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Hello all, I am planning on getting this https://www.hondata.com/flashpro-tsx ,
the only mods I have is Greddy Supreme SP Cat-Back Exhaust, Injen SP Series Cold Air Intake and k&n air filter.
has anyone gotten the flashpro and what was there experience.
I don't plan on getting anymore mods and I don't think I'll have enough for Dyno.
Just wanted some input and what I can expect out of the maps that come preinstalled with this flashpro.
with a proper tune a naturally aspirated engine will only gain 5-8hp.
if you dont plan to dyno, then you're not properly tuning the car and can see less gains.
you can e-tune, or data log, then send data log to e-tuner via email. e-tuner will send you maps, which upload to your car.
I do have to say; An e-tune did make my car more drivable, or streetable...if you will. Smoothed things out, even if it didnt gain a lot of horsepower.
Last edited by justnspace; 07-28-2020 at 05:57 PM.
to note; I have a 2006 TL and use a guy named Dom who used to be active on this forum. I have his email and is how we correspond.
as stated, he'll have me drive under certain conditions while data logging. then, I'll send him the logs and he'll adjusts the maps. he'll send me a file(configured map) to upload to hondata, then i'll upload it to the car.
cheaper than a dyno and pretty good results! turbo guys use Dom to dial in their maps!
I know I purchased his tuning service for under $200. and he'll sit there and play with maps for a few days. usually takes 8-10 revisions to dial the shit in
Last edited by justnspace; 07-28-2020 at 06:36 PM.
I wont stomp on your dreams.
meaning; Dom's e-tune did nothing to the sound of my car.
and while I BELIEVE my car is faster, I cant really say at stop signs. my car is still a solid 5.6-5.8 seconds to 60 miles per hour.
where it did improve was drive ability. meaning, it's a lot smoother and not as jumpy/twitchy. Before the tune, I was running really really lean. which is bad. Dom adjusted the fuel ratio which made the car run better
Last edited by justnspace; 07-28-2020 at 06:50 PM.
the air/fuel ratio is too lean.....meaning not running enough fuel, not "stoich" which creates hotter temps inside the motor, flash point hot spots which in turn burns rings, valve seats, causes alot of overcompensation with the ECU to keep engine from detonating....(blowing up/melting down)
Thanks for the input guys. What do you mean too lean? Also what are some donts when having the hondata reflash. I just order mine.
There are some decent tutorials for K24 crackle pop tunes on YouTube. I just wouldn’t go too crazy on the pops, but you have a custom exhaust so maybe it’s fine.
Hey guys, so I finally jumped the gun and bought it and connected everything and register.
I see these pre added maps available, is this only showing because of my current mods?
Also can anyone explain what these do and which one should I choose?
The bottom two are for upgraded 780cc injectors. The one above that is for a speed density air sensor which would be different from stock. My guess is you should avoid those three altogether. The second one seems to be an okay choice for a stockish+ car but understand you are risking major engine damage if you fool around with this and not know what you're doing.
it's clear he doesnt know what he's doing as the maps provided have VERY CLEAR DESCRIPTIONS.
the First two are his safest bet...
one says: FACTORY settings.
the second one says: Raised rev limit, removed speed limit, improved throttle response..
If I was a betting man, I'd bet my whole life existence that the 2nd one would provide a higher rev limit, removed speed governor, and improved throttle response.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-07-2020 at 09:39 AM.
I thought you had to run rich and not lean to get more backfire or crackles/pops. Can I get an explanation? 😂
it can happen in both conditions.
From reddit ELI5:
When lean enough, combustion doesn't happen at all in the chamber. There isn't enough fuel.
When the lean air/fuel mix hits the very hot exhaust parts, the less than optimal mix doesn't matter, and it ignites anyway, causing a backfire. Obviously, this also results in a lack of power since that cylinder never really fired.
When the mixture is too rich, not all of the fuel is burned, and the remainder enters the exhaust and causes a backfire.
Popping and backfiring can be an indicator of a lean running engine due to where the combustion is performed. A backfire is typically caused by fuel being burned outside of the combustion chamber. In an engine, if the mixture of fuel to air is incorrect, this can leave fuel unburned in the chamber, which is then pushed into the exhaust where the fuel-air ratio changes, allowing for more complete combustion, creating 'backfire'.