66240XNBs will be the same color as those Philips but they'll be brighter.

 

XNB's are brighter than CBI? I didn't think that was even possible.

 

hmmmm
'

NBU Product benefits
Up to 70 % more light (compared to standard xenon lamps)
Up to 20 m longer beam (compared to standard xenon lamps)

CBI Product benefits
Exceptionally bright
Offers high contrast and is now brilliantly blue
Up to 20 % more light (compared to conventional coated gas discharge lamps)



BOTH say 3200 lumens.

 

BAM! Thanks for the legwork...
I'm happy with the CBI right now but if the 85122 ever die, I'd give those a shot.

 

wow this looks interesting for a fog option.......

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/produ...-fog/index.jsp

50mm by 100mm is my mounting pattern

i suspect these will cost a bit more than the Morimoto though LOL

 

Jeez...that's nice and bright. But I agree...probably will be.

 

havent been here in a while LOL

car is about 38 months old. 11,700 miles.


everything is back to stock except:

painted door handles are staying. I sold the chrome ones/

and the black vinyl roof rails staying as is. still look near perfect.

adams front rotors need to be replaced with the oem.

and Im running the work wheels; stock wheels have decent snows mounted and original michelins with maybe 3,000 miles in backup.

not removing pedals.....i have the acura ones from marcus
weathertech are staying. oem mats go with the car too; used for a month.
along with the oem rear mat and net etc.
spare tire and all that stays.....again I used all oem parts. some used but still honda like the wheel and tire from ebay were never used from salvage accord.
i need to install a new lower rear bumper thingy.....i have it just needs install.
I backed into my stool and other crap in the garage a few times so my original has some marks on the lip. I will put the reflectors back in and remove the LED lights.
GLM splash guards and door edge molding go with the car too; in the trunk in a box.

I bought new ACURA and TSX badge text for the rear. Needs install before sale.
and GG badge needs removed from hatch.

its a bit over 3 years old there is one nick in the A pillar from a rock on passenger side. and not another chip anywhere.
the oem grille is PERFECT. clear bra the entire front bumper and the rest of the exposed areas has held up well.
and the rest of the clear bra still looks perfect and not damaged.
I replaced the body color fog covers, they had some chips, with the oem black plastic ones.......same look and no chips.

oh and i need to aim the stock headlights......one looks too high, the other too low

 

You gonna miss the wagon?

 

i havent sold it yet to me

 

Are you spending so much time with the little things going back to stock so it'll sell easier? I know in general people look down on modded cars when buying but some of these things seem like more work than it's worth.

 

imo if it looks as stock as possible it'll sell faster / easier.

 

Yeah stock is the way to go. Plus you wanna get back some of that money you spent on those aftermarket parts. If they stay on the car, they will be worth nothing to 99% of buyers.

 

Are the wagon reflectors same size as sedan? If so, I'll trade you my reflectors for yours.

 

They different. Wagon and civic is same.

 

things like the savclaude painted door handles are not being removed and I doubt anyone will notice during the sale because of the sublety and quality of the mod. Same with black vinyl roof rails. ITs done so well you cannot tell its not oem.
yes the peeps in the KNOW might notice but not easily.


I suspect numbers like 85-90% of car owners do nothing but drive them.
15% of car owners NEVER EVEN WASH their vehicles.

so yes, back to stock is best for resale. A dealer on trade will not pay for any mods unless they oem. im sure their are exceptions but lets say 'for the most part'. WHY......its about the financing. the BANK uses KBB or something same as the stealer to determine price. if they cant fifnace it no one will pay for it.

i have always modded my vehicles but the last few were rather new vehicles and the only advice I have is save all you original parts and be careful with non-reversible mods.

last point about mods: do mods for yourself......not to please the crowd

 

wagon and civic ones are the same? which model civic?

 

check it at iJDMtoy thats where I bought them....or search on the tsx part number.....its same whichever civic....

might be SI but I cannot swear to it/

 

i thought the crv ones were the same, not the civic.

 

Compatibility

2010 and up Honda Insight
2010 and up Honda CR-Z
2012 and up Honda CR-V
2011 and up Acura TSX Sportwagon

 

yeah you right on that. i posted the list for the whole world to see robpp was wrong and the old fark admitted it too

 

Yeah, you'll never get any value from the non-stock stuff left on your car. So you should sell me your weathertechs. I'll even pick them up in august.

 

lol

 

Didn't I say that a few years ago?

 

That's all amazing but... What about the car audio mods? Did I miss that thread?

 

Yep only a buffoon would do this. Notice no reputable auto service center does this.

Quote:

If you apply any friction modifying substance, like oil or anti-seize, to the wheel stud threads, it is going to change the measured torque values. With less friction on the threads, the torque values increase. So, when you tighten a wheel to 85 ft/lbs, it may actually be torqued at 95 ft/lbs (this includes torque wrenches and sticks). The increase in force will mean that the studs will stretch under the increased torque. This stretching can lead to metal fatigue, changes in thread geometry and the possible failure.

 

Would it be unreasonable to require engineers to design all *critical* threaded joints & related components (wheel lugs, helicopter rotors, etc. anything where a life may be at stake) to be able to withstand the maximum axial loads produced by torquing lubricated threads to specs with a torque wrench ? The lubricants vary, so they should design for the lube that produces the lowest friction.

It seems anti seize and lube on threaded joints is a good idea in most cases, plus applying the lube produces more consistent and accurate transmission of torque, so it would appear to make sense to always design for a lubricated joint.

I have also read that research has shown that not lubricating the thread and nut face will result in the friction value increasing on re-tightening which subsequently reduces the preload for a given torque value. This would be especially important regarding lug nuts, which are being removed & re-tightened frequently for tire rotations.

It seems all torque specifications should specify both dry and lubricated threads for reference, & if lubrication or anti seize is required or recommended, it's exact application method should be specified. Although ideally the joint would be designed to withstand a worse case scenario application of lube on both the threads and under the bolt head.

At the Bolt Science Web Site website, they say that it is actually transverse joint movement that causes loosening of threaded fasteners. In the case of a wheel, friction between the wheel and the hub prevent traverse movement. The friction is generated by the axial force generated by the torqued lug nuts.

Because of traverse movement causing joint loosening, it's probably best to not use anti seize or any lube on the back side of the rim where it contacts the rotors, hub, or brake drums.

My feeling is the benefit of using anti seize on lug nuts outweigh any concerns of problems it may cause. I do think it is a good idea to apply the anti seize very sparingly to the lug studs, and to try to not get any anti seize on the contact point between the end of the lug & where it seats in the rim lug recesses.

The last time I used anti seize on lug nuts, I think the way I did it was to smear a small dab of anti seize on the end of the lug stud, then run a lug nut on the stud by hand back and forth until a thin film of anti seize covers most all the stud (almost up to the rim). I ran the nut back and forth on the stud enough times so that it did not push a glob of anti seize between the end of the lug and where the lug seats in the rim when I was ready to finally tighten the lugs down. I wiped off any anti seize at the lug end as required.

The main question that remains is whether to torque the lugs to manufacturers specs or reduce the torque by a percentage to compensate for any increase in axial loads due to the anti seize. My guess is to just torque the lugs to manufacturers specs, especially if you use the anti seize very sparingly and can keep it off the end of the lug nuts where they seat with the rims.

This has worked for me and I think the fact that it did not warp my rotors is a clue that the axial loads are not too outragous. Shops warp rotors all the time with impacts, and they might turn or replace your rotors, but they don't replace the lug studs as a precaution for the possibility of them being overstressed by the impact which warped the rotors.

This reasoning may not apply to all vehicles, especially larger tucks, but for most pickups and cars, I would think that if you have not warped the rotors and you do not feel any break pulsations, then you probably have not overstressed the lug nuts & studs to a point of any real concern.

 

^ Makes sense for the most part.
For over 20 years, I have used anti-seize for:
- the interface wheel/hub, for aluminum wheels. [If you use hub-centric OEM wheels, this will not be a problem and will actually ease the wheel removal in case of a flat... ]
- the ends of the lug nuts where they contact the wheel, not the threads (although some small amounts of anti-seize always ends up touching the threads at some point).

I always clean the threads with solvent before installing tires.

This will ensure consistent friction and more even torque.

Being in Canada, where snow/salt corrodes pretty much everything, these actions will make your life easier. I have seen dealer-maintained cars with impossible to remove wheels due to overtorquing and/or wheel stuck to the hub.

 

yeah its more old school way of looking at it when cars came with 12,000/1 year warranty and lugs always seem to be rusted on.
i use it and will continue.
I have never lost a wheel of found one loose. I have been driving for 40 years or so. and wrenching for a bit longer than that.

that bottle shown is definitely from the 70's.....a little goes a long way.

on modern cars a good place to put some is between the rotor hat and the hub. I have seen peeps using big dead blow hammers to try and get a rotor off a hub due to corrosion.

 

Rob


Car isn't sold yet?

 

Haven't put any effort into it. Too busy with work. Lots of travel get home for the weekends but lots to do.

Has 11700 put maybe 100 in 12 months. New battery too.

Needs an alignment and a detail to be ready to go.

I drive it in and out of the garage to get to the el Camino.


To be honest there's no rush. Payoff and depreciation are in sync. And who knows with the little number of wagons around it could hold value better than 4 door.

 

My offer still stands. Three fiddy.

 

oh i thought that original offer was only for the wheels......i didnt realize it was for the complete wagon PLUS the wheels

 

My offer still stands too! I'll be up your way at the end of July and August.

You know. In case you need some beer money or something...

 

No weathertech.

 

OK

 

alot of interesting tasteful mods sir.

 

its all done today.

2/27/12 - 11/24/15.

it was fun.

 

Well, it was fun reading through you're build and checking out the cool stuff you did. We had very similar tastes in mods.

I'm sure the bitchin' Camaro will be loads of fun too!

 

yeah i did the same......i forgot some of the stuff I did LOL

now the wait,,,,,I wont have possession of the camaro until after the new year ARGHHHHH. Well I have possession.....its in my brothers garage but thats in NJ.
After Jan 1 will have it shipped to me here in CO.

 

Sad to see you go, rob. But I'm sure you'll get more enjoyment out of that Camaro.