[DIY] Add some security - Shock Sensors to Factory Alarm
#121
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VIET !!!
you mah man !!!
thanks for that info dude....i have to be very careful as the brialle 11 lb-er has only 350 some CCA's LOL....
so yeah gonna install this tonight
finally, guys with isimple, why dont you reroute the power cable to the ignition switch ? thats how i have my stuff in the car....
you mah man !!!
thanks for that info dude....i have to be very careful as the brialle 11 lb-er has only 350 some CCA's LOL....
so yeah gonna install this tonight
finally, guys with isimple, why dont you reroute the power cable to the ignition switch ? thats how i have my stuff in the car....
#122
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Good luck on the install!
The iSimple doesnt have a power wire lol
It just has a harness that connects to the back of the radio
The iSimple doesnt have a power wire lol
It just has a harness that connects to the back of the radio
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^^^ and the harness has a power wire ? also there is a constant 12V to the radio for memory and an ignition to the radio....so just pop the wire from the constant 12 and to the ignition
done and done
done and done
#124
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Wow you are the man.
That should be my weekend project.
I hate how it charges 24/7. That cant be good for the car battery or ipod battery.
Im also lazy to unplug the ipod and plug it back in everytime I drive or get out of the car.
That should be my weekend project.
I hate how it charges 24/7. That cant be good for the car battery or ipod battery.
Im also lazy to unplug the ipod and plug it back in everytime I drive or get out of the car.
#125
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^^^ i understand and hence i mentioned it....
let me know if you want the color codes of the wires....i have my dash disassembled and will get you the color codes of the wires which are constantly hot and wires which are hot when you hit the ignition
let me know if you want the color codes of the wires....i have my dash disassembled and will get you the color codes of the wires which are constantly hot and wires which are hot when you hit the ignition
#126
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Sucks for you guys lol I bring my iPod everywhere with me, I constantly unplug it whenever I get out of the car. One less thing for some a-hole to steal.
#127
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^^^ thats why they are adding the shock sensors
#128
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Sweet thanks man.
I'll have to find the power wire for the isimple harness.
I leave my ipod in the car because i bought it for 40 bucks off my friend and i use my phone for music elsewhere.
I'll have to find the power wire for the isimple harness.
I leave my ipod in the car because i bought it for 40 bucks off my friend and i use my phone for music elsewhere.
#129
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Yeah I know Anil but just because you have an alarm doesn't mean people are going to mess with it. If it's laying out in the open and all it takes is a window smash and grab they'll try it.
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I feel you bro....
i used to tell my ex, if you are going to leave your purse/iphone/ipod/whatever open on the seat, people are going to try to steal it....put it under the seat or in the trunk.....
but the shock sensor will help, as when someone hits your window really hard the alarm will go off and he might make a run for it....whereas in stock form the alarm wont go off and he will try and steal the stuff, is what i meant....
i used to tell my ex, if you are going to leave your purse/iphone/ipod/whatever open on the seat, people are going to try to steal it....put it under the seat or in the trunk.....
but the shock sensor will help, as when someone hits your window really hard the alarm will go off and he might make a run for it....whereas in stock form the alarm wont go off and he will try and steal the stuff, is what i meant....
#132
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I'm just gonna get a gatling gun mounted on the roof and if they set the alarm off they have 5 seconds to RUN.
#133
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My iPod is always under my armrest, so my music setup is pretty much invisible.
I picture it kind of like having a car with a HDD.
I just have music/the ipod in my car at all times and it's invisible lol
I picture it kind of like having a car with a HDD.
I just have music/the ipod in my car at all times and it's invisible lol
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^^^ LOL....just like i treat my VSA button as the GTR RACE switch....i keep it pressed for a second LOL....everytime....hoping something else will happen
but yeah i still wudnt keep it on charge all the time as it kills both batteries (ipod + car)
but yeah i still wudnt keep it on charge all the time as it kills both batteries (ipod + car)
#135
ah man i been gone for a week and it seem like i missed a darn lot... but to chim in on my tl i have the tilt sensor which i believe is a MUST HAVE and i have the shock sensor. the 507m i think but im starting to look at the 508D it seem like it much much more better than the 507. as many of u guys may know the 507 take a kinda medium impact for it to go off, and it look like the 508d goes off with a low impact..
#136
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The 508d is a proximity sensor.
The 507m is a tilt sensor.
Both have their own purposes
The 507m is a tilt sensor.
Both have their own purposes
#137
acutally i just realize that the 508 just goes off based on motion so i think i might just add this. i was reading a review and some one with a honda S2000 said" Have this installed in my S2000 convertible. The module intself sits right below the center console behind the cup holder." and it the same price as a tilt sensor it under 30 dollars. so far i paid 12 for my shock sensor, 20 for my tilt and im thinking of ordering this sensor off ebay for $23
#138
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acutally i just realize that the 508 just goes off based on motion so i think i might just add this. i was reading a review and some one with a honda S2000 said" Have this installed in my S2000 convertible. The module intself sits right below the center console behind the cup holder." and it the same price as a tilt sensor it under 30 dollars. so far i paid 12 for my shock sensor, 20 for my tilt and im thinking of ordering this sensor off ebay for $23
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^^^ thats actually an awesome idea J...just have a hub or some spot in there where all the sensors are running
#141
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^yeah J if you end up doing that please post pics/materials used. i'm anxious to do this mod (tilt/shock sensor) fairly soon and i'd like to do it once and do it right.
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^^^ i think the tilt sensor particularly needs to be well fit on a flat surface....to detect tilt....
#143
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^makes sense.
i'll wait for a DIY so i don't muff it up.
i'll wait for a DIY so i don't muff it up.
#144
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Thanks fellas...yeah, if I do, I'll document, as usual.
The tilt sensor though...probably SHOULD be flat...but doesn't have to be, from what I read, when you arm car, it calibrates to how it's sitting at the time (like if you were to park on a hill etc).
J.
The tilt sensor though...probably SHOULD be flat...but doesn't have to be, from what I read, when you arm car, it calibrates to how it's sitting at the time (like if you were to park on a hill etc).
J.
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^^^ aaah....now thats neat !!! me likey !!!
i might get the tilt when i get better rims
i might get the tilt when i get better rims
#146
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I can confirm that once you park your car the tilt sensor will recalibrate each time.
That way the sensor still works and such if you are parked on an incline.
That way the sensor still works and such if you are parked on an incline.
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^^^ hahaha my dumbass was thinking tilt as in side to side....i didnt even think of front/back tilt LOL....
so yeah seems like a pretty awesome unit....and am thinking the install would be the same so just run 1 wire to the hood latch and tap this unit onto the same wire....
EDIT: GP sorry i forgot the get the color codes for ya bro....will get it for you later today....
so yeah seems like a pretty awesome unit....and am thinking the install would be the same so just run 1 wire to the hood latch and tap this unit onto the same wire....
EDIT: GP sorry i forgot the get the color codes for ya bro....will get it for you later today....
#148
My tilt sensors what I did was . I got a zip lock bag and puT the tilt sensor inside and than I got black electrical tape and wrapped the zip lock bad with the sensor inside like a mummy lol. And than I used tie straps and tie strapped it to the reinforcement bar that's behind the bumper. And I used the hood as my tigger wire since it literally 6 inches away from the reinforcement bar ...
#149
Tilt sense hAd the wire that u can put in and out to adjust how high the car goes before It goes off. I left it at default which I think is 1 inch .. Don't qoUte me on that tho whatever the default setting was that's where I left it at . I think it Adjusts from 1-3 inches ..
#150
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So I tried installing the shock sensor yesterday and failed miserably. Completely bummed. Spent 5+ hours doing something that is so simple and shouldn't take anymore than 1 hour and still couldn't get it to work.
I got my ground from the screw that holds the "hood release" lever inside the car. The lever located under the fuse box by your ankle. I know this is a good ground because it's the same ground I used to direct/hardwire my radar detector (still have the radar detector installed and still works)
I got my power from the "recline" fuse just like you. I used the same "Mini-add-a-fuse" and added a 3A fuse along with the stock 20A fuse for the recline seat.
For the trigger wire at first I tried tapping in the green w/ black stripe wire located under the fusebox like a member had suggested. I actually opened the under side of the fuse box that exposed ALL the wiring so I could see it better. I used that crimp tool you used (the same red crimp tool that came with the Illuminated door sills).
Test it out, no luck.
The shock sensor unit actually LIGHTS UP RED when it detects a shock. I can kick the floor and it will turn red and turn off. If I hold it and shake it, it will light up red and turn off.
At this point i'm like what's going on? So I check my ground.. Disconnected it from the screw and it doesn't function (NO Red LED when there's a shock). I put it to a different ground and it lights red when there is a shock. I put it back to my original ground and it lights red with a detection of shock. Ground is good.
I check my power (red wire). I unhook the "Mini add-a-fuse" from the recline fuse spot and the shock sensor LED will not light up at all meaning it's not getting any power. I plug the "mini add-a-fuse" back into the same spot and the LED lights up once again when I give it a shake or kick the ground.
So now I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to the trigger (green wire). I assumed that my crimp to the green/black wire in the underhood fusebox was no good. Tried re-crimping it again but EXTRA tight. Still no luck. Finally decided to just ditch the fusebox wire and go to the original plan, the actual hood latch trigger wire that is located at the very front grill.
I used the same red crimp tool and crimped the trigger wire directly to the green/black wire and STILL DOESN'T WORK! I sit inside the car, lock all doors and arm my alarm. Slam my foot on the ground and the shock sensor lights up RED but alarm doesn't go off.. (hood, trunk, windows, doors ALL SHUT)
My factory alarm at this time still works. I sit inside the car and arm my alarm system. As soon as I pull or unlock the car from the inside using the button my alarm goes off (just as it should). When I roll my windows down and lock my car and reach inside the window to unlock the car using the button or pulling on the pin my alarm goes off immediately. Just how the stock alarm is supposed to work.
By this time I'm pretty pissed and decided to just strip my trigger wire about 2 inches so I can try to just take the copper inside the wire and directly touch it to the contact located INSIDE the connector of the hood latch switch (green/black wire located at front grill) and STILL NOTHING.
By now it was 9PM... I started around 4pm.... Pissed as hell I figured I would just get back to it another day... It doesn't stop there...
I disconnected the trigger wire from the connector and plugged the connector back in.
After I did that, I went inside my car to test the factory alarm to see if it still works.... IT DOESN'T GO OFF ANYMORE! I did the same 2 tests. Locked the car completely and tried unlocking the car from the inside using the button and the alarm didn't go off... Rolled my window down partially and locked the car. Reached inside to press the unlock button and still no alarm.... HOWEVER if I press the red button on my keyfob the alarm still triggers...
BTW... I noticed there is like a yellow thing on the shock sensor.. Is that to adjust the sensitivity of it or enable or turn it on? I haven't tampered with it so I don't if that's the cause or not..
I got my ground from the screw that holds the "hood release" lever inside the car. The lever located under the fuse box by your ankle. I know this is a good ground because it's the same ground I used to direct/hardwire my radar detector (still have the radar detector installed and still works)
I got my power from the "recline" fuse just like you. I used the same "Mini-add-a-fuse" and added a 3A fuse along with the stock 20A fuse for the recline seat.
For the trigger wire at first I tried tapping in the green w/ black stripe wire located under the fusebox like a member had suggested. I actually opened the under side of the fuse box that exposed ALL the wiring so I could see it better. I used that crimp tool you used (the same red crimp tool that came with the Illuminated door sills).
Test it out, no luck.
The shock sensor unit actually LIGHTS UP RED when it detects a shock. I can kick the floor and it will turn red and turn off. If I hold it and shake it, it will light up red and turn off.
At this point i'm like what's going on? So I check my ground.. Disconnected it from the screw and it doesn't function (NO Red LED when there's a shock). I put it to a different ground and it lights red when there is a shock. I put it back to my original ground and it lights red with a detection of shock. Ground is good.
I check my power (red wire). I unhook the "Mini add-a-fuse" from the recline fuse spot and the shock sensor LED will not light up at all meaning it's not getting any power. I plug the "mini add-a-fuse" back into the same spot and the LED lights up once again when I give it a shake or kick the ground.
So now I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to the trigger (green wire). I assumed that my crimp to the green/black wire in the underhood fusebox was no good. Tried re-crimping it again but EXTRA tight. Still no luck. Finally decided to just ditch the fusebox wire and go to the original plan, the actual hood latch trigger wire that is located at the very front grill.
I used the same red crimp tool and crimped the trigger wire directly to the green/black wire and STILL DOESN'T WORK! I sit inside the car, lock all doors and arm my alarm. Slam my foot on the ground and the shock sensor lights up RED but alarm doesn't go off.. (hood, trunk, windows, doors ALL SHUT)
My factory alarm at this time still works. I sit inside the car and arm my alarm system. As soon as I pull or unlock the car from the inside using the button my alarm goes off (just as it should). When I roll my windows down and lock my car and reach inside the window to unlock the car using the button or pulling on the pin my alarm goes off immediately. Just how the stock alarm is supposed to work.
By this time I'm pretty pissed and decided to just strip my trigger wire about 2 inches so I can try to just take the copper inside the wire and directly touch it to the contact located INSIDE the connector of the hood latch switch (green/black wire located at front grill) and STILL NOTHING.
By now it was 9PM... I started around 4pm.... Pissed as hell I figured I would just get back to it another day... It doesn't stop there...
I disconnected the trigger wire from the connector and plugged the connector back in.
After I did that, I went inside my car to test the factory alarm to see if it still works.... IT DOESN'T GO OFF ANYMORE! I did the same 2 tests. Locked the car completely and tried unlocking the car from the inside using the button and the alarm didn't go off... Rolled my window down partially and locked the car. Reached inside to press the unlock button and still no alarm.... HOWEVER if I press the red button on my keyfob the alarm still triggers...
BTW... I noticed there is like a yellow thing on the shock sensor.. Is that to adjust the sensitivity of it or enable or turn it on? I haven't tampered with it so I don't if that's the cause or not..
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 05-17-2012 at 09:29 PM.
#151
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Sorry to hear!
Something tells me your hood latch wire is no good =(
You can do a test though!
Open up your hood, and try locking your doors/arming the alarm with the beep.
The car can't arm the alarm if your hood is open, therefore won't beep.
If your alarm arms and beeps when your hood is open, something's wrong with the hood sensor wire.
Something tells me your hood latch wire is no good =(
You can do a test though!
Open up your hood, and try locking your doors/arming the alarm with the beep.
The car can't arm the alarm if your hood is open, therefore won't beep.
If your alarm arms and beeps when your hood is open, something's wrong with the hood sensor wire.
#153
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#156
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Twist it all the way to the right. I tried just using a t-tap to get signal from under the hood latch wire...it's so small that I almost cut off that wire accidentally...decided I know better for something like this so I actually ended up cutting it and soldering my connection there.
Also, before starting, I armed my car with windows down, waited 30 seconds and popped hood to set it off to make sure it was working. That's your starting point since that is what determines signal.
Remove everything, check ALL your fuses now...and get it to where your factory alarm works and gets tripped and start over again.
You'll get this...
Also, before starting, I armed my car with windows down, waited 30 seconds and popped hood to set it off to make sure it was working. That's your starting point since that is what determines signal.
Remove everything, check ALL your fuses now...and get it to where your factory alarm works and gets tripped and start over again.
You'll get this...
#157
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Twist it all the way to the right. I tried just using a t-tap to get signal from under the hood latch wire...it's so small that I almost cut off that wire accidentally...decided I know better for something like this so I actually ended up cutting it and soldering my connection there.
Also, before starting, I armed my car with windows down, waited 30 seconds and popped hood to set it off to make sure it was working. That's your starting point since that is what determines signal.
Remove everything, check ALL your fuses now...and get it to where your factory alarm works and gets tripped and start over again.
You'll get this...
Also, before starting, I armed my car with windows down, waited 30 seconds and popped hood to set it off to make sure it was working. That's your starting point since that is what determines signal.
Remove everything, check ALL your fuses now...and get it to where your factory alarm works and gets tripped and start over again.
You'll get this...
Also how did you remove the insulation after stripping it so you could have room to solder it?
#158
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I have a stripping tool (have used it to make many, many 1 dollar bills )
and a razor blade...BUT
to solder properly and put heatshrink on...go ahead and CUT the wire altogether...and then, put your heatshrink on...then wrap wires around each other, THEN solder then heatshrink, then wrap in electrical tape...looks totally stock.
Get your oem one working first...remove the shock sensor from your equation...
Also, I did NOT run wires into car...I grounded in engine bay, I stripped back red (didn't even put inline fuse 'yet', might later...and just pressed it into the "horn" fuse in engine bay fuse box). Had power always...i checked...and obviously trigger is in there too...figured if the sensor would sense impact in the car, it'll sense it anywhere it's mounted in the car.
I'd HIGHLY recommend you pick up a test light, my friend...if you're going to be doing electrical work, it's the best $5 you can spend...if you use your module to determine good ground and good power etc...you're bound to blow fuses or the device.
A test light will let you touch your ground point and touch your power and KNOW that you've got juice and it's a good ground etc...
and a razor blade...BUT
to solder properly and put heatshrink on...go ahead and CUT the wire altogether...and then, put your heatshrink on...then wrap wires around each other, THEN solder then heatshrink, then wrap in electrical tape...looks totally stock.
Get your oem one working first...remove the shock sensor from your equation...
Also, I did NOT run wires into car...I grounded in engine bay, I stripped back red (didn't even put inline fuse 'yet', might later...and just pressed it into the "horn" fuse in engine bay fuse box). Had power always...i checked...and obviously trigger is in there too...figured if the sensor would sense impact in the car, it'll sense it anywhere it's mounted in the car.
I'd HIGHLY recommend you pick up a test light, my friend...if you're going to be doing electrical work, it's the best $5 you can spend...if you use your module to determine good ground and good power etc...you're bound to blow fuses or the device.
A test light will let you touch your ground point and touch your power and KNOW that you've got juice and it's a good ground etc...
#159
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VIET for stripping what i do is use an old knife which has no blade left on it....so it cut thro slowly and doesnt cut the wires....
i absolutely HATE crimps and t-taps and any of that....i strip the wire, connect the new one, solder on it, use some electrical tape over it (i use the rubber insulator if possible)....
i agree with the responses on here....1st you gotta try to see if the hood wire is working and then go from there
i absolutely HATE crimps and t-taps and any of that....i strip the wire, connect the new one, solder on it, use some electrical tape over it (i use the rubber insulator if possible)....
i agree with the responses on here....1st you gotta try to see if the hood wire is working and then go from there