emergency break failure
emergency break failure
I have a 2009 6-speed tsx and couple weeks ago my car was parked at work and rolled into the tire of a thing called a boom lift. The emergency break was fully on. I went to the acura dealer and they said everything was normal. We checked the emergency break in a few tsx's at the dealer and noticed that they were all pulled very tight and when the break is released it jiggles when you touch it. I was just wondering if anyone else noticed this about their car or if mine was just a freak accident.
When I park, I always apply the brake first, then after the engine is shut off I return the stick to any gear before I get out.
So, the only way I'd know if the brake was loose would be if when I returned, took it out of gear, and started the car and it started rolling with the handle still pulled up. I'd recommend doing the same thing, it's like a backup for the brake, it won't roll (unless you park on a hill in San Francisco) if it's in gear.
"I drive a lot of rental cars, and they all have emergency brakes. Since the cars are all different, I never know where the E-brake is. They shouldn't call it an emergency brake...they should call it a make-your-car-smell-funny-lever." - - -Mitch Hedberg
So, the only way I'd know if the brake was loose would be if when I returned, took it out of gear, and started the car and it started rolling with the handle still pulled up. I'd recommend doing the same thing, it's like a backup for the brake, it won't roll (unless you park on a hill in San Francisco) if it's in gear.
"I drive a lot of rental cars, and they all have emergency brakes. Since the cars are all different, I never know where the E-brake is. They shouldn't call it an emergency brake...they should call it a make-your-car-smell-funny-lever." - - -Mitch Hedberg
Yeah, I try to do that...but sometimes I don't. Its just unfortunate. Whenever I try to get acura to deal with me, they call it a "parking assist break" and I understand, But I wasn't even on a hill and I paid a lot of money for the car (well, I think it was a lot) and I expect the break to hold at least on flat surface. its kinda made my liking for acura go down the drain...thanks for you advice. I will definitely try to keep it in gear all the time!
And to the OP, ya best to just leave it in gear to be on the safe side. It sucks royally that Acura won't work with you though. You'd think they'd want to bend over backwards for clients with the economy the way it is these days especially since they make most of their money in the service departments.
Yeah, Shadow, I know, it does suck. I was living in Orlando through 05 and had a chance to see him, but forgot about it. In true Tupac fashion, I heard Mitch does have a new CD out, but have yet to go looking for it.
Also HannaHex, pull up the lever a little harder. If you were to see how it's constructed, it's evident you probably couldn't break it if you tried, it's a very stout piece. Plus, the more you use it, the more it adjusts the rear brakes which helps by keeping the rear assist in tune lessening the share of work the fronts have to do. That will decrease the wear on the fronts, stalling rotor warpage and pad replacement.
$.02
Also HannaHex, pull up the lever a little harder. If you were to see how it's constructed, it's evident you probably couldn't break it if you tried, it's a very stout piece. Plus, the more you use it, the more it adjusts the rear brakes which helps by keeping the rear assist in tune lessening the share of work the fronts have to do. That will decrease the wear on the fronts, stalling rotor warpage and pad replacement.
$.02
they, I guess, inspected it, and then drove it and pulled it while they were driving. I was kinda being a stupid girl, because I was so angry with my car and with them. I should have made them test it in front of me, but, of course I didn't, and now it is their word against mine. I know a decent amount about cars, but not much about the emergency break...
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It's uncommon for people to be able to properly use equipment they can't spell....
Trying bringing the car up to 10-15mph, shifting to neutral and pulling on the parking brake lever (in a parking lot where you're not in danger of hitting anyone or anything is best). This should slow down the car noticeably. It will not slow the car as quickly as depressing the brake pedal, but should still show some stopping capabilities. If this has little or no effect on the car's speed (beyond how it would normally slow down in neutral) this is a good basis for proving a defect. The brake that can be actuated from the center console is really there to stop the car from rolling when it's in park, and there have been many attempts to avoid calling it anything like emergency brake...

Trying bringing the car up to 10-15mph, shifting to neutral and pulling on the parking brake lever (in a parking lot where you're not in danger of hitting anyone or anything is best). This should slow down the car noticeably. It will not slow the car as quickly as depressing the brake pedal, but should still show some stopping capabilities. If this has little or no effect on the car's speed (beyond how it would normally slow down in neutral) this is a good basis for proving a defect. The brake that can be actuated from the center console is really there to stop the car from rolling when it's in park, and there have been many attempts to avoid calling it anything like emergency brake...
Well, thanks for the advice. I guess. I will try that before I take it in again. However, maybe in the future it won't be necessary to put the rude comment before the suggestion. I understand that I screwed up and put the wrong BRAKE, but didn't realize I was turning in an english paper that needed to be perfect. I will make a rough draft next time. And I will definitely spell check.
Make a hole, coming thru!
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
In my old Jeep's old manual, it mentioned ALWAYS leaving the car in gear when parked, as the drum brakes weren't enough to "hold" the car on an incline. Also, consider that brakes heat up during use, and when you park, they will cool down. I presume that the metal will contract an eensy bit, resulting it not being as strong a grip as you had when you parked.
I also don't let the ratchet "click" while applying. I depress the button, pull the lever up until I feel a good snug grip, release the button,and let the handle down on the very next stop.
I've heard people suggest leaving your parking brake on snug, but not "tight" so as not to damage the disc/pads. Dunno about that....
Say howdy to Sonoma for me. I used to live/visit my family's cabin west of "Don't call it Gernie-ville" Guerneville.
I also don't let the ratchet "click" while applying. I depress the button, pull the lever up until I feel a good snug grip, release the button,and let the handle down on the very next stop.
I've heard people suggest leaving your parking brake on snug, but not "tight" so as not to damage the disc/pads. Dunno about that....
Say howdy to Sonoma for me. I used to live/visit my family's cabin west of "Don't call it Gernie-ville" Guerneville.
I had the same problem but with my 08 civic Si and one of the big guys from Honda came down inspected my car and one of the clips that holds the ebrake in place was faulty. they replace the hole rear brake assy and didnt have any more issues with it...
I havent seen anything with the tsx at the dealership but would deff update if i get some info on it.
I havent seen anything with the tsx at the dealership but would deff update if i get some info on it.
Nothing like bringing a dead post back, but the parking brake on my 2010 is abysmal. My driveway has a slight incline and when i park and get out it's almost always possible to push the car forward. It's the weakest parking brake ever. Even when you pull it tight i would never park on a real hill and hope that the parking brake does it's job, because it won't.
since the automatic cars dont really need the parking brake, I bet the parking brake is just not adjusted correctly, or not bedded in.
i know this is going to sound blasphemous, but try driving with the parking brake on for a few feet!
this will help "bed" in the pad.
additionally, you can tear out the center console and adjust the parking brake to catch sooner.
i know this is going to sound blasphemous, but try driving with the parking brake on for a few feet!
this will help "bed" in the pad.
additionally, you can tear out the center console and adjust the parking brake to catch sooner.
It's adjusted per the book. Raise the rear of the car, release the brake. Then unloosen the adjusting nut (check). making sure that the metal lever engages at the brake. (check) then pull the lever up one click (check) adjust until there is slight drag on the rotors (check) release brake and check there is no drag (check) parked the car in the driveway, pulled it up about 7 clicks (starts to get stiff after about 3 clicks) and it will roll down the driveway if I use my knee against the rear bumper. That's not right, and as far as bedding in the rear brakes, they were replaced over 10,000 miles ago. How much more bedding do they need? It's just an incredibly weak system to hold a car, and I have a six speed so I have no "Park" to put the car in and I think that the brake should be able to hold the car. Why it doesn't, I have no idea.
OH and anyone needing to adjust it you don't need to tear out anything, just lift up the rubber mat and towards the front under the USB and 12V outlet there is a little panel open it and you have access without removing so much as a single screw.
Saying Tear out would lead anyone to believe that the whole console has to be removed and/or is a big deal. Tear down charges are for laborious items. Whereas removing a simple mat and opening a small trap door, not exactly tearing it out.
same damn thing. except you're going in depth.
while any one with a decent brain could figure out what I meant by "tear out"
like you simply did.
If someone who did not know the procedure, was interested in how to adjust it, telling them they have to tear something apart might have them picturing taking apart the whole console. Which, is not the case. So for anyone who was interested who apparently doesn't have half a brain and possibly thought "tearing it apart" might be more involved than removing a rubber mat and opening a door, well then sorry for clarifying and helping make it easier for those that only have half a brain. Cheers and happy new year.
Nothing like bringing a dead post back, but the parking brake on my 2010 is abysmal. My driveway has a slight incline and when i park and get out it's almost always possible to push the car forward. It's the weakest parking brake ever. Even when you pull it tight i would never park on a real hill and hope that the parking brake does it's job, because it won't.
I adjusted my 10 - its very tight (no slack), but still doesn't hold the car well unless I really pull hard on the handle. I like my wife's electronic park brake...hit the button, done.
My 2010 is weak as hell. But it's a V6 so auto only. I fear jacking up the front with only the e-brake on though, it's such a piece that I absolutely need chocks anytime I do work. Also the previous comment about bedding it in- it seems as if you have a TL, from what I know from working on my friend's TL the parking brake is a drum inside the rotor. For us TSXers, it is a mechanism that activates the main rear pads. Bedding in has nothing to do with it. I think it's just weak.
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