Alright. As promised, here are the dyno results for the 2nd Gen Acura TSX 4 Cyl with the very basic mods. I hope this will give you all a better sense of what you are getting out of your vehicles with the same or similar setups or what you can expect to achieve when starting the modding process.

The only engine mods are the CT-Engineering Carbon Icebox, P2R Ported Intake Runners, P2R Downpipe w/ Cat Delete, and the P2R Throttle Body Spacer.

It was 86 degrees at 78% humidity and only slightlty above sea level. Shell 93 Octane gas used with no oil or fuel additives. Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. Vehicle had 17.5k miles at this time and approximately 350 miles with all the mods done to allow the ecu to adjust. Tire pressure was 32 on both front tires (according to TPMS) and 35 on my hand-held tire gauge.

Pics of the dyno results here...

http://s1217.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMG_2382.jpg

You can find the video of the dyno run here...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWgoDD2OfZU

Feel free to check out the machine gun video too while yer at it. Kinda fun but the guy shooting sucks. I know. I was there. lol!

 

Oh yeah, one more thing... It doesn't exactly show it but when they were looking at it on the computer it came up with 168.2 ft/lbs torque as the max and that was during the 174.5HP run. They dropped the third run from the printout which was the worst one at 166HP.

 

That is cool. I was always curious as to what mods I may be interested in doing. I have been searching for an ECU program, but as we know they don't exist. Looks like you got some good stuff going there for not that much money if you think about it. Thanks!

 

hey tannis, i forgot, is your tsx a stick or the slushbox?

wonder what the base run is for tsx to see how mcuh HP/tq you gained from these mods!

 

^ Hard to say ed.

If you look at a K&N test with 2nd gear to 5400rpm, they show 135hp. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...aLbNUmoqSOLxGQ

The other website shows 179hp

http://www.vtec.net/articles/article.../09TSX_6MT.gif

 

Ah shit... Sorry. That is important. That is on an Auto! Thanks for the reminder.

 

In order to accurately measure power gained from bolt on's, you would have to do before and after runs on the same dyno. All dynos read different. Some will read higher and some will read lower.

 

Some questions
1. How much HP you have before the mods or whats on the list?
2. which model is your car CU1 or CU2?
3. Auto or manual?
The CU1 has 156HP in Germany so you have 18 more HP with that little mods. That is great! If your motors are the same as in Euroland
I have a CU2 with 201 HP Automatic, it was dynoed last week with only 172 HP. Some people told me you cannot dyno a automatic correctly
I ask because I had the same mods in mind, without the Icebox - too expensive for me, ut on my wish list.LOL

 

In the US, we only have the CU2

 

No kidding. Point here was to get an estimate. No two identical vehicles will put identical power to the ground at any given time. So to do a before and after becomes a moot point very quickly especially for a low power application like this. We all know the car in an auto configuration will put ~160 to the wheels. Even if I dyno'd baseline it wouldn't mean jack to anyone else. That is why I provided the information I did with the modifications so you can derive an estimate for yourself. Are you going to argue with yourself on a particular part over 1-2HP? No. That is also why I didn't do it separately with each part. It isn't a significant enough gain to warrant me shelling out $85 a run to give you more "accurate" results. I did this as a service for the most part to others that may wish to mod in the same direction and wonder what they might gain. I'm really trying not to be a drag here or bitch about little shit like this but c'mon man, I'm only trying to help. Take it or leave it.

 

well that's no 201

 

How many HP has your CU2?
The Euro CU2 is selling with 201HP or 148kw. Torque is 230-234Nm. Motorcode is K24Z3
The Euro CU1 is selling with 156HP or 115kw. Torque is 192Nm
Motorcode is R20A3
Is there a difference between US and Euro Horsepower?
Because he dynoed 174 HP on his CU2, with the Mods, how many is without, when you buy your car???

 

CU1 has 2.0L petrol engine and is not available in North America, neither is CU3 which has the 2.2L iDTEC diesel engine. We do have CU4 with the 3.5L V6 engine though.

The dyno shows horsepower to the wheel, so it's always less than horsepower measured at the flywheel. That is due to energy loss through drivetrain, oil temperature and even tire traction on the wheel drum.

The Icebox is more expensive, but in my opinion looks and sound the best.

 

To the wheel is ok. It must be about 220-225HP at the engine.
Have you special dynos for the automatic cars? I´m very disapointed about my dyno, its 172 at the engine, to the wheels its 124HP. But they told me they cant make correct results on a automatic. Cant believe that I have only 124 on the wheels. My Topspeed is at 248kmh on the speedo, thats 235kmh with my GPS Navi. Everytime the Autobahn is free, I reach this mark easy.

 

124hp at the wheel can't be correct. FWD cars does not lose 1/3 of the hp to the wheel.

 

Tannis,

You are doing one helluva dis-service not only by not installing those parts one at a time with a dyno pull, but making a spreadsheet with 246 combinations of each part with or without the other 5 items.



Now go remove all these items and do it the right way, we'll be waiting.

 

^

how does the car feel tannis? pull a bit better throughout the powerband?

 

Its really 124hp at the wheel. When I have more time I have to scan the dynoresult than I will post it.

 

Wait for my dyno

 

LMAO! Yes sir! Right away sir!

 

Mostly just better mid-raqnge response. I'm not impressed but the 6K+ range. Or the sub-2.5K range. But right there in the middle is certainly better than before. Now I have a better reason to use my paddle shifters on a daily basis.