I've had my 2010 i4 for about a month. Over this past week I've noticed a muted clunk that seems to be coming from the rear passenger side. I've unloaded anything from the trunk, glove box, center console just in case it may be coming from there. Not the problem. So far I'm unable to consistently replicate the clunking, but it does seem to happen more when the car moves forward/backward as in braking, with or without the use of the brake. Guess I'll have to take her in for a look see. Any suggestions on what may be causing this?

 

Is it a ping from the engine?

 

same crap that owners reported in their 2009's. I think it's so funny that people argue that everything's been fixed in the 2010's. I see no anecdotal evidence that proves it.

It's the usual 'creaks and clunks' that I hear in my 2009. I still stand by my claim that it's not engine pinging.

 

No, it's not a ping from the engine. So far, so good on not hearing that. A friend also heard it and described it as a knock, probably a better description, on the passenger side somewhere from the middle to the rear. (Heard it in both places.) Makes me wonder if something is loose underneath.

 

Is the sun shade for the sunroof open or closed? I've picked up a noise when the sunshade is open and tapping on the roof liner

 

Sunroof shade is closed. Argh, will schedule an appointment.

 

exactly as how I would describe the issue on my 2009...

 

OP, have you looked insinde the spare tire well to see if your wheel lock (most dealers install them during the Pre Delivery Inspection as a non-optional add-on) is rolling back & forth?

I would look at all that stuff and the jack mounting, lug wrench mounting, etc.

 

Yepper, checked spare tire, etc. Not it. I noticed today a 40 pound container on the far passenger side of the trunk closest to the trunk opening, made the noise move evident. The shock?

Also, now noticing an inconsistent rattle behind the dash, mostly on the passenger side. But have also heard it behind the center stack and instrument sections. Took everything out of the glove and center stack
compartments...still rattles. Man...what next?

I'm not happy with a near luxury vehicle having these problems within 1 month of ownership. As a matter of fact, none of my Japanese vehicles experienced anything like this, including the '07 RDX I leased. That's a history of over 23 years. Yikes! I hope these aren't telltale signs of a lemon.

Have an appointment Thursday afternoon. Sounds like someone from service will ride with me. And you know what that usually means...everything will sound normal. Cross your fingers.

 

iv had a bunch of hondas and acuras over the past 7-8 years and they all creaked and rattled here and there.

and btw, i know what your talking about with the muted clunk coming from the passenger side. it feels like its coming from inside the chassis, so i doubt we can fix it. it can be a little annoying..

 

I will probably jinx myself by stating this, but either I'm deaf or by happenstance wound up with a Wednesday car, as I don't have any abnormal suspension on unibody gremlins.

If a 40lb ballast made a significant difference when placed on that side of the car I would check the strut itself for seepage (over compressed, like on a car carrier) , spring perch seat location (where the terminus of the pigtail on the spring is seated) and other associated suspension mounting points *with the suspension loaded.* (i.e. Not hanging on a 4 point lift with the suspension in full droop/extension, but rather on a 'drive on' lift like an alignment rack at rest.) Then check all trailing/control arm, strut locator and sway bar mounts for being loose.

I recently did some work on a 350Z. I inherited it after it was blown apart by a 1/2 ass shop here locally. The front lower control arm rear main pivot stud nuts must be removed in order to remove the lower K member brace and, in turn, the transmission. On reassembly, those nuts were torqued to spec yet made a fairly pronounced thunk/crack until they were again torqued *with the wheels on the ground.* It took less than 1/4 turn to resolve the issue.

It's not normal. Any tech (read: not an installer) worth their salt will do this following an initial inspection.

 

I've had the intermittent sound coming from the passenger side. I would call it a tapping sound. I thought it was the pen I had in the glove box, but I emptied the box and the center console but the sound still occurred.

It's not definitive, but I narrowed it down to the seat-moving mechanism that's underneath the passenger front seat. In my car there's actually a part that's loose. I don't know what the techs call it, but it's the piece of plastic that wraps around the end of the rail on which the chair slides. On the driver's side, this piece is not loose.

It's difficult to isolate sounds as a single person. Maybe if you could get someone to help you isolate the sound you could find it for sure.

 

Thanks, HD. I'm printing your response and taking it with me Thurday. I'll post the verdict once I know something.

 

Here's the scoop on the noise from the rear passenger side. There are two plates of metal in the rear wheel well that are not properly fitted. When the car is jostled unevenly, the metal plates bang together.

It took the technician less than 30 seconds of driving to know "exactly" what it was. He had it happen on an '09 TSX. The dealership is ordering the shim through Acura which suggests they know it's a problem on some vehicles. The part will be over-nighted with the install taking about 30 minutes. Monday afternoon the noise should be gone.

As far as the dash rattle...I heard something fall behind it on Tuesday morning. Since then I have heard very little rattling and of course it didn't happen with the tech. So, we'll have to wait and see what happens down the road.

 

Good to hear it was something simple, maybe others can benefit from this diagnosis.

If you see the affected area, post some pics if you can.

 

Anyone having the problem with noise in the rear of your car be it passenger side , driver or both sides...there is a TSB by Acura. I got the service guy to make a copy of it for me so I could pass the word along. The following is what is on the paper.
__________________________________________________ ___________

ACURA Service Bulletin 09-019
May 18, 2009
Appies to 2009 TSX - ALL

Popping or Clicking from the Left or Right Rear Jack Point

SYMPTOM
There is a popping or clicking from the left or right rear of the vehicle when driving over bumps or through dips.

PROBABLE CAUSE
As the body flexes, burrs from spot welds in the rear jacking points contact other sheetmetal, causing a popping or clicking noise.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a wedge between the sheetmetal panels (in the inner side sill) that make up the jack point.

REQUIRED MATERIALS
3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive
P/N 3M-08008
(one tube repairs about 20 vehicles)

TOOL INFORMATION
Body Wedge Installation Kit: T/N 07AAD-TL2A140
(includes wedge, installation tool, and acid brush)
NOTE: This tool is available through the special tool loan program.
(Refer to Service Bulletin 98-015, Special Tool Loan Program.)

WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.

OP# Description FRT
8230B3 Rear side will panel (one side). 0.4
A Repair additional side sill panel. 0.4

Failed Part: P/N 65140-TL2-A00ZZ
Defect Code: 02401
Symptom Code: 04201
Skill Level: Repair Technician

Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.

DIAGNOSIS
Connect a ChassisEAR, then test-drive the vehicle to confirm that the noise is comming from the left or right rear jacking point. If needed, refer to Service Bulleting 00-024. Steelman ChassisEAR Diagnostic Tool.
__________________________________________________ _________
Then it goes into the repair procedure for the tech.

Don't know if this helps but in small print there is: BTB 41471 (0905)

Sure hope this helps anyone else having this problem. I have a loaner tonight and will pick up my car tomorrow afternoon.

 

UPDATE: Took the car in for the TSB fix. Dealer kept the car overnight. Picked it up the next day and 5 minutes down the road I began to hear the same noise and called when I got home to set up the next appointment. A week later I took the car back this time the dealer kept it 3 days. After much perserverance and test driving before gluing several wedges, in various places, the noise is gone! Hip, hip, hooray! I give credit to the service department for their attention to correcting the problem with no complaints. In fact, they apologized for my having to return a second time. Now that's what I call service.

 

So it was just the TSB fix? or something else they found..

thanks for the update.

 

Yes, it took two attempts of the TSB fix. The first time being unsuccessful or perhaps just not enough wedges/shims to fully correct the problem. The actual TSB makes it sound like one wedge/shim would fix the knocking problem. Absolutely not true, in my case.

 

Hey guys! I just picked up a 2010 CBP Blk/Blk TSX I had it for about a little over a week now and with in a couple of days when I was cruising with my friend I already heard a rattling noise and I was frustrated because I just traded my 04 nhbp TL for this car and I'm like wow new car and already I hear
rattles in it. So to make a long story short I resolved the problem within a couple of minutes. The rattling was coming from the center area and I just remembered I placed my shades in the compartment above and when I removed them the noise was gone! Simple as that! So just to give you guys some advice about putting your shades in the upper compartment FYI you will hear a rattling sound! I know that there are other sounds coming from other places but for me thank god it was just there! Take it easy guys and Congrats to all of you who got a new TSX and Good Luck to us all!!! Peace out from Hawaii!!!

 

I rolled this up into a PDF from a website that I found online.

The PDF is somewhat pixelated but it should work.

The URL source is cited.

This is your best bet - print and give to your Acura tech!

http://home.comcast.net/~ressling/Ac...B%2009-019.pdf

Cheers,

Ryan

 

The link is perfect. That's the exact copy I received from the dealer when I had the TSB done. Good work!

 

My UK Euro Accord is 6 weeks old now and in that time various rattles and creaks have come and gone on their own. I guess cars need time to settle in.

Two noises which have remained are, 1) fuel rolling around in the tank (audible when first moving off or braking from walking pace) and, 2) the silver 'button' on top of the cup holder lid is very slightly loose and it vibrates all the time the engine is running. At the moment I have a piece of tape stuck over it ... does anyone know how to remove the lid without breaking it???

 

^I have the same problem with the fuel noise, It also occers when I am pulling into and backing out of my driveway.
As for the little silver peice, Im sure it's glued on, and the lid is spring loaded. I have no idea how you would take it out.

Since we are talking about noises, the steering wheel on my 2010 tsx makes a whirling noise, it sounds alot like a force feedback wheel for a racing game. This sound only occer when I am turning into a parking space or backing out of one. It only happens when I quickly turn the wheel.

Is this normal, has anyone else experienced this noise?

Thanks

 

Pretty sure that's a normal noise. I know what you're talking about. Sounds almost like a person stringing along a zip cord (woooohooo!)

I believe it's just the power steering system. Probably nothing to worry about.

 

Steering wheel noise, check, got it, not a biggie for me anymore.

 

The steering noise you hear at low speed is the electric PAS motor

 

Thanks...

 

I hate my 2010 tsx. This is the last Acura I'll ever by. Its a real piece of crap.
Compared to my 2001 CL-P which was great, the TSX is so noisy it is very fatiguing to drive on normal interstates with slightly worn asphalt such as I90 & I87 in upstate NY. The cabin resonates with road noise so loud it gives me a headache. I have to turn the stereo up to uncomfortable levels just to hear it. BTW the stereo is no match for the Bose unit in the CL-P also.

My CL-P had 205/60/16 MXVR S8 tires on it so maybe that is part of the reason it was better. I might try swapping the wheels/tires between the CL-P and TSX to see if it improves things. I run the advised 33 psi in these tires so that is not the issue.

The ride is to stiff and the steering doesn't naturally stay on center and the steering ratio is to quick. The wheelbase needs a few more inches. The seats have to sharp of a lumbar support.

The last time Acura new how to design a car was 2003. Since then they have put the cars on steroids which is a mistake. Why do I want to drive a race car. What I want is a sporty luxury car.

 

Good to be half-deaf

 

I also am starting to distain my 2010 TSX w/ tech. Speakers keep blowing, and they have yet to issue a revised part. They are unable to fix the "loose change" noise in the rear (tried wedge TSB, and replaced both rear shocks). The brakes are total shit, already replaced at ~ 6k miles, and now at 13k, they are making a noise again and the dealer says its normal.... The rear speaker deck had to be fixed because of squeeking. The drivers door handle had to be replaced because it would stick, and now it's starting to act up again. I have had to take the car in for warranty work at least 6-7 times, and still have unresolved issues, and I've only owned the car for 10 months. I'm very frustrated with the level of quality in this "luxury" car, and I can't see myself ever buying another Honda product. As soon as I have a nice chunk of equity, I'm getting rid of it.