Rotors and brake pads
Rotors and brake pads
I'm gonna change my rotors and brake pads for my 2012 TSX.
Anyone recommend any good aftermarket rotors and pads?
or should I stick with OEM rotors and pads.
Any advise is welcome.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers
Anyone recommend any good aftermarket rotors and pads?

or should I stick with OEM rotors and pads.
Any advise is welcome.
Thanks in advance!
I've got the powerstop z23 kit. Had it for about a month. They work great.
Power Stop 1-Click Brake Kits | Power Stop
Power Stop 1-Click Brake Kits | Power Stop
I just did the F&R using the Stop Tech slotted and drilled rotors, and the EBC Red Stuff pads. After bedding them, there is no pulsing anymore from hard stops, and the stopping power is much better. Have braided lines which are going in soon...
any noise coming out of the breaks
Nope, they are very quiet. I went to a 5 mile connector, and did 10 stops from 60 to 10, in succession. Brakes were Hot! I do the same with my Triumph. Definitely a fan of EBC. Don't know the answer to squealing. Maybe coat the backing plates.
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<p>
Oh I love the bite of my redstuffs no doubt!</p><p>I've tried coating the backing plates (shims) twice already with Disc Brake Quiet. First time it worked for about 2 weeks, and second time about 1 week. For some reason the RL caliper pistons are pushing against the shims in a way that it actually puts little rings into the coating of the shims (shape of the piston). As you can imagine, where the visible rings are the coating has come off, exposing the metal. This is very likely my problem given that I've seen temporary success each time after applying it. Mind you, I don't brake very hard at all.</p><p>Now, I have no idea why this is occurring though. The calipers have been rebuilt. Maybe the pads are just not sitting right because they have to push up against 350z brembo sized rotors (one of the few rotors that "fit" when doing the RL caliper conversion).</p><p>Squealing occurs maybe every other day for me, but it's minimal. For what it's worth, I find that it squeals a bit more when I'm braking with my steering wheel turned (i.e., going slowly over a speed bump on an angle). Braking while going straight rarely happens.
</p><p>I hate that the redstuffs shed so much brake dust though! My front wheels literally look grey while my rears are still bronze
</p>
</p><p>I hate that the redstuffs shed so much brake dust though! My front wheels literally look grey while my rears are still bronze
</p>
<p>Oh I love the bite of my redstuffs no doubt!</p><p>I've tried coating the backing plates (shims) twice already with Disc Brake Quiet. First time it worked for about 2 weeks, and second time about 1 week. For some reason the RL caliper pistons are pushing against the shims in a way that it actually puts little rings into the coating of the shims (shape of the piston). As you can imagine, where the visible rings are the coating has come off, exposing the metal. This is very likely my problem given that I've seen temporary success each time after applying it. Mind you, I don't brake very hard at all.</p><p>Now, I have no idea why this is occurring though. The calipers have been rebuilt. Maybe the pads are just not sitting right because they have to push up against 350z brembo sized rotors (one of the few rotors that "fit" when doing the RL caliper conversion).</p><p>Squealing occurs maybe every other day for me, but it's minimal. For what it's worth, I find that it squeals a bit more when I'm braking with my steering wheel turned (i.e., going slowly over a speed bump on an angle). Braking while going straight rarely happens.
</p><p>I hate that the redstuffs shed so much brake dust though! My front wheels literally look grey while my rears are still bronze
</p>
</p><p>I hate that the redstuffs shed so much brake dust though! My front wheels literally look grey while my rears are still bronze
</p>The piston imprint on the back of the pads is normal. The squeal at low speed with the steering at an angle would suggest that's coming from the anchor point of the pads. Try using Dow Corning 111 or Honda equivalent 08C30-B0234M. In the attached picture where I have the arrows pointing, apply this lube over the shafts & under the contact point of the anti-rattle spring. On the back of each pads apply a coat of this lube again about .25mm thick. Then install the pads back into the caliper. If the pads you are using has backing shims, apply a thin coat of the lube to the back of the pads before putting on the shims. Then coat the back of the shims .25mm thick with the lube.

On the edge of the anti-rattle spring & pads. If it touches any part of the caliper body. Apply the lube at those points too. This lube will not wash off with water, harden or melts away with heat.
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Last edited by evo9; Aug 22, 2015 at 07:45 AM.
<p>Yeah I have an equivalent, Disc Brake Quiet (very popular on Amazon, for what it's worth). I'll try using my DBQ on all those contact points in addition to the back of the shims first. If this doesn't help, I'll try doing the same with the product you recommended.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Yeah I have an equivalent, Disc Brake Quiet (very popular on Amazon, for what it's worth). I'll try using my DBQ on all those contact points in addition to the back of the shims first. If this doesn't help, I'll try doing the same with the product you recommended.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
If it is the CRC or Permatex brake quite, it's gonna be hit or miss with those products. I've tried all of those over years & always end up back with the Dow Corning product. I work in the heavy fleet transportation industry & the Dow is best or the vehicle Manufacture rebrand version. The Dow is clear, so on your installation it would be the way to go.
Bringing this back to the top.. I just replaced the rear pads, and noticed the pads are wearing unevenly.. There is a washer that fell out of the caliper carrier when I removed it last year, so I put it on the bottom when I bolted it back up.Maybe it goes on the top? Does anyone have a breakdown of the rear brake assembly, so that i can see what I may have done wrong... TIA! Zeno
If it is the CRC or Permatex brake quite, it's gonna be hit or miss with those products. I've tried all of those over years & always end up back with the Dow Corning product. I work in the heavy fleet transportation industry & the Dow is best or the vehicle Manufacture rebrand version. The Dow is clear, so on your installation it would be the way to go.


Bringing this back to the top.. I just replaced the rear pads, and noticed the pads are wearing unevenly.. There is a washer that fell out of the caliper carrier when I removed it last year, so I put it on the bottom when I bolted it back up.Maybe it goes on the top? Does anyone have a breakdown of the rear brake assembly, so that i can see what I may have done wrong... TIA! Zeno
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