F1 Style Paddle Shifters
#43
<p><br />Yeah for real though, it probably only cost them $12 for actual parts. The amount of time and effort to ship internationally sounds like it's more money than it's worth. I mean.. think how much time it's going to take to actually get the parts back, evaluate the parts, sort the parts, re-stock the parts, list the parts as "open box" and re-ship the parts...</p><p> </p><p>Seems like profit is low for them to ask for it back, especially all the way from China!</p>
#45
<p>Machining? More like forming/extrusion and punching. Much better for small part/high volume production. Especially aluminum. Anyways.. doesn't even matter haha they still asked for it back. Look forward to seeing the new ones.</p>
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iCrap (08-22-2015)
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richyrich1988 (08-26-2015)
#50
icrap, if you make yours one thing I noticed is the + paddle one our cars has grooved lines behind the paddle so you can differentiate between the + and - by feel. Is it too much work to have yours the same? Not a huge deal either way.
#53
<p>Just curious, not tryna be a jerk lol. Why would one want to differentiate between the + and - by feel? We know the right one is upshift and left one is downshift. </p>
#55
<p></p><p> </p><p>They are connected to wheel, so when the wheel turns so do the paddles, so you can feel which is +/- even if the wheel is upside-down</p>
#56
<p>Good point, I forgotten about that. But even still, when cornering and wanting to shift, isn't it already intuitive to already know at that point in time which paddle is which? I never thought to myself, "shit, is the paddle at 9 o'clock up or down?!"</p>
Last edited by xtcnrice; 08-27-2015 at 10:30 AM.
#57
Like Joe said when turning I find it helpful so you don't have to think about which one is which since the positions have reversed.
#58
<p>IMO it takes longer to "feel out" the + vs the -. For me I just know which one is which based on how much I've turned. For me anyway, I find the +/- to really just be cosmetic detail. But if it helps you identify which button shifts up/down then it definitely sounds useful for some.</p>
#60
I printed in in fugly blue so i don't waste the black, but the final one will be black....
still wanna adjust the shape. maybe ill make it pointy or something lol\
ignore the top bit not fitting the paddle correctly, i already fixed that in rev 2
still wanna adjust the shape. maybe ill make it pointy or something lol\
ignore the top bit not fitting the paddle correctly, i already fixed that in rev 2
#61
Some unsolicited comments:
One of the first things I thought about when I saw this originally is that the way it attaches just seems cheap to me. If I were making these, I'd do one of two things; either make a little pocket at the top so that the tip of the top paddle would slip in, say up to or right past the little "-" sign in your picture above. That way you wouldn't need the little set screw at the top like the China design. Then, at the bottom, have a little cover type cap that either clicks in place over the bottom shifter tip and has a retaining screw, or the whole bottom cover is flange screwed in place.
The other possibility would be to have a piece like you have that goes on the back of the stock paddle and then have another piece that covers the entire front of the paddle. Probably flange screwed together from the back (or vice versa) so that all you see from the driver's seat is a clean piece, not the abrupt "snap-on" look of the current design.
Don't know if you care or if that even makes sense but I think that could go a long way to improving the look of these.
One of the first things I thought about when I saw this originally is that the way it attaches just seems cheap to me. If I were making these, I'd do one of two things; either make a little pocket at the top so that the tip of the top paddle would slip in, say up to or right past the little "-" sign in your picture above. That way you wouldn't need the little set screw at the top like the China design. Then, at the bottom, have a little cover type cap that either clicks in place over the bottom shifter tip and has a retaining screw, or the whole bottom cover is flange screwed in place.
The other possibility would be to have a piece like you have that goes on the back of the stock paddle and then have another piece that covers the entire front of the paddle. Probably flange screwed together from the back (or vice versa) so that all you see from the driver's seat is a clean piece, not the abrupt "snap-on" look of the current design.
Don't know if you care or if that even makes sense but I think that could go a long way to improving the look of these.
#62
Well i couple of other ideas i had were
- replace the entire paddle with a new peice... but i couldn't figure out how to easily get the original out without having to take apart the whole wheel, which i really don't want to do
- Have it clip over top and cover the original paddle.. this should be possible but its gonna be really hard to get it right
^ i think that's what your talking about, right?
- replace the entire paddle with a new peice... but i couldn't figure out how to easily get the original out without having to take apart the whole wheel, which i really don't want to do
- Have it clip over top and cover the original paddle.. this should be possible but its gonna be really hard to get it right
^ i think that's what your talking about, right?
#63
Pretty much. Basically, anything to get away from just using those two setscrews to hold it in place. There's got to be a more eloquent design than that; I mean, it works, but there's got to be better.
The more I think about it, from an aesthetics point of view, I think having the big piece (like you designed, and the current design) attach to the front side would look best. Then just have a smaller rear piece sandwich the OEM paddle in place.
Whatever approach, I think you'd want a firm, positive attachment feature and not just rely on a snap clip friction fit. I'd design in a minimum of two screws, trying for four (two top, two bottom) to hold it all together.
If you get the tolerances right, you should be able to include a small "-" and "+" cutout (or just a circle would work) over the illuminated portion of the OEM paddles.
The more I think about it, from an aesthetics point of view, I think having the big piece (like you designed, and the current design) attach to the front side would look best. Then just have a smaller rear piece sandwich the OEM paddle in place.
Whatever approach, I think you'd want a firm, positive attachment feature and not just rely on a snap clip friction fit. I'd design in a minimum of two screws, trying for four (two top, two bottom) to hold it all together.
If you get the tolerances right, you should be able to include a small "-" and "+" cutout (or just a circle would work) over the illuminated portion of the OEM paddles.
#66
That was the #1 thing I thought was wrong with the design. It made me cringe when I saw the initial picture with the setscrew run up to the paddle. There must be a better way that doesn't cause damage to the OEM pieces. That's why I like the sandwich idea, there shouldn't be any damage that way.
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VR1 (09-08-2015)
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