DIY Coilovers?
#2
not to be a dick but if you dont know how to change the coilover take it to the shop so you dont fuck up anything.
but i found this hope it helps
http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-suspe...n-install.html
but i found this hope it helps
http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-suspe...n-install.html
#4
3rd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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There is a DIY in the sticky thread.
For torque specs, I am running late to work but I'll try do my best to explain:
The ones that have been underlined Honda recommends that you replace. There are a few others that they recommend you replace; but they do not have torque specs so I left them out.
Front Shocks
Top of shock/strut tower
Damper mounting nuts - (10 x 1.25mm) - 55Nm
Strut brace mounting nuts - (8 x 1.25mm) - 22Nm
Bottom of shock
Damper pinch bolt (into damper fork) - (10 x 1.25mm) - 49Nm
Damper fork mounting nut and bolt (connects damper fork and the lower arm) - (12 x 1.25mm nut and bolt) - 64Nm
Wheelspeed sensor bracket (6 x 1.0mm) - 9.8Nm
Rear Shocks
Top of shock
Damper mounting nuts (10 x 1.25mm) - 55Nm
Bottom of shockDamper lower mounting bolt (12 x 1.25mm) - 64Nm
Stabiliser link self locking nut (10 x 1.25mm) - 44Nm
For torque specs, I am running late to work but I'll try do my best to explain:
The ones that have been underlined Honda recommends that you replace. There are a few others that they recommend you replace; but they do not have torque specs so I left them out.
Front Shocks
Top of shock/strut tower
Damper mounting nuts - (10 x 1.25mm) - 55Nm
Strut brace mounting nuts - (8 x 1.25mm) - 22Nm
Bottom of shock
Damper pinch bolt (into damper fork) - (10 x 1.25mm) - 49Nm
Damper fork mounting nut and bolt (connects damper fork and the lower arm) - (12 x 1.25mm nut and bolt) - 64Nm
Wheelspeed sensor bracket (6 x 1.0mm) - 9.8Nm
Rear Shocks
Top of shock
Damper mounting nuts (10 x 1.25mm) - 55Nm
Bottom of shockDamper lower mounting bolt (12 x 1.25mm) - 64Nm
Stabiliser link self locking nut (10 x 1.25mm) - 44Nm
#5
not to be a dick but if you dont know how to change the coilover take it to the shop so you dont fuck up anything.
but i found this hope it helps
http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-suspe...n-install.html
but i found this hope it helps
http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-suspe...n-install.html
putting wheels on is one thing but suspension is tricky.
i know my way around a car and i wouldnt touch it.
i hear the rear ones are bitch to get to anyway.
just pay a shop to do it imo.
#6
I have alot of issue with the fronts but not the rears but then again i was doing it by myself so it a pain. it pretty easy but if you never done it before get someone to help you
where do you live if you in boston i would love to help
where do you live if you in boston i would love to help
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#8
Racer
Which coilovers? With ones that have separate preload and height adjustments (like the BC Racing BR series), you have to make sure to set the spring pre-load correctly, but that will be covered by instructions that come with them. In ones with separate compression and rebound adjustments ($$$$), I can see that getting tricky to dial in. But, for "regular" ones with a single knob that affects both compression and rebound simultaneously.. there is only one setting that's as close to matching the spring rates as it will get, and it's only one knob.. shouldn't be that difficult.
Stan
Stan
#10
Everyday I'm rofling
Same here, first car and I've installed everything myself.
Once you get the new coilovers and spend a few minutes looking around in there with the wheels off, its easy. It will take you 8 hours and a lot of blood shed, but you'll know how to get it done.
Once you get the new coilovers and spend a few minutes looking around in there with the wheels off, its easy. It will take you 8 hours and a lot of blood shed, but you'll know how to get it done.
#11
Burning Brakes
lol i installed my coils with a couple of friends and we kept screaming at each other when we got a ratchet stuck doing my rear. it was my first install but my friends done it for like alot of RF people so it wasnt too bad. it was pretty funny after we were done cussing at each other for getting the ratchet stuck.
#13
SeeYou2Crew #2
if you want to DIY, do it with a friend. VERY helpful to have a extra set of hands. i would not be able to do it by myself without my friend lol, (although he did most of the work LOl since it was my first time lmao)
#16
Racer
Problem with the rears is the stock shock/spring assembly is very tall, and you need to lower the control arm a lot to get the shock out. I did it by myself, what I did was use a 4-5 foot piece of wood jammed between control arm and body, and while sitting on it to get the control arm down as far as possible, I worked on getting the shock assembly out. It is a PITA with tall stock springs, but would be easier with a shorter spring.
Stan
Stan
#17
Everyday I'm rofling
OEM coilovers are a painnnnnnn to get out. Took forever to jimmy those bastards out.
#20
if you search for 2008 honda accord coilover install you will find a pretty good diy done by the guys at throwdown performance.
i got the tip to disconnect the 2 front control arms for the rear, from their diy
once you have those 2 arms removed, the rears come out pretty easy.
if you don't want to remove the sway bar linkages, you have to remove both, driver and passenger, sides before installing
cause, if you didn't know, the sway bar makes your independent suspension less independent.
for the front, remove the bolts which need to be removed.
remove the damper from the fork, and wiggle the fork out.
(removing the mounting fork is very important, as it takes up a lot of your working space)
the oem coilover should drop and rest on the knuckle; the spring is too big.
use your jack and jack up the knuckle to make room for the spring.
it comes out easy.
when installing the new coilovers, hand tighten the top mounting nuts before raising the suspension and inserting the bottom bolt.
you should also loosen every nut that tightens on a bushing, then use a jack to raise the suspension so that the car's weight is on it.
then torque all the bolts down. this will save your bushings.
you have to loosen and retourqe all the (bushing related) bolts/nuts each time you change your ride height.
doing so will prolong the life of your bushings.
i got the tip to disconnect the 2 front control arms for the rear, from their diy
once you have those 2 arms removed, the rears come out pretty easy.
if you don't want to remove the sway bar linkages, you have to remove both, driver and passenger, sides before installing
cause, if you didn't know, the sway bar makes your independent suspension less independent.
for the front, remove the bolts which need to be removed.
remove the damper from the fork, and wiggle the fork out.
(removing the mounting fork is very important, as it takes up a lot of your working space)
the oem coilover should drop and rest on the knuckle; the spring is too big.
use your jack and jack up the knuckle to make room for the spring.
it comes out easy.
when installing the new coilovers, hand tighten the top mounting nuts before raising the suspension and inserting the bottom bolt.
you should also loosen every nut that tightens on a bushing, then use a jack to raise the suspension so that the car's weight is on it.
then torque all the bolts down. this will save your bushings.
you have to loosen and retourqe all the (bushing related) bolts/nuts each time you change your ride height.
doing so will prolong the life of your bushings.
Last edited by bpr0422; 11-15-2012 at 11:20 PM.
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