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Let me guess...you don't do alot of driving and your car has been sitting for long time. Common issue with dead 12V battery. Get trickle charger or replace that 12V every 2-3 yrs.
Actually NO. She drives it ever day and I drive it in the evenings. If it's the original battery, it could be at least 7 years old.
I have a Dodge RAM Cummins Diesel. I'd say almost every time codes go on in that, it's always the battery. I didn't expect this from Japan.
Actually NO. She drives it ever day and I drive it in the evenings. If it's the original battery, it could be at least 7 years old.
I have a Dodge RAM Cummins Diesel. I'd say almost every time codes go on in that, it's always the battery. I didn't expect this from Japan.
7 years old battery is insane!! You're taking a huge risk getting stranded. We're on my 3rd battery in our 2017 MDX with very low miles, only 40K miles. We only drive maybe 1-2K per year. First couple years wife drove it to work alot and had no 12V battery issues, but last couple years it been sitting in garage most of the time. It dies every couple of years but luckily dealer cover replacements under warranty. These newer cars with electronics on-board will drain your battery very fast. Also don't keep the keyfob too close to the car. It constantly communicate with car and will drain both keyfob coin-battery and car's 12V battery quickly. Best to keep it on trickle charger if you don't drive much.
Actually NO. She drives it ever day and I drive it in the evenings. If it's the original battery, it could be at least 7 years old.
I have a Dodge RAM Cummins Diesel. I'd say almost every time codes go on in that, it's always the battery. I didn't expect this from Japan.
You think Japan is using some super secret battery technology that they're not sharing with US and the rest of the world? 7 years is a definitely pushing it..
If you're still running into issues after the trickle charge then yeah i would say it's about time to replace the battery. You're right about at the lifespan of modern batteries ~6 years so it definitely won't hurt anything but your wallet.
Can you please share how to clear the code? I have the same issues with two error messages showing up during driving yesterday, since I had issues last year with the battery, so I just replaced the battery today but after all done, the messages still there, I thought they will go away but not the case, someone said it may take a couple of days driving and then they will disappear ... hope someone can share some OPEX, thanks
No, unfortunately not yet these two error messages did disappear after two days after I drove a lot including highways, but they came back again and did not disappear yet. I did search some of online tips, they said it need to go through full cycle of driving to settle down, but it has been almost two weeks now. I want to give two more days to see if they will disappear by themselves.
Interested if solution is found - same issue here for almost 2 years
I’ve been experiencing this issue for about 2 years. My problem is that it comes and goes, for a week or 2 then disappears for a few months. It not the battery in my case as it’s been replaced. Seem to show up more when it’s damp or cold. I’ve had it appear and disappear while driving the mdx. Wondering if it’s a computer problem or a bad connection or ground.
I have 2018 MDX i bought in 2020.
I have the same 2 error messages for two days. Electric parking brake system and emissions system problem. I have seen them 2 other times over last 2 years and each time it disappeared after a few days. had a scheduled maintenance so had dealer run code. PO430, P0153, PO430. They are proposing to change the catalytic converter. I am suspicious that may not be the issue. Any comments
Originally Posted by PeterBishop
2018 MDX Errors popped up on my wife's car suddenly
Electric Parking Brake Problem
Emissions System Problem
These are unrelated and it leads me to believe that something electronic went wacko.
Does anyone know what this is? I have to take it in to the dealer for a recall notice, but I don't want to give them another thing to charge me for.
I am now having the same issue with these codes. I had my timing belt, water pump, and a recall(connecting rod bearing) done last week. At first this was intermittent but now they stay on. My battery isn't even a year old and it's not losing power. I absolutely loathe when you go into these dealerships, pay $$$$, and then wham, NEW ISSUE. If anyone knows anything, please advise.
I am now having the same issue with these codes. I had my timing belt, water pump, and a recall(connecting rod bearing) done last week. At first this was intermittent but now they stay on. My battery isn't even a year old and it's not losing power. I absolutely loathe when you go into these dealerships, pay $$$$, and then wham, NEW ISSUE. If anyone knows anything, please advise.
I had my timing belt, water pump, and a recall(connecting rod bearing, crank shaft and starter) done last week. About a week later the codes are on. Took it back to dealer they said the battery was bad, so they replaced it. A week later came back on and I took it back they said the purge value was the issue. I replaced it and about 2 weeks later they are back on.
Any help would be appreciated. I believe its tied to the warranty work that was done, never had a code on the car owned since new. Only 100K on car.
2018 MDX Errors popped up on my wife's car suddenly
Electric Parking Brake Problem
Emissions System Problem
These are unrelated and it leads me to believe that something electronic went wacko.
Does anyone know what this is? I have to take it in to the dealer for a recall notice, but I don't want to give them another thing to charge me for.
All,
I got the same 2 error messages because Caliber Collision Tustin was working on my car and drew down the battery over 2 weeks.
AAA came to replace the battery with a brand new on 9/7/2024 and the error messages stopped.
I just got the same 2 error messages again and I think Caliber Collusion Tustin did something which is causing the battery to drain.
Check your battery but also check what electronic devices could be drawing down the power.
In my old Acura 2008 TL Type S, I had to change the battery annually for 5 years until a tech figured out that the wireless devices were always on and drawing down the power.
I love my Acuras but they have been known to have electronic issues which draw down the power ever so slowly…so keep an eye on your battery.
Fixed so far. Codes were P04F1, P0455, P0456 & P0441.
Took car back to Acura, they said the starter was bad and replaced it, I had a fuel smell in the back seat (after fuel pump recall) they said fuel spilt and was sitting on top of the fuel tank and they cleaned it up. They also recalibrated the steering.
The codes came back on before I got home, they told me again it was the purge valve, I had put on in from NAPA, was supposed to be equal of better, but to be safe I ordered a genuine Honda valve and replaced it. Codes went off after 1 day driving and have been off all week so far.
I had my timing belt, water pump, and a recall(connecting rod bearing, crank shaft and starter) done last week. About a week later the codes are on. Took it back to dealer they said the battery was bad, so they replaced it. A week later came back on and I took it back they said the purge value was the issue. I replaced it and about 2 weeks later they are back on.
Any help would be appreciated. I believe its tied to the warranty work that was done, never had a code on the car owned since new. Only 100K on car.
I have the same issue...I went to AutoZone to check the battery, starter and alternator and all check good I clean the battery terminal and connections since I found some corrosion and cleared all code. It seems ok for now.
Does anyone know where the parking brake control unit is located? I’m struggling with code U0128 and I’m thinking about replacing the unit. Only 40k miles on my 2019
i have no emissions warnings just the electronic parking brake problem
For anyone looking at this in the future here is an update .
I had code C0062-76. The EPB module is located behind the trim on the left side of the trunk space. Just peel back the black trim and you’ll see it mounted on the wall near the gas refill door. In my case I replaced the module but was still getting an error. I found my original control module had become unmounted and was laying in the open space. After replacing and clearing the codes the same code kept returning. Finally after properly mounting the replacement module and cleaning all the codes the error messages have disappeared. I think the original error was coming from the fact the unit fell out of its mounting bracket.
i never had any other CEL messages with the EBP Problem message so I knew in my case it didn’t have anything to do with emissions.
welp, I just got the same 2 warnings while driving to pick up my kids! this car has been driving me insane... just bought it 1 week ago and its none stop attention seeking. hope it is just the batteries. did we ever find out if new battery solved it? I will check voltage when I get home...
Voltage of the battery was 12.3v and got the codes pulled as p0420 as an update. I’ll have the battery checked later but I suspect it is on the way out
Update. After a longer drive today 30 minutes each way, the warnings went away and all is well! Hope it stays this way.
thinking the sport hybrid going engine off so often probably contributed to not enough alternator charging the battery if it still has an alternator traditionally in gas engined cars.
it did get to 12.1v later this morning before the long ish drive
It turns out to be Both catalytic converters failing. I had the battery checked out at the dealership and they said it was fine. I posted my long post here for everyone to follow up on but the short answer is that you should get it checked out at dealership, especially since the clean air act covers cats ecu and obd for 8 years/80k miles from date of original sale of all cars when new!
original poster is a 2018 so hope he/she gets it fixed under warranty if it needs it