Sperry

iTrader: (1)

I have the new Michelins on the car, and notice a looser, more roll-ier feel.
Taking the off-ramp at full speed feels a bit less tight. 127K on original struts.

Eibachs w/Moog front and rear did firm up the sway, but looking for a little more firmness.

Since the car is not bottoming out with a chassis-thumping whack, like my Volvo did when it was time to change the struts, how does one decide it is time for struts/shocks?

There was no abnormal tire wear on the old Bridestones; lil'brother put them on 5 years ago, and they ran 60K.

I'm thinking OEM. Which parts besides the strut?

V_Langs_3.2TL

you can salvage a lot of the pieces from the original unit. like the sleeve, the top plate, and most of the washers
any nut or bolt that isn't rusted you can salvage and i'd recommend you replace the nuts so that it doesn't prove a problem in the future.


I had to take my assembly to monroe so the guy could use the heat gun to unscrew a rusted nut I had. it was a PITA

Alex D

Part number 4 & 13 is what i would replace while replacing the struts.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

At 127K on the original struts, it would be prudent to check the inner and outer LCA bushings as well. If they are cracked/worn don't replace them with Moog, they are soft and don't last long for the money, do OEM, IMHO.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-tires-wheels-suspension-54/simple-ball-joint-separation-740248/

I noticed that my front Tokico blues were going bad when I would slowly go over speed bumps and they would bottom. I'm lowered (CLS-6) on Comptech springs/sways. With the extra weight of a S/C'er it was really evident. When I replaced them they had about 60K of use. I got new Blues from Excelerate for a decent price. In addition, I also purchased Acura 08 TL Type-S SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING RUBBER pieces (part # 51631-SEP-A01) on the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/suspension-modification-765843/

I also bought two new Front Bump Stop Rubber; #51722-S84-A01 since the old ones were max compressed. I noticed when I had the strut/spring seperated that the #8; Front Spring Mounting Rubber had deep impressions from the springs, but otherwise they were OK. I would replace them if I did it over again. I also purchased Spring Silencer Tubes #52442-SOX-A01 for the MDX. Similar to the ones on the thread below:

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti..._or_thump.aspx

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=52442-sox-a01

The old rubber ones were deteriorated so there was a little metal to metal contact/clank from the spring coils. Overall, the Front end feels pretty good on the on/off ramps these days.:

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Am I removing the flange nuts, and pulling the strut, flange and all, off the car?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Per the manual:
Damper/Spring Replacement
Removal
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the damper fork.
-1 Remove the damper pinch bolt.
-2 Remove the self-locking nut and flange bolt from the damper fork.
-3 Remove the damper fork from the damper.
3. Remove the damper by removing the five flange nuts from the top of the damper.

You may need to turn the knuckle to facilitate removing the damper/spring assembly from the wheel well.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Is there a DIY for Dummies floating about?

Or maybe I should do the job, and write one for the next guy?

V_Langs_3.2TL

^you might have to haha.

you don't understand how many times I had to read the rear seat removal guide before I figured it all out.

I had to watch a youtube video lol.