Rolled, Pulled, Shaved and Low.
Thread Starter
Vancouver B.C.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,704
Likes: 325
Rolled, Pulled, Shaved and Low.
Heres the link to my first thread. This is like a part 2 to that.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834266
Finally after months and months, the wheels are on my 2012 TSX. The amount of headaches and unforseeable complications when trying to slam your car on aggressive wheels seem limitless. Over 10 hours have been spent in the shop adjusting, readjusting suspension settings, dampening, preload...rolling, pulling, shaving fenders...going for test drives...doing the alignment etc. Here is a little summary of the entire process and some advice for others looking to slam their rides or fit aggressive wheels. I apologize for what I know will be poor descriptions. Im not good at describing visual things through words so if something doesnt make sense just PM me if you have a Q. I also have some cell phone pics of some of the procedure but not of everything. I will try and add more later.
My setup
-Megan EZ street coilovers. 15 levels of dampening adjustment
-Godspeed 3 piece rear camber kit. +/- 3.5 degrees adjustability
-SBC Front ball joints +/- 1.5 degrees adjustability
-19x9.5 +22 rear
-19x9.5 +30 front
-235/35/19 Potenza re960 All around
Fender modifications
-Rolled all 4 fenders.
-Front Fenders pulled 5mm
-Rear Fenders pulled 15mm
-Cut excess liner in front fenders that pop out due to them being rolled
-Shaved bumper tab area in rear fenders
Front Fenders
-19x9.5 +30 in the fronts front will work with just a fender roll...but..you wont be able to lower your car to a "stanced" height. Once the wheel is on and you lower the car past 1-2 finger gap... you will likely rub on a bit of the fender liner when hitting dips and bumps. Also, turning the wheel to full lock can damage your fender if you go off a parking lot ramp or go over a bump too fast. Because the top of your tire becomes tucked when the suspension travels, full lock makes the tire hit the fender. Before I did the roll and pull, I did not know this and dented my fender from the inside with my tire. The dent is visible from the outside and it cracked the paint where the fender creases.
I however, went the difficult route and wanted my car to be low without any rubbing or high chance of denting my fender again. So I had to cut the excess liner that has been squeezed out from the fenders being rolled. I also pulled 5mm to give me some extra clearance to do full wheel lock and go over bumps etc. I am at 0 finger gap and can drive comfortably now.
19x9.5 +30 Test fit. This is before any fender modification. You can see the dent that Im talking about right in the middle of the fender
Front Ball Joints
-One of the biggest problems I had was the new ball joint hitting the very top of the fender from deep inside the wheel well when my suspension travels to absorb impact. I cannot avoid this unless I raise my car up to a 2 finger gap or higher. The new ball joint is larger than the OEM one, and in addition to being lowered the top of the ball joint angles and becomes a lot higher than stock. So when I go over even a small bump just too fast, and the suspension moves up to absorb the impact, the top of the ball joint actually hits the fender and you hear a dreadful clunking sound. Its loud, feels like shiet and just makes you feel bad. When I was slammed before on OEM ball joints, this DID NOT happen.
So I had to choose either to raise up my car to 2 finger gap, use OEM ball joints, be slammed and have the stiffest preload ever or just deal with the clunking. It is generally good to resolve this issue though because allowing it to happen is like hammering the top of your ball joint over and over; not good.
So this is when I had to play with the preload cause I wanted to be low, but not damage my ball joints either. Stiffening up the spring via the preload would mean less suspension travel. So I comprimised and raised the fronts up from -2 finger gap to 0 finger gap and stiffened pre load quite a bit. This combo has worked well for me and now I am low and can still drive without much clunking.
Rear Fenders
19x9.5 +22 in the rear will fit with just a fender roll. However, as our member Euronoob said, he rubbed with 245/35/19 tires. So thats why I went with 235/35/19. I even contemplated 225/35/19 and 225/40/19.
Anyways, I didnt need to do the pull, but I did it anyways to set the body of my car up for an even crazier setup in the future. Initially I didnt worry at all about the rears because I know Euronoob has accomplished it with the same specs. So I had the car slammed and tire tucked with -5.0 degrees of camber and it looked sick!! Started the car up for test drive and once I was moving I heard rubbing and other noises almost instantly. I was confused because with a roll, AND pull, I have so much clearance.
The culprit was the bumper tab assembly that holds together the rear fender to the rear bumper. This tab takes up alot of space in the wheel well and back side of the fender. It protrudes in a very annoying spot because its barely in the way of the tire. In addition, the part that protrudes is an extremely hard and sharp piece of plastic. The corner of this piece can potentially puncture a tire if you go over a large pothole. So even though my fenders allowed me to be slammed and run now almost a 0 offset wheel, this bumper tab assembly was in the way. So, my solution was to shave the assembly.
The essential part of this assembly, which is the screw and the actual physical tab holes it passes through to hold the fender and rear bumper together, is reinforced by heavy thick plastic, which is the protrusion I was talking about that hits the tire hits. I pretty much shaved all of this excess plastic surrounding this important screw and tab. There is now nothing in the way of my tire and it can travel fully up the fender without rubbing anything. Remember, the screw is still there in the tabs, but just the plastic around this is all shaved off. Besides this tab, our fenders in the rear look actually pretty good for stanced set ups. Lots of room for tire travel.
Rear Fender Before Pull
Rear Fender After Pull
3 piece Rear Camber Arms-Godspeed Brand
These camber arms sat in its original packaging for about 4 months. I dont recall them being rusty when I first got them but when I brought them out the threading on every arm had rust on it. However, 3 different mechanics said its alright. Steel and metal rusts and its no biggie.
I had problems with these because the first installer installed them incorrectly. To anyone who buys this in the future, tell your installer than the threads on all these arms are countersunk. Thus, when you turn the middle piece, the two ends should shorten and lengthen together, evenly. Thus the middle piece you turn to adjust the arm, should be precisely in the middle with an equal amount of thread on each side of it. Then from there, when you turn it, the threads will shorten or lengthen evenly together because it is countersunk to do this. I have never purchased a camber kit before so this is new to me and just giving other noobies a heads up. I had to pay to reinstall the camber kit to fix the mistake of the first mechanic because I had no idea what the arms were supposed to look like. Hopefully none of you guys make the same mistake. All in all though, just steel rods...dont know how to review something like this haha.
Notice how that middle piece of that arm is threaded all the way to the right, with all the thread on the left? That is WRONG. Middle piece should be centered with equal amount of thread on both sides of it.
What scrapes the ground?
If you slam your car, you will notice that the rears are safe. The rears can go low and nothing on that half of the car really touches the ground. The front of the car is also pretty safe..all it has are those mud flaps and rock guard hanging from the under carriage. I scrape these every time i drive and I like them because it lets me know how close I am to the ground. These things can get beat up and scraped and its all good.
My OEM type-s side skirts are also pretty safe and ive yet to scrape them on any speedbump.
The main danger about lowering our TSX's is our exhaust, particularly the resonator located on the cat back of our exhaust. This is the lowest point of our car and so far the only real thing that has been "damaged" due to being low. When I was really low at one point, I was teeter tottering on one of those long, school zone type speed bumps and I was barely able to drive away. When I looked under the car afterwards however, the resonator was not even dented, just scratched. I inspected the under carriage thoroughly with my mechanic and he said all the important things are hidden and there really isnt anything that can be seriously damaged when scraped on a speed bump or something. So all in all, our cars are pretty good for low riding. If you have OEM mudguards though, they hang lower than the resonator on our cat back and they will get scraped up.
Gaps between body pieces due to pulling and rubbing
After the fender pull, edges where the fenders and the front/rear bumper meet are not flush anymore, which is expected. There are gaps that make it look like the bumper tab is loose. Right now it look okay... but as the fenders take more abuse from rubbing and the occasional pothole or whatever, the gap can widen. Ugh.
Random Pics
Low on temporary winter tires
Low on stock 18's. They are sold now.
Mild Stretch
Teaser
Conclusion
Right now I am pretty content. All my wheels are at about 2 - 2.5 degrees of negative camber and I am 0 finger gap in the front with -1 finger gap in the rear. 0 finger gap in front might sound low, but the front bumper is actually still very high off the ground. Some speed bumps I dont even scrape the mud flaps. I have the extra clearance from the fender pulls, but I have yet to buy spacers so my wheels look tucked. I think my wheels look alright, but since my car doesnt really have any other mods yet I feel like it looks like its trying too hard. Hopefully with some tint + black roof that will change though.
This is just a little summary of my endeavors and hopefully it will help some of you guys out who are looking to do something similar. Long post I know but hopefully it helps atleast one person.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834266
Finally after months and months, the wheels are on my 2012 TSX. The amount of headaches and unforseeable complications when trying to slam your car on aggressive wheels seem limitless. Over 10 hours have been spent in the shop adjusting, readjusting suspension settings, dampening, preload...rolling, pulling, shaving fenders...going for test drives...doing the alignment etc. Here is a little summary of the entire process and some advice for others looking to slam their rides or fit aggressive wheels. I apologize for what I know will be poor descriptions. Im not good at describing visual things through words so if something doesnt make sense just PM me if you have a Q. I also have some cell phone pics of some of the procedure but not of everything. I will try and add more later.
My setup
-Megan EZ street coilovers. 15 levels of dampening adjustment
-Godspeed 3 piece rear camber kit. +/- 3.5 degrees adjustability
-SBC Front ball joints +/- 1.5 degrees adjustability
-19x9.5 +22 rear
-19x9.5 +30 front
-235/35/19 Potenza re960 All around
Fender modifications
-Rolled all 4 fenders.
-Front Fenders pulled 5mm
-Rear Fenders pulled 15mm
-Cut excess liner in front fenders that pop out due to them being rolled
-Shaved bumper tab area in rear fenders
Front Fenders
-19x9.5 +30 in the fronts front will work with just a fender roll...but..you wont be able to lower your car to a "stanced" height. Once the wheel is on and you lower the car past 1-2 finger gap... you will likely rub on a bit of the fender liner when hitting dips and bumps. Also, turning the wheel to full lock can damage your fender if you go off a parking lot ramp or go over a bump too fast. Because the top of your tire becomes tucked when the suspension travels, full lock makes the tire hit the fender. Before I did the roll and pull, I did not know this and dented my fender from the inside with my tire. The dent is visible from the outside and it cracked the paint where the fender creases.
I however, went the difficult route and wanted my car to be low without any rubbing or high chance of denting my fender again. So I had to cut the excess liner that has been squeezed out from the fenders being rolled. I also pulled 5mm to give me some extra clearance to do full wheel lock and go over bumps etc. I am at 0 finger gap and can drive comfortably now.
19x9.5 +30 Test fit. This is before any fender modification. You can see the dent that Im talking about right in the middle of the fender
Front Ball Joints
-One of the biggest problems I had was the new ball joint hitting the very top of the fender from deep inside the wheel well when my suspension travels to absorb impact. I cannot avoid this unless I raise my car up to a 2 finger gap or higher. The new ball joint is larger than the OEM one, and in addition to being lowered the top of the ball joint angles and becomes a lot higher than stock. So when I go over even a small bump just too fast, and the suspension moves up to absorb the impact, the top of the ball joint actually hits the fender and you hear a dreadful clunking sound. Its loud, feels like shiet and just makes you feel bad. When I was slammed before on OEM ball joints, this DID NOT happen.
So I had to choose either to raise up my car to 2 finger gap, use OEM ball joints, be slammed and have the stiffest preload ever or just deal with the clunking. It is generally good to resolve this issue though because allowing it to happen is like hammering the top of your ball joint over and over; not good.
So this is when I had to play with the preload cause I wanted to be low, but not damage my ball joints either. Stiffening up the spring via the preload would mean less suspension travel. So I comprimised and raised the fronts up from -2 finger gap to 0 finger gap and stiffened pre load quite a bit. This combo has worked well for me and now I am low and can still drive without much clunking.
Rear Fenders
19x9.5 +22 in the rear will fit with just a fender roll. However, as our member Euronoob said, he rubbed with 245/35/19 tires. So thats why I went with 235/35/19. I even contemplated 225/35/19 and 225/40/19.
Anyways, I didnt need to do the pull, but I did it anyways to set the body of my car up for an even crazier setup in the future. Initially I didnt worry at all about the rears because I know Euronoob has accomplished it with the same specs. So I had the car slammed and tire tucked with -5.0 degrees of camber and it looked sick!! Started the car up for test drive and once I was moving I heard rubbing and other noises almost instantly. I was confused because with a roll, AND pull, I have so much clearance.
The culprit was the bumper tab assembly that holds together the rear fender to the rear bumper. This tab takes up alot of space in the wheel well and back side of the fender. It protrudes in a very annoying spot because its barely in the way of the tire. In addition, the part that protrudes is an extremely hard and sharp piece of plastic. The corner of this piece can potentially puncture a tire if you go over a large pothole. So even though my fenders allowed me to be slammed and run now almost a 0 offset wheel, this bumper tab assembly was in the way. So, my solution was to shave the assembly.
The essential part of this assembly, which is the screw and the actual physical tab holes it passes through to hold the fender and rear bumper together, is reinforced by heavy thick plastic, which is the protrusion I was talking about that hits the tire hits. I pretty much shaved all of this excess plastic surrounding this important screw and tab. There is now nothing in the way of my tire and it can travel fully up the fender without rubbing anything. Remember, the screw is still there in the tabs, but just the plastic around this is all shaved off. Besides this tab, our fenders in the rear look actually pretty good for stanced set ups. Lots of room for tire travel.
Rear Fender Before Pull
Rear Fender After Pull
3 piece Rear Camber Arms-Godspeed Brand
These camber arms sat in its original packaging for about 4 months. I dont recall them being rusty when I first got them but when I brought them out the threading on every arm had rust on it. However, 3 different mechanics said its alright. Steel and metal rusts and its no biggie.
I had problems with these because the first installer installed them incorrectly. To anyone who buys this in the future, tell your installer than the threads on all these arms are countersunk. Thus, when you turn the middle piece, the two ends should shorten and lengthen together, evenly. Thus the middle piece you turn to adjust the arm, should be precisely in the middle with an equal amount of thread on each side of it. Then from there, when you turn it, the threads will shorten or lengthen evenly together because it is countersunk to do this. I have never purchased a camber kit before so this is new to me and just giving other noobies a heads up. I had to pay to reinstall the camber kit to fix the mistake of the first mechanic because I had no idea what the arms were supposed to look like. Hopefully none of you guys make the same mistake. All in all though, just steel rods...dont know how to review something like this haha.
Notice how that middle piece of that arm is threaded all the way to the right, with all the thread on the left? That is WRONG. Middle piece should be centered with equal amount of thread on both sides of it.
What scrapes the ground?
If you slam your car, you will notice that the rears are safe. The rears can go low and nothing on that half of the car really touches the ground. The front of the car is also pretty safe..all it has are those mud flaps and rock guard hanging from the under carriage. I scrape these every time i drive and I like them because it lets me know how close I am to the ground. These things can get beat up and scraped and its all good.
My OEM type-s side skirts are also pretty safe and ive yet to scrape them on any speedbump.
The main danger about lowering our TSX's is our exhaust, particularly the resonator located on the cat back of our exhaust. This is the lowest point of our car and so far the only real thing that has been "damaged" due to being low. When I was really low at one point, I was teeter tottering on one of those long, school zone type speed bumps and I was barely able to drive away. When I looked under the car afterwards however, the resonator was not even dented, just scratched. I inspected the under carriage thoroughly with my mechanic and he said all the important things are hidden and there really isnt anything that can be seriously damaged when scraped on a speed bump or something. So all in all, our cars are pretty good for low riding. If you have OEM mudguards though, they hang lower than the resonator on our cat back and they will get scraped up.
Gaps between body pieces due to pulling and rubbing
After the fender pull, edges where the fenders and the front/rear bumper meet are not flush anymore, which is expected. There are gaps that make it look like the bumper tab is loose. Right now it look okay... but as the fenders take more abuse from rubbing and the occasional pothole or whatever, the gap can widen. Ugh.
Random Pics
Low on temporary winter tires
Low on stock 18's. They are sold now.
Mild Stretch
Teaser
Conclusion
Right now I am pretty content. All my wheels are at about 2 - 2.5 degrees of negative camber and I am 0 finger gap in the front with -1 finger gap in the rear. 0 finger gap in front might sound low, but the front bumper is actually still very high off the ground. Some speed bumps I dont even scrape the mud flaps. I have the extra clearance from the fender pulls, but I have yet to buy spacers so my wheels look tucked. I think my wheels look alright, but since my car doesnt really have any other mods yet I feel like it looks like its trying too hard. Hopefully with some tint + black roof that will change though.
This is just a little summary of my endeavors and hopefully it will help some of you guys out who are looking to do something similar. Long post I know but hopefully it helps atleast one person.
Last edited by ttk5; May 24, 2012 at 01:17 AM.
SeeYou2Crew #2
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,574
Likes: 825
From: Socal 626
that's awesome bro!!! few questions:
1. when you said your fender and bumper isnt flush anymore cuz of roll and pull, is it just because of the pull? a simple roll should not cause that right?
2. can i see a pic of the shaved bumper tab? thanks!
3. are all your tire brands the same? front looks less stretched than rear?
4. im guessing a 225 will be too much of a stretch?
5. how's the 235/35? i am debating between 245/35 (front), 225/35, or 235/35. if i remember correctly, 235/35 is pretty thin?
6. so now you are running spc ball joints, with -1.5 camber and fully stiffen suspension? you said if you had oem you didn't hit the ball joints, so why not run oem ball joints with stiffen suspension? did it not give enough camber? or you just didn't think oem ball joint can take the pressure?
7. what order should i do it in? camber kit, fender roll, mount wheels/tires, then alignment?
sorry for so many questions bro, but you know my set up is coming in very soon so im trying to prepare! i was gonna PM you with these questions..but i figure a lot of members might have similar questions, so why not.
1. when you said your fender and bumper isnt flush anymore cuz of roll and pull, is it just because of the pull? a simple roll should not cause that right?
2. can i see a pic of the shaved bumper tab? thanks!
3. are all your tire brands the same? front looks less stretched than rear?
4. im guessing a 225 will be too much of a stretch?
5. how's the 235/35? i am debating between 245/35 (front), 225/35, or 235/35. if i remember correctly, 235/35 is pretty thin?
6. so now you are running spc ball joints, with -1.5 camber and fully stiffen suspension? you said if you had oem you didn't hit the ball joints, so why not run oem ball joints with stiffen suspension? did it not give enough camber? or you just didn't think oem ball joint can take the pressure?
7. what order should i do it in? camber kit, fender roll, mount wheels/tires, then alignment?
sorry for so many questions bro, but you know my set up is coming in very soon so im trying to prepare! i was gonna PM you with these questions..but i figure a lot of members might have similar questions, so why not.
Last edited by ed_423; May 24, 2012 at 03:00 AM.
Hello World
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,757
Likes: 1,788
From: Dallas, TX
Very nice. I wish I had that much patience/money to put into my car. Good to know about the center part of the camber arms being in the middle, I'm hopefully installing mine this weekend. Can't wait to see the photoshoot when all is done.
Trending Topics
Op is too busy to care
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,257
Likes: 913
this is really important info for all of the heros going wide out there, dont forget that cars should still drive and you should take important consideration into the front wheel offset width and your suspension height:
Front Fenders
-19x9.5 +30 in the fronts front will work with just a fender roll...but..you wont be able to lower your car to a "stanced" height. Once the wheel is on and you lower the car past 1-2 finger gap... you will likely rub on a bit of the fender liner when hitting dips and bumps. Also, turning the wheel to full lock can damage your fender if you go off a parking lot ramp or go over a bump too fast. Because the top of your tire becomes tucked when the suspension travels, full lock makes the tire hit the fender. Before I did the roll and pull, I did not know this and dented my fender from the inside with my tire. The dent is visible from the outside and it cracked the paint where the fender creases.
Front Fenders
-19x9.5 +30 in the fronts front will work with just a fender roll...but..you wont be able to lower your car to a "stanced" height. Once the wheel is on and you lower the car past 1-2 finger gap... you will likely rub on a bit of the fender liner when hitting dips and bumps. Also, turning the wheel to full lock can damage your fender if you go off a parking lot ramp or go over a bump too fast. Because the top of your tire becomes tucked when the suspension travels, full lock makes the tire hit the fender. Before I did the roll and pull, I did not know this and dented my fender from the inside with my tire. The dent is visible from the outside and it cracked the paint where the fender creases.
Thread Starter
Vancouver B.C.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,704
Likes: 325
You know what, I actually changed the lugs back to my black rays lugs cause I felt like the blue didnt flow with the whole image of the car. I felt like it was making my car look like it was trying too hard. Maybe after some more exterior mods I will put them back on. But looking at just the blue lugs on the purple wheel, I know its hypnotizing haha. But as a whole I felt it wasn't right at the moment.
Thread Starter
Vancouver B.C.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,704
Likes: 325
And ED! I will get back to your post after I snap some pics. But I can def give you some good advice
mugen cu2
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 784
Likes: 201
From: coral springs fl
honestly if i were you i would keep the blue lugs i like things that you dont see everyday like most white cars like to have gold wheels,my 96 accord is a teal blue most of my friends used to tell me to get polish wheels or white blahblah i wanted something different so i bought a set of work vs that were silver and painted them in midori green with volk lugs lol i used to like the wtf look on people face hope you dont mind me posting this just so u have an idea
bright colors ftw
bright colors ftw
Last edited by savclaude; May 24, 2012 at 08:26 PM.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
wow, man...doing big things. Awesome set up and gorgeous car...all this time I thought you were a pu**y but it was just that you didn't "own" the car. 
PS, about that whole front upper camber bolt hitting the top of the strut area...we were discussing this in a 3G thread this morning...easy solution is to look up into the top of the fender and find where the UCA is hitting the top and cut out a round 2" access hole for it to go up into. Apparently a BUNCH of people have done this over the last 2 decades with zero side effects.
J.
PS, about that whole front upper camber bolt hitting the top of the strut area...we were discussing this in a 3G thread this morning...easy solution is to look up into the top of the fender and find where the UCA is hitting the top and cut out a round 2" access hole for it to go up into. Apparently a BUNCH of people have done this over the last 2 decades with zero side effects.
J.
Thread Starter
Vancouver B.C.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,704
Likes: 325
that's awesome bro!!! few questions:
1. when you said your fender and bumper isnt flush anymore cuz of roll and pull, is it just because of the pull? a simple roll should not cause that right?
If you start the roll really close to the tab maybe...but as long as you start the roll a few cm away from the tab Im sure it would be fine. My last CU2 had justa roll and no there was no gap.
2. can i see a pic of the shaved bumper tab? thanks!
I will get this pic for you, and for everyone else...tomorrow lol. you know im a procrastinator ed.
3. are all your tire brands the same? front looks less stretched than rear?
Yeap same tires all around. and same width wheels all around so your just seeing things
4. im guessing a 225 will be too much of a stretch?
225 is a VERY common stretch on a 9.5 wheel. Where I live though I could use the extra wheel lip protection due to the pot holes and uneven and damaged roads.
5. how's the 235/35? i am debating between 245/35 (front), 225/35, or 235/35. if i remember correctly, 235/35 is pretty thin?
This is my 2nd time having 235/35/19 on the CU2. Im completely content with them and comfort wise I cannot tell them apart from the 245/35/19. Ive sat in many of my friends cars who are running a 225/35/19 tire and you really cannot tell the difference in terms of ride comfort. I think it matters way more on your coilover settings. I would be totally 100% down to do a 225/35/19 stretch on this car.
6. so now you are running spc ball joints, with -1.5 camber and fully stiffen suspension? you said if you had oem you didn't hit the ball joints, so why not run oem ball joints with stiffen suspension? did it not give enough camber? or you just didn't think oem ball joint can take the pressure?
OEM ball joints give very little adjustability. Im actually at around -2.5 in the fronts even though the ball joints give +/- 1.5 adjustability because there is natural camber from being lowered too. Thats why I can do my rears out to -6 even though the arms offer only +/-3.5. But to answer your question, I wanted the extra adjustability of the aftermarket ball joint, and I didnt want to pay AGAIN to reinstall the front, especially since I just payed twice to install the rears. Im glad now to have read rockstar's post below because I think I may just cut an access hole.
If money wasnt an issue though, i was seriously contemplaying using the OEM joints again because ride height in the front is more of a priority than camber. I dont relaly care about front camber, just rear camber haha
7. what order should i do it in? camber kit, fender roll, mount wheels/tires, then alignment?
This is what I wish I woulda done to save some time and money. Do the camber kit and alignment together at the end. Have the same person do both so he is familiar with the camber arms when he does the alignment. The first thing should be mounting your wheels and tires. You need to test fit with the wheels with the tire on so from there you can decide if you even need to roll. So Mount tire -> Test fit wheel on car -> Roll/pull, or dont -> camber kit -> alignment
sorry for so many questions bro, but you know my set up is coming in very soon so im trying to prepare! i was gonna PM you with these questions..but i figure a lot of members might have similar questions, so why not.
Dude no problem. And your right, it is better to ask these openly cause we both know this community is all about helping eachother!! haha Cant wait to see your setup though..dont evne know what wheels you got
1. when you said your fender and bumper isnt flush anymore cuz of roll and pull, is it just because of the pull? a simple roll should not cause that right?
If you start the roll really close to the tab maybe...but as long as you start the roll a few cm away from the tab Im sure it would be fine. My last CU2 had justa roll and no there was no gap.
2. can i see a pic of the shaved bumper tab? thanks!
I will get this pic for you, and for everyone else...tomorrow lol. you know im a procrastinator ed.
3. are all your tire brands the same? front looks less stretched than rear?
Yeap same tires all around. and same width wheels all around so your just seeing things
4. im guessing a 225 will be too much of a stretch?
225 is a VERY common stretch on a 9.5 wheel. Where I live though I could use the extra wheel lip protection due to the pot holes and uneven and damaged roads.
5. how's the 235/35? i am debating between 245/35 (front), 225/35, or 235/35. if i remember correctly, 235/35 is pretty thin?
This is my 2nd time having 235/35/19 on the CU2. Im completely content with them and comfort wise I cannot tell them apart from the 245/35/19. Ive sat in many of my friends cars who are running a 225/35/19 tire and you really cannot tell the difference in terms of ride comfort. I think it matters way more on your coilover settings. I would be totally 100% down to do a 225/35/19 stretch on this car.
6. so now you are running spc ball joints, with -1.5 camber and fully stiffen suspension? you said if you had oem you didn't hit the ball joints, so why not run oem ball joints with stiffen suspension? did it not give enough camber? or you just didn't think oem ball joint can take the pressure?
OEM ball joints give very little adjustability. Im actually at around -2.5 in the fronts even though the ball joints give +/- 1.5 adjustability because there is natural camber from being lowered too. Thats why I can do my rears out to -6 even though the arms offer only +/-3.5. But to answer your question, I wanted the extra adjustability of the aftermarket ball joint, and I didnt want to pay AGAIN to reinstall the front, especially since I just payed twice to install the rears. Im glad now to have read rockstar's post below because I think I may just cut an access hole.
If money wasnt an issue though, i was seriously contemplaying using the OEM joints again because ride height in the front is more of a priority than camber. I dont relaly care about front camber, just rear camber haha
7. what order should i do it in? camber kit, fender roll, mount wheels/tires, then alignment?
This is what I wish I woulda done to save some time and money. Do the camber kit and alignment together at the end. Have the same person do both so he is familiar with the camber arms when he does the alignment. The first thing should be mounting your wheels and tires. You need to test fit with the wheels with the tire on so from there you can decide if you even need to roll. So Mount tire -> Test fit wheel on car -> Roll/pull, or dont -> camber kit -> alignment
sorry for so many questions bro, but you know my set up is coming in very soon so im trying to prepare! i was gonna PM you with these questions..but i figure a lot of members might have similar questions, so why not.
Dude no problem. And your right, it is better to ask these openly cause we both know this community is all about helping eachother!! haha
Cant wait to see your setup though..dont evne know what wheels you gotHater!! just kidding. Yea i know they arent for everyone. Like my parents..
honestly if i were you i would keep the blue lugs i like things that you dont see everyday like most white cars like to have gold wheels,my 96 accord is a teal blue most of my friends used to tell me to get polish wheels or white blahblah i wanted something different so i bought a set of work vs that were silver and painted them in midori green with volk lugs lol i used to like the wtf look on people face hope you dont mind me posting this just so u have an idea
bright colors ftw
bright colors ftw
wow, man...doing big things. Awesome set up and gorgeous car...all this time I thought you were a pu**y but it was just that you didn't "own" the car.
PS, about that whole front upper camber bolt hitting the top of the strut area...we were discussing this in a 3G thread this morning...easy solution is to look up into the top of the fender and find where the UCA is hitting the top and cut out a round 2" access hole for it to go up into. Apparently a BUNCH of people have done this over the last 2 decades with zero side effects.
J.
PS, about that whole front upper camber bolt hitting the top of the strut area...we were discussing this in a 3G thread this morning...easy solution is to look up into the top of the fender and find where the UCA is hitting the top and cut out a round 2" access hole for it to go up into. Apparently a BUNCH of people have done this over the last 2 decades with zero side effects.
J.
Man this is a SICK accord!! Those wheels look amazing. seeing that pic really makes me feel like I made the right choice with my setup. Thanks!
Thanks! But its really not that amazing haha. I dont even have tint!
Hello World
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,757
Likes: 1,788
From: Dallas, TX
I'm going to be the "mechanic" haha. Yeah I'm planning on making the length identical to stock and installing them like that until I get an alignment. The only question now is how low do I want to go?
10th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Great thread!
I wonder though, what do you mean by a "stanced" height? I planned to purchase Tien SS and 19x8.5 (or 9) +32 up front and wish to run 40 series tires. I would like all of the tire to show (from what I've heard the SS doesn't go as low as most coilovers anyway). Do you believe I would I still have issues with that size up front?
What made you decide against 225/40 in the rear? Was it the same issue with having it at a very low height?
I appreciate this thread. It seems we're all kind of guessing our way around proper offset since the community hasn't been as developed as others. Love your process of trial and error though! Please post more photos!
*Subscribed*
I wonder though, what do you mean by a "stanced" height? I planned to purchase Tien SS and 19x8.5 (or 9) +32 up front and wish to run 40 series tires. I would like all of the tire to show (from what I've heard the SS doesn't go as low as most coilovers anyway). Do you believe I would I still have issues with that size up front?
What made you decide against 225/40 in the rear? Was it the same issue with having it at a very low height?
I appreciate this thread. It seems we're all kind of guessing our way around proper offset since the community hasn't been as developed as others. Love your process of trial and error though! Please post more photos!
*Subscribed*
Membered Register
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 538
Likes: 161
Great thread!
I wonder though, what do you mean by a "stanced" height? I planned to purchase Tien SS and 19x8.5 (or 9) +32 up front and wish to run 40 series tires. I would like all of the tire to show (from what I've heard the SS doesn't go as low as most coilovers anyway). Do you believe I would I still have issues with that size up front?
What made you decide against 225/40 in the rear? Was it the same issue with having it at a very low height?
I appreciate this thread. It seems we're all kind of guessing our way around proper offset since the community hasn't been as developed as others. Love your process of trial and error though! Please post more photos!
*Subscribed*
I wonder though, what do you mean by a "stanced" height? I planned to purchase Tien SS and 19x8.5 (or 9) +32 up front and wish to run 40 series tires. I would like all of the tire to show (from what I've heard the SS doesn't go as low as most coilovers anyway). Do you believe I would I still have issues with that size up front?
What made you decide against 225/40 in the rear? Was it the same issue with having it at a very low height?
I appreciate this thread. It seems we're all kind of guessing our way around proper offset since the community hasn't been as developed as others. Love your process of trial and error though! Please post more photos!
*Subscribed*
Thread Starter
Vancouver B.C.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,704
Likes: 325
Like I said, Im a procrastinator; I know it took me a while. But here are some pics of the gap I am talking about due to my fender pull. The rear is actually not noticeable so I didnt take pics. Here is what my front looks like from different angles.
Here are some pics of my cut fender liner. This first one also shoes the damage done to my paint when my wheel dented the fender from the inside.
And couple Randoms
I was unable to take a good pic of the shaved bumper tab. It was really hard to fit the camera into a spot that would capture it from a decent angle. Im going back to cut access holes for my ball joints soon so when my car is up on the lift again, I will snap some pics.
Here are some pics of my cut fender liner. This first one also shoes the damage done to my paint when my wheel dented the fender from the inside.
And couple Randoms
I was unable to take a good pic of the shaved bumper tab. It was really hard to fit the camera into a spot that would capture it from a decent angle. Im going back to cut access holes for my ball joints soon so when my car is up on the lift again, I will snap some pics.
SeeYou2Crew #2
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,574
Likes: 825
From: Socal 626
thanks for the pics tommy, good shit.
should paint your roof, grille, and side mirrors purple now
LOL
that fender/bumper is bugging me tho :/ hopefully mine wont be like that, especially when im not as aggressive as yours
but awesome fitmetn tho! loving it. lmk how the whole cutting access hole goes
should paint your roof, grille, and side mirrors purple now
LOL that fender/bumper is bugging me tho :/ hopefully mine wont be like that, especially when im not as aggressive as yours
but awesome fitmetn tho! loving it. lmk how the whole cutting access hole goes
