Car Rear-ended - Advice?
01-10-2014, 11:55 PM
#1
Car Rear-ended - Advice?
I just got rear-ended today while stopping at the freeway off ramp by a Ford Edge. Bumper and trunk damaged, but back quarter panels are fine. I was hit as my car was edged towards the right due to the slope and direction of the off ramp.
Pretty pissed since I JUST bought this car!
I found what seems to be a pretty reputable shop that services BMVs and Audis around my local area. Total coverage on the car, so the insurance will take care of it.
But what should I look out for while getting the estimate done and what should I look for after the repairs? Looks like I need a new bumper and trunk.
This is a tech, so I checked and the camera is working.
See pics. Other car's bumper parts are on left on my bumper. arugh.
Thoughts?
Pretty pissed since I JUST bought this car!
I found what seems to be a pretty reputable shop that services BMVs and Audis around my local area. Total coverage on the car, so the insurance will take care of it.
But what should I look out for while getting the estimate done and what should I look for after the repairs? Looks like I need a new bumper and trunk.
This is a tech, so I checked and the camera is working.
See pics. Other car's bumper parts are on left on my bumper. arugh.
Thoughts?
01-11-2014, 06:52 AM
#2
Start at the link below!
http://bodyshops.acura.com/
Make sure you have both the trunk & bumper skin replaced. It may be a good time to get the rear sports bumper as the replacement. That part will come painted from the factory.
As for the body shop. You will need to make sure the car is painted to match the natural peel of the rest of the car. Take a good look at your car. You see the orange peel in the factory paint. If the repainted parts finish is too smooth, you will be able to tell repair work was done to the car.
http://bodyshops.acura.com/
Make sure you have both the trunk & bumper skin replaced. It may be a good time to get the rear sports bumper as the replacement. That part will come painted from the factory.
As for the body shop. You will need to make sure the car is painted to match the natural peel of the rest of the car. Take a good look at your car. You see the orange peel in the factory paint. If the repainted parts finish is too smooth, you will be able to tell repair work was done to the car.
Last edited by evo9; 01-11-2014 at 07:06 AM.
01-11-2014, 08:00 AM
#3
it's a car-drive it
after my tsx was rear-ended a few years ago the body shop determined that it needed more work than the original estimate. They took care of all of that and were paid completely by the other driver's insurance. I also had a rental car while the repair was being done also paid by their insurance.
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Acura_Dude (01-11-2014)
01-11-2014, 08:13 AM
#4
Step 1 - their insurance pays for everything including rental car. Once repaired it MUST be absolutely perfect. Don't accept "it looks fine"
Get the repair independently appraised and request a diminished value settlement from the other insurance company.
Get the repair independently appraised and request a diminished value settlement from the other insurance company.
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Acura_Dude (01-11-2014)
01-11-2014, 11:41 AM
#7
Everyday I'm rofling
Aero rear bumper is a must. Sorry this happened but hopefully you can make the most of it with a new bumper.
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01-11-2014, 03:15 PM
#8
Thanks all. Additional pictures taken this morning.
I went to Diamond Hills Collision out in LA and toured the facility today. They have some pretty exotic cars they are working on. So I think it will be a good shop. But they said that they most likely would have to blend in the trunk with the rear quarter panels. I really hope that isn't the case because the car only has about 3000 something miles on it, and it should be relatively easy to match the trunk to the original paint right?
Got the car repair estimate completed at the facility recommended by my insurance, but the facility could care less as I told them I'm not getting the repairs done there. Need to wait for them to pass the low ball estimate to my insurance before anything can be done though.
Shop said it'll take about 30 days to repair
Le sigh. So annoying.
I went to Diamond Hills Collision out in LA and toured the facility today. They have some pretty exotic cars they are working on. So I think it will be a good shop. But they said that they most likely would have to blend in the trunk with the rear quarter panels. I really hope that isn't the case because the car only has about 3000 something miles on it, and it should be relatively easy to match the trunk to the original paint right?
Got the car repair estimate completed at the facility recommended by my insurance, but the facility could care less as I told them I'm not getting the repairs done there. Need to wait for them to pass the low ball estimate to my insurance before anything can be done though.
Shop said it'll take about 30 days to repair
Le sigh. So annoying.
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Acura_Dude (01-11-2014)
01-11-2014, 03:18 PM
#9
I'll get it independently appraised at the body shop when I take my car in for the body shop work
01-11-2014, 04:58 PM
#11
I'm thinking about hiring a lawyer I've used before for another car accident I was in to help me take care of the diminished value settlement after I go around to get quotes. But I'm not sure if he works on this kind of case either. I would think he would?? I don't have the time and energy to spend dealing with the insurance company.
Can you give me a rundown on how this works?
The other vehicle is insured by Allstate.
01-11-2014, 10:28 PM
#12
Summer is Coming
There should be an energy absorbent material inside the bumper cover. Like a dense Styrofoam. some less reputable repair shops will get paid for this part but never install it. You can't tell by looking at the outside. Not sure how to check on this other than stopping by the shop before they reinstall the new bumper cover.
Sorry I can't help on the diminished value. I would start with talking to my own insurance adjuster. Hopefully you have a good insurance company that can get this for you from the other guys insurance.
Sorry I can't help on the diminished value. I would start with talking to my own insurance adjuster. Hopefully you have a good insurance company that can get this for you from the other guys insurance.
01-11-2014, 10:52 PM
#13
This is my area of specialty as I work in the auto insurance claims industry and have so for over 10+ years. In CA too. No issue with using your insurance or the at fault carriers insurance now a days. Your rates won't go up if your not at fault, so your carrier is more than ok to use. I would go with the most reputable, well known company of the two. I would also inquire on the repair program they offer. They may have a repair program and will put a lifetime, nationwide warranty on the repairs done at any shop they refer you to and pay for. That puts the insurance company on the hook too, should the repairs go wrong. If you chose your own shop and they mess up, your stuck dealing with the shop. Let's say something goes wrong later (Paint starts chipping? Addition damage found?) and you find out they gone out of business or change ownership. Your screwed. What if you move out of state? You have to take it back to that shop for the rework. That's why using the insurance repair program is good. They will send you to another shop if that one is gone or your not nearbye anymore. Just check the shop out that you go with. It doesn't need to work on exotic cars or anything to be good. Your TSX is just a Honda to be honest. I personally would want to see a shop with some good Accord and Civic repairs. Parts aren't an issue either. Because of your vehicles age/mileage, they will buy new OEM parts for everything needing replacement. Looking at those pix, I can almost bet you have rear body panel damage and possible rear floor pan and frame damage. They are all connected given the unibody design. The quarter panels will need to be blended too because the trunk sits so flush with it, the new paint will be noticeable if not blended into the adjacent panels. Sorry man, but that's life.
Onto the diminished value claim. That's going to be tough in CA. You can't make that claim with your own carrier. All CA policies exclude that. They don't allow their customers to make that claim. You need to make that with that at fault carrier because you don't have a policy with them that restricts your rights. I would call then and tell them you want to make that claim and ask them what you need to provide them for such a consideration and go from there. Getting the diminished value independently appraised may be needed. That could cost $200-300 and only worth it if you can get that and more back in your dimished value settlement. Basically you need to prove your TSX is worth less even after repaired to its pre accident condition. The other insurance company may just say it's back to its pre accident condition by being repaired. Get it? Good luck with that and hiring attorney for just that will cost money too. Again, you need to get that cost back and more to make it worth it. It's a gamble. You can hire an attorney for your injury claim and get money for pain and suffering. Even for just minor soreness. It's money. And you can almost count that as the dimished value claim if you don't go that route. You won't likely find an attorney that can help you with both. They usually specialize in either injury or property damage.
Ok. That's allot to digest. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions...
Onto the diminished value claim. That's going to be tough in CA. You can't make that claim with your own carrier. All CA policies exclude that. They don't allow their customers to make that claim. You need to make that with that at fault carrier because you don't have a policy with them that restricts your rights. I would call then and tell them you want to make that claim and ask them what you need to provide them for such a consideration and go from there. Getting the diminished value independently appraised may be needed. That could cost $200-300 and only worth it if you can get that and more back in your dimished value settlement. Basically you need to prove your TSX is worth less even after repaired to its pre accident condition. The other insurance company may just say it's back to its pre accident condition by being repaired. Get it? Good luck with that and hiring attorney for just that will cost money too. Again, you need to get that cost back and more to make it worth it. It's a gamble. You can hire an attorney for your injury claim and get money for pain and suffering. Even for just minor soreness. It's money. And you can almost count that as the dimished value claim if you don't go that route. You won't likely find an attorney that can help you with both. They usually specialize in either injury or property damage.
Ok. That's allot to digest. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions...
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Lara_Lockhart (01-14-2014)
01-12-2014, 11:58 AM
#14
There should be an energy absorbent material inside the bumper cover. Like a dense Styrofoam. some less reputable repair shops will get paid for this part but never install it. You can't tell by looking at the outside. Not sure how to check on this other than stopping by the shop before they reinstall the new bumper cover.
Sorry I can't help on the diminished value. I would start with talking to my own insurance adjuster. Hopefully you have a good insurance company that can get this for you from the other guys insurance.
Sorry I can't help on the diminished value. I would start with talking to my own insurance adjuster. Hopefully you have a good insurance company that can get this for you from the other guys insurance.
Thanks for all the info. PM sent.
01-13-2014, 09:40 AM
#15
This is my area of specialty as I work in the auto insurance claims industry and have so for over 10+ years. In CA too. No issue with using your insurance or the at fault carriers insurance now a days. Your rates won't go up if your not at fault, so your carrier is more than ok to use. I would go with the most reputable, well known company of the two. I would also inquire on the repair program they offer. They may have a repair program and will put a lifetime, nationwide warranty on the repairs done at any shop they refer you to and pay for. That puts the insurance company on the hook too, should the repairs go wrong. If you chose your own shop and they mess up, your stuck dealing with the shop. Let's say something goes wrong later (Paint starts chipping? Addition damage found?) and you find out they gone out of business or change ownership. Your screwed. What if you move out of state? You have to take it back to that shop for the rework. That's why using the insurance repair program is good. They will send you to another shop if that one is gone or your not nearbye anymore. Just check the shop out that you go with. It doesn't need to work on exotic cars or anything to be good. Your TSX is just a Honda to be honest. I personally would want to see a shop with some good Accord and Civic repairs. Parts aren't an issue either. Because of your vehicles age/mileage, they will buy new OEM parts for everything needing replacement. Looking at those pix, I can almost bet you have rear body panel damage and possible rear floor pan and frame damage. They are all connected given the unibody design. The quarter panels will need to be blended too because the trunk sits so flush with it, the new paint will be noticeable if not blended into the adjacent panels. Sorry man, but that's life.
Onto the diminished value claim. That's going to be tough in CA. You can't make that claim with your own carrier. All CA policies exclude that. They don't allow their customers to make that claim. You need to make that with that at fault carrier because you don't have a policy with them that restricts your rights. I would call then and tell them you want to make that claim and ask them what you need to provide them for such a consideration and go from there. Getting the diminished value independently appraised may be needed. That could cost $200-300 and only worth it if you can get that and more back in your dimished value settlement. Basically you need to prove your TSX is worth less even after repaired to its pre accident condition. The other insurance company may just say it's back to its pre accident condition by being repaired. Get it? Good luck with that and hiring attorney for just that will cost money too. Again, you need to get that cost back and more to make it worth it. It's a gamble. You can hire an attorney for your injury claim and get money for pain and suffering. Even for just minor soreness. It's money. And you can almost count that as the dimished value claim if you don't go that route. You won't likely find an attorney that can help you with both. They usually specialize in either injury or property damage.
Ok. That's allot to digest. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions...
Onto the diminished value claim. That's going to be tough in CA. You can't make that claim with your own carrier. All CA policies exclude that. They don't allow their customers to make that claim. You need to make that with that at fault carrier because you don't have a policy with them that restricts your rights. I would call then and tell them you want to make that claim and ask them what you need to provide them for such a consideration and go from there. Getting the diminished value independently appraised may be needed. That could cost $200-300 and only worth it if you can get that and more back in your dimished value settlement. Basically you need to prove your TSX is worth less even after repaired to its pre accident condition. The other insurance company may just say it's back to its pre accident condition by being repaired. Get it? Good luck with that and hiring attorney for just that will cost money too. Again, you need to get that cost back and more to make it worth it. It's a gamble. You can hire an attorney for your injury claim and get money for pain and suffering. Even for just minor soreness. It's money. And you can almost count that as the dimished value claim if you don't go that route. You won't likely find an attorney that can help you with both. They usually specialize in either injury or property damage.
Ok. That's allot to digest. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions...
Unless CA insurance laws are far different from other states, the downside with going through your own insurance is that you have to pay your deductible and that limits you to the options (rental car for example) on your policy. While you'll most likely get your deductible back at some point, you'll still need to pay it up front.
Insurance carriers team up with body shops not because of the quality of their work but because of price. The body shop affiliated with the insurance company obligates themselves to get the repairs done within the estimate (unless major hidden damage is discovered). The way the body shops do that is to cut corners - recognizing that most customers won't notice the overspray, the missing sound and impact absorbing foam bits or the non-OE fasteners. They cut corners and the insurance company gives a lifetime warranty - any claims are charged back to the original shop but most customers aren't picky and will never see the cut corners until the next accident which may be worse because of a botched repair.
I've used an insurance recommended shop three times. Once with a deer hit where the estimate was $8k and it was my first accident. The body shop left out multiple bits of sound absorbent materials, duct taped the foam absorber behind the bumper back together and used the wrong anti-freeze. I sold the car a few weeks later after most of the bvious stuff was fixed.
The second time was another deer hit a few years later. Here, the damage was limited to a broken headlamp bracket but the bodyshop found a hairline crack of a 1/4 inch near the attachment point of the front bumper and ended up breaking the radiator support getting the bumper off. The ended up painting the radiator support (which should have been left unpainted) to cover up their superglue repair and left paint on the steering wheel. Although they charged the insurance for a new headlamp assembly ($1600) they really used a $28 repair kit for fix the bracket.
The third time was the TSX wagon where I got rearended. Based on the extent of damage I knew I was going to sell the car so I took it to the insurance recommended place (which also worked with the local Acura dealer who was going to buy the repaired car). I noticed the overspray, the misaligned trim bits and so forth and the independent appraiser noticed the repaired frame damage (the OP's car will most likely have similar damage) and a few cut corners.
I don't know CA stand on diminished value but it makes sense that your own insurance company won't pay - DimVal will always have to be demanded from the at-fault insurance.
So what do you need? You need proof of what your car was worth before the accident and what it is worth now. The most accurate way of doing that is with an independent appraisal. Even if your lawyer doesn't do the claim for you, you should be able to get a reference for an appraiser from them.
There are, of course, other ways to get the current value - CARMAX can tell you what they'll give you for it, an Acura dealer can tell you what the trade value is but the ionly real way of determining the actual value is to sell it or get an independent appraisal.
What is more difficult is trying to determine the pre-collision value. The independent appraiser does that too.
Getting made whole isn't going to be easy, quick or painless. I'm still working the diminished value claim and I'm still in pain from the whiplash.
If the OP perserveres and accepts nothing less that perfect then they'll come out fine eventually.
The OP also needs to remember that all insurance companies want is to save money. While the at-fault insurance has more to lose, they all work hand in hand. If company x saves company y some money then company y will save company x some money down the road - only the consumer gets screwed. Your insurance company is not your friend.
Last edited by ceb; 01-13-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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Lara_Lockhart (01-14-2014)
01-13-2014, 04:47 PM
#16
Ok here is the deal. I fix cars I have my tsx in the shop right now getting ready to paint it.
The bumper cover bumper crash bar trunk new lights and maybe trunk latch will need to be replaced . Now. Finding parts. Is easy I can get trunk and bumper cover and all little parts for less them 500$. All from a wrecking yard. No I don't like to buy something with damage and fix it I look for perfect items. Then what the shop said about blending the quarters. Yes it is a Musttttttt the. Bumper even tho it's black it will look different from the trunk to the quarter panel the reason why we blend to make it as little as visible as possible. The car has almost no damage I see no reason y this car will take a dam 30 days I can put parts on in 40 min. Prep parts for paint and primer in that day or next day. Wait in a booth over night or warm shop. Then check work sand re primer to make sure everything is perfect. And paint. Noon longer the a week for that damage. If u lived. Near By the fix would cost 1200-1500 plus parts and I can go cheaper but I don't because I don't like to use cheap stuff and I do t like cheap work
So that being said the car will have no problems after fix. That is little to almost. Nothing of damage. Scale 1-10 it's. 3 10 being total
The bumper cover bumper crash bar trunk new lights and maybe trunk latch will need to be replaced . Now. Finding parts. Is easy I can get trunk and bumper cover and all little parts for less them 500$. All from a wrecking yard. No I don't like to buy something with damage and fix it I look for perfect items. Then what the shop said about blending the quarters. Yes it is a Musttttttt the. Bumper even tho it's black it will look different from the trunk to the quarter panel the reason why we blend to make it as little as visible as possible. The car has almost no damage I see no reason y this car will take a dam 30 days I can put parts on in 40 min. Prep parts for paint and primer in that day or next day. Wait in a booth over night or warm shop. Then check work sand re primer to make sure everything is perfect. And paint. Noon longer the a week for that damage. If u lived. Near By the fix would cost 1200-1500 plus parts and I can go cheaper but I don't because I don't like to use cheap stuff and I do t like cheap work
So that being said the car will have no problems after fix. That is little to almost. Nothing of damage. Scale 1-10 it's. 3 10 being total
01-14-2014, 12:35 AM
#17
If the OP perserveres and accepts nothing less that perfect then they'll come out fine eventually.
The OP also needs to remember that all insurance companies want is to save money. While the at-fault insurance has more to lose, they all work hand in hand. If company x saves company y some money then company y will save company x some money down the road - only the consumer gets screwed. Your insurance company is not your friend.
The OP also needs to remember that all insurance companies want is to save money. While the at-fault insurance has more to lose, they all work hand in hand. If company x saves company y some money then company y will save company x some money down the road - only the consumer gets screwed. Your insurance company is not your friend.
Ok here is the deal. I fix cars I have my tsx in the shop right now getting ready to paint it.
The bumper cover bumper crash bar trunk new lights and maybe trunk latch will need to be replaced . Now. Finding parts. Is easy I can get trunk and bumper cover and all little parts for less them 500$. All from a wrecking yard. No I don't like to buy something with damage and fix it I look for perfect items. Then what the shop said about blending the quarters. Yes it is a Musttttttt the. Bumper even tho it's black it will look different from the trunk to the quarter panel the reason why we blend to make it as little as visible as possible. The car has almost no damage I see no reason y this car will take a dam 30 days I can put parts on in 40 min. Prep parts for paint and primer in that day or next day. Wait in a booth over night or warm shop. Then check work sand re primer to make sure everything is perfect. And paint. Noon longer the a week for that damage. If u lived. Near By the fix would cost 1200-1500 plus parts and I can go cheaper but I don't because I don't like to use cheap stuff and I do t like cheap work
So that being said the car will have no problems after fix. That is little to almost. Nothing of damage. Scale 1-10 it's. 3 10 being total
The bumper cover bumper crash bar trunk new lights and maybe trunk latch will need to be replaced . Now. Finding parts. Is easy I can get trunk and bumper cover and all little parts for less them 500$. All from a wrecking yard. No I don't like to buy something with damage and fix it I look for perfect items. Then what the shop said about blending the quarters. Yes it is a Musttttttt the. Bumper even tho it's black it will look different from the trunk to the quarter panel the reason why we blend to make it as little as visible as possible. The car has almost no damage I see no reason y this car will take a dam 30 days I can put parts on in 40 min. Prep parts for paint and primer in that day or next day. Wait in a booth over night or warm shop. Then check work sand re primer to make sure everything is perfect. And paint. Noon longer the a week for that damage. If u lived. Near By the fix would cost 1200-1500 plus parts and I can go cheaper but I don't because I don't like to use cheap stuff and I do t like cheap work
So that being said the car will have no problems after fix. That is little to almost. Nothing of damage. Scale 1-10 it's. 3 10 being total
01-14-2014, 12:44 AM
#18
Lol if a shop is recycling used parts i wouldnt even go near them. I pay for insurance to get NEW OEM parts not used, i really dont care if its in great condition, point is that its not new and how all repairs should be, youre getting paid by insurance to do quality work not cut corners and use old parts.
To op, now is a great time to upgrade to the rear aero bumper! Its only 500 shipped from the dealer, comes painted also so all they have to do is install. Tell the shop you chose to repair your car order the aero bumper instead of the plain base tsx one
To op, now is a great time to upgrade to the rear aero bumper! Its only 500 shipped from the dealer, comes painted also so all they have to do is install. Tell the shop you chose to repair your car order the aero bumper instead of the plain base tsx one
01-14-2014, 08:11 AM
#19
lol @ the guy buying junkyard parts. that's why insurance companies try to cheap out on us because shops like that undercut shops that use new OEM parts.
I also wouldn't trust a shop that is ok with a paint job overnight. sheesh.
OP if you do want to go with OEM upgrades, make sure the shops knows it is a factory available part and if they can pull the funds from the payout, it shouldn't be a problem.
I also wouldn't trust a shop that is ok with a paint job overnight. sheesh.
OP if you do want to go with OEM upgrades, make sure the shops knows it is a factory available part and if they can pull the funds from the payout, it shouldn't be a problem.
01-14-2014, 10:00 AM
#20
I'm getting a $6097 diminished value check after my wife's 2010 A5 w/20k miles was hit and caused $22K in damage by the other driver (ran a red light). Allstate was his insurance co and I informed them right after the accident that I would be doing this - they require that after the car is repaired to have it professionally appraised ($300); the appraiser will want to see all the repairs that were done to the car and write the estimate from that and a vehicle inspection, Allstate will want to inspect the repairs as well.
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Lara_Lockhart (01-24-2014)
02-04-2014, 12:25 AM
#21
Update
The body shop invited me to go take a look at my car tomorrow right before they paint it.
Attached are the pictures of the damaged seam after they took my car apart.
Anything I should look out for when I go check out my car tomorrow?
Attached are the pictures of the damaged seam after they took my car apart.
Anything I should look out for when I go check out my car tomorrow?
on me/
02-04-2014, 08:05 PM
#26
Look at the frame below the front doors and by the rear wheels. That's where they attach the frame straightening machine. It'll be a waffle pattern.
You'll also note on the undercarriage where they failed to apply the rust protection.
You'll also note on the undercarriage where they failed to apply the rust protection.
02-04-2014, 10:15 PM
#27
Painted Update
Well, it looks like they already painted it before I was able to get in to take a look.
The photos show the paint job. I really wanted to check out the seam before it got painted, but didn't get to.
They had to blend the right panel all the way up to the side mirror and they blended a portion of the left panel as well.
They repainted the bottom trunk area as well to replicate factory settings.
It was getting dark and hard to tell any paint differences.
It looks like it should be done by the end of this week.
Anything I should look out for when I pick the car up? I'm thinking the peel, alignment of the bumper, imperfections in the paint...
The photos show the paint job. I really wanted to check out the seam before it got painted, but didn't get to.
They had to blend the right panel all the way up to the side mirror and they blended a portion of the left panel as well.
They repainted the bottom trunk area as well to replicate factory settings.
It was getting dark and hard to tell any paint differences.
It looks like it should be done by the end of this week.
Anything I should look out for when I pick the car up? I'm thinking the peel, alignment of the bumper, imperfections in the paint...
Last edited by Lara_Lockhart; 02-04-2014 at 10:18 PM.
02-04-2014, 10:23 PM
#28
Yep. Not aero though 
I have splash guards that they will affix back on. I'm thinking that will cover it?
I'll look out for it though. I forgot to ask them about the frame today.
I'll look out for it though. I forgot to ask them about the frame today.
02-05-2014, 05:47 PM
#29
Carefully check the seams and panel gaps on the repaired side vs the unrepaired side. There should be no visible difference between the two sides. Look at even trim and gaps between the taillights and the body.
Look at the car in daylight and under bright light. Have them put the car up on a lift and look at differences. Don't let them hurry you.
Bring along a thin sandwich baggie. Stick your hand in it and run it all over the car. Any gritty feeling is overspray that they haven't removed.
That same overspray will be on all the windows and is dangerous when you drive into the sun. You'll want to make sure that all the overspray is removed before you drive off in the car.
About a week later take your car by CARMAX and see what they'll give you for it. In my case, CARMAX refused to buy the car for their lot because of the repairs.
Good luck
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Lara_Lockhart (02-07-2014)
02-06-2014, 06:04 PM
#30
I worked for Camax some time ago and once they see evidence of frame straightening machine marks on frame or even the slight evidence of frame damage repair, they don't even consider the car as retail... meaning crappy offer
02-07-2014, 12:09 AM
#31
The waffle pattern will always be visible when leaning down to look. This is important because that will be evidence in a dimVal claim.
Carefully check the seams and panel gaps on the repaired side vs the unrepaired side. There should be no visible difference between the two sides. Look at even trim and gaps between the taillights and the body.
Look at the car in daylight and under bright light. Have them put the car up on a lift and look at differences. Don't let them hurry you.
Bring along a thin sandwich baggie. Stick your hand in it and run it all over the car. Any gritty feeling is overspray that they haven't removed.
That same overspray will be on all the windows and is dangerous when you drive into the sun. You'll want to make sure that all the overspray is removed before you drive off in the car.
About a week later take your car by CARMAX and see what they'll give you for it. In my case, CARMAX refused to buy the car for their lot because of the repairs.
Good luck
Carefully check the seams and panel gaps on the repaired side vs the unrepaired side. There should be no visible difference between the two sides. Look at even trim and gaps between the taillights and the body.
Look at the car in daylight and under bright light. Have them put the car up on a lift and look at differences. Don't let them hurry you.
Bring along a thin sandwich baggie. Stick your hand in it and run it all over the car. Any gritty feeling is overspray that they haven't removed.
That same overspray will be on all the windows and is dangerous when you drive into the sun. You'll want to make sure that all the overspray is removed before you drive off in the car.
About a week later take your car by CARMAX and see what they'll give you for it. In my case, CARMAX refused to buy the car for their lot because of the repairs.
Good luck
02-07-2014, 08:14 PM
#33
02-09-2014, 04:33 PM
#34
Yeah, I'm going to have to bring a ruler and measure it. That's what I thought too, but when I talked to them, they said it looks okay. It might be because the bumper was smashed up.
02-09-2014, 05:17 PM
#35
I dropped by the shop on Saturday to take a look at my car. It looks like they just sanded it. I'm disappointed that they had to blend both the left and right side since the left side wasn't damaged.
I also talked to the guy who's been in communication with me and he said they had to put it on the frame machine to align it. I'll have them put the car on a lift when I go pick it up to check for the waffle pattern. I'll have more questions when I actually pick up my car.
It's been so long that I don't even remember if there's a slight gap with the deck lid alignment.
Few pics.
I also talked to the guy who's been in communication with me and he said they had to put it on the frame machine to align it. I'll have them put the car on a lift when I go pick it up to check for the waffle pattern. I'll have more questions when I actually pick up my car.
It's been so long that I don't even remember if there's a slight gap with the deck lid alignment.
Few pics.
02-10-2014, 09:43 AM
#36
Notice the even gaps between the rear panel and the door in the first picture. The other side should be identical.
You can always take a pack of cards with you to check panel gaps. If the driver's side gap is 3 playing cards thick, then the other side should be the same - and it should be even all the way across the gap.
Note the gaps on chrome trim and taillight assemblies too. Gaps left and right should be identical by sight and close to identical by measurement.
You'll find issues when you pick up your car (overspray is almost guaranteed - especially on the windows where it is a safety issue) so tell them to fix the obvious problems, take lots of pictures and post them here. We'll give you more advice before it is time to "really" pick up your car.
You can always take a pack of cards with you to check panel gaps. If the driver's side gap is 3 playing cards thick, then the other side should be the same - and it should be even all the way across the gap.
Note the gaps on chrome trim and taillight assemblies too. Gaps left and right should be identical by sight and close to identical by measurement.
You'll find issues when you pick up your car (overspray is almost guaranteed - especially on the windows where it is a safety issue) so tell them to fix the obvious problems, take lots of pictures and post them here. We'll give you more advice before it is time to "really" pick up your car.
Last edited by ceb; 02-10-2014 at 09:46 AM.
02-10-2014, 11:30 AM
#37
Intermediate
I was also rear-ended Late November of last year. Long story short my panels are mismatching. As others have suggested, view your vehicle under various light conditions:
Sunlight / Natural light
Fluorescent lighting, ETC.
Take my car for example.. Panels weren't so obvious in the morning but at night, what an eyesore!
In an effort to "blend" in the new paint they've already painted over all my fenders, so half the car is red-orange, the other half is the original Milano red. Gotta wait until March to get the FULL car resprayed by another shop.
Sunlight / Natural light
Fluorescent lighting, ETC.
Take my car for example.. Panels weren't so obvious in the morning but at night, what an eyesore!
In an effort to "blend" in the new paint they've already painted over all my fenders, so half the car is red-orange, the other half is the original Milano red. Gotta wait until March to get the FULL car resprayed by another shop.
The following 2 users liked this post by CaGui1223:
Acura_Dude (02-13-2014),
Mercedes>BMW (02-11-2014)
02-11-2014, 01:50 AM
#38
Notice the even gaps between the rear panel and the door in the first picture. The other side should be identical.
You can always take a pack of cards with you to check panel gaps. If the driver's side gap is 3 playing cards thick, then the other side should be the same - and it should be even all the way across the gap.
Note the gaps on chrome trim and taillight assemblies too. Gaps left and right should be identical by sight and close to identical by measurement.
You'll find issues when you pick up your car (overspray is almost guaranteed - especially on the windows where it is a safety issue) so tell them to fix the obvious problems, take lots of pictures and post them here. We'll give you more advice before it is time to "really" pick up your car.
You can always take a pack of cards with you to check panel gaps. If the driver's side gap is 3 playing cards thick, then the other side should be the same - and it should be even all the way across the gap.
Note the gaps on chrome trim and taillight assemblies too. Gaps left and right should be identical by sight and close to identical by measurement.
You'll find issues when you pick up your car (overspray is almost guaranteed - especially on the windows where it is a safety issue) so tell them to fix the obvious problems, take lots of pictures and post them here. We'll give you more advice before it is time to "really" pick up your car.
I'm concerned about the paint protection film I have on the hood and fenders. I'm hoping that comes out okay without any damage since they shouldn't have touched that.
I was also rear-ended Late November of last year. Long story short my panels are mismatching. As others have suggested, view your vehicle under various light conditions:
Sunlight / Natural light
Fluorescent lighting, ETC.
Take my car for example.. Panels weren't so obvious in the morning but at night, what an eyesore!
In an effort to "blend" in the new paint they've already painted over all my fenders, so half the car is red-orange, the other half is the original Milano red. Gotta wait until March to get the FULL car resprayed by another shop.
Sunlight / Natural light
Fluorescent lighting, ETC.
Take my car for example.. Panels weren't so obvious in the morning but at night, what an eyesore!
In an effort to "blend" in the new paint they've already painted over all my fenders, so half the car is red-orange, the other half is the original Milano red. Gotta wait until March to get the FULL car resprayed by another shop.
Hope your car comes out perfect when it gets re-painted.
02-11-2014, 08:04 PM
#39
The overspray on the windows and the car may not come from painting your car but the overspray from other cars while your car was in the shop.
Take the baggie - you'll be surprised.
Take the baggie - you'll be surprised.
02-12-2014, 10:13 PM
#40
Almost Finished Update
I went to check out my car in hopes of picking it up on Tuesday, but no dice.
I found a bunch of fish-eyes on the blended left quarter panel, which they did not have to repaint.
No overspray since all paint jobs are done in this painting room
They were going to fix it today, but it turns out that one of the guys burned the paint while polishing
so they are repainting the left quarter panel and I should be able to check it out hopefully tomorrow.
Annoyed that I saw swirl marks on my paint protection film (which is still new), so they will use a liquid wax on it so hopefully that helps some.
I had them take off the trunk trim to examine the paint job underneath to check if they cut corners, and it looks really good. I felt like everyone was holding their breath as it was being taken down and I was examining it.
Bumper and deck lid looks great. No fish eyes. Peel was on point. Just a little uneveness between the gaps of the bumper and taillight by 1/2 of an index card. Not a big deal, but they offered to adjust it.
It was too bright to be able to tell any mis-matched panels. All the pictures I took had a reflection. I'm hoping to drop by after work tomorrow and look at it in florescent light.
I was so stressed about the fish eyes I forgot to double check if the exhausts are the same distance to the floor and check my tint for any scratches. Car interior looks excellent compared to what it looked like when they were working on it.
Saturday is when I'm picking up my car. Hopefully for real this time. They're paying for the extra days of my rental they had to exceed to fix the fish eyes. They'll have my car on a lift when I go in to check out the waffle/clamp marks.
I found a bunch of fish-eyes on the blended left quarter panel, which they did not have to repaint.
No overspray since all paint jobs are done in this painting room
They were going to fix it today, but it turns out that one of the guys burned the paint while polishing
so they are repainting the left quarter panel and I should be able to check it out hopefully tomorrow. Annoyed that I saw swirl marks on my paint protection film (which is still new), so they will use a liquid wax on it so hopefully that helps some.
I had them take off the trunk trim to examine the paint job underneath to check if they cut corners, and it looks really good. I felt like everyone was holding their breath as it was being taken down and I was examining it.
Bumper and deck lid looks great. No fish eyes. Peel was on point. Just a little uneveness between the gaps of the bumper and taillight by 1/2 of an index card. Not a big deal, but they offered to adjust it.
It was too bright to be able to tell any mis-matched panels. All the pictures I took had a reflection. I'm hoping to drop by after work tomorrow and look at it in florescent light.
I was so stressed about the fish eyes I forgot to double check if the exhausts are the same distance to the floor and check my tint for any scratches. Car interior looks excellent compared to what it looked like when they were working on it.
Saturday is when I'm picking up my car. Hopefully for real this time. They're paying for the extra days of my rental they had to exceed to fix the fish eyes. They'll have my car on a lift when I go in to check out the waffle/clamp marks.