TL to Type-S Suspension Differences?? Help!!
TL to Type-S Suspension Differences?? Help!!
Hey..i had my right front suspension on my 03 TL Type-S replaced a couple months ago in the right front due to me hitting a curb quite hard. I'm pretty sure everything was replaced besides the knuckle. My right front wheel now sits towards the passenger compartment with so much postive camber it wears out the side wall slightly...chewing thru tires. I've had it looked at and there is no Sub-Frame damage.
Does anyone out there know if there is any differences in the Type-S Suspension besides the Spring rates..thats the only diff i know of... are the control arms shorter/longer??? any help is appreciated..Thanks
Does anyone out there know if there is any differences in the Type-S Suspension besides the Spring rates..thats the only diff i know of... are the control arms shorter/longer??? any help is appreciated..Thanks
They all use the same parts, nothing between the 2 models would cause that. Something else is bent causing your issues.
A wheel sitting further back in the wheel well is usually a bent lower arm (after the radius rod connection point) a bent subframe (either front member or rear) or the front subframe not adjusted properly (the front bar the radius rods connect to can adjust forward or back to help adjust caster) or a radius rod installed/shimmed wrong. Positive camber is something bent. Either the lower subframe lower control arm mounting point, or the knuckle are the usual suspects.
I would have the shop either re-inspect everything or find another shop.
A wheel sitting further back in the wheel well is usually a bent lower arm (after the radius rod connection point) a bent subframe (either front member or rear) or the front subframe not adjusted properly (the front bar the radius rods connect to can adjust forward or back to help adjust caster) or a radius rod installed/shimmed wrong. Positive camber is something bent. Either the lower subframe lower control arm mounting point, or the knuckle are the usual suspects.
I would have the shop either re-inspect everything or find another shop.
Thank you for the help...fsttyms1
I've looked around at it on my own and at a collision shop. He didn't think the subframe was damaged... no signs of damage or bent anything at the top of the shock mount or where the lower control arm connects to the sub-frame. When you raise the front right in the air the wheel comes back to center i have noticed. I'm guessing its either the Knuckle or that rod in the front you said can be adjusted, the guy at the collision center said to get that checked or replaced, but i know it was. The parts were used but all look to be in good shape. Its bothering me tho because its really not safe to be drivin like this and i need new tires every 2000km
I've looked around at it on my own and at a collision shop. He didn't think the subframe was damaged... no signs of damage or bent anything at the top of the shock mount or where the lower control arm connects to the sub-frame. When you raise the front right in the air the wheel comes back to center i have noticed. I'm guessing its either the Knuckle or that rod in the front you said can be adjusted, the guy at the collision center said to get that checked or replaced, but i know it was. The parts were used but all look to be in good shape. Its bothering me tho because its really not safe to be drivin like this and i need new tires every 2000km
$2000 .....is way too much for replacing the subframe, unless you're getting a brand new one installed at the dealership.
Your best bet is to find a good used one and check some local shops on a labor quote. IMO, the job should be less than $1000 including parts.
Your best bet is to find a good used one and check some local shops on a labor quote. IMO, the job should be less than $1000 including parts.
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I found someone parting out a TL Type-S that wasn't hit. He used it for the tranny. Said he'd give me the SubFrame with steering rack for 220. I'm probaly gonna take a shock and spring as well.
I think the subframe is bent on my car where the lower control arm connects to it causing my problems..the knuckle has been replaced although all the parts used are not in the best shape...the shock has rust on the lower portion of the body
I think the subframe is bent on my car where the lower control arm connects to it causing my problems..the knuckle has been replaced although all the parts used are not in the best shape...the shock has rust on the lower portion of the body
First off, it would be best to have the car's frame and suspension professionally evaluated. They have special equipment to measure frame points and determine if they are within spec. The previous angle of damage in hitting the curb along with the point of impact would help determine where the pressure was exerted inward. Something has to give during the curb impact's force upon your car. Have it re-inspected as Fsttyms1 earlier suggested before putting alot of money into repairs you're unsure of.
If you do find that the subframe is compromised, that's a good deal on used parts. Buy everything from the RHS which may come in handy......if you used questionable parts previously. Getting everything intact..... especially the knuckle, arms and strut assembly may eliminate guesswork. For a few more bucks on the parts at the time, you'll be prepared to restore the RHS to normal.
The front subframe comes in two sections and isn't overly difficult to bolt on. Same with the steering knuckle hub and strut assembly. Find a friend and tackle the job on a weekend.
If you do find that the subframe is compromised, that's a good deal on used parts. Buy everything from the RHS which may come in handy......if you used questionable parts previously. Getting everything intact..... especially the knuckle, arms and strut assembly may eliminate guesswork. For a few more bucks on the parts at the time, you'll be prepared to restore the RHS to normal.
The front subframe comes in two sections and isn't overly difficult to bolt on. Same with the steering knuckle hub and strut assembly. Find a friend and tackle the job on a weekend.
I don't have any tools really and garage is full of junk.. I should have became a mechanic but i'm an idiot. I do have a good friend that has worked at a Honda dealership as a mechanic for half a dozen years or so... They could look it over but its gonna be expensive..im goin to get it looked at today but my RF wheel bearing is not in good shape...shouldn't be driving far
No Insurance was involved...I shouldn't of been driving in the first place to be honest..was going for a "spin" in a deserted area close by around 3 AM when i did this. Just hid the car in a lot nearby and towed it to a shop in the morning. The shop really should of caught the subframe damage tho, they didn't have the proper tools to do alignment either..they at least replaced RF control arms/struts/tie rod ends and such for 1ooo..not goin back to them
" Something else is bent causing your issues ! "
A wheel sitting further back in the wheel well is usually a bent lower arm (after the radius rod connection point) a bent subframe (either front member or rear) or the front subframe not adjusted properly (the front bar the radius rods connect to can adjust forward or back to help adjust caster) or a radius rod installed/shimmed wrong. Positive camber is something bent. Either the lower subframe lower control arm mounting point, or the knuckle are the usual suspects.
I would have the shop either re-inspect everything or find another shop.
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