RaskyR1's 2012 TSX SE, 6spd, BWP
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
RaskyR1's 2012 TSX SE, 6spd, BWP
I flew out to KS last week and picked up my new TSX and then drove back the 455 miles to MN. My previous car was an '08 TSX with an auto and I love this car so much more with the 6spd!
Some pics
BUGS!
All cleaned up
Rasky
Some pics
BUGS!
All cleaned up
Rasky
The following users liked this post:
tommystyle86 (05-10-2012)
#3
That is one nice looking car. BWP looks pretty good. Congrats!
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks! I do high end detailing on the side and I feel it's very important to have a clean shop.
Thanks! I'd like to see PWP next to BWP so I can see the difference. I love the mods you have done to yours, bet you hate having to sell it.
Thanks! I'd like to see PWP next to BWP so I can see the difference. I love the mods you have done to yours, bet you hate having to sell it.
#6
Nice car. The SE's are getting quite popular around here.
And thats alot of bugs.
And thats alot of bugs.
Trending Topics
#9
Congratulations. The SE in BWP looks awesome. Poor bugs.
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#11
I have to comment again, the car looks too good. I love the rear-end.
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
widdiam (05-14-2012)
#18
this thread makes me regret not waiting for the special edition...nice car...i'm jealous
#19
Just checked out your site..it looks legit! I book marked it so I can read up on all those guides. Have you heard of sonax wheel cleaner? opinions?
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
For the most part, leather care is pretty simple IMO. Clean often with water based cleaners (Leather Masters Strong Cleaner) and use a protector (Leather Masters Protection Cream). 99% of the stuff you find on the shelves at auto parts stores is junk and will actually attract more dust and dirt, thus speeding up the wear of you leather. Almost all of today's cars have coated leather and do not need lotions or conditioners to keep them soft. Regular cleaning with water based cleaners is all that is needed to keep the leather hydrated.
FYI. There is a LOT of conflicting information on the web between leather care manufactures. The above information is the route I chose to believe in after reading several leather debates on the detailing forums. The above cleaners leave your leather looking and feeling like new. The protection cream helps prevent dye transfer too.
Sonax is good stuff and I use it often. It smells terrible though and I think I'm going to go back to P21S Gel instead. They cost the same for me and work equally as well, P21S just smells better. The color change is cool with Sonax at first but after a while I started to hate seeing a pool of blood running down the driveway. Also, I hate the sprayer on Sonax bottle and I just buy the 5L size and use a different one.
For my own car all my wheels see is soap and water. Clean often and you won't need a wheel cleaner.
Last edited by RaskyR1; 05-14-2012 at 02:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
robpp (05-14-2012)
#21
Instructor
For the most part, leather care is pretty simple IMO. Clean often with water based cleaners (Leather Masters Strong Cleaner) and use a protector (Leather Masters Protection Cream). 99% of the stuff you find on the shelves at auto parts stores is junk and will actually attract more dust and dirt, thus speeding up the wear of you leather. Almost all of today's cars have coated leather and do not need lotions or conditioners to keep them soft. Regular cleaning with water based cleaners is all that is needed to keep the leather hydrated.
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
this may be a dumb noob question, but are the sides of the SE seats leather? I ask because on my previous RSX, i heard that only the middle section of the RSX seat was leather and the sides weren't. Seeing as most of the SE seat is suede, just wondering if those products you mentioned will work.
Last edited by RaskyR1; 05-15-2012 at 09:19 AM.
The following users liked this post:
EzeE1o (05-15-2012)
#24
Advanced
After reading a lot on your site, it seems like even though the sides aren't leather, you can still use a product like the one you mentioned or Optimum Leather Protectant on it anyways? Am I wrong on this or would you recommend another product mentioned on the site such as the 303 aerospace protectant?
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
#25
#26
After reading a lot on your site, it seems like even though the sides aren't leather, you can still use a product like the one you mentioned or Optimum Leather Protectant on it anyways? Am I wrong on this or would you recommend another product mentioned on the site such as the 303 aerospace protectant?
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
Much of the wrinkly look can be minimized by cleaning the leather. There are two schools of thought and neither is right or wrong.
One thought favors products like Leatherique - a two step process that takes lots of time and yields excellent results. The theory here is to first condition the leather to force the dirt to the surface and then to remove it. This works better on older, well worn leathers.
The other method is to use products like LeatherMaster to remove dirt and to seal the leather further by using protectant after it is clean. This works very well on modern car leathers.
Dirt (and excessive moisture) is the enemy of leather.
First vacuum the leather, paying particular attention to seams.
Clean - using a brush or a cotton cloth infused with a bit of product
Protect - using a fresh cotton cloth again with very little product.
Some manufacturers (Mercedes for example) warn against using man made microfiber cloths on both MB-Tex (Mercedes vinyl) or leather.
The following users liked this post:
JordanTSX (05-15-2012)
#27
Intermediate
Thread Starter
After reading a lot on your site, it seems like even though the sides aren't leather, you can still use a product like the one you mentioned or Optimum Leather Protectant on it anyways? Am I wrong on this or would you recommend another product mentioned on the site such as the 303 aerospace protectant?
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
I just want to fix my seats Only at 40K and they're all scuffed on the bolsters and wrinkly like grandpa balls on the seat sides
Here is my '08 TSX after 4 years and 55k miles (sale pics). I had used some other products early on when it was new that I won't use today, but they still held up pretty well IMO.
Most leather care products will also remove dirt from vinyl/naugahyde/leatherette/pleather etc.
Much of the wrinkly look can be minimized by cleaning the leather. There are two schools of thought and neither is right or wrong.
One thought favors products like Leatherique - a two step process that takes lots of time and yields excellent results. The theory here is to first condition the leather to force the dirt to the surface and then to remove it. This works better on older, well worn leathers.
The other method is to use products like LeatherMaster to remove dirt and to seal the leather further by using protectant after it is clean. This works very well on modern car leathers.
Dirt (and excessive moisture) is the enemy of leather.
First vacuum the leather, paying particular attention to seams.
Clean - using a brush or a cotton cloth infused with a bit of product
Protect - using a fresh cotton cloth again with very little product.
Some manufacturers (Mercedes for example) warn against using man made microfiber cloths on both MB-Tex (Mercedes vinyl) or leather.
Much of the wrinkly look can be minimized by cleaning the leather. There are two schools of thought and neither is right or wrong.
One thought favors products like Leatherique - a two step process that takes lots of time and yields excellent results. The theory here is to first condition the leather to force the dirt to the surface and then to remove it. This works better on older, well worn leathers.
The other method is to use products like LeatherMaster to remove dirt and to seal the leather further by using protectant after it is clean. This works very well on modern car leathers.
Dirt (and excessive moisture) is the enemy of leather.
First vacuum the leather, paying particular attention to seams.
Clean - using a brush or a cotton cloth infused with a bit of product
Protect - using a fresh cotton cloth again with very little product.
Some manufacturers (Mercedes for example) warn against using man made microfiber cloths on both MB-Tex (Mercedes vinyl) or leather.
The following users liked this post:
JordanTSX (05-15-2012)
#29
#30
#31
Advanced
and Dave's usage of your/you're shows some grammatical skills as well.
None the less, that tsx looks immaculate. I have some sort of dye transfer going on on the outside bolsters of both front seats. Is a one step process like leather master going to be able to treat this some? I'm all about a 1-step over a 2-step treatment if they're both near equaly effective. I wouldn't really consider my seats dirty as much as just wrinkly.
Sounds like Rasky and Ceb are the goto guys for leather care. Great to know. Thanks for the tips both of you.
None the less, that tsx looks immaculate. I have some sort of dye transfer going on on the outside bolsters of both front seats. Is a one step process like leather master going to be able to treat this some? I'm all about a 1-step over a 2-step treatment if they're both near equaly effective. I wouldn't really consider my seats dirty as much as just wrinkly.
Sounds like Rasky and Ceb are the goto guys for leather care. Great to know. Thanks for the tips both of you.
#32
and Dave's usage of your/you're shows some grammatical skills as well.
None the less, that tsx looks immaculate. I have some sort of dye transfer going on on the outside bolsters of both front seats. Is a one step process like leather master going to be able to treat this some? I'm all about a 1-step over a 2-step treatment if they're both near equaly effective. I wouldn't really consider my seats dirty as much as just wrinkly.
Sounds like Rasky and Ceb are the goto guys for leather care. Great to know. Thanks for the tips both of you.
None the less, that tsx looks immaculate. I have some sort of dye transfer going on on the outside bolsters of both front seats. Is a one step process like leather master going to be able to treat this some? I'm all about a 1-step over a 2-step treatment if they're both near equaly effective. I wouldn't really consider my seats dirty as much as just wrinkly.
Sounds like Rasky and Ceb are the goto guys for leather care. Great to know. Thanks for the tips both of you.
PS: "Nonetheless" is one word Grammar Nazi
#33
Advanced
touche
I think I'm going to be getting some Lexol and Leathermasters eventually after this conversation. Maybe I'll do a write up with a comparison with pictures of each product for other people if anyone's in the same boat as me - really confused by all the different leather products and accepting everything I have so far is BS.
I think I'm going to be getting some Lexol and Leathermasters eventually after this conversation. Maybe I'll do a write up with a comparison with pictures of each product for other people if anyone's in the same boat as me - really confused by all the different leather products and accepting everything I have so far is BS.
#34
Intermediate
Thread Starter
touche
I think I'm going to be getting some Lexol and Leathermasters eventually after this conversation. Maybe I'll do a write up with a comparison with pictures of each product for other people if anyone's in the same boat as me - really confused by all the different leather products and accepting everything I have so far is BS.
I think I'm going to be getting some Lexol and Leathermasters eventually after this conversation. Maybe I'll do a write up with a comparison with pictures of each product for other people if anyone's in the same boat as me - really confused by all the different leather products and accepting everything I have so far is BS.
I'd skip the Lexol if it were me and just get the Leather Masters...I never cared much for Lexol. LM makes a product specific for dye transfer too. Keep in mind the longer it's on there the harder it is to remove. The Protection Cream will help prevent the dye from setting in and eases the removal of it when it comes time to clean again. Think of the Protection cream as a sacrificial barrier, sort of a "Scotch Guard" type product that sits on the surface of the top coat.
Rasky
#35
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Age: 46
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
4 Posts
Sorry for the thread drift, but as a fellow SE owner, do you have any recommendations on what to use (if anything) on the synthetic suede, and how to keep it looking good? Any special care or techniques needed for it?
Thanks, and congrats on the car!
Thanks, and congrats on the car!
#36
Cleaning Alcantara
Although the stuff Hoda uses is probably not Alcantara, it should be close enough.
#37
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I tried Scotch Guard first but the material is color fast with that product and I don't recommend using it. There are other, and probably better products out there, however they have to be purchased at specialty stores like Jon-Don. I just happened to have this stuff on hand and thought I'd try it out.
CEB's info is what I'd go with though for regular care. The material seem pretty durable compared to the 8thgen Civic Si Alcantera.
#38
#39
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yeah, I hope it stays looking nice. It actually reminds me of the materials Honda used in the late 80's....we'll see I guess!
#40
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
SICK !!!
you kept the old TSX immaculately clean....and i bet you will with the new SE !!!
you kept the old TSX immaculately clean....and i bet you will with the new SE !!!