whatarussh

Anyone have details on what interior parts need to be removed to access the rear shocks? And how do these parts get removed, any special tools techniques? I keep hearing that removal of the rear shocks and springs is difficult, I would like details? I'm considering doing the R&R myself to install the Honda Euro Sport Suspension.

eK24monster

You need to remove the 10mm bolts holding the bolsters in place and your in! You will then have access to the top of the shocks where you can use a shallow 14mm swivel-socket, not a typical 14mm socket attached to a swivel... it is to long and wont work at the angles needed to avoid removal of the plastic trim, to remove the two 14mm nuts.

Simba91102

This doesn't quite explain what's involved. You should plan on taking out the rear seat (the backrest) to get at the tops of the shocks. If you can find the instructions for the A spec kit, I think it explains the seat removal (and the strut removal for that matter). It's in here somewhere, you'll just have to find it (use search and good luck).

whatarussh

Thanks to both replies: If anyone knows another thread or post that gives more info please pass it on. I had heard something that implied that even un-bolted the rear parts still don't come out with ease, any truth to that or more info out there?

Principle

Okay I can help you with this since the 2009 is slightly different.

1. Empty your trunk and reach into the slit between the floor and the back of the seat right in the middle slide the carpet up a bit to feel a bolt. Remove this using a 10mm wrench from the trunk side to prevent damage to seat.

2. From the rear seat feel along the edge underneath the seat you will feel a clip. Push down on the seat to relieve tension on the clip and pull it forward to release. Repeat this step on the other side of the bench there are two clips total.

3. Pull out the lower portion of the seat, pushing the seat belt buckles down through the holes.

REMOVING THE BOLSTERS

4. Look at the bottom of the bolster for a white plastic arm and remove the bolt there (10mm).

5. Move the seatbelt behind the headrest so its out of the way. Hold the bolster on the top and bottom and slide directly up. There is a L hook on the top and bottom of it the top one will slide out easy the bottom one you will have to wiggle loose while pushing up. It helps to tilt the 60/40 split forward so you have room to wiggle it.

6. Repeat to remove the second bolster.

7. Now that both bolsters are out there are unmarked panels on your plastic trim right behind the top of the bolster. Pry these out from the bottom! The bottom of those "doors" will pop out and the top has longer pieces so then slide it down. There are pieces lodged on the side so a little force to pop them all out before you slide it is necessary.

8. Now you can look inside there and see the two bolts holding the top of the rear strut! It's a 14mm nut if you use a deep socket and a large ratchet it will fit in the hole perfect.


I failed at getting the strut out but I sure figured out how to remove the rear seat at least I could help someone lol

Principle

You should note that removing the seat/bolsters isn't really necessary on the 2009 you can get to the bolts with a swivel through just that plastic door mentioned above. That being said if you do remove the bolster the hole is a little bigger and no swivel is necc...

whatarussh

Hey Principle, If I understand this, one does not have to remove the lowers seat or bolster if they use a swivel socket, is this correct? What about not getting the strut out, after you removed the seat and got access why couldn't you get the strut out of the car?

Principle

Yes that's right just fold down your seats and take a look behind that door its only a couple minutes....I didn't have the right tools to get it out. With only one jack there was a lot of tension on the sway bar so pushing down the whole assembly is near impossible I'll be doing it again with some help this saturday

whatarussh

Give a report and maybe some pics of the action would be nice. Good Luck!

HeavyDuty

Disconnect the sway bar and have a fatass friend stand on one of the studs while pulling the strut down & up & out.

MrOtocinclus

Principle, thanks posting for the detailed instructions.

Principle

Okay well I made plans for tom so I went ahead and did the drop earlier in the evening...Didn't use tape or a fat friend just a regular one, everything went on smooth guess i just need a little help.

Hard to push down lift the strut and guide it from the top all with only two hands lol Oh and the back went on and off easier than the front did!!! If you use a wall to lean against you can put enough pressure on it that you have 2 inches easy to clear the fender so no tape. I really wanted to make a guide but I did it last minute before a road trip tom so I really didn't have time to waste.

whatarussh

I would have guessed that the front would be harder but kept seeing comments about the rear; whate made the fronts more difficult? When do we get to see some pics of your car?

Principle

The fronts just took more pressure to get the strut out...mostly because i put one side up at a time so the sway bar was pushing up....

I'm suppose to be getting my works in a few weeks then I'll start posting pics. H&Rs are riding great should be able to tuck it and setup the wheels just right

Principle

Pics are up in my gallery Sorry I took so long!

Tishkevich

iTrader: (3)

hmm... weird you guys made this sound so difficult.. took me about 10 minutes to get both rear struts off methods used.. :-D




Take off the wheels..





wallahh



then you slide the new shits in


10 minutes..

whatarussh

Thanks for the pics Tishkevich. I'm still wating for my Eurosport kit, ships 10/16 but put my RAZR wheels on and looking good.

Tishkevich

iTrader: (3)

must be nice living in cali, i'm about to go winter mode in the next month or two

HeavyDuty

Winter mode, man, that sucks. I bitch about FLA heat more than anyone I know, but other than northern winters being baby-making-weather, I wouldn't want to live where I have to drive my car in that crap.

whatarussh

Everything is good about California living except bad government, taxes, and high prices for everything!

More important is that I just heard my Euro Sport kit is shipping from the UK today. Anyone else thinking of buying these beware that shipping quotes one can get from the FedEx website are meaningless. When I hit the buy button on this kit I had a FedEx shipping quote for $158 (UK to Calif). Now the parts are ready to go and I go setup the pickup and FedEx shows list price $158 but my price is $388...ouch! Can't get any help from FedEx either, done with them forever. Shipping chare from Lings in the UK is costing me $200.