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I have a 2011 TSX that I'm considering putting an intake in. I want to do a SRI because it will be much easier than a CAI. I had a short ram intake on my last car, a Scion tC which sounded nice.
I'm in a dilema and need expertise. I'm considerin the below two SRIs. As you can see one is three times the price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Short-Ram-Air-Intake-Kit-for-Honda-08-12-Accord-Acura-09-12-TSX-2-4L-Cool-11-Red-/231221444287?fits=Model%3ATSX
If I were to buy the second one I would put a K&N Filter on it. Is it a bad idea to roll the dice with the cheaper SRI? I'm afraid the holes might not match up or they'll give me crappy directions. I'm not super handy but I try to be when I can.
people install CAI and SRI for "sound" more so than performance which is very unfortunate. try doing a intake resonator delete if you want some sound. Save your money and spend it towards something else in the car, don't bother with aftermarket.
I did try an intake resonator delete last summer, it sounded cheap and hollow to me. Almost like the sound was stuck in a plastic tunnel. I wanted a more aggressive sound, I'm not concerned with performance gains although they would be nice.
From what I've read SRI and CAI give the same performance gains however pretty unnoticeable. Not sure where Justin got his idea from.
a cold air intake system draws cooler air; which is denser air.
More compact air = more power.
a short ram intake WILL be drawing from your engine bay, sucking up heat.
further more; the IAT(Intake Air Temperature) sensor will be picking up this heat and will send the temps to the ECU, which when it detects hot air, WILL retard timing.
a short ram intake WILL be drawing from your engine bay, sucking up heat.
further more; the IAT(Intake Air Temperature) sensor will be picking up this heat and will send the temps to the ECU, which when it detects hot air, WILL retard timing.
Does the Resonator Delete do the same thing aswell?
The induction system used with the 2.4L I-4 is designed for high flow as well as to create an aggressive sound. The inlet design allows cool ambient air to be picked up at the front of the vehicle, and then routed though a high-flow air filter assembly. The single-stage lightweight plastic intake manifold has fixed-length intake runners that are tuned in length, diameter and shape to provide an optimal blend of low-rpm torque and high-rpm response. The composite manifold incorporates 48 mm intake runners along with a high flow aluminum throttle-body.
I'm sure a CAI would add some power. I believe that on the K24A2...Injen's CAI was known to add about 10whp all by itself.
I can't think of a K series that doesn't make significant power through bolt-on parts. Is the Z3 a completely different animal?
I would not buy a cheap intake. Name brand intakes come with better filtration, and they have brackets that fix the intake to the chassis. No-name intakes that you see on ebay are absolute garbage in terms of fitment and filtration. The filters tend to rust (yes), and I don't think they do a damn thing to keep dirt out of the engine. You're paying money to ruin your car. What's the point?
However...I think that aesthetically, CAI's and SRI's are ugly as hell...and they sound like shit. My 1G came with an Injen CAI when I bought it. I painted it crackle black. I left it in there for 2 reasons:
-It makes power
-I don't have a stock intake
After painting it crackle black, it doesn't look half bad, I guess. The sound is still annoying. If it had a CT engineering intake, I think I'd be happy. It's the only aftermarket intake that I don't think is hideous in looks or in sound.
The CT engineering intake is something you should look into. It has a more aggressive sound than stock, but displays much better engineering and thought than the filter-on-a-stick intakes.
Although you'd have to be a dumbass....there is a chance for water inhalation through that Injen CAI. You won't be able to drive it in the care-free manner that you can drive with a CT engineering or stock intake.
I am in the same boat. But since I will be supercharged soon, vit said he recommends an aftermarket intake due to the soft rubber oem pipe collapsing under pressure choking the motor.
Besides that,
In some cases, the sure way you can benefit from an aftermarket intake is if your tuning the ecu afterwards. Otherwise you're just making noise.
Also, a SRI with a proper heat shield will yield numbers close to what a CAI would do.
I for one don't think that the stock intake is "high performance". The air just travels through way to many pipes before it hits the manifold.
Last edited by Username 0; May 5, 2015 at 10:39 PM.
There's a lot more to modern intake design than lessening restriction. I'm sure that the TSX has a nicely designed stock intake. But...an aftermarket CAI will likely make power.
How would you prevent heat soak in the TSX's bay with a SRI? Even with heat shielding....
Google "sri heat shield" and then select the images tab. You will see many examples of custom and aftermarket made examples.
Wrapping the intake pipe in exhaust wrap helps a lot with preventing heat soak. I once used exhaust wrap on my intake pipe and then put a layer of aluminum tape over that and no more heat soak.
Ever since my buddy hydro locked his engine after going over a small water puddle, I have sworn to never use CAI's. His engine died a slow miserable death.
Last edited by Username 0; May 5, 2015 at 10:59 PM.
Here was my old setup on my eg. Custom heat shield and inlet/outet pipe were wrapped in one layer of exhaust wrap and then one layer of aluminum tape. My intake temps were always near the outside temps while driving.
Last edited by Username 0; May 5, 2015 at 11:05 PM.
Your IAT was placed before your intercooler or after it?
While driving, your IATs may have been close to outside air...for many reasons. But you can still get heat soak in stop and go traffic...or if you're driving the car hard. The K series is much more heat soak prone than the B series.
Yeah Roland honestly CTE icebox would probably be my only option. It doesn't look like shit for one, and it will have close to OEM chance of hydrolock. However, the 2G icebox is expensive but that's mostly because of how good it looks with that carbon lid lol
I don't like the sound of intake resonator delete, nor the sound of traditional metal pipe CAIs/SRIs for some reason. My car sounds plenty rice already with the RV6 PCD
Your IAT was placed before your intercooler or after it?
While driving, your IATs may have been close to outside air...for many reasons. But you can still get heat soak in stop and go traffic...or if you're driving the car hard. The K series is much more heat soak prone than the B series.
The sensor was at the intake manifold. I had bad heat soak issues until I did said modifications. The hot side of the turbo was making thing hot.
One thing that annoys me about the ct-e intake is that at its price, you would expect a metal pipe as part of the kit. I don't like the thought of reusing the oem rubber pipe with such a sexy looking intake.
One thing that annoys me about the ct-e intake is that at its price, you would expect a metal pipe as part of the kit. I don't like the thought of reusing the oem rubber pipe with such a sexy looking intake.
Plus.. That is the first piece that's going to start to give a lil under higher amounts of boost.. Although.. You usually tend to see that more only with higher hp/boosted cars than a stage one ct charged TSX.. I will stick with my AEM once I'm boosted.. I have loved it the 1+ year so far (not as ugly either without the chromie for your homie look) and recently VIT tuning is really starting to make her sing in the high revs..
I am in the same boat. But since I will be supercharged soon, vit said he recommends an aftermarket intake due to the soft rubber oem pipe collapsing under pressure choking the motor.
Besides that,
In some cases, the sure way you can benefit from an aftermarket intake is if your tuning the ecu afterwards. Otherwise you're just making noise.
Also, a SRI with a proper heat shield will yield numbers close to what a CAI would do.
I for one don't think that the stock intake is "high performance". The air just travels through way to many pipes before it hits the manifold.
I know you don't believe me but the stock intake tube can handle it. Here is one of the red-line datalogs I took and it's very linear boost up to 12psi and no choking.
I mean you're already spending $4k so what's another ~$300 on an intake? But honestly.. I would just wait until you start tuning and the problem arises.
i believe you. It's just a question on which intake tube will collapse. For now I'm just going to delete my intake resonator, keep the k&n filter in and run a tube down behind the bumper with a velocity stack. Not to low though, don't wanna suck up water.