Engine shield
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Engine shield
Hi all,
Anyone know if the engine splash shields are the same on both first and 2nd gen TSX ?
I have an '09, and the shield I found is likely from an earlier year.
thanks !
Mike
Anyone know if the engine splash shields are the same on both first and 2nd gen TSX ?
I have an '09, and the shield I found is likely from an earlier year.
thanks !
Mike
#2
Instructor
Thread Starter
In case anyone comes across this issue...YES, the 1st and 2nd gen TSX engine splash shields are different.......
old 1st gen part for $25 vs a new 2nd gen $300 one.... **SIGH***
old 1st gen part for $25 vs a new 2nd gen $300 one.... **SIGH***
#3
Burning Brakes
Did you mean above engine or below engine shield?
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the link ulrblitzer. I'll check the shipping and exchange to see if it's a better deal than my Canadian quote.
The metal plate is part of the assembly or is it extra ?
Cheers,
Mike
The metal plate is part of the assembly or is it extra ?
Cheers,
Mike
#7
Pro
Its all one piece, the metal tray and the plastic trim surrounding. More than likely, the plastic trim that is left is beat up or the retaining clips are rusted and you wouldn't be able to screw in the metal tray anyways.
I only paid about $100.00 for mine off eBay a couple months back.
You'll probably want to pick up some of those black plastic bumper clips too. I broke a few of them pulling out the old plastic trim piece. They're pretty cheap for a bag off eBay.
I only paid about $100.00 for mine off eBay a couple months back.
You'll probably want to pick up some of those black plastic bumper clips too. I broke a few of them pulling out the old plastic trim piece. They're pretty cheap for a bag off eBay.
Last edited by ulrblitzer; 02-01-2015 at 07:16 PM.
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wrayman (02-26-2015)
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
wrayman,
I had to replace mine as well ('12 TSX). The best value/shipping I got was from Delray Acura in Florida.
74110-TL2-A00 | COVER ASSY., ENGINE (LOWER) $153.62
Shipping charge to Connecticut: $13.27
AcuraOEMparts.com
I had to replace mine as well ('12 TSX). The best value/shipping I got was from Delray Acura in Florida.
74110-TL2-A00 | COVER ASSY., ENGINE (LOWER) $153.62
Shipping charge to Connecticut: $13.27
AcuraOEMparts.com
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wrayman (02-26-2015)
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, finally managed to tear the engine shield off this am. Lots of ice and such built up in parking lots, driveways etc. here.
$300 later, I have a new one from Acura. **SIGH***
Oh well, it happened in my driveway, so it could've been worse...might've flown off on the highway and created a real hazard.
C'mon spring, LOL
$300 later, I have a new one from Acura. **SIGH***
Oh well, it happened in my driveway, so it could've been worse...might've flown off on the highway and created a real hazard.
C'mon spring, LOL
#10
Intermediate
Well, finally managed to tear the engine shield off this am. Lots of ice and such built up in parking lots, driveways etc. here.
$300 later, I have a new one from Acura. **SIGH***
Oh well, it happened in my driveway, so it could've been worse...might've flown off on the highway and created a real hazard.
C'mon spring, LOL
$300 later, I have a new one from Acura. **SIGH***
Oh well, it happened in my driveway, so it could've been worse...might've flown off on the highway and created a real hazard.
C'mon spring, LOL
I replaced mine because it got mangled somehow. Dealer said they would replace it for $375. I'm glad I found it at a more reasonable price online and did it myself.
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z643167z (05-18-2015)
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z643167z (05-18-2015)
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks,I checked them as well. After the exchange, shipping taxes and duty, same or cheaper to buy it here. Wild eh ?
#15
I went to delta sonic car wash and it seemed that the shield pulled out after i got out. After a claim was filed Delta Sonic bought the heat-shield and the plastic cover assembly for approx $150. They couldn't install it because they didn't have the proper torque tools to remove the tire.
I called the dealer to make a appointment for today, he said it would take 30 mins to do and the charge would $51.
I called the dealer to make a appointment for today, he said it would take 30 mins to do and the charge would $51.
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z643167z (05-18-2015)
#16
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
I went to delta sonic car wash and it seemed that the shield pulled out after i got out. After a claim was filed Delta Sonic bought the heat-shield and the plastic cover assembly for approx $150. They couldn't install it because they didn't have the proper torque tools to remove the tire.
I called the dealer to make a appointment for today, he said it would take 30 mins to do and the charge would $51.
I called the dealer to make a appointment for today, he said it would take 30 mins to do and the charge would $51.
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z643167z (05-18-2015)
#18
Pro
The plastic shroud has a 'wing' portion that goes up into the wheel well for each side, but you don't need to take off the wheel. It helps to, but it's not necessary.
#19
TSX AMG Type //M i-VVT
#20
9th Gear
I just bought a 2010 TSX that was/is missing the bottom engine shield. I got a new one and last night changed the oil and was going to put on the new shield. For the life of me I could not figure out what holes to use or where those wings go up in the wheel well. Does any one have instructions on how to install it? Having never seen one installed I could not figure it out.
#21
Pro
The wings should go up into each front wheel well, and the middle of the shrowd should match itself to the front bumper's under shrowd.
If the rest of your under shrowds are still in place (front bumper, fender liners), the undercarriage shrowd should pretty much touch those and make it look like it's one connect piece under there.
If the rest of your under shrowds are still in place (front bumper, fender liners), the undercarriage shrowd should pretty much touch those and make it look like it's one connect piece under there.
#22
I just bought a 2010 TSX that was/is missing the bottom engine shield. I got a new one and last night changed the oil and was going to put on the new shield. For the life of me I could not figure out what holes to use or where those wings go up in the wheel well. Does any one have instructions on how to install it? Having never seen one installed I could not figure it out.
#23
9th Gear
If my under engine cover was this easy I would not be asking this question. Mine has wings on it that apparently go up in the wheel wells. I have not had a chance to get back under the car yet but another post talked about mine and had some suggestions that I will check out. This is not the first car I have owned that have an under engine cover but this is the most difficult one to work with. But buying the car used with it missing you have no hint on how it should attach.
#24
Unregistered Member
I'm pretty sure the shield for $151 that was linked is a two piece deal. The bottom portion is held on by 6 or 7 bolts. I did the last oil change on my tsx this weekend and it was the same as in the video.
#25
9th Gear
I am new to the TSX so do not know for sure but I ordered the undercover from an Acura Warehouse using the VIN of my car. I have since looked on a couple of different parts places and all reference the same part number. The cover I have is for sure a one piece unit with a silver medal part in the middle but it does not come apart at all. A poster above ‘Ulrblitzer’ also talked about this type of cover and the wings that are attached on the front edge. I can only assume that sometime in the 2010 year they changed the undercover. I can only wish I had the cover you talk and that I have seen in a uTube video it would be much easier and is obviously easer to deal with than the one I have. The part number of my shield is Cover Assy., Engine (Lower)
JH4CU2F65AC009672 [TSX | 2010
JH4CU2F65AC009672 [TSX | 2010
#26
Pro
Does it look like the part # I linked in on post #5 above?
If so, the part that is being removed in the youtube oil change video is just the metal portion of the undercarriage cover. The wing and front lip or 1/3rd are all plastic and are not removed during an oil change. It's pretty easy to see where all of that mounts under the car.
Make sure the old plastic shrowd is not on the car. Take the new plastic shrowding under the car. Take the metal tray off to make it easier to manuever. The front mounts on the cross member. You should see a bunch of holes for clips to go in. The wings tuck into the wheel wells. Plug in more plastic clips wherever you see holes. The plastic portion goes toward the front of the car, the metal tray is the back half.
You did buy the plastic clips right? Ebay has them for cheap.
If so, the part that is being removed in the youtube oil change video is just the metal portion of the undercarriage cover. The wing and front lip or 1/3rd are all plastic and are not removed during an oil change. It's pretty easy to see where all of that mounts under the car.
Make sure the old plastic shrowd is not on the car. Take the new plastic shrowding under the car. Take the metal tray off to make it easier to manuever. The front mounts on the cross member. You should see a bunch of holes for clips to go in. The wings tuck into the wheel wells. Plug in more plastic clips wherever you see holes. The plastic portion goes toward the front of the car, the metal tray is the back half.
You did buy the plastic clips right? Ebay has them for cheap.
#28
9th Gear
Sorry just got back from summer vacation. I did pull the cover out in the daylight and took a long look at it. I stand corrected the middle of the cover does come off. I have not had a chance to put the car up and look under it to see how the cover is attached. Once it is in it looks like you only have to take out the middle part to change the oil. I will try and take a picture this weekend and post it on Monday.
#29
9th Gear
Bottom engine shield for 2010 TSX. Came in a box the edges are folded over the front ones go up in the wheel well.<br/>
Bottom engine shield for 2010 TSX. This is looking at it from the bottom, the silver part comes off.
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forward (02-22-2020)
#30
74110-tl2-a00 cover assy, engine (splash guard)
Hi All,
3 questions:
1) Just wondering if anyone else is breaking their engine splash guards in the same way that I am: The (POS) threaded metal crimps that are attached to the plastic bend/twist the plastic before I can loosen the screws to lower to shield for engine oil and ATF changes.... so every time I change the oil or ATF, I make the polyethylene that the crimp is smashed onto just a little weaker... and today I broke the plastic around the last metal crimp holding one side on. I made the original guard last a while by using high-temp anti-sieze on the screw threads when I put them back in, but doing this every time I change the oil (4x a year+ 1/year for ATF fluid) gets old quick.
So for now I said forget it, I'll drive w/o a splash guard.
2) Does anyone know of a good aftermarket guard? Or better yet, an ALL METAL guard? I'd like one that I am not trashing every 50-100k miles. I'd be happy to pay 2-3x as much if it lasted the life of the car and I didn't have to worry about breaking it every time I took it off.
3) If no metal or better quality guard is available, does anyone have an opinion on best way to keep the screws + metal crimps from binding between oil changes? Maybe instead of anti-seize, bearing grease or similar? Anyone tried alternative plated hardware (black cadmium or something?). I'm probably guilty of over-torquing these screws as well, but I'd rather break them than loose them down the road. Especially since the guard is a flimsy POS anyway and is probably subject to a lot of vibration.
3 questions:
1) Just wondering if anyone else is breaking their engine splash guards in the same way that I am: The (POS) threaded metal crimps that are attached to the plastic bend/twist the plastic before I can loosen the screws to lower to shield for engine oil and ATF changes.... so every time I change the oil or ATF, I make the polyethylene that the crimp is smashed onto just a little weaker... and today I broke the plastic around the last metal crimp holding one side on. I made the original guard last a while by using high-temp anti-sieze on the screw threads when I put them back in, but doing this every time I change the oil (4x a year+ 1/year for ATF fluid) gets old quick.
So for now I said forget it, I'll drive w/o a splash guard.
2) Does anyone know of a good aftermarket guard? Or better yet, an ALL METAL guard? I'd like one that I am not trashing every 50-100k miles. I'd be happy to pay 2-3x as much if it lasted the life of the car and I didn't have to worry about breaking it every time I took it off.
3) If no metal or better quality guard is available, does anyone have an opinion on best way to keep the screws + metal crimps from binding between oil changes? Maybe instead of anti-seize, bearing grease or similar? Anyone tried alternative plated hardware (black cadmium or something?). I'm probably guilty of over-torquing these screws as well, but I'd rather break them than loose them down the road. Especially since the guard is a flimsy POS anyway and is probably subject to a lot of vibration.
#31
Pro
Power down Hulk.
I notice mine can be tough to loosen once in a while from the road grime and winter salt, but not the issues you're having. I have been contemplating replacing all the metal hardware with some stainless so they dont rust up and bind so easily.
I don't believe there are any aftermarket solutions unless you want to DIY your own skid plate replacement.
I notice mine can be tough to loosen once in a while from the road grime and winter salt, but not the issues you're having. I have been contemplating replacing all the metal hardware with some stainless so they dont rust up and bind so easily.
I don't believe there are any aftermarket solutions unless you want to DIY your own skid plate replacement.
#32
Dealer "lost" mine at the last service i went to. Some dumb tech thought he could pull a fast one and be lazy, and not put it back on after an oil change. Took me about 2 weeks to notice when i opened up the hood to check my fluid levels.
After several complaints i got the dealer to order me a new one at no cost, should be there soon for replacement. I live in Canada, so i think its a must to have during the winter.
After several complaints i got the dealer to order me a new one at no cost, should be there soon for replacement. I live in Canada, so i think its a must to have during the winter.
#33
Intermediate
Hi Guys,
Hate to revive an old thread but I recently purchased a 2012 TSX. I had taken the car to my independent Honda/Acura shop to have the transmission fluid changed, and they had told me that there were unable to remove the metal section of the lower engine shield because the pan head phillips screws were seized up and almost stripped. Has anybody ever encountered this issue before on their 09+ TSX? What's interesting to me is that the previous owner had given me an invoice for an oil change he just had done at the local Honda dealer right before selling me the car. It would seem to me that there would be no way to change the oil without removing this shield so either 1.) Honda has a different way of changing oil/filter without shield removal 2.) Honda was able to some how remove the shield succesfully or 3) My independent shop is doing something wrong. I tend not to think #3 is likely as I have taken my Hondas there for many years and they are well respected. Basically my shop told me that they could cut the shield to get access but then I'd have to purchase a new shield from Acura ($230 locally and $150 online). Is there any other options that I could do? If the pan head screws are truly seized, could they be cut or removed some other way without damaging the shield? I'd hate to replace the shield just because of this issue. Also I noticed in Bentz's pic above, there are black pan head screws securing the metal shield to the plastic section but in the youtube video also posted above, the guy mentions 7 10mm hex bolts. Perhaps this guy replaced his screws with bolts for this reason?
Thanks
Josh
Hate to revive an old thread but I recently purchased a 2012 TSX. I had taken the car to my independent Honda/Acura shop to have the transmission fluid changed, and they had told me that there were unable to remove the metal section of the lower engine shield because the pan head phillips screws were seized up and almost stripped. Has anybody ever encountered this issue before on their 09+ TSX? What's interesting to me is that the previous owner had given me an invoice for an oil change he just had done at the local Honda dealer right before selling me the car. It would seem to me that there would be no way to change the oil without removing this shield so either 1.) Honda has a different way of changing oil/filter without shield removal 2.) Honda was able to some how remove the shield succesfully or 3) My independent shop is doing something wrong. I tend not to think #3 is likely as I have taken my Hondas there for many years and they are well respected. Basically my shop told me that they could cut the shield to get access but then I'd have to purchase a new shield from Acura ($230 locally and $150 online). Is there any other options that I could do? If the pan head screws are truly seized, could they be cut or removed some other way without damaging the shield? I'd hate to replace the shield just because of this issue. Also I noticed in Bentz's pic above, there are black pan head screws securing the metal shield to the plastic section but in the youtube video also posted above, the guy mentions 7 10mm hex bolts. Perhaps this guy replaced his screws with bolts for this reason?
Thanks
Josh
#34
Instructor
Hi Guys,
Hate to revive an old thread but I recently purchased a 2012 TSX. I had taken the car to my independent Honda/Acura shop to have the transmission fluid changed, and they had told me that there were unable to remove the metal section of the lower engine shield because the pan head phillips screws were seized up and almost stripped. Has anybody ever encountered this issue before on their 09+ TSX? What's interesting to me is that the previous owner had given me an invoice for an oil change he just had done at the local Honda dealer right before selling me the car. It would seem to me that there would be no way to change the oil without removing this shield so either 1.) Honda has a different way of changing oil/filter without shield removal 2.) Honda was able to some how remove the shield succesfully or 3) My independent shop is doing something wrong. I tend not to think #3 is likely as I have taken my Hondas there for many years and they are well respected. Basically my shop told me that they could cut the shield to get access but then I'd have to purchase a new shield from Acura ($230 locally and $150 online). Is there any other options that I could do? If the pan head screws are truly seized, could they be cut or removed some other way without damaging the shield? I'd hate to replace the shield just because of this issue. Also I noticed in Bentz's pic above, there are black pan head screws securing the metal shield to the plastic section but in the youtube video also posted above, the guy mentions 7 10mm hex bolts. Perhaps this guy replaced his screws with bolts for this reason?
Thanks
Josh
Hate to revive an old thread but I recently purchased a 2012 TSX. I had taken the car to my independent Honda/Acura shop to have the transmission fluid changed, and they had told me that there were unable to remove the metal section of the lower engine shield because the pan head phillips screws were seized up and almost stripped. Has anybody ever encountered this issue before on their 09+ TSX? What's interesting to me is that the previous owner had given me an invoice for an oil change he just had done at the local Honda dealer right before selling me the car. It would seem to me that there would be no way to change the oil without removing this shield so either 1.) Honda has a different way of changing oil/filter without shield removal 2.) Honda was able to some how remove the shield succesfully or 3) My independent shop is doing something wrong. I tend not to think #3 is likely as I have taken my Hondas there for many years and they are well respected. Basically my shop told me that they could cut the shield to get access but then I'd have to purchase a new shield from Acura ($230 locally and $150 online). Is there any other options that I could do? If the pan head screws are truly seized, could they be cut or removed some other way without damaging the shield? I'd hate to replace the shield just because of this issue. Also I noticed in Bentz's pic above, there are black pan head screws securing the metal shield to the plastic section but in the youtube video also posted above, the guy mentions 7 10mm hex bolts. Perhaps this guy replaced his screws with bolts for this reason?
Thanks
Josh
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passmaster16 (07-27-2016)
#35
Intermediate
since you have a 2012 it should have the head screws and not the bolts. From what i learned here, the bolts were prone to rusting/seizing, so honda switched to the screws in the MMC. As for the oil change done before you bought the car, perhaps the dealer removed the old oil by sucking it out from the dipstick, and not replace the filter?
#37
Intermediate
So I took at look at the invoice the previous owner gave me from the Honda dealer and it shows both the oil and filter were replaced. But my independent shop tells me that there are multiple screws on the metal splash shield that are seized up. It just doesn't make any sense as I don't see how the oil filter could be removed without taking that shield off.
#38
Pro
They can write anything they want on the bill - I would lift the car and attempt to take the shield off to take a look. Make sure you properly support the car on jackstands before getting under it (safety first). Then check the state of the oil filter .
#40
Replacement engine shield screws for a 2012 Acura TSX wagon 4cyl
Hello. Hopefully someone can help me locate the proper screws to secure my engine shield for a 2012 TSX wagon. During an oil change the crew either got careless or was just plain lazy and failed to replace the screws that had been removed. They only left 2 screws in the front and then used 4 zip ties to hold it in place. I noticed the problem sometime later when one of the zip ties loosened up and left one corner hanging almost to the ground. I have been searching the internet off and on but seem to keep getting pointed to some bolts or plastic push type retainers. I'd like to use the same type of screws that had been used previously unless the forum thinks there is a better option. So I suppose I really have a 2 questions. (1) what would the replacement screw stocking number be and (2) would it be worth replacing them with plastic push type retainers or something else. Thank you advance for your assistance.