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Gave it some gas on a turn uphill then was presented with "Electric Parking Brake Problem" and "Emissions System Problem. Scanner shows a P2652 "B Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On Bank 1". Was making a rough noise near the exhaust and would then shift hard. Very slow acceleration until 3rd gear. Next morning, error code is still there but seemed to drive well around the block. Maybe the roughness will comeback after the car warms up. Supposedly this controls the oil flow to the upper engine which I do not want to put at risk so i'm not driving it at the moment.
Sound's like a VTEC component as you reference.Here is what I have found doing a search of P2652 error code description. I would call Acura parts for part#. :
Decided to replace sensors for both bank 1 and 2
37250-5A2-A01 Switch Assembly, Valve Timing Oil Pressure
And also
37240-R70-A04 Switch Assembly, Oil Pressure
Thankfully all are located under the engine cover and easily accessible.
Will update once parts are replaced.
Originally Posted by demosan
Sound's like a VTEC component as you reference.Here is what I have found doing a search of P2652 error code description. I would call Acura parts for part#. :
I would suggest if your scanner allows you to erase the error codes to do so and see if the errors reappear to confirm hard failures of those same sensors. Those sensors provide inputs to ECM and I am always suspect when I get multiple error codes for a what logically is a single sensor failure"problem" . Having two sensors go bad simultaneously may save you replacing unnecessary components. Your, call and good luck !! Demosan
Decided to replace sensors for both bank 1 and 2
37250-5A2-A01 Switch Assembly, Valve Timing Oil Pressure
And also
37240-R70-A04 Switch Assembly, Oil Pressure
Thankfully all are located under the engine cover and easily accessible.
When I drove around yesterday, the car was still going into limp mode each time I started the engine. This morning I unplugged the oil pressure switch and drove around for about 10 minutes, then plugged the switch back in and drove around for another 10 minutes. I didn't see the engine go into limp mode so I cleared the engine codes. Not sure if unplugging the switch fixed the issue or just giving the car time to cool off. Weirdly, when the Check Emission System light was on, the car exhaust smelled very strongly of gasoline. After clearing the engine codes, the car exhaust smelled more normal. Going to see if the P2652 error comes back up before I try replacing any switches.
For reference, here's the front and rear switches jpadilla was talking about in a 2016 RDX:
Thanks for the pictures koopa! I ended up here from google searching for the same error on my 2016 MDX. I was able to unplug and check the connections on the front switch, but lordy--how did you unplug the ones in the back? I can barely get my fingers around the plug, let alone press down the tab to unlatch it. Any trick or tips?
Originally Posted by koopa
Thanks jpadilla!
When I drove around yesterday, the car was still going into limp mode each time I started the engine. This morning I unplugged the oil pressure switch and drove around for about 10 minutes, then plugged the switch back in and drove around for another 10 minutes. I didn't see the engine go into limp mode so I cleared the engine codes. Not sure if unplugging the switch fixed the issue or just giving the car time to cool off. Weirdly, when the Check Emission System light was on, the car exhaust smelled very strongly of gasoline. After clearing the engine codes, the car exhaust smelled more normal. Going to see if the P2652 error comes back up before I try replacing any switches.
Thanks for the pictures koopa! I ended up here from google searching for the same error on my 2016 MDX. I was able to unplug and check the connections on the front switch, but lordy--how did you unplug the ones in the back? I can barely get my fingers around the plug, let alone press down the tab to unlatch it. Any trick or tips?
i used needle nose pliers to grab/press the plastic latches on the sides of the connector and pull it out. just need to be careful not to use too much force on the latches because they can break off somewhat easily
Thanks for the pictures koopa! I ended up here from google searching for the same error on my 2016 MDX. I was able to unplug and check the connections on the front switch, but lordy--how did you unplug the ones in the back? I can barely get my fingers around the plug, let alone press down the tab to unlatch it. Any trick or tips?
I used 90° needle nose pliers... Only requires gental tug