Rsb
Nice thing about an OEM RSB solution is you probably won't need to bore out the original mounting point holes. Of course, this is because the bar isn't as thick as the Progress one, but should still be a worthy upgrade nonetheless!
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The even thicker one requires a change that is much more extensive than boring out the mounting point holes (chassis drilling). That, and it's pretty costly. It's the Mid-Ohio spec one. I believe the only person who had it on this forum was Maiku, and he sold it not too long ago when he parted out his mods.
I ran the calculations of how much stiffer each were over stock. Its not linear so the 22 is much more than OEM 19, and the 25 is much more than 22.
I'll see if I can dig them up.
Assumptions
1) Assume the bars being compared are the same material.
2) Assume the bars being compared are all solid (which I think is the case here).
So, general rule of thumb is that stiffness increases to the fourth power of diameter. This allows us to compare the relative stiffness of the bars. To make things easy, we'll ignore units and just treat the calcs as dimensionless units:1) Assume the bars being compared are the same material.
2) Assume the bars being compared are all solid (which I think is the case here).
OEM 17mm: 17^4 = 83,521 stiffness units
Prog 22mm: 22^4 = 234,256 stiffness units
Prog 25mm: 25^4 = 390,625 stiffness units
Now for relative comparisons:Prog 22mm: 22^4 = 234,256 stiffness units
Prog 25mm: 25^4 = 390,625 stiffness units
The 22mm unit is 234,256/83,521 = 2.8x stiffer than the OEM 17mm bar.
The 25mm unit is 390,625/83,521 = 4.7x stiffer than the OEM 17mm bar, and is 390,625/234,256 = 1.7x stiffer than the 22mm bar.
What's that all mean? Well, ignoring everything else, we can see that replacing the OEM bar with a 22mm unit will have a big change. Going to the 25mm unit will have an even bigger change. But going from the 22mm to 25mm unit will not yield as dramatic a change. This all ignores additional stress placed on other parts of the system, etc.The 25mm unit is 390,625/83,521 = 4.7x stiffer than the OEM 17mm bar, and is 390,625/234,256 = 1.7x stiffer than the 22mm bar.
For my money, on a DD with only spirited on-road driving, the 22mm unit is the way to go. YMMV.
Hey Itr, how was the install? Direct plug and play? The Accord guys say they have some chassis rub.
Boredom makes me research car parts. Found the TL SH-AWD 20mm + bushings for around $65.00 bucks. Way cheap. Just need to see how rusted my endlinks are.
Boredom makes me research car parts. Found the TL SH-AWD 20mm + bushings for around $65.00 bucks. Way cheap. Just need to see how rusted my endlinks are.
If u get the moog universal bushing it'll clear , the bushing is like the polybushing kit just better ,they dont make noise or need endless greasing ,thebraket have a elongated hole so u can pull the sway backward a bit to clear !
they are cheap , but u need new hardware not a big deal >
Ill post pics soon !
they are cheap , but u need new hardware not a big deal >
Ill post pics soon !
I have a TL SH AWD buddy who "price matched" the lowest pricing I could find online lol.
I called Bernardi Honda. They advertise part #52300-TK5-A02 with a Google search for the low low, but it's false. You have to purchase it through their Acura store, which has it at $100+.
Btw ... How much of a difference does it make going from 17mm to 19mm? Enough to warrant doing the swap?
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