grappler171

So there is a private seller asking $14,500 for a 2016 sport hybrid with 89000 miles. Says it’s in good condition, I bought a carfax for the vin# and it’s a clean title with a pretty decent service history. Carfax says $20,100 retail value and $11,600 trade in while KBB shows higher than that. Guy doesn’t seem sketchy per se, but seems reluctant about selling the car. He talks the car up, states he could only sell to someone who will appreciate the car, but he needs a truck or suv. Told him I test drove a 2017, because I’ve never driven one before and he asked me why I didn’t buy that one. Just curious if anyone has any input. By the way we are 700 miles away so I’d be flying to buy the car. And he hasn’t answered my questions as to how he wants to get paid ie: cashiers check or wire transfer or 3rd party escrow. Anyone purchased private seller before? Thanks in advance.

thoiboi

@rockstar143 your time to shine

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Skip it.
Any time someone tries to force HOW the payment will occur. Run for the hills.

grappler171

Well just never gave an answer as to how they wanted to do the transaction once I asked.

kareshi

Maybe he's a newbie as well? But if you are in doubt, then don't go for it. Don't let FOMO to become regrets

phile

states he could only sell to someone who would appreciate the car? That statement alone establishes a further desire for the product that you’re already looking into. I wouldn’t move on with this deal.

hondamore

My rather obvious "old man advice" is this:
When the little voice in the back of your head is telling you that something just isn't right, then either walk away from the deal or do 10X the due diligence before proceeding. In either case, you should be constantly asking yourself if the risks that you are perceiving associated with the deal are worth the benefits of the deal.

Good luck in your search for an RLX Sport Hybrid. Nearly 9 years in and I still love mine.

Acure4RDX

Just ask him if a Cashier's check is OK. Give the person a "this or that" proposition. If you ddo not get an answer then he cnnnot get paid. They can always call the finamcial institution (Bank) to confirm validity of the check -just make sure the time is right forthe bank to be open..
Take the check with you, check out the car and then, and only then, sign the check over to him. There are other precautions as well. For instance meet at a pblic place or in a police station parking lot, Take a cellphone photo of the seller's driver license. Make sure the registration is correct and valid. Some people may think that if you invest in a 700 trip one is more apt (self pressured) to buy. Also, if you drive to the destination you could have another person with you and that will help.

grappler171

yeah I have asked him twice how he would prefer to be paid and he never answered that exact question. I told him for what he is asking if the car is in as good of shape as he says I’m not going to haggle and just need to know how he wants to do the deal and figure out a good day for him so I can book a flight etc. He just acts like he is delaying a deal. I gave him my name and #, he must have called because he asked why it didn’t work, and it’s because I fat fingered and gave one digit off. I corrected the # and he read the message, but hasn’t replied for over a day now. Either we both are skeptical of each other, or he just doesn’t want to sell the car. I appreciate the feedback all. I’m continuing my search.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like too much beating around the bush. I would personally move on.

When I sold my car to a buyer out of state it was pretty simple and straight forward. Constant communication that was clear and precise. Replies to all requests of photos/videos/video chat. Copies of drivers license's shared between both parties. A non-refundable deposit of $500 to hold the car, made thru paypal or other, amount went towards the price of car if they go thru with it. Details of how payment will be handled. Cash and certified bank check. Picture of title in hand. Buyers flight information so I can pick up at the airport.

As mentioned above, both parties want something out of this. If one party isn't putting in the effort to make the deal. It isn't worth it. There will be another one.

rlx015

+1 for skipping it...
My wild guess would be that the current owner likely had it recently checked, and someone may have scared him with his hybrid battery hitting the 8-year mark, and what the cost would be if it were to fail, blah, blah, blah...
Would I buy an 8-year-old car with a hybrid battery? I would not... For the money you are looking to spend, you should stay conventional ICE, and my recommended car to you in Acura realm would be Acura TL 2013-2014 range, possibly w AWD, if not then FWD... Your pricing puts you at the right place to find a solid clean 1-owner one. It will certainly outlast the '16 RLX SH in my opinion (but I certainly can be wrong on this too) ... I am biased towards it too because my wife drives one and she loves it...

grappler171

yes I’ve moved on, laughably his last reply was and I quote “if you had a sport hybrid would you sell it?” Anyway he obviously has no intention of selling after posting it for sale. I’ve made an offer on a 2017 sport hybrid w/ advance. It’s as much as I want to pay so I can only hope. Thanks you to all for your insights.

grappler171

as I said above I prefer to upgrade to a sport hybrid, but I have my eyes on a 2012 RL advance with under 100k miles as well. I’m still driving my 2011 RL tech and it’s a great car so I’ll pass that on to my daughter as she just turned 16. But I’m about to do it’s 2nd timing belt job at 210,000 and feeling less excited about another RL instead of upgrading. We will see.

rlx015

Not sure where you mentioned your preference of upgrading to the Sport-hybrid, I may have missed it... and for sure, you know your situation the best. The 2011 RL is a solid car for sure - and a great hand-down because you know safety is there besides the reliability. Given what you currently drive, I would take back the suggestion of the TL FWD/AWD - as that would be a step down... so, if you are still interested in Acura realm models, SH seems to be a natural choice (without jumping into SUV category).

Good luck

thoiboi

That's annoying,

if he put a flaky post like that on here, it would have been closed, sounds like he's just fishing for compliments or something idiotic...