Sohcisme

OK here we go another tranny problem. I just got a new tranny and it only has 30k miles on it. It drove perfect everday. Then the other day the vsa and the Cel came on. So i went to autozone and had the sweet P0740 code.TCC.
Then on the way home it started slippin a little and then i couldnt move and the D5 light was blinking.

So i reset the ecu and it drove good again.Then after like 15 min all the lights came on and it was like it was in neutral. So i pulled over and pulled the back up clock fuse again and started it up and it drove home fine. I checked my fluid when i got home and it was dark and smelled a little burnt so i changed it.

After the change it started up and drove around the block and it was shifting good and pulled nice. We drove to the in laws no problems and then on the way back it all happend again so we pulled over and reset it and back to normal again. Today it would mess up like 1 mile after the resets so i turned around and parked it at home. Today i pulled off some solenoids and cleaned the screens but none of them had anything in them at all. I touched the terminals to the battery and every single one would click.

I called acura and its out of warranty and the last one i got was a good will that lasted just 30k. So any suggestions on what i can check for the TCC code? Or the proper way to see if the solenoids are functioning. I cant really afford a trip to the dealer so any suggestions i will look at. I tried finding a helms online so i can see what the TCC solenoid and circuit is on a 00 tl 5at. I just dont think my tranny is broke because every time it starts slipping and jerking i reset the computer and its ok for awhile and drives.

Thanks for the help guys

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

P0740 = time for new/rebuilt tranny.

That's the code I had (when mine failed).

fsttyms1

that code is the P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction. There isnt any thing you can do. You will need to get the trans serviced.

Sohcisme

How come it slips and wont drive but as soon as I reset the computer it drives like nothing happened? Does that make sense to you guys?

fsttyms1

Probably because once that code comes up the computer is throwing the system into some sort of limp mode.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Call Acura Customer Care and plead your case. Be as nice as you possibly can be.

Sohcisme

So if the tranny was bad wouldnt it be bad all the time? So there is no chance its a solenoid? I had to drive home 50 miles and it was messing up so i stopped at checker and bought a switch. I hooked it up to were the Back up clock fuse goes. Then when i was driving whenever it would mess up i would turn of the car flip the switch off and then on and the start it up and drive normal. Then all of a sudden it was neutral again so I had to flip the switch like 10 times to make my drive home and i havent drove the car since.

THis sucks since the tranny only has 30k miles on it and was replaced in mid 08 so its the new revised tranny's. On the replacement paper it doesnt say anything about the pcm but i see some people had those replaced or updated???

P0401

iTrader: (1)

I have read numerous threads talking about resetting the CEL and have tried pulling the fuse like was said (from the search) and I lefty the fuse out for over an hour and it never reset the computer. Is the only way to reset the computer on a 97 CL 3.0 to take the battery cable off? I really want to avoid doing this if possible

P0401

iTrader: (1)

oops! i forgot to mention which fuse I pulled. I pulled the 10 amp fuse for the computer under the dash, is this the correct fuse?

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

On the TL, you want fuse #13 in the passenger-side fuse box, which is a 7.5 amp.

kotomoto

check your paperwork or call the dealer and ask about your warranty those transmission are covered for 3 years/ 36000 miles wichever comes first but remember if u gona take it back the light should be on

Sohcisme

well heres kinda a update to my sadness. i pulled the motor out and seperated the tranny and my torque convertor is all blueish purple and my new fluid was all burnt smelling. My TC is toasted but do you guys think i could resell my tranny or is that done to? it only has 30k miles on it and is a post 2005 tranny with green bolts. i guess im gonna buy a 06 tl or ody tranny and TC and bolt it up to my motor and hopefully it works. I noticed that my battery neg terminal was super corroded i hope that wouldnt have caused all this mayhem. i will cry lol. i read that one person kept getting P0740 and the dealer replaced this ground to tranny cable. Im in a little to far to do that. The motor was way harder to get out compared to B and D series motors. Now the fun begins.

nsnrider

iTrader: (2)

so you're planning of putting an 05 tl tranny in your 2nd gen?

Sohcisme

No I'm putting a 06 tranny. In my 2nd gen. I wanna do a types swap but being poor is no fun.

Sohcisme

Ok i just pulled off my torque converter and when i shake it it makes noise. and i can put my finger in the hole and wiggle the inside around is it supposed to be like that? i dont think so but ive never worked on a automatic before. I think this is why i got P0740. So my question is could i just replace the TC and reuse my tranny that only has 30k miles on. (burnt fluid after one day fluid change) or do i have to replace the tranny and the TC at the same time?

01tl4tl

koto-
the 3/36 is only is if you `partial paid` for the trans on a goodwill-
then you can buy the 3/36
If trans was total warranty- 12/10 applies

the CLOCK fuse is `secret backup power` to the ECU
passenger end of dash- 1 minute removed is fine

when tranny acts up- the 15 minutes it sat let it cool enough to get a bit more down the road,,,standard acura trick

true LIMP mode limits rpm to 2500 when computer is fooled into thinking engine overrev has occured--when trans slips it can fool system

01tl4tl

clean the selenoids
take TQ to a trans repair shop for evaluation and advice
but in general --burnt fluid...not good for trans,,,heat damage to clutch disc, they flake apart- that material clogs screens and gets into TQ,,,,

guessing you changed 3 qts atf? so less than half of the fluid total capacity,, and was blended in with old stuff

Sohcisme

yes i only changed 3 quarts and by the next day it smelt horrible. My tranny shifted fine. i guess im just gonna buy a 06 tranny and put that in with the TC it comes with and if my trans is still good i will just sell it then. i would hate to replace my TC and then put it all together and still not work. Pulling the motor was no fun by myself lol.

Sohcisme

Well after reading the other tranny thread in the performance section im gonna get a 05 odyysey tranny and do the swap here in a few days.

piggylover1985

The torque converter rattling a little is okay. They all do that believe it or not. And yes if you put your finger in the "hole" you can wiggle and turn the hub inside the converter. When the converter over heated, the clutch material inside is burnt, and it will contaminate through out the whole transmission and solenoids. The transmission will need to be overhaul and also the converter will need to be replace.

piggylover1985

The transmission will need to be rebuild and a new torque converter. Most likely if you shut the car off and let it sit for a short time then you can restart and drive it for a short distance until the filter suck up the converter clutch material so much that it clog up so it cannot suck the fluid anymore. And you all know the transmission can only work with hydraulic not air. So it will slip when low on fluid or even neutralize if the pump run dry.

01tl4tl

thats the best explanation I've heard for why it will `fix itself` then give you prob again

That 15 minutes stopped allows clutch particles to float back down and settle away from the TQ innereds...allowing at least partial fluid flow and operation

those concerned about trans, or wanting assurance its doing fine- can send a 4 ounce oil sample to www.blackstone_labs.com or similar place for mass spectro analysis-
it will give a report of fluid condition- particulate matters/little bits of metal and whatnots-- of what type and concentrations..
thats where the clutch disc wear will show

Side Note on why an automatic trans has `clutch disc` a word normally used in manual trans.
Our trans is very similar to motorcycle `wet clutch` design, made from several thin disc with material on them, stacked together--thats what wears out early on our rides- that material
Those materials in low or high amounts will tell you if the trans is solid

also has a comparison to normal and some more info specific to your oil sample.
25 bucks well spent, add 10 to learn how much life left in that fluid

fsttyms1

That is exactly what is happening.