm the car. Maybe 30 seconds. This is helpful to know when you're testing it out...I was baffled when I was because I'd arm it and then walk around the car and bang on it and NOTHING. Then, the following time it would set it off.
Let's be honest though, you can install about 100 of these things on the car and if someone wants the car or to break in, they probably will anyway.
Let's be honest though, you can install about 100 of these things on the car and if someone wants the car or to break in, they probably will anyway.
Since I have a long driveway. That will give me enough time to run out with my shotgun and scare them away.
#168
takin care of Business in
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so if someone was to try stealing your car within 30 seconds of you locking it then you need to scare them else the alarm will go off instantly....
#170
Race Director
Just to be clear: It's not a function of the switches, it's the built in delay for the alarm unit. The security light starts flashing once the driver's side door is locked (either by key or remote), but the alarm unit doesn't arm until a short time later (the light will start flashing faster).
#171
Race Director
The orange wire (DEI tilt sensor) needs to be connected to the alarm "ground when armed" wire which is located inside the driver's side door panel. Another option is to connect it to an ignition wire that "rests at ground" when the ignition is turned off. As near as I can tell, no such wire exists so you are stuck with taking the driver's side door panel off....
#172
Race Director
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#174
OMG-6SPD
iTrader: (1)
I just installed this shock sensor yesterday, and I read from a couple of yall here saying yall were gonna add another kind of sensor (tilt & proximity or something like that) for when a thief tries to jack your wheels, tow your car or smash your glass. I installed mine with the sensitivity set all the way and it picks up kicks from my wheel or whenever I hit the glass. Here's my vid of kicking my tire. So im guessing it works good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAIe...e_gdata_player
Sorry if I made any typos,im on my phone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAIe...e_gdata_player
Sorry if I made any typos,im on my phone.
#175
Intermediate
I just installed this shock sensor yesterday, and I read from a couple of yall here saying yall were gonna add another kind of sensor (tilt & proximity or something like that) for when a thief tries to jack your wheels, tow your car or smash your glass. I installed mine with the sensitivity set all the way and it picks up kicks from my wheel or whenever I hit the glass. Here's my vid of kicking my tire. So im guessing it works good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAIe...e_gdata_player
Sorry if I made any typos,im on my phone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAIe...e_gdata_player
Sorry if I made any typos,im on my phone.
#176
OMG-6SPD
iTrader: (1)
My sensitivity is set all the way up and the damn thing doesn't respond to kicks or when I try shaking the car. It's zip tied to the big metal below the steering. How do I know it works? From time to time, I open my trunk to put something in there before unlocking the car and when I close it no matter how lightly I do it, the alarm goes off. I think I got a faulty sensor.
#177
I just did this mod and I taped into the red/white wire to the security and it didn't work for me, I tried tapping into the black/white and it works like a charm. Just wanted to let people know if they are attempting this mod, next one I will add is the tilt sensor. Still looking for a good place to set the shock in place besides the steering wheel column, since it didn't work that well for me. There's a lot of people with sound system here including me so I wouldn't want my car to go off like every night if I set it too sensitive.
#178
was wondering with the people that did this mod, where did you put the shock sensor at, i tried the steering wheel and i set it all the way to the right as possible which hits like 6 or 7 o clock and i zip tied it to different parts under the steering wheel and when i pound on the doors and fender and i meant pounding it hard the sensor doesnt go off. i tested the sensor it works but i just cant figure out any spots, i also tried to put it underneath the carpet by the gas cap release but no luck. pictures would be great of where you guys put it would be great.
-if theres no other spot i might just buy 4 sensor shock and tilt and put one sensor on each door so for sure itll sensor ahha.
-if theres no other spot i might just buy 4 sensor shock and tilt and put one sensor on each door so for sure itll sensor ahha.
#180
I remember reading somewhere that factory alarm suppose to go off for only 2 mins unless you changed it somehow.
#181
Race Director
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Press the unlock button to stop the alarm, if not, it will turn itself off after 2 mins.
#183
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
couple of questions about this install...
i got the dei 504m shock sensor and the 507m tilt sensor. the 507m looks pretty straight forward. it's got a postive, a ground, and a trigger wire (red, orange, blue)...but the 504m is a little different than guitarplayers model in the original post. mine has a red, yellow, blue, and green wire. according to directions, red is positive, yellow is (-) turn on input, blue is second stage trigger output, and green is first stage output.
my question is how do i wire up the shock sensor? obviously red is power source but what about yellow, blue, and green? where do they go?
i've attaches photos. thanks for your time.
TILT SENSOR (easy)
SHOCK SENSOR
LABELING DIRECTIONS
i got the dei 504m shock sensor and the 507m tilt sensor. the 507m looks pretty straight forward. it's got a postive, a ground, and a trigger wire (red, orange, blue)...but the 504m is a little different than guitarplayers model in the original post. mine has a red, yellow, blue, and green wire. according to directions, red is positive, yellow is (-) turn on input, blue is second stage trigger output, and green is first stage output.
my question is how do i wire up the shock sensor? obviously red is power source but what about yellow, blue, and green? where do they go?
i've attaches photos. thanks for your time.
TILT SENSOR (easy)
SHOCK SENSOR
LABELING DIRECTIONS
#184
couple of questions about this install...
i got the dei 504m shock sensor and the 507m tilt sensor. the 507m looks pretty straight forward. it's got a postive, a ground, and a trigger wire (red, orange, blue)...but the 504m is a little different than guitarplayers model in the original post. mine has a red, yellow, blue, and green wire. according to directions, red is positive, yellow is (-) turn on input, blue is second stage trigger output, and green is first stage output.
my question is how do i wire up the shock sensor? obviously red is power source but what about yellow, blue, and green? where do they go?
i've attaches photos. thanks for your time.
TILT SENSOR (easy)
SHOCK SENSOR
LABELING DIRECTIONS
i got the dei 504m shock sensor and the 507m tilt sensor. the 507m looks pretty straight forward. it's got a postive, a ground, and a trigger wire (red, orange, blue)...but the 504m is a little different than guitarplayers model in the original post. mine has a red, yellow, blue, and green wire. according to directions, red is positive, yellow is (-) turn on input, blue is second stage trigger output, and green is first stage output.
my question is how do i wire up the shock sensor? obviously red is power source but what about yellow, blue, and green? where do they go?
i've attaches photos. thanks for your time.
TILT SENSOR (easy)
SHOCK SENSOR
LABELING DIRECTIONS
#185
Regarding Tilt Sensors: What wire are you tapping into for "(-) Ground When Armed Output or True Ignition Wire"? It looks like either the door lock switch or audio unit are grounded when the alarm is armed but I'm not sure on the exact wire needed. I'll use trial and error today but thought I'd see what you guys thought.
#187
Hello,
I just did this yesterday, unfortunately I'm having the same problem as Viet.
I know my trigger on the hood latch works as I did the test that was mentioned. I did the same test that Viet did with the ground and power source. I'm using the same ground source by the steering column, mini add in fuse. I also soldered the connections instead.
Please help as I'm getting ready to tackle this.
I just did this yesterday, unfortunately I'm having the same problem as Viet.
I know my trigger on the hood latch works as I did the test that was mentioned. I did the same test that Viet did with the ground and power source. I'm using the same ground source by the steering column, mini add in fuse. I also soldered the connections instead.
Please help as I'm getting ready to tackle this.
So I tried installing the shock sensor yesterday and failed miserably. Completely bummed. Spent 5+ hours doing something that is so simple and shouldn't take anymore than 1 hour and still couldn't get it to work.
I got my ground from the screw that holds the "hood release" lever inside the car. The lever located under the fuse box by your ankle. I know this is a good ground because it's the same ground I used to direct/hardwire my radar detector (still have the radar detector installed and still works)
I got my power from the "recline" fuse just like you. I used the same "Mini-add-a-fuse" and added a 3A fuse along with the stock 20A fuse for the recline seat.
For the trigger wire at first I tried tapping in the green w/ black stripe wire located under the fusebox like a member had suggested. I actually opened the under side of the fuse box that exposed ALL the wiring so I could see it better. I used that crimp tool you used (the same red crimp tool that came with the Illuminated door sills).
Test it out, no luck.
The shock sensor unit actually LIGHTS UP RED when it detects a shock. I can kick the floor and it will turn red and turn off. If I hold it and shake it, it will light up red and turn off.
At this point i'm like what's going on? So I check my ground.. Disconnected it from the screw and it doesn't function (NO Red LED when there's a shock). I put it to a different ground and it lights red when there is a shock. I put it back to my original ground and it lights red with a detection of shock. Ground is good.
I check my power (red wire). I unhook the "Mini add-a-fuse" from the recline fuse spot and the shock sensor LED will not light up at all meaning it's not getting any power. I plug the "mini add-a-fuse" back into the same spot and the LED lights up once again when I give it a shake or kick the ground.
So now I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to the trigger (green wire). I assumed that my crimp to the green/black wire in the underhood fusebox was no good. Tried re-crimping it again but EXTRA tight. Still no luck. Finally decided to just ditch the fusebox wire and go to the original plan, the actual hood latch trigger wire that is located at the very front grill.
I used the same red crimp tool and crimped the trigger wire directly to the green/black wire and STILL DOESN'T WORK! I sit inside the car, lock all doors and arm my alarm. Slam my foot on the ground and the shock sensor lights up RED but alarm doesn't go off.. (hood, trunk, windows, doors ALL SHUT)
My factory alarm at this time still works. I sit inside the car and arm my alarm system. As soon as I pull or unlock the car from the inside using the button my alarm goes off (just as it should). When I roll my windows down and lock my car and reach inside the window to unlock the car using the button or pulling on the pin my alarm goes off immediately. Just how the stock alarm is supposed to work.
By this time I'm pretty pissed and decided to just strip my trigger wire about 2 inches so I can try to just take the copper inside the wire and directly touch it to the contact located INSIDE the connector of the hood latch switch (green/black wire located at front grill) and STILL NOTHING.
By now it was 9PM... I started around 4pm.... Pissed as hell I figured I would just get back to it another day... It doesn't stop there...
I disconnected the trigger wire from the connector and plugged the connector back in.
After I did that, I went inside my car to test the factory alarm to see if it still works.... IT DOESN'T GO OFF ANYMORE! I did the same 2 tests. Locked the car completely and tried unlocking the car from the inside using the button and the alarm didn't go off... Rolled my window down partially and locked the car. Reached inside to press the unlock button and still no alarm.... HOWEVER if I press the red button on my keyfob the alarm still triggers...
BTW... I noticed there is like a yellow thing on the shock sensor.. Is that to adjust the sensitivity of it or enable or turn it on? I haven't tampered with it so I don't if that's the cause or not..
I got my ground from the screw that holds the "hood release" lever inside the car. The lever located under the fuse box by your ankle. I know this is a good ground because it's the same ground I used to direct/hardwire my radar detector (still have the radar detector installed and still works)
I got my power from the "recline" fuse just like you. I used the same "Mini-add-a-fuse" and added a 3A fuse along with the stock 20A fuse for the recline seat.
For the trigger wire at first I tried tapping in the green w/ black stripe wire located under the fusebox like a member had suggested. I actually opened the under side of the fuse box that exposed ALL the wiring so I could see it better. I used that crimp tool you used (the same red crimp tool that came with the Illuminated door sills).
Test it out, no luck.
The shock sensor unit actually LIGHTS UP RED when it detects a shock. I can kick the floor and it will turn red and turn off. If I hold it and shake it, it will light up red and turn off.
At this point i'm like what's going on? So I check my ground.. Disconnected it from the screw and it doesn't function (NO Red LED when there's a shock). I put it to a different ground and it lights red when there is a shock. I put it back to my original ground and it lights red with a detection of shock. Ground is good.
I check my power (red wire). I unhook the "Mini add-a-fuse" from the recline fuse spot and the shock sensor LED will not light up at all meaning it's not getting any power. I plug the "mini add-a-fuse" back into the same spot and the LED lights up once again when I give it a shake or kick the ground.
So now I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to the trigger (green wire). I assumed that my crimp to the green/black wire in the underhood fusebox was no good. Tried re-crimping it again but EXTRA tight. Still no luck. Finally decided to just ditch the fusebox wire and go to the original plan, the actual hood latch trigger wire that is located at the very front grill.
I used the same red crimp tool and crimped the trigger wire directly to the green/black wire and STILL DOESN'T WORK! I sit inside the car, lock all doors and arm my alarm. Slam my foot on the ground and the shock sensor lights up RED but alarm doesn't go off.. (hood, trunk, windows, doors ALL SHUT)
My factory alarm at this time still works. I sit inside the car and arm my alarm system. As soon as I pull or unlock the car from the inside using the button my alarm goes off (just as it should). When I roll my windows down and lock my car and reach inside the window to unlock the car using the button or pulling on the pin my alarm goes off immediately. Just how the stock alarm is supposed to work.
By this time I'm pretty pissed and decided to just strip my trigger wire about 2 inches so I can try to just take the copper inside the wire and directly touch it to the contact located INSIDE the connector of the hood latch switch (green/black wire located at front grill) and STILL NOTHING.
By now it was 9PM... I started around 4pm.... Pissed as hell I figured I would just get back to it another day... It doesn't stop there...
I disconnected the trigger wire from the connector and plugged the connector back in.
After I did that, I went inside my car to test the factory alarm to see if it still works.... IT DOESN'T GO OFF ANYMORE! I did the same 2 tests. Locked the car completely and tried unlocking the car from the inside using the button and the alarm didn't go off... Rolled my window down partially and locked the car. Reached inside to press the unlock button and still no alarm.... HOWEVER if I press the red button on my keyfob the alarm still triggers...
BTW... I noticed there is like a yellow thing on the shock sensor.. Is that to adjust the sensitivity of it or enable or turn it on? I haven't tampered with it so I don't if that's the cause or not..
#189
^ Yes Sir I knew that, for some odd reason the trigger source under the fuse box didn't work for me. So I just used the one from the hood latch. Its working now.
Thank you OP and everyone that contributed.
Thank you OP and everyone that contributed.
#191
Race Director
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#192
takin care of Business in
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I have a brand new shock sensor if someone needs it, hit me up....
#197
Race Director
Thread Starter
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Hey guys (Thanh)...
What are your thoughts on this? Could be a good addition to the in cabin for security, no?
I'm wondering if it'd work the same with oem alarm.
Amazon.com: Directed Electronics 506T I.T. Audio Sensor: Electronics
What are your thoughts on this? Could be a good addition to the in cabin for security, no?
I'm wondering if it'd work the same with oem alarm.
Amazon.com: Directed Electronics 506T I.T. Audio Sensor: Electronics
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rockstar143 (11-05-2013)
#199
Race Director
It should work fine. It works great with my Clifford. I mounted it at the base of the driver's side A-pillar, pointing toward all the breakable glass (highly unlikely someone will break the windshield):
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rockstar143 (11-05-2013)