When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Personally I would try to return it. The stock hitch seems to be fine and many people use it for carrying bikes and such, but there are far more accessories for a 2” hitch - more bike racks, cargo racks, and of course actual trailers. Sure there are adapters but they add length and just seem cumbersome. Also I wonder if they cause more strain because of the leverage.
BTW I believe the tongue weight limit is 150 lbs, so watch out when carrying your 220 lb generator.
--------------------------------------
Newbie here. Just got my 2020 RDX and the dealer installed OEM hitch. I plan to tow a small boat (i.e., less than 1,500 lbs). I see that Draw-Tite has a ball mount that will fit 1.25 receiver. Shouldn't be a problem. I also saw this adapter on the shelf at WalMart, with plenty of weight capacity.
Hello all, new member here. I am shopping an RDX for my parents - I’ve finally convinced them to consolidate down to one vehicle, from an Ridgeline and CR-V, and the RDX is the one. They want a trailer hitch mostly to use a hitch basket to carry their gas cans (for the lawn equipment) to the gas station. When I got a price from the dealer for the trailer hitch installed I almost fell out of my chair. They want $2,164 to install the trailer hitch and harness on the 2023 Advance. Now I’m thinking about skipping the harness and just installing the hitch myself. I seriously doubt they’ll ever tow a trailer with it, but they will probably want it equipped to do so just in case. Just wanted to share my astonishment and get some thoughts. Thanks!
I would at least consider the after-markets. We were at Costco a few days ago and saw an RDX with a 'Curt'....( think that's what it is called) and I was surprised how good it looked. At first I thought it was an Acura hitch, but did a double take and saw the name. I believe they are completely trustworthy and of good quality...and would cost a whole lot less. Sure, the Acura hitch looks the best, but these aftermarkets are close behind for a lot less money.
If you seriously doubt they’ll ever tow a trailer with it, I would skip the wiring harness. Installing the harness requires the removal of a lot of interior panels, and it just doesn’t seem worth it. Nothing screams “add on” hitch like seeing the way the harness attaches to the hitch. Besides, the RDX isn’t much of a tow vehicle, for the times a trailer would need to be towed, they could rent a truck.
The hitch itself is very easy to install. Make sure you get the trim piece for a clean looking install.
Great thread (took about 2 days to get through it...). Just came from the auto show and I really liked the RDX. Currently have a 4Runner and looking to get more of a highway cruiser and I do not want an MDX (had a previous gen... this MDX gen just too big for our needs).
One requirement for us is a bike hauler. I have multiple 1UP racks, but the one we normally use is the double with two bikes in the 26-50lbs range. The 1UP double rack is 46lbs, bike one is 28 and the ebike is 52. Yes... that's under the 150lbs OEM tongue weight, but it's close and hitting some of the roads where we live can put stress on the hitch.
I've read many posts folks going with an aftermarket hitch that states a higher tongue rating. From my research on prior vehicles it's the vehicle tongue/tow rating that matters not what the hitch is rated at. Plus, I'm not overly thrilled with the low hanging aftermarket hitch and unfortunately, StealthHitches do not have an Acura model. Yes, my single 1UP with just my bike is a no brainer, but with the double and the wife's bike I'm starting to creep up on that 150lbs tongue rating.
My question is the OEM 150lbs tongue rating static weight or dynamic? I do not want to be traveling to a trailhead going 60mph hitting a dip and having to constantly watch my rearview fearing for the worst.
Scott, you’re right, you can put a class IV hitch on an RDX and it wouldn’t change the tongue weight rating for the vehicle. I would think the engineers took into account dynamic weight when they developed the tongue weight rating, you’d have dynamic weight with a trailer as well.
The pro side of the OEM hitch is it tucks nicely into the bumper cover when you add the hitch fascia. The con side is it is a 1 1/4” hitch. I’m not sure if your bike rack is 2”, 1 1/4” or can fit both. You can always use an adaptor, but they usually state somewhere on the adaptor that it cuts the tongue rating by half.
Scott, you’re right, you can put a class IV hitch on an RDX and it wouldn’t change the tongue weight rating for the vehicle. I would think the engineers took into account dynamic weight when they developed the tongue weight rating, you’d have dynamic weight with a trailer as well.
The pro side of the OEM hitch is it tucks nicely into the bumper cover when you add the hitch fascia. The con side is it is a 1 1/4” hitch. I’m not sure if your bike rack is 2”, 1 1/4” or can fit both. You can always use an adaptor, but they usually state somewhere on the adaptor that it cuts the tongue rating by half.
Appreciate the insight! And the 1UP rack I have is interchangeable between 1.25 and 2 inch. So I'm good with that. And totally agree with your "tucks nicely" statement.
Thanks,
it looks like the didn't use the correct A-Spec rear lip.... 08L92-TJB-200C
Question on this. I've been back to the dealership twice now regarding this piece 08L92-TJB-200C after getting the OEM hitch installed as part of my deal for the RDX. I have an Aspec/Adv and he showed me on his parts computer this part is not listed for a 2022 Aspec/Adv (only showed 2019-2021). Yet... I've seen this part on 2022 Aspec vehicles.. just can't confirm if they are also the Adv model. Not sure what the differece would be though. Unless there has something to do with the kick to open hatch feature (which I don't use anyways). I'm headed back for a third time after I asked for them to order this specific part# 08L92-TJB-200C and try to fit it to my vehicle. I mean it's not a big deal... but I'm also particular about my vehicles and hey... I think this has a better appearance on the Aspec model. Can anyone confirm this does indeed fit the Aspec/Adv model with OEM hitch? Thanks,
The short sensor is on the back order and I will be installing Acura oem hitch by myself. Has anyone tried to install original sensor with it?
I know that it doesn't fit but I'm considering cutting plastic and putting wires around the hitch. Would something like this work?
@yvasyliv I know you posted awhile ago but I'm in the same boat. I just purchased the OEM hitch and cover and plan to install myself but the short sensor is on backorder. One of the Acura OEM websites said July 2023, but no clue how true that would be. Were you able to find the replacement short sensor or did you figure out a way to retro fit the original one?
Anyone else have any luck getting their hands on one of these allusive sensors? (I believe Part#: 08L91-TJB-200B)
Anyone even have a photo of what the replacement short sensor looks it?
My first post here and I’m kind of stumped regarding trailer light wiring.
Since this is my first post I’ll add a little background first…..we’ve have a couple used Buick Enclaves prior to our first new car, a 2023 RDX Advance. Our kids are grown and we thought we no longer needed the extra storage, third seat, etc so the RDX for a perfect fit…..except for a week long vacation…. My current solution for this is to pick up an enclosed clamshell type snowmobile trailer. It will fit everything we need and summer is a great time of year to buy one (price wise). They don’t weigh much and most of what we will be carrying is bulky, not heavy. (Boogie boards, sand chairs, etc)
One would think by now someone would have figured out which RDX’s have the 12V provision and which ones do not without removing the rear trim panels but if they have, I haven’t been able to find it. You need to know this in order to purchase the correct harness on Etrailer.com. Fortunately our RDX doesn’t have the automatic rear hatch kick sensor so that one less thing I need to worry about.
There have been numerous posts here and on line regarding hitch installation but I’ve yet to find a good one on wiring. Etrailer says you have to remove the left interior panel to identify which harness you have which is like a 74 step process. I don’t mind doing it for the install but it seems a little extreme to just identify what harness to purchase.
Hi @consulauto - I'm looking at the Kuat Sherpa 2 for my 2023 RDX Aspec/Adv and was wondering if the platform or bike tires get warm or dirty from the exhaust tips? Also, what are your overall thoughts on this rack?
Thanks,
Mike
First post here, don't know if @consulauto got back to BoneHeadGolf about the Sherpa 2. In any case I will jump in in case anyone else is wondering about it!
If you are going with the OEM hitch receiver you will not have a problem with exhaust tips melting things. The Sherpa 2 platform sits well above the exhaust and since the factory receiver protrudes slightly beyond the rear bumper the rack is back a ways as well. This is what the loaded rack looks like on my (Canadian) A-Spec.
Also attaching this image of what it looks like folded up. Just because... I've found images of the white and gray versions in this forum. This is the black version to complete the gallery.
What do I think of this rack? Well I haven't had a hitch mounted rack before - used roof mounts on my previous vehicle - so I can't compare with anything previous. But I'll say this one's a keeper. Just returned from a trip where it was fully loaded (2 bikes) for 500 miles and all is still well with it and the bikes.
@daRthDX welcome to the forum! Great first post and perfect pictures.
I was thinking about the same Acura OEM 1.25" hitch and Black Kuat Sherpa 2.0 1.25" 2-bike rack combo vs. an aftermarket 2" Curt hitch. Although I'd rather have a 2" receiver, I'm leaning towards the 1.25" OEM receiver because the trim cover looks like a cleaner install, I have no plans to tow anything and was concerned about the exhaust hitting the bikes/platform if a 2" hitch lowered the rack height. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions... Any idea if a) your hitch trim cover is part# 08L92-TJB-200E, b) is the rack stable without too much sway and c) does your Canadian RDX Aspec model have an HFA kick sensor and if so, any problems with the HFA or rear sensors when the rack is deployed?
I'm leaning towards the 1.25" OEM receiver because the trim cover looks like a cleaner install, I have no plans to tow anything and was concerned about the exhaust hitting the bikes/platform if a 2" hitch lowered the rack height. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions... Any idea if a) your hitch trim cover is part# 08L92-TJB-200E, b) is the rack stable without too much sway and c) does your Canadian RDX Aspec model have an HFA kick sensor and if so, any problems with the HFA or rear sensors when the rack is deployed?
Regards,
Mike
I went with the OEM receiver partly because of looks as well. Also because I bought this vehicle to have greater ground clearance in the snow. Can take a while for residential streets to get plowed around here and it does not melt on its own until spring! I was not going to sacrifice ground clearance by getting an aftermarket hitch installed below the bumper.
Part number for the trim cover on my 2023 RDX is actually 08L92-TJB-400E. I believe the trim covers changed with the 2022 MY refresh. If you have something in MY 2019-2021 maybe you do need 08L92-TJB-200E. Your dealer will know. (That's where I had this installed - I know some here have done it themselves but I'm getting old for that kind of work...)
I saw a video review somewhere of one of these racks where they ran it over a parking lot with speed bumps to check the movement. If you find it you can see for yourself and judge accordingly. Things definitely do move around as you're driving, but much of the movement is due to some give where the bikes' attachment is concerned, so as not to transfer all the force through the hitch and to the suspension. What gives me confidence: 1) As I look through the rear view mirror in a smooth part of the ride the bikes are in the same position as when I loaded them, 2) the cam tightens to the same place in its travel every time and can't be tightened further, no matter how many times I check the tightness. So any wobbliness has no after effects and just serves to deter tailgaters.
The kick sensor... Sigh. Yes I had one and asked about replacing it - you have to replace with a different version that's off to one side. The parts desk told me that version had been on back order for two years! So I decided to just do without. I hadn't had the vehicle long enough to miss it anyway. Even though according to the sales guy I "got one that works" (interesting hearing that from a salesperson...)
You have to follow the procedure in the manual to turn off the rear parking sensors when the rack is in place. Also since I don't have a kick sensor anymore I disabled its operation in the settings, in case something was left there.
I installed an OEM tow bar with custom plate for the chain hooks since the oem hooks were too much of an eye sore for my taste. Had a local welder do it for me for $50. Looks so much cleaner than the two angled plates sticking out the bottom IMO.
My first post here and I’m kind of stumped regarding trailer light wiring.
Since this is my first post I’ll add a little background first…..we’ve have a couple used Buick Enclaves prior to our first new car, a 2023 RDX Advance. Our kids are grown and we thought we no longer needed the extra storage, third seat, etc so the RDX for a perfect fit…..except for a week long vacation…. My current solution for this is to pick up an enclosed clamshell type snowmobile trailer. It will fit everything we need and summer is a great time of year to buy one (price wise). They don’t weigh much and most of what we will be carrying is bulky, not heavy. (Boogie boards, sand chairs, etc)
One would think by now someone would have figured out which RDX’s have the 12V provision and which ones do not without removing the rear trim panels but if they have, I haven’t been able to find it. You need to know this in order to purchase the correct harness on Etrailer.com. Fortunately our RDX doesn’t have the automatic rear hatch kick sensor so that one less thing I need to worry about.
There have been numerous posts here and on line regarding hitch installation but I’ve yet to find a good one on wiring. Etrailer says you have to remove the left interior panel to identify which harness you have which is like a 74 step process. I don’t mind doing it for the install but it seems a little extreme to just identify what harness to purchase.
any advice would be appreciated…..
Did you figure it out? What's frustrating to me is that even Acura lists 2 different harness part numbers and I can't tell the difference.
08L91-TJB-200A
08L91-TJB-200
I'm guessing it has to do with whether you have 12V back there ready to use, but I'm not sure how you'd know.
Originally Posted by pqt2020rdx
Just got my CPO '20 Advance RDX and join this forum. I just want to share my experience installing Curt hitch using inner 2 holes set to avoid interference to HFA which came with Advance model. HFA still affect if you attach anything to the hitch and keep it on all the time. Hope it help some of you.
I got hard time removing the pin to move to corner. You might need to google how.
@pqt2020rdx Which harness did you order that came with the mount for the 4 pin connector?
I need the harness with a 4 pin connector and the OEM mount so I can haul a trailer with lights for my motorcycle.
Last edited by Optical Toxin; 05-03-2024 at 01:56 PM.
Did you figure it out? What's frustrating to me is that even Acura lists 2 different harness part numbers and I can't tell the difference.
08L91-TJB-200A
08L91-TJB-200
I'm guessing it has to do with whether you have 12V back there ready to use, but I'm not sure how you'd know.
.
I took mine apart and confirmed it had the 12V provision, which mine did. I suspect all the newer RDX's have this provision.
It didn't take anywhere near as long as I thought it would. I think I took it apart and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. You don't have to remove the side panel, just pull it back
I took mine apart and confirmed it had the 12V provision, which mine did. I suspect all the newer RDX's have this provision.
It didn't take anywhere near as long as I thought it would. I think I took it apart and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. You don't have to remove the side panel, just pull it back
I think this harness can be used if you have the 12V provision or not. If you don't have 12V you have to run fused 12V to the back of the car
Thank you. $100 cheaper than OEM, wow. Between that and the 4 pin plug bracket that was shared, this project is looking less intimidating. Current dilemma I have is the cleaner OEM look and retaining HFA, vs installing an aftermarket option that is stronger and cheaper. Hmmm....
Hi folks, I'm hoping someone can help me with the exact part numbers I need for trailer hitch and trailer hitch cover for my 2020 RDX A-spec.
I was at the dealer yesterday and got these part numbers and price:
Trailer hitch: 08L92-TJB-200, $790 CAD + tax
Trailer hitch garnish cover: 08L92-TJB-400C, $17.99 CAD + tax
Based on my online research, I would need hitch panel cover with part number 08L92-TJB-200C, but this is not included in the dealer's towing package list (see the attached picture from dealer's computer screen), and it's more expensive (online price is $190 CAD) than 400C.
I want to know whether parts ending with 400C and 200C are similar? Probably not, but why the 200C is not listed in any towing package?
Picture from the dealer's computer, 19RDX towing package part numbers
I think you're correct. You need panel cover -200C. Post-2022 refresh the part numbers changed from -200B and -200C to -400D and -400E respectively.
What is this garnish cover -400C that is less than 20 bucks? (+ tax) For that price it might just be the square rubber piece with Acura logo that plugs into the hitch receiver lol
Wondering if there were typos in the data entry for the parts database.
I went back to the dealer and ordered their listing part numbers:
Trailer hitch: 08L92-TJB-200
Trailer hitch garnish cover: 08L92-TJB- 400C
It turned out that -400C is a successor to -200C and they sell it for $16.99 CAD 😳. They had it in stock and I picked it up. But, have to wait for the trailer hitch.
No I really did mean -400D and -400E. I'm going by the change in the two versions of pdf installation instructions for the trailer hitch you can find via searching... One is for application "2019 RDX" and the other for application "2022 RDX". The latter has -400D and -400E for the part numbers. I'd have to dig through my receipts but pretty sure I got a 400E. As did others in the images above appear to get 400D or 400E. Only to have others correct them with "You got the wrong one" [because the parts sellers only seem to carry 200D and 200E].
I like the looks of the 400E but if you like a more flush look then you can seek out the 200E.
I installed the hitch myself over the weekend. It took about 3hrs mostly because had to make a couple of trips to Home Depot to buy the tools that I was missing.
If you are attempting this yourself, make sure that you have wire brush drill bit and WD-40 to clean all mounting holes. Also, you will need extension for your torque wrench.
The mounting holes on the car's frame were pretty rusty. Needed to apply WD-40 and clean with drill brush 3 to 4 times, so that I can screw the bolts by hand all the way...
Im just here to add that I checked the trailer wiring harness in the back of my 24 RDX ASpec (not Advance, so no HFA) and it includes the second red power wire required for the Tekonsha harness. That wire only becomes active after you put the 7.5 amp fuse into the box under the hood. The other red wire already has power but that is not a dedicated power circuit for the trailer harness as I think it shares power with the rear lighting. The additional power wire seems to be dedicated power with nothing else drawing from it, which I assume is why Tekonsha wants you to use it. These are not switched (ignition) power either, they always have battery voltage, which I found odd. There are several switched and constant power sources in the fuse boxes under the hood for those of you that need to run a power wire.
04-21-2022, 09:51 AM
