Yeah....give it a shot.....I think the timezone setting just applies an offset to the GMT time supplied by the GPS system. When you first start your car you may notice the time displays "00:00" but that will clear to the proper time as soon as the timing signal is acquired from the satellite network....usually around 30 seconds.

 

hey iCrap I got a quick question for you ... I finally got my N7 (yeay!!!) and I'm setting it up before I permanently (or semi-permantently) install it in my car ... I'm planning to install Timur's N7 USB ROM, but I just wanna clarify with you cause I think you did this.

When installing the ROM, the instruction just says "wipe data" and install ROM ... is that what you did? Cause USB ROM is a ROM, I thought you have to wipe system instead of just wipe data??

And how do you connect power? Do you get a cig. socket and T-connect it to the 12V and ground wires beside the handbrake? Or do you T-connect those wires directly to USB cable that connects to the N7?

And did you in-line install a fuse? Or do you let the cig. lighter fuse take care of it?

 

yea you HAVE to wipe everything, I did data and system. You do wipe data only if you're already running Cyanogenmod. (timur's is based of CM)

Power i took from the 12v socket next to the handbrake, yeah. No inline fuse. Be sure to use your Y OTG cable though.

Also, there is a setting in the USB ROM.... enable firm sleep and fast Y OTG charging. This is so it'll basically hibernate when there is no power and charge really fast when there is power, my tablet looses like 1% per day, if even.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, you need to disable charging mode, so if the tablet dies you won't be stuck on the screen with the battery that just says charging...

boot into fastboot, use this command
do this BEFORE installing into the dash, i forgot to send this command before.... I had to pull the tablet out of the dash and do it all over again. (You can't send commands in fastboot through the Y OTG cable)


Also, i ordered a double din bezel to mess with. I may relocate the tablet to the upper radio section.... If it fits.

 

Thanks man ... no, Timur's instruction says if you have a CM10.1 ROM then wipe nothing and just flash over, but if you have a non CM ROM you have to wipe data ... I take it he means system so I'll do a clean and complete wipe and flash over it.

So for power I guess you T-connected the USB directly to the +12V and GND wires? I guess you cut open a USB cable and connected the corresponding power wires to it?

Yes I order the Y-OTG cable and the other cables ... just waiting for them to show up.

 

And I think the tablet will fit ... a lot of people have fitted the N7 in double-DIN bezels so as long as it's double-DIN size. Where will you relocate the oridingal HU to though? Or, bypass the HU altogether with go with a N7+amp setup?

 

the HU main board should actually fit behind in it's original spot, after I take off the buttons and stuff... I don't want to swap the HU though.

Yea, he means if you are already running CM. But just do a total wipe and flash over.
the Y OTG cable gives you one USB micro female and one USB A female. the USB Micro female you just take a regular USB micro cable and power off that. do NOT go directly to the 12v off the tablet, you'll need to cut up a car charger ( regular old 12 to 5v)

 

Thanks icrap. The Nexus7 project is still pending as I am still waiting for all the cables I ordered (and being shipped from China .... brrrr)

In the meantime I'm setting up the N7. I have flashed Timur's USB ROM and so far so good. I got the FI mode to work so the tablet goes into firm sleep when I remove power (funny it only works with a Y-OTG table, and not direct power connection) and everything's back on when there's power again.

Just a couple questions:

- What do you use for offline navigation? I think Google map / nav is a good enough nav but it requires network connection. I find that even when I download and cache offline map with Google map for a city, I still can't perform search or navigate to an address without network connection, making the offline map pretty useless

- I also tried to make USB tethering work, and it only semi-works. When I first plug the USB cable into my phone (Samsung GS4), the tablet can do USB tether no problem. If I disconnect my phone, and reconnect afterwards, it does not recognize the USB connection now. I pretty much have to reset the tablet, and it will recognize the USB tether connection again, only on the first connect. Have you played with this?

 

Oh you're going to be waiting weeks for those cables lol.

For offline nav i found an app called Sygic which looks pretty decent, but i haven't tried it yet. it uses tomtom maps and its free.

I messed with google maps and it's totally completely useless without a network connection.

I didn't use USB tether since i don't want any wires to my phone. I setup wireless AP hotspot to auto-connect.

 

 

New homescreen for the tablet..

 

Lots of initiative there iCrap.....very inventive.....superb actually.
Now if you can write an Android App to scan the bus for audio and hvac data you won't need to relocate the oem screen.

 

No need to relocate the screen. I want to get the canbus working so I can see all that data.

Backup cam is also now working.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7pxly1eqqx...2011.21.44.jpg

 

Arduino interface?

 

wow icrap. that's very impressive. Looks real clean. Props!

 

Arduino for what though? Getting the OBD and CANBUS signals?
I think there is a way to do it directly with an OBDII USB dongle going right into the tablet, i need to do more reading though.


Another pic. using Sygic for GPS.... it has no issues getting a lock in its current spot.





This picture is blurry as hell but it shows what i took off from the factory HU to get it all fitting properly.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tefv5iwau4...2017.01.41.jpg

 

I don't think you'll find hvac and audio system data on the ODBII output....I believe (and of course could be wrong about this) that non-diagnostic data is only available on CANBUS and requires an Arduino-like piece of hardware for interface.....lemme know what your research shows....I'm interested.

 

I finally installed my P81 this weekend. You weren't kidding about there not being ANY room behind. I struggled for four hours to fit it in, cutting every unused wire and even shortening the GPS and speaker wires just to fit everything in the central speaker space.

Now that I've connected the GPS, the time does show up correctly, thanks ArtJ. However, I also have the 72F/22C reset issue. Could it be those pins on the back of the P81 that fixes the problem? I never touched them but I'm thinking DX vs LX or whatever the options are may make a difference.

ArtJ and devitocoke, do you know what your pins are set to? I don't even want to think about taking the HU out just to check though :-(

 

Found some pictures of that box on the back of the P81 and the options for the pins are LX-EX or EX-L. And it looks like the 2008 Accord EX-L added "dual-zone automatic climate control" over LX through EX trim levels. It also looks like the P81 comes set to LX-EX by default. So most likely, devitocoke has it set to EX-L while the rest of us left it at the default LX-EX.

 

Hmmmm...interesting...I thought I set mine for EX-L. I'll have to go back through my photos to see if I captured my switch settings.

 

Forgot to mention, for those still interested in installing this HU, I bought a 2011 shroud and the protective plastic is just glued on so when you remove it there are no holes left behind, just some grooves. I used a plexiglass cutting knife to cut the clear part out and it was really easy and the edges are flawless.

 

VERY interesting icrap ... that (the stock HU) is a much better spot for N7 than the bin in the bottom.

Can you give a step by step on how you did it?

And if you take out the buttons etc from the HU, how do you control it? The steering wheel control only controls volume and track and mode, you still need Power, menu, etc etc.


Thanks!

 

I'm going to extend the wires for the stock HU later and leave the connection point in the glovebox for if i need to get to the other buttons.

With the wheel buttons you can swap between xm, fm, am, aux bt/wire etc and change channels.

I NEVER use the menu or anything else, i set my audio settings just the way i like and never change it.


I took pictures when I did it, but didn't realize my shitty camera phone was making them all blurry till after.

Here are some pics linked below, showing the capture card, nexus test fit, what i cut on the bezel and the final install with a shot of the backup cam running.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2015.23.46.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2017.01.36.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2017.01.55.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2011.28.39.jpg

Step by step.... really simple
1. take apart entire dash, pull out radio assembly (DO NOT unplug the wires from the back) Take everything apart from the HU and leave only the box with circuit board and CD player (cd player can come out too, i didn't bother)
2. Get your Metra double din Bezel and cut everything around the sides like i showed in the picture, the idea is to get it flat.
3. mount up the n7 to the bezel along with your OTG cable ( i had to cut off the original end and solder a right angle)
4. route all wires down to center console, power, usb otg, audio if needed.
5. reassemble it all.

 

Hmm interesting. How do you extent the wires? And how difficult is it to "dissemble everything in the HU"?

I think at the very least, I'll need the PWR, AUX (The "Mode" button on the steering column does not switch between USB / IPOD / BT), Clock, H, M etc ... with daylight saving time I do need to adjust the clock twice a year unfortunately ...

 

taking apart the HU is really easy, just a few screws.
Extending the wires would be just as simple as unsoldering and soldering a longer wire.

The mode button on the wheel does do USB / iPod/ BT and aux btw.

 

Any way to turn off the agreement screen on the P-81 when you start navigation? It's freaking annoying as hell having to press "Agree" every time I start the car as I have it set to start the navigation by default.

 

Nope....I start up on trip screen to simulate the same thing I'd see on the oem HU, i.e. audio and hvac system....goes right into it without fuss. The oem nav system requires the "agree" thing as well when you start the car. BTW I have a fix in the works for the annoying startup sound.....I'll post it when I get a better handle on it.

 

After you take out all the panels and the original bezel, can you see the screws to dissemble the HU already? Or do you need to take the HU out?

Once you unscrews and take out the 'face plate' of the HU, do you have to cut / unplug any cables that attach the faceplate to the HU? Pictures of how the HU looks like after you dissemble it will be great (I've seen a blurry picture ... )

Thanks!

 

You can see the screws to take apart the HU after taking out the panels. There are a few and they are just on the corners.

There are two connectors which just pop off when you pull out the faceplate. No cutting.

 

I'm excited to try this out however I have the newer Nexus 7 and that guy is charging for his ROM now. SO I have to do some more research when I get home.

 

It should work fine without that ROM but you'll loose deep sleep along with some of the USB features. But yea i saw he is charging for it... dick move...

 

Well mine is the LTE version so what I plan to do is just download my playlists for offline use and I can use all the other apps. Of course power saving would be awesome since the power button wouldn't be accessible. I guess I'll either pay up or keep doing research

 

I noticed you said: "you'll need to cut up a car charger ( regular old 12 to 5v)"
This splices into the USB togo cable?
Also what dash kit did you buy?

 

Yea that will connect to the OTG cable.

I bought the Metra kit.

 

I'm going to get this:
Theoretically I can just plug in a USB charge cable from my cigarette light right?

 

Did you post a link? nothing is showing.

Yeah you can just plug a USB charging cable in, that'll work fine.

 

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...A1YH2GQC3H4N42
I read the reviews and they said it sucks but who knows...
I might not even need it since I have charge only cables and a 2.4 amp charger in the car. I also do not use any other devices. If I want to use USb the one built into the car will still work

 

I was also thinking this app might help since I can't get that ROM:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ller.batrsaver

 

Oh yeah that should work. Along with some tasker profiles.

 

my answer

 

and kenwood 890hd
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psabrurpfw.jpg